Related
OK, there's been quite a few unanswered questions on bootloader development.. I didn't want to clutter the Make your Own Bootloader thread with hardware stuff. I didn't want to clutter up the UnBrickable Mod thread with Bootloader development setup stuff. UnBrickable mod will be a one-stop shop thread for the Captivate eventually.
Introduction
This thread will get you started with bootloader development speciffic to the captivate, however the same techniques work on all GalaxyS devices with an adjustment to the RX/TX locations
We need to delve into the hardware, remove a resistor, attach a wire, and bring two wires outside of the phone. This is quite a bit more difficult then the typical UART over USB connection which we have used in the past. For bootloader development the UART Output described in this video will not work..
The external UART output with a 619Kohm jig between pins 4 and 5, monitoring 115200 8N1 serial output between pins 2 and 3 will not work because the USB hardware is initialised by the bootloaders. In order to test the bootloaders you are developing, you must go to a lower level.
Note:While the UART output in the video will not work for Bootloader development, itis absolutely unbeatable for Kernel level debug on nearly all Samsung devices.
Getting Started
You will need:
1. UnBrickable modded captivate (or other device)
2. A UART device (Android Acessory Development kit or Arduino Mega or a Bus Pirate or any other UART device)
3. A Soldering Iron
4. Flux
5. Solid core wire
6. A relay (For the wire contained within)
7. A Linux computer (get Ubuntu here and dual boot, or run in a virtual machine)
Instructions
1. Apply the UnBrickable Mod to your Samsung Captivate. See Here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1206216
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2. Next we need to connect a relay wire to the internal JTAG UART points. We cannot use the external UART via USB as we have seen in the past for writing bootloaders because the chip which handles switching for UART has not been initialized yet. We need to go directly to the source off of the processor. You can connect to the internal JTAG UART RX and TX lines here on the JTAG pads:
Using the JTAG header, you can connect to these points using this header: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/AXT612124/?qs=2rFUEsTwVNwSdqVM5XnLHw==
and this Receptical: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/AXT512124/?qs=2rFUEsTwVNy9TGVyeT43Dg==
They can be connected directly, or you can use a board from a guy named "K-WW" on the Hackaday.com forums
Here is a picture of my JTAG connector... This is optional and you will likely want to run wires directly for this project.
Alternately you can get these same points here, next to the processor:
3. Once you have the wires connected to the board, technically you're done and you can now connect up to your Android using your UART Device of choice. I decided to go the extra step and run those small wires to some solid core wire I bent and melted into the phone's case.
The further one is RX and the closer one is TX. Using this low point allows me to close up the device properly and I can still use my SDCard slot.
4. To do some debugging you can connect your Arduino at 8N1 using the same code from the video above...
Code:
void setup() {
// initialize both serial ports:
Serial.begin(115200);
Serial1.begin(115200);
}
void loop() {
// read from port 1, send to port 0:
if (Serial1.available()) {
int inByte = Serial1.read();
Serial.print(inByte, BYTE);
}
// read from port 0, send to port 1:
if (Serial.available()) {
int inByte = Serial.read();
Serial1.print(inByte, BYTE);
}
}
Or connect the Bus Pirate up to the device using the following options in a terminal:
Code:
HiZ>m
1. HiZ
2. 1-WIRE
3. UART
4. I2C
5. SPI
6. 2WIRE
7. 3WIRE
8. LCD
9. DIO
x. exit(without change)
(1)>3
Set serial port speed: (bps)
1. 300
2. 1200
3. 2400
4. 4800
5. 9600
6. 19200
7. 38400
8. 57600
9. 115200
10. BRG raw value
(1)>9
Data bits and parity:
1. 8, NONE *default
2. 8, EVEN
3. 8, ODD
4. 9, NONE
(1)>1
Stop bits:
1. 1 *default
2. 2
(1)>1
Receive polarity:
1. Idle 1 *default
2. Idle 0
(1)>1
Select output type:
1. Open drain (H=Hi-Z, L=GND)
2. Normal (H=3.3V, L=GND)
(1)>2
Ready
UART>
4. Next you need some firmware. There is firmware in the Captivate Development Platform thread, and there is some in the Create Your Own bootloaders thread You can create your own.
5. In order to debug the firmware it has to be uploaded. You can use the SMDK Download tool attached in this post. Uncompress to your desktop
6. To prepare the phone for debug, remove the battery, insert the battery attach USB and run the following program in a new terminal (not the one you are monitoring USB Output)
Upon plugging in the USB, you should see
Code:
�����������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������
Uart negotiation Error
Then you execute this in a new window
Code:
sudo ~/Desktop/dltool/smdk-usbdl -f ~/Desktop/dltool/s5pc110_test/s5pc110_sbl_loader.bin -a D0020000
you will see this in the same window
Code:
SMDK42XX,S3C64XX USB Download Tool
Version 0.20 (c) 2004,2005,2006 Ben Dooks <[email protected]>
S3C64XX Detected!
=> found device: bus 002, dev 011
=> loaded 24576 bytes from /home/adam/Desktop/dltool/s5pc110_test/s5pc110_sbl_loader.bin
=> Downloading 24586 bytes to 0xd0020000
=> Data checksum ffb7
=> usb_bulk_write() returned 24586
[email protected]:~$
And upon upload of the primitive bootloader, you will see this in the UART window
Code:
Welcome to the S5PC110 resurrector by Rebellos!
Calling SGS IBL Stage2, pray so it wont hang...
DONE!
Testing if BL3 area is R/W
DONE!
Please prepare USB dltool with BL3 (SBL)
Starting downloader in...
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
0
7. Unplug the USB cable. As soon as the USB cable is removed all executing commands stop and the device awaits you to push the power on button.
Some notes:
PBL execution automatically occurs at 0xD002000 (this is with a 0x10 signature in front so the actual code begins at 0xD002010)
SBL is in DRAM at 0x40244000
Conclusion
So, there you have it. This is how to set up your Captivate to be a bootloader development kit. You don't have to develop a bootloader to load it up using this method.. You can simply stop at step 1 of this guide, UnBrickable mod, and be able to test results without UART output.
If anyone would like to give me one of the following devices' mainboard I will make a UnBrickable Mod/Development Platform for each device.
Samsung Devices: I9000 S8500, S8530, SGH-897, SGH-i896, SGH-i997, T959, SGH-T849, GT-P1000, GT-i9010, GT-i8350, GT-I917
Google Nexus S, Odroid T,
Apple iPhone4
Any new Samsung WP7
Further reading
Create your own bootloader: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1233273
The Captivate Development Platform: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1206216
Lets save some bricks: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1018862
Samsung Infuse (SGH-i997) Owners:
We've got it much easier when it comes to the JTAG header. As you can see in the picture below, the header is already attached to the PCB, and all we need is the connector board from "K-WW".
The large metallic thing on the left is the SIM card slot. The connector for the display (at the bottom of the picture) might be in the way. If it isn't we'll be able to connect to the JTAG and UART2 ports without doing any soldering or even disconnecting a single cable on the device.
We need someone to donate an Infuse to AdamOutler. He needs to remove the processor from the PCB to be able to find the xOM5 pad. This means destroying the phone, so it doesn't matter what the condition is. If it's bricked with a smashed screen and water damage, it doesn't matter! If you can help us with this, please speak up on this thead: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1221064
You don't NEED the board. The receptical itself with wires attached will attach to the header and you could close up the device with it attached. With the socket breakout board, the device would need to remain open. I would be searching for alternate UART points as well so the JTAG header would remain available.
Like I said.... I need device mainboards... they need not work. I'm not gaining anything directly from this except fruits of firmware development.... alternate OSs and open source bootloaders
Or, try to find 5 OM resistors while phone is being powered up.
3 should be 100.3kOhm resistance and connected to GND
2 should be ~10.1kOhm resistance and connected to VCC PDA (most likely exactly 2.8V, but 1.8V and similiar is also possible option)
These should be in row, or close to itselves. Then all whats left is guessing which one of the 3 is OM5. By some dangerous tests most likely, but with much smaller risk of damaging the board, comparing to complete CPU teardown.
aww dude, that's awesome....will try to do some of it on my cappy ; )
Rebellos said:
Or, try to find 5 OM resistors while phone is being powered up.
3 should be 100.3kOhm resistance and connected to GND
2 should be ~10.1kOhm resistance and connected to VCC PDA (most likely exactly 2.8V, but 1.8V and similiar is also possible option)
These should be in row, or close to itselves. Then all whats left is guessing which one of the 3 is OM5. By some dangerous tests most likely, but with much smaller risk of damaging the board, comparing to complete CPU teardown.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On my device, all resistors are 100.3kohm.
how to send the MB or how to fix my bricked phone GT-i8350
Adam,
I've been staring at this document, the picture of the infuse and the sgh-t959v pictures from ifixit for a while and finally got the gumption to try finding the internal uart. Big thanks for this picture:
AdamOutler said:
You can connect to the internal JTAG UART RX and TX lines here on the JTAG pads:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
SGH-T959V Internal Uart thread.
Thanks again for all you do for the community!
-Bryan
I'm looking to start a thread about turning an a500 into a a501. I've done a teardown of the a500 and it has the capability of potentially being able to support an internal card. It has the space/slot and screw mounts.
Before I start ordering and soldering parts to the circuit board I'd like to get a few facts straight.
1. The firmware (kernel) between the a501 and a500 are the same? I've heard that it is, and that it isn't
2. Drivers- obviously drivers will need to written. No way of getting around that.
3. PCIe Riser extender - As you can see from these pictures, the plastic bracket is missing/not included. You can see on each side there is two holes for mounting the bracket. I'd recommend the extended below, as it will allow me the needed length between the two.
http://www.amazon.com/PCI-Express-Riser-Flexible-Cable/dp/B0054CIL46
The reason I'm picking this is because I can solder this
Here is the empty space:
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"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
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Now here is the space with a pcie wlan card
You can see from the last picture that there is a space issue that needs to be addressed.
I would need to use riser with an extended back end inorder to align up this the screw mounts.
this picture is just of the screw mounts.
I've seen a few threads now about the idea of this , nothing really taking liftoff, so I thought I'd be the first to start.
Also, is there a command for listing hardware/chips in android , using android terminal emulator. Something like lspci (linux command)
**********************************************************
On to pcie 4g/3g cards.
Here is the 4g card I found:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Intel-5150-...135?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43a38d57f7
I'd rather have one with the major cellular provides, but I can't seem to find any. Clear has a basic 200mb (holy hell) for $20. Not bad for 4g coverage.
3g Card
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Inspiron-15...118?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5645ae677e
This one is cheap, and from verizon.
$30 /2gb plan from verizon.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Let me know what you think. If you have anything to add please feel free to let me know
Make a video when you got it running.
Johnny0906 said:
Make a video when you got it running.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Still learning basic programming.I've taken a programming fundamentals and half of programming structures. Teacher was Indian and had us read from a book. If someone wouldbwrite the driver I would jump into it
wow .. really interesting ..
now u know what would be even better ?
to have this module external.
to be able to connect it to the a500.
anyway ..
sure hope u get something..
fxandrei said:
wow .. really interesting ..
now u know what would be even better ?
to have this module external.
to be able to connect it to the a500.
anyway ..
sure hope u get something..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree!! Your average XDA user is open minded when it comes to flashing roms, kernels and different types of software mods but they aren't that open minded to cracking their device open and screwing around with things internally. A usb type of module would be great!! I KNOW you're properly thinking like "WOW, do you want it to clean your house too" BUT T'll put my wallet where my mouth is and will donate 75 dollars if you can get this thing working via usb or provide some sort of brick-proof way of doing this.
I'm really excited to the idea of possibly having 4G on this tablet!!
Good Luck!!
Sent from inside my house using XDA Premium
It looks like its missing one of these..
Mouser is a great source for parts like this. It will involve soldering a connector and possibly writing a driver.
Once you find out the parts requirement, any electronics repair shop can handle it.
http://www.mouser.com/Interconnects/Memory-Card-Connectors/_/N-72bz7/
I can't help anymore then this, I don't own one of these devices. However, kernel=drivers. You've got two issues. Kernel support and Hardware. Once you've got the physical connection done, search for some linux devices which uses similar hardware and grab the kernel modules built for your kernel. If you're lucky, you can just insmod them into the device. If you're not lucky, you'll need to build from source.
Would a kernel dump or source from an A501 do the trick? I don't have one, just throwing around ideas...
A little background: I'm an electronic engineer with some experience of teardown work.
I agree with Adam that you need a socket rather than trying to solder a flexy on.
Do you have any teardown information on the A501, or would someone with an A501 be willing to get photographs. I think the key hardware things to find out are 1) what socket is used for the card and 2) what card is used.
If you get a 3g card with the same chipset on, then wouldn't it be as simple as hacking in A501 firmware for the driver?
I-S said:
A little background: I'm an electronic engineer with some experience of teardown work.
I agree with Adam that you need a socket rather than trying to solder a flexy on.
Do you have any teardown information on the A501, or would someone with an A501 be willing to get photographs. I think the key hardware things to find out are 1) what socket is used for the card and 2) what card is used.
If you get a 3g card with the same chipset on, then wouldn't it be as simple as hacking in A501 firmware for the driver?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That one itself would be the ideal. But that makes sense.
The story doesn't end at installing the card mount, but also needs other components to work. Instead you can tear down a 2 port USB hub, tear down your 3G modem and Stick it in an empty place do some soldering so that the end result should be as follows........
1. The socket which generates USB inside the case, should be fed to the USB hub,
2. One output of the hub should go to the USB dongle we earlier ripped out
3. The other output of the hub should be the cable that extends to the outside USB port.. after all we need this USB also for external USB for attaching keyboards, flash drives etc..
I hope I gave a unique idea here
You need to see a real 3g version to know if other thing missing like transistor on board neer pci card, or usb its more sure
Look for version 3g before investigate pciMe 3g and pciMe connector also sim connector of course
---------- Post added at 11:26 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:20 AM ----------
superhotluv said:
The story doesn't end at installing the card mount, but also needs other components to work. Instead you can tear down a 2 port USB hub, tear down your 3G modem and Stick it in an empty place do some soldering so that the end result should be as follows........
1. The socket which generates USB inside the case, should be fed to the USB hub,
2. One output of the hub should go to the USB dongle we earlier ripped out
3. The other output of the hub should be the cable that extends to the outside USB port.. after all we need this USB also for external USB for attaching keyboards, flash drives etc..
I hope I gave a unique idea here
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes this one what i do it cause you can found mini usb 3g and open it to integrated on board
This was attempted once before and was proven that the boards of the A500 and A501 have differences! Somewhere here in the forum was a thread and there were diagrams and photos of the tho devices! There are many missing components on the A500 that will have to be mounted and it will surely be cheaper (better working) to sell the A500 and get an A501 if you so much desire 3G!
superhotluv said:
The story doesn't end at installing the card mount, but also needs other components to work. Instead you can tear down a 2 port USB hub, tear down your 3G modem and Stick it in an empty place do some soldering so that the end result should be as follows........
1. The socket which generates USB inside the case, should be fed to the USB hub,
2. One output of the hub should go to the USB dongle we earlier ripped out
3. The other output of the hub should be the cable that extends to the outside USB port.. after all we need this USB also for external USB for attaching keyboards, flash drives etc..
I hope I gave a unique idea here
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is nice idea, but you should know that the hub as well as the dongle need power. If the USB output on the device itself is not giving enough power for both of them then it will not work or not work reliably.
Of course the battery will also be drained much faster as all the power saving measures do not affect the hub and the dongle.
And as for the pci connector: maybe you could compare the A500 with the A501 model and see if there are other parts missing. Usually not only the connector is left out but also some other parts on the board itself. So it may be much more soldering and work as you originally though of.
well that's depressing to know. that brscket in the fifth post was what I'm looking for.
can someone post a link to that thread with the pictures if the two teardowns?
BlackICE said:
It is nice idea, but you should know that the hub as well as the dongle need power. If the USB output on the device itself is not giving enough power for both of them then it will not work or not work reliably.
Of course the battery will also be drained much faster as all the power saving measures do not affect the hub and the dongle.
And as for the pci connector: maybe you could compare the A500 with the A501 model and see if there are other parts missing. Usually not only the connector is left out but also some other parts on the board itself. So it may be much more soldering and work as you originally though of.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Goood you understood what I meant with. Definitely the USB out port of the Tablet can handle both. you should buy a two port low power hub and try on
I also did the analysis of power usage, and found that the power used by the hub is really miniscule, and can be used with ease. You must appreciate that the Max power is drawn by the screen rather than the other hardware components, and inevitably the power consumption will increase once you add a 3G module in the tablet, as in A501. So the total power consumption is well within the limits.
I did the practical experiment of leaving the data ON on the tablet, overnight, and I find no extra power usage than without, in the sleep mode.
The only challenge in both the cases is that you have to change the Rom. Either the stock 501 Rom or one of the marvellous custom Roms. I am personally using Virtuous Galaxy 1.0.5 , with an overclock and code for 3G modem, that works seamless.
Once I do this activity I would post a video , or at least a set of pictures.
Sorry i dont know much about these devices but I am not sure what usb has to do with it??? looks like a mini pci e slot to me... (correct me if i am wrong) it cant harm to try soldering the points together.. swap the kernel from the 501 over as long as its got the same build and you have r/w to the system partition and see what happens...
anarchyuk said:
Sorry i dont know much about these devices but I am not sure what usb has to do with it??? looks like a mini pci e slot to me... (correct me if i am wrong) it cant harm to try soldering the points together.. swap the kernel from the 501 over as long as its got the same build and you have r/w to the system partition and see what happens...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you read all posts? I don't think so.
it does not harm to solder a socket there but it will not work as there are for sure other components for that pcie slot missing.
As for the USB solution read the earlier posts as this is a solution, which would work.
Another type of wimax card for clear is the one inside their Rover puck wifi point. no one talks about it or i have seen a picture online but i got one that just works fine, its a half size pci-e mini card so you would have more space to move it around and the antennas come with it, just find one with broken usb port and open it to get the card.
As for driver info i will post with pic of card, it uses the same driver as their clear 4g stick,(grey and black color)
I know it's a bit 'off topic', but.. Since the Iconia has this 'slot', do you think it would be possible with the xoom too??
Check this out: http://guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/5oVhXNLhi3U1AZRy.huge
Step 8 from iFixit --> At first glance, this appears to be a Wi-Fi board, but wait: there are no chips on it! It appears to be just a mini-PCI interconnect board for the antennas. This board is probably just a place holder for when the 4G upgrade becomes available.
Back on topic:
The Iconia A501 has the Qualcomm MDM6600 chip on one of it's boards or it's just a modem? I ask that because by seeing the Xoom 3G teardown we find the said chip. It seems that the chip is missing on the Xoom WiFi according to some here: http://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/45910/Wifi+Only+Xoom+upgradable+to+4G+LTE
So, if you are missing some key parts of the system, I don't think it would be possible to just add a modem to the list of bills to make it 3G/4G unless it's just a software lock?
Uhuhu said:
I know it's a bit 'off topic', but.. Since the Iconia has this 'slot', do you think it would be possible with the xoom too??
Check this out: http://guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/5oVhXNLhi3U1AZRy.huge
Step 8 from iFixit --> At first glance, this appears to be a Wi-Fi board, but wait: there are no chips on it! It appears to be just a mini-PCI interconnect board for the antennas. This board is probably just a place holder for when the 4G upgrade becomes available.
Back on topic:
The Iconia A501 has the Qualcomm MDM6600 chip on one of it's boards or it's just a modem? I ask that because by seeing the Xoom 3G teardown we find the said chip. It seems that the chip is missing on the Xoom WiFi according to some here: http://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/45910/Wifi+Only+Xoom+upgradable+to+4G+LTE
So, if you are missing some key parts of the system, I don't think it would be possible to just add a modem to the list of bills to make it 3G/4G unless it's just a software lock?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe there is the empty space on other tablets with the same chipset too
http://pdadb.net/index.php?m=pdamaster&posted=1&cpu=a2250nvt
So you can (if it works) pimp every moto or acer tab to 4g
The Samsung Anyway Jig
Summary: Some information and pictures of the mysterious Samsung Anyway Jig
Skill Level: Medium
==================================================
Do NOT post questions/requests on how to obtain one, they
will not be answered. (Because I have no idea, since its
Samsung proprietary test equipment!)
Do NOT post links to commercial jigs, unless you also post
the internal schematics, in such a way that it can be easily
constructed at home.
If you already have a working home-made multifunction jig
that you would like to share, please remember:
- a picture of the device
- a picture of the schematics
- a detailed parts list
- the phone/models it applies to
- any other relevant features to make it work
==================================================
Purpose
As custom ROM flashing become more and more popular, the XDA-forums are
continuously bombarded with questions and answers on how to debrick their
devices, often using (what used to be) professional hardware analysis and
debugging equipment, like vendor provided JTAG, JIG and software flashing
tools. These tools used to be only available to certified technical repair and
support centers, closely connected with the various phone vendors. However,
this scenario is rapidly changing as more people are getting higher technical
skills, while using these devices and tools on their phones.
One particular such device, provided by Samsung, has been used for years to
program, customize, repair, debug and unbrick essentially all available
Samsung phones. This blue box is called the "Samsung Anyway Jig", and somehow
Samsung has managed to hide it from public scrutiny and analysis, which have
elevated this device to an almost mythical status. At least for the common
person wishing to repair or modify his phone. Probably because Samsung have
realized that there is a great profit to be made, by having their customer
sending their phones in for repair, rather than letting them in on the simple
secret on how to do this kind of repairs themselves. This behavior have also
been a great joy for the few professional service centers that actually have
access to this device (or similar devices) or who were able to figure out how
it works, making it into a million dollar industry, and obviously without
sharing their knowledge to the public.
Thanks to great community oriented websites and forums like XDA and others,
the public awareness have increased to such a level, that today anyone (with
minimal soldering skills) can build a multifunction and debricking JIG. And
because of the increasingly better standardization among mobile phone
manufacturers, very few modifications are needed for this device to be working
with essentially any modern mobile-phone on the market.
This thread is an attempt to better understand the Samsung Anyway Jig, such
that one can build his/her own Jig, with the information contained herein,
together with many other publicly available documents. It shall be noted that
I do not have access to this device, and I have neither factual data, nor
info, on how this thing actually works. But I do have a very good idea!
Close inspection, of the only 3 (!) images found, as obtained by Google Image
Search (which I am growing increasingly unhappy with), provide a good start
for what is going on in that device.
The Anyway Versions
The Anyway Jig come in slightly different versions. And since I only have access
to 4 pictures, I cannot tell what other versions are available. However, I
noticed the following:
Code:
[SIZE=2]Version PartNumber Variation/Note
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
S100 Doesn't have "EMP" Solution
S101 GH99-36900A Has "EMP" solution. Is used with GT-S7230 (Bada OS)
S102[/SIZE][SIZE=2] GH99-36900B [/SIZE][SIZE=2]1.2A High-Current version for Tabs & Tablets
[/SIZE]
{
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So let me first reproduce the text as seen on the photo of this box:
Code:
[SIZE=2]
| Function
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
No Solution | Mode OFF ON
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1 Agere TC | Boot Low High
2 Hp, Vision, Infineon | SDS O X
3 NXP Sysol | USB O X
4 NXP Swift Broadcom | DBG X O
5 UMTS (Qualcomm) | M-USB Use Not Use
6 EMP | ID type UART USB
7 - | ID-BOOT Boot-On Boot-Off
8 - | - - -
9 - | SDS TRX - Loop
10 - | DBG TRX - Loop
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
| O = Connect, X = Disconnect
[/SIZE]
"The Solution"
The first thing to notice, is that the "Solution" column is completely
independent of the "Function" column. The "Solution" column seem to refer to
the manufacturer of the modem hardware used in the device, usually the
cellular/baseband processor (CP/BP) used by your phone or the modem chip in
routers etc. You can find out what you have by using the methods I have
outlined in the thread: "Phone/Modem Hardware Cross Reference List".
Once you know what you have, you use the 10-pole (BCD?) rotary micro-switch,
as shown in the picture below, to set it to the number corresponding to your
phone modem. (The settings in that picture, corresponds to a Samsung Wave
[GT-S7230] which has a Broadcom BP and thus the rotary-switch is set to #4.)
But according to this document, for attaching a [GT-I9000], you need to set
it to #2 (for Infineon).
It is unclear at this point whether or not this setting is actually changed
much when using various modern phones. It is more likely that this is used for
backward compatibility to older phones that use older connectors, and that new
phones all use the same setting since most of them, now use micro-USB
connectors. Otherwise it simply wouldn't make sense to use a
micro-rotary-switch, especially considering the vast number of modems chips
available today, while the uUSB standard connectors doesn't allow other
signals.
"The Function"
As you have already noticed, next to the rotary switch, there is a 10-pole DIL
switch, that is used to set the Jigs "Function", or behavior. The table above
show the various functional options available, that you can use for the JIG.
Although it is unclear what all these functions actually does, without access
to a box or manual, we are free to make some educated guesses.
Here we make the following (rather wild) guesses as what the various modes does:
Code:
[SIZE=2]DILpos Mode Typical What Description-Guess
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1 Boot 0 Low ??
2 SDS 1 X ??
3 USB 0 O ?Enable/disable USB pass trough: [target]--->[JIG]--->[PC]
4 DBG 0 X ?Enable/disable debug by "port":
5 M-USB 0 Use ?Enable/disable modem USB connection
6 ID type 1 USB ?"Interface Dongle" output-side selection (wheter to use the USB or UART to connect to PC)
7 ID-BOOT 0 Boot-on ?Determines if the device should bootup/start when connected to the JIG.
8 - - - -
9 SDS TRX 0 - ?Enable/disable Loopback on this interface
10 DBG TRX 0 - ?Enable/disable Loopback on this interface
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
where (0==OFF, 1=ON) of the 10-pol DIL switch,
while "O" is connect and "X" disconnect.[/SIZE]
If you have any knowledge of what these does, please let us know. For example,
I like to know what the "SDS" refers to and what it is/was used for?
Then What?
So how interesting is this, for our modern Android based and micro-USB
connected phones, on a scale from 1-10? Probably not much more than 3.
Because most of the device magic happens inside the phone, determined by
various internal multiplexers (MUX), resistance/capacitance detectors, the
Power Management IC (PMIC) and related device drivers.
The most important thing to understand, is that today there are very specific
standards regarding what functionality is offered and expected, given certain
conditions on the micro-USB signals. For example, shorting the D+ and D- USB
signals, tells your phone to start charging, using the VBUS and GND lines.
While a resitive short between the micro-USB lines ID_CON (pin 4) and GND
(pin-5), allows and selects a wide range of functionality from remote control,
debug mode, download mode, audio/video transfer and everything else you may
want to do. These are some of the things we would like to focus on here.
So what is more interesting, is how we can build a JIG that is much more
modern and useful than this old dinosaur, that can provide us with a fully
controlled set of the functions mentioned above. So if you still dream about
getting one, forget it and build your own! Below I will link to a list of DIY
multifunction JIGs. That means I only list serious JIGs that contain a little
more functionality, than just a resistor. Post if you have something worth
showing.
Useful Resources
*Fun with resistors (home/car dock mode + more)
Lets Save Some Bricks
*The Captivate Development Platform mod AKA UnBrickable Mod
Set up a Captivate for Samsung Bootloader Development
The Vibrant Development Platform AKA UnBrickable Mod
USB Jig FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) [4/4/2012] ICS bootloader added
Galaxy S UART JIG & Debugging Connector
Complete USB2.0 Specifications (>13 MB, 30 files, main: 650 pages)
USB Battery Charging Specifications 1.2 (71 pages)
FSA9280A Datasheet (Used in SGS1)
FSA9285 censored Datasheet ()
FSA9485 censored Datasheet ()
FSA3200 Datasheet (Used in SGS2)
---------------------------------------
* Strongly recommended reading
Let me know of any dead links.
Here is an internal photo of the original Anyway S100.
Keywords: jig, samsung, anyway, resistors, multiplex
UPDATE: 2012-10-24
Anyway Software, Drivers and Manuals for:
Anyway D100 (8 port factory jig)
Anyway S100 (1 port factory jig)
Can be found for download in Post#67 ...
Building your own multifunction JIG
The first thing you need to know, when building your own jig, is how various
resistor values determine the behavior of your phone. Below is a list of
resistor values used in the FSA9280A multiplexer chip. These values have been
become a bit of a standard for new Samsung phones and are thus likely to
remain true also for new models and many other devices running AOS. In
post #3 we use these values to build our Resistor Banks.
FSA9280A/88A Resistor Value Functionality
ID_CON Accessory Detection Table (ID_CON resistance to GND):
Code:
[SIZE=2]ADC-reg Min Typ Max Attn Accessory Detected
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
00000 GND [COLOR=Red]GND [/COLOR]GND ! Host Mode / OTG (On-The-Go)
00001 1.9K 2K 2.1K Audio Send/End Button
00010 2.47K 2.604K 2.73K Audio Remote S1 Button
00011 3.05K 3.208K 3.37K Audio Remote S2 Button
00100 3.81K 4.014K 4.21K Audio Remote S3 Button
00101 4.58K 4.82K 5.06K Audio Remote S4 Button
00110 5.73K 6.03K 6.33K Audio Remote S5 Button
00111 7.63K 8.03K 8.43K Audio Remote S6 Button
01000 9.53K 10.03K 10.53K Audio Remote S7 Button
01001 11.43K 12.03K 12.63K Audio Remote S8 Button
01010 13.74K 14.46K 15.18K Audio Remote S9 Button
01011 16.4K 17.26K 18.12K Audio Remote S10 Button
01100 19.48K 20.5K 21.53K Audio Remote S11 Button
01101 22.87K 24.07K 25.27K Audio Remote S12 Button
01110 27.27K 28.7K 30.14K Reserved Accessory #1
01111 32.3K 34K 35.7K Reserved Accessory #2
10000 38.19K 40.2K 42.21K Reserved Accessory #3
10001 47.41K 49.9K 52.4 K Reserved Accessory #4
10010 61.66K 64.9K 68.15K Reserved Accessory #5
10011 76.1K [COLOR=Red]80.7K[/COLOR] 84.1K ! Audio Device Type-2
10100 96.9K [COLOR=Red]102K[/COLOR] 107.1K ! Phone Powered Device
10101 115K 121K 127K TTY Converter
10110 143K 150K 157K UART Cable
10111 190K 200K 210K Type-1 Car Kit Charger*
11000 242K 255K 268K Factory Mode Boot OFF-USB
11001 292K 301K 316K Factory Mode Boot ON-USB
11010 347K [COLOR=Red]365K[/COLOR] 383K ! Audio/Video MHL Cable**
11011 420K 442K 464K Type-2 Car Kit Charger*
11100 507K 523K 549K Factory Mode Boot OFF-UART
11101 588K 619K 650K Factory Mode Boot ON-UART
11110 750K 1000/2K 1050K Audio Device Type-1 with Remote
11111 - Open - Slave Mode / Charger Mode***
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
* USB Car Kit specification: ANSI/CEA-936-A.
** USB MHL (Mobile High definition Link)
! Attention, when these values are used, all pin functions
changes. Having the wrong device connected in this mode, may
short and brick interior phone chips.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
[/SIZE]
There is a good reason why some resistor values are marked as "DO NOT USE", in
the original FSA9280A datasheet. That reason is because these values trigger a
signal path switch (by cascading multiplexers), in such a way that the
original 2-5 USB (cable) signals no longer exists as such. If this occurs,
when you have another type of device connected, than what was intended for
that function, you risk short-circuiting and bricking the relevant internal
chip that is driving that function. The best example is the MHL function. When
MHL is activated, all mUSB pins become part of MHL signal lines. If during you
happen to have a dedicated charger connected instead of a dedicated
mUSB-to-HDMI cable, you will for sure burn out your MHL Transmitter chip (or
possibly any other chip using those signals in that path). Why? Because a
dedicated charger has D+ and D- pins shorted, while its trying to provide +5V
(@1.2A) on pin-1. This at the same time the MHL chip is trying to provide
various output signals on all 5 pins!
Factory Mode Auto-Configuration Table (1% Resistors on ID_CON Pin):
Code:
[SIZE=2]Configuration Boot VBUS DP_CON DM_CON ID_CON BOOT JIG
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
FactoryMode 0 (UART) On Open RxD TxD 619K HIGH LOW --> Triggers "Dock Mode" (Google Car Home)
FactoryMode 0 (UART) Off Open RxD TxD 523K LOW LOW -->
FactoryMode 1 (USB) On Closed DP_Host DM_Host 301K HIGH LOW --> Triggers "Download Mode" (aka "Debrick/Recovery JIG")
FactoryMode 1 (USB) Off Closed DP_Host DM_Host 255K LOW LOW -->
[/SIZE]
In addition to the above resistor values based on just that one chip, and mainly used by Samsung, there is an international standard specification for Battery Charging. In these spec's there are three additional values to consider.
Battery Charging 1.1 Specifications
(May need to be verified...)
Code:
[SIZE=2]DCP: USB Dedicated Charger Port RID_A = 124K
CDP: USB Charging Downstream Port RID_B = 68K
SDP: USB Standard Downstream Port RID_C = 36.5K
where RID = "Resistor Identification"[/SIZE]
List of DIY multifunction JIGs
UberPinguin's Multi-R Jig
Another nice I9100 UART JIG (chinese)
DHylands SGS2 Serial Adapter and Console
Recommended UART Cables
FTDI's "Chipi-X" USB-to-RS232 Cable
Good to Know
Android D2XX FTDI Driver
"Build your own Music dock" [Samsung]
The Dancing MyWay Jig
< here be dragons 2 >
Dude! excellent find. Holy Hack!
you may have seen this thread.. http://forum.gsmhosting.com/vbb/f200/who-used-samsung-anyway-jig-1347210/
that Duc guy may have some info.
someone also links to a user manual where you can see more of that puppy in action.. http://samfirmware.webs.com/I5801_Flash_Tutorial_English.pdf
enjoy. ciao.
^^ Yeah, thanks, but most of those links are dead and the "manual" is just an old standard flashing/service manual. In fact I got the above pictures from some other service manuals. Finally, I don't like having to register to a website, just so that I can see some images.
I do have a AnyWay S100 jig here that i got when samsung support left the place i work. I think i can get a hold of all the cables that they had for it. If i remember correct there was never a micro usb cable tho. But if you want i cna open that puppy up and provide pictures of the inside of the jig. also it could be nice if i could find a way to make a micro usb cable for it...
ParanoidDK said:
But if you want i cna open that puppy up and provide pictures of the inside of the jig.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes! We'd love to see what's inside! Chips, and wiring etc!
Do you happen to have any windows software drivers for the device? (Why? Because of this.)
Making a micro USB hack would be easy...if you have the right tools or a micro-USB breakout PCB. Just remember that most micro-USB to USB cables do not have the USB_ID line in the cable, but is immediately shorted inside micro-connector. You could get a micro-to-mini-USB cable, that should also include the USB_ID (aka ID_CON) line, but these are hard to find as they are not conforming to common USB cable standards.
Well the usb cable should be the least thing... And if i make one i might just as well make one from start with a micro usb plug, cable and the printer plug in the other end... I think i might be able to use the cable for one of the older samsung phones i have for the box as start point...
i have a print i need to make and then i will open up the box and start to take some pics with my SGS3 just so you can get a preview of the inside...
An anonymous and friendly contributor have come forward with a little bit more information, although not very useful.
1) The S102 model is modified to allow a higher current as used in Tablets.
2) The manual "Function" settings can now be made in software, and is no longer used. (Well then, how is it set in software?)
3) The "Solution" for Galaxy models should be set to "NXP Swift". (But this contradicts the Service Manual for the GT-I9100 and others! But is probably explained by the different BP's used in those devices.)
We need internal pictures! (or the schematics)
Here is some pictures of the internals from the S100 i have here. Proberly not the best ones but the best i can take with my cam... If i have to take better ones i will have to get my friend involved with his DSLR.
I had to upload them to my server as they was to large to upload to xda...
Internals Pictures of the AnyWay S100 Jig
-----EDIT----
I am going to see if i can find the last cables and the psu for the jig today in the bin... As it is now without the PSU windows dont even see the device...
ParanoidDK said:
Here is some pictures of the internals from the S100 i have here. Proberly not the best ones but the best i can take with my cam... If i have to take better ones i will have to get my friend involved with his DSLR.
I had to upload them to my server as they was to large to upload to xda...
Internals Pictures of the AnyWay S100 Jig
-----EDIT----
I am going to see if i can find the last cables and the psu for the jig today in the bin... As it is now without the PSU windows dont even see the device...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hi thanks to give all i need full box so can you help me ?
[email protected] said:
hi thanks to give all i need full box so can you help me ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am not going to part with the anyway jig i got so no... You will have to keep looking on ebay... I dont mind opening it up to let the world see the inside but am not going to sell it.
That's a whole lot of relays in that box.
I don't know if anyone has stated which connector is for what,
but I'd guess that the 25 pin connector goes to a model-specific resistor assembly.
Too much of the relay wiring goes out there.
The big "printer port" is the port for the phone connections that i know... i have a cable for a older samsung phone with the box... and that might be a problem because it might use diffrent pins for diffrent phone models... so without seeing both ends of the micro usb cable naked it will be hard to make a cable...
If you guys need more pics let me know... i can also strip that samsung cable i allready got...
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda premium
ParanoidDK said:
Here is some pictures of the internals from the S100 i have here... I am going to see if i can find the last cables and the psu for the jig today in the bin... As it is now without the PSU windows dont even see the device...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow! This thing was (any?) way more complicated inside than what I could have imagined! Containing several relays, a PIC16F876A, and who knows what all those other chips are doing.
This is kind of bad news, as then it will be nearly impossible to build anything like it. At least without the firmware for the PIC and the drivers used. However, I believe that most of its functionality is for switching purposes in order to be able to use it on a broad spectrum of devices. So if we can limit ourselves to the most recent smart phones with micro-USB connectors, much of the internal electronic can be ignored.
So don't worry about the PSU (Power Supply Unit?). It would be much more useful if you have the drivers...
This is how it looks:
<I seem to have some upload problems!! >
(Not sure if its an XDA issue or not...)
EDIT: Now it worked...3 days later!
Could you take apart the shell on the 25 pin adapter cable for the old cell phone model?
I'll bet that there are some precision resistors in there.
Thanks.
I dont have the drivers... and i do worry about the psu because without that the unit dont work....
I will open the cable and upload some pictures of that today....
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda premium
no comment
You sure have some problems with that image E:V:A
But here it is (I hope):
Did just open the cable i got ant it is a S20 cable.
http://www.samsung.com/us/mobile/cell-phones-accessories/APCBS10UBEBSTD
There is no resistors it is just a 25 pins to S20 cable... Will upload some pics here in a bit... And now i really have to check to see if there are more cables just to check the 25 pins end..
---EDIT----
Link to pictures of the naked cable: http://blog.moonman.dk/files/Anyway_S20_cable.zip
Are you sure that this jig does anything for current cell phones?
It seems to me that this device has nothing to do with the semi-standard today
of 5 pin micro USB connectors with resistance coding on the 5th ID pin.
So I'm thinking I'm going to tether via wifi my phone's GPS with the NST. Has anyone done this? Is there a good offline map pack for eink devices?
Let me know your thoughts...
EDIT:
So I did it last weekend and it works great. Downloaded some Topos from Rmaps after rooting and turning on mock locations via SQLite on the NST. Installed GPS Tether on phone and NST. Turned on phone hotspot, then tethered the NST to the phone and blamo! GPS. I already have a solar panel I wired up and will attach to the backpack to charge both the NST and the external battery for the phone.
Meet Earl was my inspiration.
I have not tried that, but I did just order an Earl for the same purpose. Maybe you could use whatever they use for maps.
I cant post links, but google meetearl.
One of the problems with USB is that it is a bit power intensive.
Also, running things off USB you need to convert 3.3 V to 5 V to 3.3 V
If I were trying to turn the Nook into a hiking map I would...
Get a GPS module that runs off 3.3V, maybe this: http://www.adafruit.com/products/790
Connect it directly into the internal 3.3 V serial port on the Nook.
I don't know what you'd have to do for the antenna.
You'd probably need an external antenna, but external to the case or not is the question.
ace7196 said:
So I'm thinking I'm going to tether via wifi my phone's GPS with the NST. Has anyone done this? Is there a good offline map pack for eink devices?
Let me know your thoughts...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Feeding GPS data from one device to another - there is no much need for such an app, shouldn't be a problem to write one using Mock Locations provider.
I was wondering, what uses more power: external USB GPS or WiFi tethering?
iGo Primo claims it works with 1.6 and up
Sygic: GPS Navigation & Maps - 2.0.1
TomTom: 2.2 and up
Update
See OP.
ace7196 said:
I already have a solar panel I wired up and will attach to the backpack to charge both the NST and the external battery for the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds really cool!
Could you post a picture of you setup, please?
BTW: If you are Eco Friendly person, check this out Bicycle Generator Kit with 5 LED headlight and 3 LED red flashing taillight and Charger Port for MP3 and Mobile Devices
Or if you prefer DIY (like RenateNST) - this is for you USB-Bike-Generator
BTW2: Did you try Google Maps too?
Look at tophatsoaring.wikispaces.com/Top+Hat+on+Nook+Simple+Touch
It's using external gps on NST
Renate NST said:
One of the problems with USB is that it is a bit power intensive.
Also, running things off USB you need to convert 3.3 V to 5 V to 3.3 V
If I were trying to turn the Nook into a hiking map I would...
Get a USB module that runs off 3.3V, maybe this:
Connect it directly into the internal 3.3 V serial port on the Nook.
I don't know what you'd have to do for the antenna.
You'd probably need an external antenna, but external to the case or not is the question.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey Renate NST, do you have any more detail about how you'd go about this? I bought a Nook ST last week for exactly this purpose (though I also want to install a solar panel on the back of it and weatherproof the whole system), and actually have one of those GPS chips you listed (on a breakout board though) from an old project with an RPi.
So in terms of the next steps... (apologies for the dumb questions, this is the first time I've properly played with something not intended to be played with)
- How do I find the serial port? I've spent about ten minutes looking at the board and haven't found it.
- How do I then get a maps program (I'm using rmaps at present) to take the serial input as GPS input? Will I need to parse the NMEA?
Thanks in advance,
Jake
The UART for /dev/ttyS1 is detailed here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1702734
I haven't looked too closely into serial NMEA-0183 working on the Android.
I have gotten the USB version to ouput via a cat.
It seems that most folks who do that just read and parse it themselves then use the Android "mock location" interface.
The "mock location" is so that you can playback a trip from Boston to San Francisco without driving anywhere.
It seems that it would be cleaner to not go through the "mock location" interface.
Now you've used this for a while how long does the WiFi last on your phone and how long on the Nook?
Even if not saving battery at least we can read the screen this way
GPS on USB
I'm using the following:
- NST glow
- OTG cable (micro USB male, regular USB female)
- reduction (regular USB male, mini USB male (and an extra USB for external power, but haven't tried that so far))
- GPS unit (QStarz BT-Q1000XT)
- USB mode utility app
- UsbGps4Droid app
Works perfectly. I haven't noticed any substantial power drain, but I switch the GPS off after a few minutes every time...
I use it mostly with Osmand, but it seems to work with any other app.
ProtD said:
I'm using the following:
- NST glow
- OTG cable (micro USB male, regular USB female)
- reduction (regular USB male, mini USB male (and an extra USB for external power, but haven't tried that so far))
- GPS unit (QStarz BT-Q1000XT)
- USB mode utility app
- UsbGps4Droid app
Works perfectly. I haven't noticed any substantial power drain, but I switch the GPS off after a few minutes every time...
I use it mostly with Osmand, but it seems to work with any other app.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tested almost that exact setup (QStarz 818X) but the extra cables were a ***** so I hacked apart my nook and got this:
(currently being refined further)
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
I can't tell at all what you are doing.
Is that small thing a Bluetooth serial module? What model?
Is it going directly into a Nook hardware serial port or the USB?
Renate NST said:
I can't tell at all what you are doing.
Is that small thing a Bluetooth serial module? What model?
Is it going directly into a Nook hardware serial port or the USB?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its a really small GPS module (SparkFun) going directly into the Nook UART. Currently looking to drop the battery voltage to 3.3 for V_BAT of the GPS Here is the current state:
Black - GND
Orange - VCC 3.3 (goes off with screen saver)
Blue - RX
Green - TX
The switch is for putting GPS to sleep mode.
Yup, direct to the UART is the way to go.
I guess the ceramic antenna is too big to fit inside the Nook between the aluminum plate and the top case?
I think that I'd cut a rectangle out of the Nook top case at the top for clearance,
run the wires inside the Nook and glue a tiny box on top.
I haven't checked that connector to see if there were any UART control lines or GPIO on it.
That would be the nice way to control the power mode of the GPS.
Just a quick one to say watch out on Sygic. It's a great and slick program and downloading new maps is easy. But it's made plenty of my phones run hot; it's CPU intensive probably and a battery drainer. Q: What's a battery efficient mapping app?
RMaps: Very probably light. I don't think it's very slick.
There's an app for OS maps in the UK offline: You can then preload the >8gb of maps to get full UK, very nice maps. Probably the best option. I think you have to pay for the Android app though... don't know how that would work... don't know if it's supported on Nook
iGO, TomTom: Also sounding CPU intensive. It seems vector and nav capabilities are what make these things battery draining. Stick to raster maps? (images rather than route calculable vectors)
It's been a long while but no news on this for ages.
The earl is still not out. It's also expensive.
This hack is pretty cool. The USB option is the easiest... but we can't have a USB cable hanging out the bottom, ready to rip off the mainboard rendering the whole thing useless.
So I prefer the option of soldering directly onto that UART with the GPS module.
yegoshin, what did you use to get the voltage right?
There's lots of info in the comments here:
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11571
But while I understand a lot of this I'm not used to this level of project. If someone has already figured it out though with that voltage adapter, I can give that a go.
jago25_98 said:
yegoshin, what did you use to get the voltage right?
There's lots of info in the comments here:
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11571
But while I understand a lot of this I'm not used to this level of project. If someone has already figured it out though with that voltage adapter, I can give that a go.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So you can use the direct battery voltage from the nook for the VCC, you can also use pin 1 off U2713 (however I have recently run into what seems a lack of current through that - GPS doesn't lock until I plug in a USB power really weird, no problems off the Battery though pink wire is the VCC)
Now for the V_BAT I was able to wire up this board to the nook battery https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10995 and pull 1.8Volts off that. However that board has ALOT of excess parts (its meant to be used with this GPS, which I think may work even better for the nook since the on-off can be done via that breakout board) I may look into getting a custom board stuffed.
If you happen to be near Bay Area CA, I can help you out.
Woah, I didn't know about this tiny 1.8V logic GP-2106: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10890
You don't need any level conversion, ttyS0 (UART1) is all 1.8V logic.
(You'd need to make sure that you aren't using ttyS0 for the console.)
You can grab one of the JTAG signals (also 1.8V) for the on/off control.
See the pinout here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=49931617#post49931617
You could 3D print a tiny housing and mount it on top of the bezel right over the "nook" at the top.
Something to look out for is that 5 second, 50 mA anomaly that we haven't chased down yet.
The power consumption will kill you.
Latest news?
Hi guys,
Just come back off a hiking holiday, and have been looking into using the NST as a low power, eink gps for UK OS maps etc.
Your prototype here looks spot on!
How far did you get with this - any guides etc?
Also, if someone felt like making these, 3d printing a new, deeper back case for all the extra electronics - i'm sure you'd have a nice lot of customers !
(NB looked at your pics of soldering direct onto the serial connectors internally... Woah! Bit beyond my soldering skills there!)
Good luck, would love to hear updates...
I'm planning on buying a Joying Android unit. I currently have a front-facing dash cam that has an AV port out that supports RCA in. I also have a reverse cam with RCA jacks. The Joying head unit only has 1x RCA Video-IN port ...is there anyway I can make it work so that both the reverse cam and front-facing dash cam will work with the unit?
For reference, here is the back of the Joying unit...
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Dash cam on an Android unit needs to be usb I think
Verstuurd vanaf mijn ZUK Z2121 met Tapatalk
Dashcam does need to be USB indeed. What you can try is to use an "RCA to USB" converter cable. They are not that expensive. Search on Amazon, Aliexpress, eBay, etc.
Note though that AV/RCA outputs are low-res up to max 720x480 or 720x576. Any modern USB Dash cam has minimally 1280X720 or 1920x1080.
Also: You need to have a dash cam that does the recording/storage itself. USB saturarion on USB-2 happens quite often, although these low resolutions of 720x480/576 might have a way lower bandwidth usage.
Next to that: USB-2 is "half-duplex". Only one signal can travel the line, be it back or forth (like a walky-talky: "blahblahblah, over"). These units have only one USB-hub. PCs often have 2 or 3 usb hubs. In that case, if you evenly distribute your devices, the half-duplex occurs per hub, or only one hub has the saturation. Any other device using USB will break your video signal and thereby a correct video recording if you want to do that on the unit instead of on the dashcam itself.
It's a bit of a pity that the old carjoying forum no longer exists. There was a user who had 4(!) cams connected and who had nicely explained how he did that. (but of course: who needs 4 cams?).
Next to that it contained a wealth of info about dash cams and other solutions, like using a raspberry-pi 3 or pi-zero with Pi cams in combination with an apk on the unit. I have used that also for quite some time and that certainly allows for multiple high-res, high-bandwidth dash cams (pi cams) connected.
surfer63 said:
Dashcam does need to be USB indeed. What you can try is to use an "RCA to USB" converter cable. They are not that expensive. Search on Amazon, Aliexpress, eBay, etc.
Note though that AV/RCA outputs are low-res up to max 720x480 or 720x576. Any modern USB Dash cam has minimally 1280X720 or 1920x1080.
Also: You need to have a dash cam that does the recording/storage itself. USB saturarion on USB-2 happens quite often, although these low resolutions of 720x480/576 might have a way lower bandwidth usage.
Next to that: USB-2 is "half-duplex". Only one signal can travel the line, be it back or forth (like a walky-talky: "blahblahblah, over"). These units have only one USB-hub. PCs often have 2 or 3 usb hubs. In that case, if you evenly distribute your devices, the half-duplex occurs per hub, or only one hub has the saturation. Any other device using USB will break your video signal and thereby a correct video recording if you want to do that on the unit instead of on the dashcam itself.
It's a bit of a pity that the old carjoying forum no longer exists. There was a user who had 4(!) cams connected and who had nicely explained how he did that. (but of course: who needs 4 cams?).
Next to that it contained a wealth of info about dash cams and other solutions, like using a raspberry-pi 3 or pi-zero with Pi cams in combination with an apk on the unit. I have used that also for quite some time and that certainly allows for multiple high-res, high-bandwidth dash cams (pi cams) connected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What are the chances you know what the carjoying forum site was called? It might have been archived. I would LOVE to know how that guy used PI's for dashcams with an APK.
kouklo said:
What are the chances you know what the carjoying forum site was called? It might have been archived. I would LOVE to know how that guy used PI's for dashcams with an APK.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have already searched via the wayback machine, but it is really limited. You can find a few "broken" topics but not one complete thread.
the site was forum.carjoying.com.
This a a broken topic about dashcams from the wayback archive: https://web.archive.org/web/20170719201932/http://forum.carjoying.com/thread-1085-lastpost.html
surfer63 said:
Dashcam does need to be USB indeed. What you can try is to use an "RCA to USB" converter cable. They are not that expensive. Search on Amazon, Aliexpress, eBay, etc.
Note though that AV/RCA outputs are low-res up to max 720x480 or 720x576. Any modern USB Dash cam has minimally 1280X720 or 1920x1080.
Also: You need to have a dash cam that does the recording/storage itself. USB saturarion on USB-2 happens quite often, although these low resolutions of 720x480/576 might have a way lower bandwidth usage.
Next to that: USB-2 is "half-duplex". Only one signal can travel the line, be it back or forth (like a walky-talky: "blahblahblah, over"). These units have only one USB-hub. PCs often have 2 or 3 usb hubs. In that case, if you evenly distribute your devices, the half-duplex occurs per hub, or only one hub has the saturation. Any other device using USB will break your video signal and thereby a correct video recording if you want to do that on the unit instead of on the dashcam itself.
It's a bit of a pity that the old carjoying forum no longer exists. There was a user who had 4(!) cams connected and who had nicely explained how he did that. (but of course: who needs 4 cams?).
Next to that it contained a wealth of info about dash cams and other solutions, like using a raspberry-pi 3 or pi-zero with Pi cams in combination with an apk on the unit. I have used that also for quite some time and that certainly allows for multiple high-res, high-bandwidth dash cams (pi cams) connected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Excellent info, thanks so much!
Quick question regarding the USB-hub comment. If I use an external USB-hub to enable two USB-inputs (the dash cam via usb-RCA and the TPMS System) from a single USB plug, will they both work without interference or will I have problems too?
aerobahn said:
Excellent info, thanks so much!
Quick question regarding the USB-hub comment. If I use an external USB-hub to enable two USB-inputs (the dash cam via usb-RCA and the TPMS System) from a single USB plug, will they both work without interference or will I have problems too?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It will have the same half-duplex problem, even if you connect 10 hubs. All hubs need to go through the single hub in the unit.
We need to wait for USB-3. It is full-duplex and so much faster. But in that case the CPU might become the bottle-neck in encoding the video.
You weren't joking about broken. LOL
I have been doing some research and found a few projects that use the PI for a dashcam or even some kind of Black Box. The issue is viewing the feed on an Android device/HU.
I'll do more research and see what I can find.