I tried to charge my Tilt today using the Car Charger that I got with it from AT&T but it isn't working. I accidently jammed my stylus into the mini usb port a few weeks ago andthen but it didn't look any different and nothing seemed to break off. It will still charge with my wall charger at home and will still sync with my computer. I know that the car charger is supposed to charge my phone faster but it should still use the same connections as my regular one..right? Could it be the ROM possibly? I can't test this right now because I am at work and my phone won't sync with my work computer.
Sorry if this is in the wrong forum please move if it is.
Check the cigarette plug in your car, sometimes it can be full with dirt on the connector in the car.
I had the same problem today and cleaned it out just with a screwdriver so that its connecting now.
Well the light on the charger is lit so I assume there is power going to it and it works with my mom's razr charger. The USB port actually looks dirty but I wouldnt know how to clean it out lol
bartimeus said:
I tried to charge my Tilt today using the Car Charger that I got with it from AT&T but it isn't working. I accidently jammed my stylus into the mini usb port a few weeks ago andthen but it didn't look any different and nothing seemed to break off. It will still charge with my wall charger at home and will still sync with my computer. I know that the car charger is supposed to charge my phone faster but it should still use the same connections as my regular one..right? Could it be the ROM possibly? I can't test this right now because I am at work and my phone won't sync with my work computer.
Sorry if this is in the wrong forum please move if it is.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had issues with my Tilt not charging in the car, which turned out to be a weird issue with CardExport. I had the CardExport tray icon set to autostart, and my phone would not charge in the car - only when connected to a PC. Disabling the CardExport tray icon and doing a soft reset fixed it. Now if I need to use CardExport I just start it manually.
HTH
Check your mini-usb connector on the phone, if the bit in the middle doesnt seem level it won't charge at full speed
bartimeus - Did you ever find a solution to this? I have been using Igo on my phone in the car heavily over the past few days for long trips. I have 3 car chargers and all wont charge the phone (resulting in no loss of satnav :-S).
Oddly, my phone shows that it is charging - sometimes only for a few minutes, sometimes continuosly - but it doesn't.
I accidentally shoved my stylus in the USB port too about 10 months ago and i wonder if this is a result of that. Odd it charges from a PC by usb and mains though - but not via a car charger.
I found that any of the Cheap ass Chargers I used won't charge it. I'm waiting for my HTC made one to arrive so I can find out if there is an issue.
I read on a thread a while back about pin 4 and pin 5 need to be soldered together for the Kaiser to want to charge.
pharaohamps said:
I had issues with my Tilt not charging in the car, which turned out to be a weird issue with CardExport. I had the CardExport tray icon set to autostart, and my phone would not charge in the car - only when connected to a PC. Disabling the CardExport tray icon and doing a soft reset fixed it. Now if I need to use CardExport I just start it manually.
HTH
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have this problem but have never used cardexport... any known fixes?
JimmyMcGee said:
I found that any of the Cheap ass Chargers I used won't charge it. I'm waiting for my HTC made one to arrive so I can find out if there is an issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My car chargers are 'cheap ass' Ebay purchases. Please let me know how the HTC charger gets on.
Not sure if this is the case for Tytn II, my Asus P525 need to have the middle 2 pins (D+ and D-) short in order to charge.
jackleung said:
Not sure if this is the case for Tytn II, my Asus P525 need to have the middle 2 pins (D+ and D-) short in order to charge.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I vaguely remember reading that some people shorted Pins 4 and 5 and it worked.
JimmyMcGee said:
I vaguely remember reading that some people shorted Pins 4 and 5 and it worked.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know how you come up w/ Pin5 as USB has only 4 pins (5+, Ground, D+, D-). Read the spec here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB
I will do the mod on one of my adapter tonight and verify it
jackleung said:
I don't know how you come up w/ Pin5 as USB has only 4 pins (5+, Ground, D+, D-). Read the spec here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB
I will do the mod on one of my adapter tonight and verify it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Look for Mini-B It has Five Connections. That's what I'm referring too.
JimmyMcGee said:
Look for Mini-B It has Five Connections. That's what I'm referring too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Then it would be pin 2 and pin3 for D+ and D-.
Ok, let me share what I found so far and the result turns out to be very surprising. I have 3 different cigarette to usb adapter (yes, I got lot of gadgets to feed in my car. ). And the test are done w/ maximum backlight and A2DP music to my JVC BT-1.
1. Cheapo w/o current rating label, (I guess it's about ~500ma). D+ and D- shorted
2. Another cheapo rated w/ 650ma. D+ and D- NOT shorted
3. An expensive one w/ rated at 2A (yes, this is the only one w/ enough juice for my power hungry Dell Axim x51v). D+ and D- NOT shorted.
result: 1 = work, 2 = not work, 3 = not work.
Then I shorted both 2 and 3
result: 1 = work, 2 = not work, 3 = not work.
It seem shorten D+ and D- does not change the result. Just about to conclude I didn't prove anything and about to give up, and I try a different USB to mini-USB cable. It surprise me all of them are working!!!
From the pic below, the charging icon of battery status mean the cable is connected. Current w/ a plus sign mean the Tilt is being charge
Cable 1:
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Cable2:
Therefore, I conclude:
1. it turns out my AT&T Tilt are very picky about the USB cable quality.
2. For cigar to USB adapter, maximum support current and the quality may not very important.
3. We may or we may not need to shorten D+ and D- since I don't want to spend time to unshort them.
p.s. I still don't understand why cable 1 gives bigger charge on adapter 1 but refuse to charge on the rest, while cable 2 give consistent charge on all adapter. I re-test several times but gives the same result.
Short Pin 5 (+5V) and Pin 4 (unused). And tell me what happens.
JimmyMcGee said:
Short Pin 5 (+5V) and Pin 4 (unused). And tell me what happens.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The mini-usb plug is too tiny for me to work on it. I will pass it to whoever has the tool to test it.
Right, as I posted earlier, I have 3 cheap car chargers - 1 with integral cable and 2 that are just the adapter and require a separate cable. None charge my phone. A usb cable that works from my pc fails to charge in the car.
So, I bought a genuine HTC car charger. I fully expected this to work fine, but it doesn't. It does exactly the same as the cheapo chargers - My phone shows the amber charging light for a minute or two, then it goes out. No charging takes place at all. The battery icon shows charging all the time the cable is plugged in though.
My ciggarette socket is fine and supplies enough current to make the ciggarette lighter thingy glow hot.
/baffled.
chaps said:
Right, as I posted earlier, I have 3 cheap car chargers - 1 with integral cable and 2 that are just the adapter and require a separate cable. None charge my phone. A usb cable that works from my pc fails to charge in the car.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have other USB cable to try?
Hey all, No i have not yet found a solution for this problem. I believe I have a genuine HTC charger or at least an AT&T one because i got it witha bundle with my phone from AT&T. I am looking at the USB plug and it seems to be bent down a bit on the right side as you are looking at it.
I think i might talk to my girlfriends cousin who works for AT&T and see if he can be awesome and replace it for me without me having to put the AT&T crap back on there for an actual warranty return.
still charges at home wall plug in and syncs with my computer just fine
This is how i get around this happens, though it sucks if you're using it as a navigation device. When it stops chagrining through the car adapter, I leave the cable plugged into teh phone and the cigarette/power adapter and do a soft reset. This seems to clear it up somehow and it starts charging.
Related
Hello
I had gone out to get a car charger for the XDA Exec. i went to the t-mobile shop and they gave me a car charger for the motorola V3 and said it would work.
i have not tried it, but my brother who has an imate jasjar tried it and it does not seem to work with his device.
both the XDA & V3 use a USB cable from the PC to charge them up, that made me think they could use the same car charger, what do you guys think?
u need to think about the voltage of the charger u have, you should never use a charger that was never designed for your device.
even if it is fractionally dfferent, this could cause anything from failure of your device to fire, etc. you should have got a charger from an o2 shop, I got one and it was only 15 quid. works perfectly and was designed for universal devices.
The main problem here is the current the charger will deliver.
I have 1 exec that will only just charge from an 850 m amp charger the 2nd exec wont charge at all. You really need a charger that will deliver 5v 1 amp to charge effectively.
I stuggled to find such a charger but the active holder from Brodit does the job superbley. i got mine from
www.gpsforless.co.uk
Regards
The Pilgrim
thanks for the replies
so it is the current specifications which is the problem!!
i geuss the voltage spec is nto a problem, since the USB outlet should guarantee volts between 4.75 and 5.25, correct?
i guess the comp based charging works, cause the computer can provided as many amps as required, correct?
but why would one xda charge up and the other wont.
resistor tolerances ??
what about the charging algorithm , once the battery charges up, what prevents the charger to push more juice into the xda exec. likewise with the ccmputerbasec charager?
Can i use a car charger meant for the t-mobile MDA Pro with the O2 XDA EXEC or with the i-mate jasjar, or are the specifications different?
the_pilgrim said:
The main problem here is the current the charger will deliver.
I have 1 exec that will only just charge from an 850 m amp charger the 2nd exec wont charge at all. You really need a charger that will deliver 5v 1 amp to charge effectively.
I stuggled to find such a charger but the active holder from Brodit does the job superbley. i got mine from
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's strange, true computer USB ports only deliver 500 mA and it appears to charge just fine, if very slowly, on one of those. Razr chargers are not entirely the same as regular USB chargers, the Razr uses the extra USB pin (mini has 5, regular has 4) to tell it what kind of device is connected, cradle, computer, etc. It's possible that the Uni chokes on that.
As an experiment, I hooked a 400 mA (specced) USB adapter to my MDA Pro, the charge light comes on. It's at 70% battery at 1:00 am local time. I'll check again a bit later to see if it actually charged.
[Edit: It's 22 minutes or so later and I've moved to 76%, while the PDA was otherwise turned off. That confirms that it's very, very slow. Also, the adapter was pretty warm, it may have been running over its rating.]
I'm not sure how much this experiment is worth though, I've got a near duplicate of this adapter with a different colour that's specced at 1000 mA (and in fact they're now selling the same outer plastic with a 2000 mA rating). If the insides are as similar as the outside, the other one's just underrated, but it's possible that the insides are actually different.
Re:Voltage, as far as I know, anything that uses a USB charger is 5V so should be intercompatible. This statement does not come with any express or implied warranty of fitness and I will not be replacing any devices you fry.
Still, though, most devices tend to run on "be liberal in what you accept" -- my Nokias charge on anything from at least 3 to 8 volts. I wouldn't be surprised if the uni is the same, but I won't be testing that out anytime soon. At least not without reloading the original rom first in case I'd need to warranty it.
xda_guy said:
what about the charging algorithm , once the battery charges up, what prevents the charger to push more juice into the xda exec. likewise with the ccmputerbasec charager?
Can i use a car charger meant for the t-mobile MDA Pro with the O2 XDA EXEC or with the i-mate jasjar, or are the specifications different?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All the universals are identical to a much closer look than simply charging. The only thing that's different there is the colour, a charger colour coordinated with an MDA Pro isn't with a jasjar.
The name 'charger' is really a misnomer. What 'chargers' actually do is provide a (semi-[1])constant voltage at a certain maximum number of amps, ie, they're *power supplies*. The actual charger which takjes care of the battery charging algorythm is integrated inside the Uni. All the 'charger' needs to do is make electricity of the kind that the *actual* charging chip inside is designed to run on.
[1] Most chargers, even original equipment let alone aftermarket, are highly crappily regulated.
Get one from a local orange store - 10 quid for a spv500 one, works great.
actually i tried to charge a second razr using my comp and it woudl not charge up? does this mean the current spec varies from device to device, even within the same device
if one messes up the uni by charging it using a charger from a different make, it is still under warranty?
hey jasper
The only thing that's different there is the colour, a charger colour coordinated with an MDA Pro isn't with a jasjar.
what do you mean by colour coordinated
The name 'charger' is really a misnomer. What 'chargers' actually do is provide a (semi-[1])constant voltage at a certain maximum number of amps, ie, they're *power supplies*. The actual charger which takjes care of the battery charging algorythm is integrated inside the Uni. All the 'charger' needs to do is make electricity of the kind that the *actual* charging chip inside is designed to run on.
does this mean that charging algorithm is actually within the phone itself, i mean when the phine is 100% charged, how does it know that it should not charge any more?
so there are 2 types of USB sockets, one with 5 pins and the other with 4 pins. did nto the standard USB have 4 pins?
is the 10 quid charger from the orange store meant for an actual spv5000? the t-mobile store gave me 2 chargers which they said were meant for the razr and the ysaid it would work just fine on the razr
re orange 10 quid charger - no idea. i read on a forum that someone else had got one and said it worked, so i got one too and it worked great.
previously I had used the supplied usb cable with a car adaptor and it couldn't keep up with running tomtom, so the battery would go flat. with this charger i can run tomtom and the device charges fine too.
thanks for the reply
you had received a usb cable with a car adaptor ? was this a unit which plugged into the cig lighter socket of the car
hi
this charger works with the exec and charges it quickly
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CAR-CHARGER-O...itemZ5849569917QQcategoryZ48674QQcmdZViewItem
xda_guy said:
thanks for the reply
you had received a usb cable with a car adaptor ? was this a unit which plugged into the cig lighter socket of the car
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The cable was the standard one supplied. the car adaptor does plug into the cigarette lighter socket - one was supplied with a palm t3 car kit, another with an ipaq car kit. both never worked as previously stated (showed charging but failed to keep up with battery drain in use).
xda_guy said:
The only thing that's different there is the colour, a charger colour coordinated with an MDA Pro isn't with a jasjar.
what do you mean by colour coordinated
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I mean that if you get a silver charger, same colour as the MDA Pro, it will not be a black charger, same as the Jasjar. So it may not look quite as cool, but it'll work just fine.
The name 'charger' is really a misnomer. What 'chargers' actually do is provide a (semi-[1])constant voltage at a certain maximum number of amps, ie, they're *power supplies*. The actual charger which takjes care of the battery charging algorythm is integrated inside the Uni. All the 'charger' needs to do is make electricity of the kind that the *actual* charging chip inside is designed to run on.
does this mean that charging algorithm is actually within the phone itself, i mean when the phine is 100% charged, how does it know that it should not charge any more?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are three components that have to do with charging: First there's the battery. It's got four contacts (+, -, and two others) which means it's probably a smart or at least semi-smart battery, which has internal sensors for temperature etc, either directly wired to outside or with a small chip to multiplex the lot onto just 2 wires, then there's a chip inside the phone which does the actual charging, it probably knows how full the battery is by measuring the output voltage, and regulates charge current based on that and the temperature., and communicates that to the OS. Then there's the so-called 'charger' outside the phone, or the USB cable, which simply provides the raw electricity to work with.
so there are 2 types of USB sockets, one with 5 pins and the other with 4 pins. did nto the standard USB have 4 pins?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Standard 'large' USB ports, both the ones found on your PC (long rectangular in crossection, 'type A') and the ones like are on a printer (more squarish in crosssection, 'type-B') have 4 pins. There was at one time a mini-USB with 4 pins as well, bit that was never common and is highly obsolete. And then there's the regular mini-USB we have these days, which has 5 pins. It comes in three variants which look almost the same: Mini-B, which you get on things like digicams, external cardreaders, etc ('slave devices'), and on the end of the USB cables that came with your universal (since it acts as a slave device when hooked to a PC), then there's mini-A, which is for computers that can't fit a fullsize one (rare), and then there's mini-AB, which can be used by both mini-A and mini-B plugs, and is the physical port found on the universal. These should be used by PDAs that provide USB-Host functionality, that is, you can hook them to a PC and they'll act as a slave device, but then you can hook them to a car reader or external hard drive and they'll act as host. Unfortunately, while the Universal has the physical mini-AB port, it doesn't *actually* support USB-Host functionality.
thanks for the info on the usb connectors
I got this.
Works in your car AND in a standard wall outlet in case you dont have a laptop or computer around to do power over usb.
http://www.boxwave.com/products/versacharger/index.htm
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They even have an airplane adaptor in the case that your favorite airline has outlets...
I NEVER leave home w/o this thing...like EVER...
xda_guy said:
does this mean that charging algorithm is actually within the phone itself, i mean when the phine is 100% charged, how does it know that it should not charge any more?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When the battery reaches its maximum capacity the voltage dips slightly. the chargers in the phone detect this and stop charging.
Regards
The Pilgrim
xda guy
You can use your V3 car charger to charge your Exec. I do although it doesn't charge as fast as your mains charger or one designed specifically for it. It's something to do with the milli amps output.
However, it won't charge unless you plug it in with the clam Closed and the device OFF. You can subsequently open the clam and/or turn it on (for example if your running TT) and it continues to charge. If you plug the charger in with the device on, switch it off and it will charge (you can then turn it back on).
BTW - The V3 mains charger WON'T charge the Exec !!!
I use the one from Brodit, supplied by www.dsldevelopments.com and it works a treat. Never any problems, and Brodit gear is always top notch!
Ant
thanks for the replies
hey does the versacharger work with all mobile phones?
voltage of the battery dips slightly?
However, it won't charge unless you plug it in with the clam Closed and the device OFF. You can subsequently open the clam and/or turn it on (for example if your running TT) and it continues to charge. If you plug the charger in with the device on, switch it off and it will charge (you can then turn it back on).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hey how do you turn the exec off?
hey how do you turn the exec off?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ermmm, with the on/off button !
This post will show you how to MOD an un-official Samsung USB wall charger into one that will enable full speed charging on Samsung Galaxy S phones.
8 $ ebay cheap wall battery charger power output specs:
350 mA battery charging speed - doesnt matter...
800 mA USB port.. THIS IS WHAT YOU WANT!! more the better. nice if the phone would use all of it... Need AC Mode... (thats what this post is for!)
Samsung wall USB charger is only 750mA! AND it will set AC mode.
The theory behind it is with samsung galaxy phones and "official chargers":
if the middle 2 data pins on the usb, while getting 5v to the outer 2 pins it tells the phone that it is an *official samsung* charger and enables full speed charging.
without the middle 2 pins connected (with or without data flow) will not charge at full speed. even if you supply 800mA it will only charge around 350mA
well there have been posts of cable hacks to do this or adapters... ha! tape and tinfoil... or hack the cable apart! And you cant use the cable with the PC anymore!
heres my mod... bend 2 pins.. DONE! solder if you know how for better connection!
***only use this charger for samsung phones, not all USB devices will like this, -may dammage some- as the samsung phone is PROGRAMMED to know what to do if the 2 data pins are shorted out***
Phone confirms AC charging NOT USB NOW!!
Now i can leave my Samsung Charger upstairs, and this one downstairs.
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You know how long it takes to charge an extended battery on USB mode? almost 5 hours! or at 350 mah in the battery charger? almost 7 hours!
I was able to charge my extended battery (says 2500mah) from 8% to 100% in about 2 hours 45 min over USB cable (AC mode) with the screen off. In the official samsung charger it was a little over 3 hours. just in the battery cradle it takes around 5-6 hours. Very much improved!
Good guide. I did the same modification to my Verizon car charging cable. I don't have Verizon, but I swapped an iPhone car charger with a verizon user who got rid of his Motorola Android.
This mod works on any charger. The device will always display "Charging(AC)" and this enables full charging capability.
I modded my cable by taking apart the microUSB connector and dropping a bit of solder between pins 2 and 3 on the back side of the connector. It works great.
Do not do this on a cable which may be connected to a PC. If the PC is older and does not have overcurrent protection, it may fry the USB Power Supply.
You could also use one of those short usb extender cables that come with some usb dongles. I did that with one of mine and it works great. Don't even have to take the cable apart just carve out a small part of the plastic connector between the pins and bridge it with solder. Or use a conductive pen- haven't tried that though.
Wow i'm so lost, so does this apply to the vibrant...
You know maybe I have had my foot up my ass for sometime then..
I ALWAYS charge my phone with the USB charger connected to the computer and it seems to take forever...
You must forgive me but I always leave my phone charging on my PC everynight and have actually lost the AC power wall plug portion...
Will connecting this through the USB of the computer also only supply the 350mA instead of the full 800mA like your saying, or will the computer always deliver the sexy amount?
Thank you sir, you are a genius?
jwleonhart said:
Wow i'm so lost, so does this apply to the vibrant...
You know maybe I have had my foot up my ass for sometime then..
I ALWAYS charge my phone with the USB charger connected to the computer and it seems to take forever...
You must forgive me but I always leave my phone charging on my PC everynight and have actually lost the AC power wall plug portion...
Will connecting this through the USB of the computer also only supply the 350mA instead of the full 800mA like your saying, or will the computer always deliver the sexy amount?
Thank you sir, you are a genius?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most of PCs provide up to 500mA on single USB port or on pair of ports, haven't heard about mainboard which doesn't throotle it and let power drain go higher.
However, you can mod usb cable with 2 male and 1female connectors, that kind for powering external hard drives.
Here is a picture of the pinouts in a usb cable..
Now obviously you have the 5V, Ground, and data, but then where would you add in more power?
jwleonhart said:
Now obviously you have the 5V, Ground, and data, but then where would you add in more power?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The talk about connecting the pins 2 and 3 is only an indication to the phone. Normally, usb ports from computers, etc. will only provide 500 mA of current. Typical wall adapters provide 1000 mA of current. Samsung phones will normally only draw the smaller amount of current, unless pins 2 and 3 are shorted, which tells the phone to charge at the full rate of 1000 mA.
So pin 1 still carriers power, it just carries more power when connected to a source capable of providing the power (e.g. most wall adapters), and pins 2 and 3 tell the phone to accept the increased power.
jwleonhart said:
Wow i'm so lost, so does this apply to the vibrant...
You know maybe I have had my foot up my ass for sometime then..
I ALWAYS charge my phone with the USB charger connected to the computer and it seems to take forever...
You must forgive me but I always leave my phone charging on my PC everynight and have actually lost the AC power wall plug portion...
Will connecting this through the USB of the computer also only supply the 350mA instead of the full 800mA like your saying, or will the computer always deliver the sexy amount?
Thank you sir, you are a genius?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
if the 2 data pins arent joined the phone WILL NOT receive anymore than 350. this tells the phone "im an official charger, take more!"
if you are going to mod a cable to have the 2 data pins joined, make sure the 2 pins shorted on the phone end and NOT THE PC END of the cable, and NOT BOTH EITHER. shorting the data pins on the computer side can blow your usb port.... or more.
Thanks
Thanks, Worked For Me!
Same thing you can make via kernel by adjusting max8998 regulator driver. I've done it in my Galaxian kernel
Do you mean to build a kernel that has different settings for the USB resistor input? What/where was the specific change you made?
TRusselo said:
Do you mean to build a kernel that has different settings for the USB resistor input? What/where was the specific change you made?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Voltage regulator and the charging current part: max8998-private.h, a file that contains charging values in mA:
Code:
#define MAX8998_ICHG_90 0
#define MAX8998_ICHG_380 1
#define MAX8998_ICHG_475 2
#define MAX8998_ICHG_550 3
#define MAX8998_ICHG_570 4
#define MAX8998_ICHG_600 5
#define MAX8998_ICHG_700 6
#define MAX8998_ICHG_800 7
Battery driver part: s5pc110_battery.c and defined AC and USB charging rates (modified by me to 800mA when on AC and 550mA on USB):
Code:
if (chg->cable_status == CABLE_TYPE_AC)
max8998_write_reg(i2c, MAX8998_REG_CHGR1,
(MAX8998_TOPOFF_10 << MAX8998_SHIFT_TOPOFF) |
(MAX8998_RSTR_DISABLE << MAX8998_SHIFT_RSTR) |
(MAX8998_ICHG_800 << MAX8998_SHIFT_ICHG));
else if (chg->cable_status == CABLE_TYPE_USB)
max8998_write_reg(i2c, MAX8998_REG_CHGR1,
(MAX8998_TOPOFF_25 << MAX8998_SHIFT_TOPOFF) |
(MAX8998_RSTR_DISABLE << MAX8998_SHIFT_RSTR) |
(MAX8998_ICHG_550 << MAX8998_SHIFT_ICHG));
One more thing in i9000 kernel sources: drivers/usb/gadget/android.c
Code:
#ifdef CONFIG_USB_ANDROID_SAMSUNG_COMPOSITE
/* soonyong.cho : This value of max power is referred from S1 */
[COLOR="Red"].bMaxPower = 0x30, /* 96ma */[/COLOR]
#else /* original */
[COLOR="YellowGreen"].bMaxPower = 0xFA, /* 500ma */[/COLOR]
#endif /* CONFIG_USB_ANDROID_SAMSUNG_COMPOSITE
from where I removed the condition to make it look like that:
Code:
[COLOR="YellowGreen"].bMaxPower = 0xFA, /* 500ma */[/COLOR]
BEFORE:
AFTER:
Now that's the kind of stuff we like to see!
NOW ENGLISH IMAGE (non android related)...
Is there any particular reason why you did not move USB speed to match the PC speed? Was it to avoid drawing too much power from your USB port?
TRusselo said:
Is there any particular reason why you did not move USB speed to match the PC speed? Was it to avoid drawing too much power from your USB port?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes and no, because single USB port cannot deliver more than 500mA, but if you use two ports simultaneously, you are able to use full 800mA charging current which is limited by the kernel driver so there is no way to charm the phone.
If you have any USB 3.0 ports those are able to go up to 900mA from a single port
I just tried this and it worked perfectly, thanks! Very easy soldering job.
EDIT: Used my $8 radioshack iron, it was plenty. No need to break out the Hakko station for this.
some kernel devs on ICS SGS project seem to think the above kernel change to up the USB mode to 500mah (less than AC mode) could cause the battery to explode, or damage the phone, or fry the USB ports of the computer..... and the batteries *like* being charged slower anyway... lithium ion batteries... but its all "simple chemistry" according to "one of them".. ignoring simple electronics...
i dont know where to start on how many things are wrong with what they think.... but I am not a kernel compiling god like them..... so I am no-one to tell them different.... (in their eyes).
making the suggestion of the above kernel change. led to a 20 minute bashing session of how i am wrong.
i just wanted to suggest, and leave. not really caring if they liked it or not. but ignorance is a powerful foe.
anyone wanna explain for me?
makes me re-think donating to people i dont know.
TRusselo said:
some kernel devs on ICS SGS project seem to think the above kernel change to up the USB mode to 500mah (less than AC mode) could cause the battery to explode, or damage the phone, or fry the USB ports of the computer..... and the batteries *like* being charged slower anyway... lithium ion batteries... but its all "simple chemistry" according to "one of them".. ignoring simple electronics...
i dont know where to start on how many things are wrong with what they think.... but I am not a kernel compiling god like them..... so I am no-one to tell them different.... (in their eyes).
making the suggestion of the above kernel change. led to a 20 minute bashing session of how i am wrong.
i just wanted to suggest, and leave. not really caring if they liked it or not. but ignorance is a powerful foe.
anyone wanna explain for me?
makes me re-think donating to people i dont know.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So now you know why you didn't saw any info about my interesting finding... ^^
Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk
we need to have software devs that understand hardware...
im too much in the middle. lol
hello to all friends
i am realy tired of nook color it cant take charge when it gose to 10% and want to charg again it takes more then 8 hours to get 100% and just keep charge only 5 hours with 0% brightness
i have cm 7.10 stable
and using v6 super charger
i have some questions
1. Is this rom the best for battery life
2.should i use other kernel ? If yes with one is the best
3.and what to do to charge it in 4 hours thanx
i am using nook color originall charger
7.1 Stable should be fine for battery life. In a previous thread of yours regarding the NC charging, you mentioned that you are charging through a laptop USB port. This will provide slow charging as compared to having an actual power adapter plugged into the wall.
When I have mine on the outlet, it will charge from nothing to full in less than 4 hours. Nothing special. I just don't charge it through USB.
You have to make sure you are using the Barnes and Noble Nook Color charging cable. It has a n light that changes color from orange (charging) to green (charged). If you are truly using the correct cable it should completely charge in about 4hrs. If you have the right cable and your Nook takes 8hrs to charge, it might be that you need to recalibrate your battery, since its reading it wrong. To do this download battery calibration from the market, charge your Nook until 100%, run the app and follow the instructions. Once you use the app you need to let your Nook discharge completely, just use it as you normally do and wait until it turns off on its on. Then charge it completely until 100% without interruption
Regarding your 5hr battery life, that depends on what you are doing. Mine last 5hrs if I used a lot of internet streaming (Netflix, Youtube, Hulu, etc.) and gaming. When internet is off I can get around 7-10 hrs, with very low brightness. I get more battery life If I just use it to read at night with nightmode on and very low brightness.
hello thanx friend for replay.
I am using originally b&n charger with a simple micro USB cable that cakes with my xperia x10
afghan-gsm-mastermind said:
hello thanx friend for replay.
I am using originally b&n charger with a simple micro USB cable that cakes with my xperia x10
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is your problem... to utilize the fast charge mode (4 hour charge) you MUST use B&N charger AND cable.
Stop whining by doing the following
1. use B&N charger
2. use B&N cable
3. charging from outlet.
votinh said:
Stop whining by doing the following
1. use B&N charger
2. use B&N cable
3. charging from outlet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
place can u pot ur charger cable picture thanx
afghan-gsm-mastermind said:
place can u pot ur charger cable picture thanx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
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afghan-gsm-mastermind said:
[...] and just keep charge only 5 hours with 0% brightness
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you sure the unit is going into deep sleep mode when the screen goes off? Check with CPU Spy (from the Market) to make sure. If it isn't, your battery will be constantly draining and you need to figure out what is keeping the unit awake.
so it semes that I don't have originally cable
another question can I use charger that gives this voltage
output =DC 5.0/2.0A
with sample micro. USB?
im running 7.1 and the only problem i have even on ics nightly is that when i charge the nook while its off it turns on its self, now that its on and charging i tun it off, 10 min later it turns back on....this is the only thing that bugs me
yes... but it will still take a very long time to charge.
afghan-gsm-mastermind said:
so it semes that I don't have originally cable
another question can I use charger that gives this voltage
output =DC 5.0/2.0A
with sample micro. USB?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Nook Color has 3 power states:
Discharging - no external power source and running on internal battery
USB charging - drawing up to 0.5A via the USB connector. This will only charge the Nook very slowly particularly if screen is on and the Nook is actively being used.
AC charging - drawing up to 1.9A via the USB connector. This will charge the Nook rapidly (typically < 4 hours from 0 - 100%)
You will be in AC charging only if the Nook USB is connected by the special original Barnes and Noble cable to a suitable USB power source that can supply up to 1.9A and also has the USB data lines shorted together to indicate that it is a charger rather than a data USB port. The B & N charger is like that but other similar adapters can also be used.
The B & N cable has extra deep pins in its special micro USB connector that carry the higher than normal current and the Nook will not go into AC charging without these. I am not aware of any alternative source for this type of cable other than B & N. Be especially wary of items say on eBay that claim to be Nook Color charging cables. All the ones I have looked at are just conventional micro USB that will only give USB charge rates.
You will be in USB charging if the USB is connected to an computer USB port no matter what cable you use. You will also be in USB charging if you use a non B & N cable to a charger.
thanx from all who helped me
the only question i have now i cant buy b&n cable becuse i am in afghanistan im working mobile software and hardware can i make this cable my self if possible if any one can gives me schematics of cablen thanx
afghan-gsm-mastermind said:
thanx from all who helped me
the only question i have now i cant buy b&n cable becuse i am in afghanistan im working mobile software and hardware can i make this cable my self if possible if any one can gives me schematics of cablen thanx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd say it was pretty much impossible to make it yourself as it needs the special micro-USB connector with extra pins and a deeper reach than normal and I'm not aware of a source of this part.
Did you not get one with your Nook originally? B & N would replace broken ones under warranty. It is also available as a spare part from B & N for about $15 but you would probably need someone in US to purchase it for you and ship it on as I doubt whether they would ship it international.
Android311 said:
im running 7.1 and the only problem i have even on ics nightly is that when i charge the nook while its off it turns on its self, now that its on and charging i tun it off, 10 min later it turns back on....this is the only thing that bugs me
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is normal for the Nook to turn its self on when charging as long as you leave it alone it will have very little impact on the charging time.
bobtidey said:
I'd say it was pretty much impossible to make it yourself as it needs the special micro-USB connector with extra pins and a deeper reach than normal and I'm not aware of a source of this part.
Did you not get one with your Nook originally? B & N would replace broken ones under warranty. It is also available as a spare part from B & N for about $15 but you would probably need someone in US to purchase it for you and ship it on as I doubt whether they would ship it international.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hello
no.I did not get a.spocial charging usb becusee I bought second hand. one more question when.I am charging with my nokia n97 orignall charger 1200mAh in setting it shows Ac and it can charge in 6hours
now I don't know what to do
afghan-gsm-mastermind said:
hello
no.I did not get a.spocial charging usb becusee I bought second hand. one more question when.I am charging with my nokia n97 orignall charger 1200mAh in setting it shows Ac and it can charge in 6hours
now I don't know what to do
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmmm. That's interesting. I had thought the Nook used both the extra pins in the special connector and the shorted data lines before it went into AC charging mode, but I've just done a quick test and it does go into AC mode with a conventional cable connected to a charger with the data lines shorted.
Now the reason for the extra pins was really to spread the current across more connections as the specification of a normal micro USB supply pin does not really allow for the full 1.9A maximum charge rate. So I guess that there is a risk that one may be overloading the pin a little bit by using a normal cable. On the other hand there are other devices that charge at similar currents through normal micro USB so the risk is probably pretty low.
If you are getting a 6 hour recharge with a somewhat under-powered charger then that sounds pretty good and you may lower it down to more like 4 hours if you got a charger capable of supporting 1.9A.
joeb690 said:
It is normal for the Nook to turn its self on when charging as long as you leave it alone it will have very little impact on the charging time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Was it designed that way? or is that just how the beast it
My NC, A855 Moto phone, an Archos7, and my Flytouch5 all do the same thing. Must be designed in.
Sent from my CM9 NookColor using Tapatalk
The project-Adding internal USB for other devices (HUB,micro SD,FM,flash-storage,etc...).
We should have a few deferent options to connect USB internally. This thread should cover them all.
I really want to find a easy solderless method(plug/clips) I have a few ideas but would need to find the female and male connectors for the front camera or maybe soundboard connectors.
or
maybe disconnect the micro USB from the ribbon and run it up to the hub then back to the micro USB connector from the HUB that's one reason for the hub, so we can add a micro SD, a rear camera and the last port (HUB only has 3 ports active, it might be possible to find a different HUB that has 4 ports but this one only had 3) for ether some more flash storage or to hook up the solderless mod to mother board.
We can use the micro USB connection at bottom of the mother board a couple different ways. We could use both the data and power from the connector. We could also just use the data +/- from the micro USB connector and use the power from a different power source like the 7.4V from the battery and drop it down to 5V but none of the wires are 7.4v there is two running at 3.7v, if we could find the 7.4v on the board or a connector somewhere this could be done
Some pics
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http://s10.postimage.org/6zg4euc21/N7_cable.jpg
Does this mod actually work or is that last picture just what it might look like?
atticusmas said:
Does this mod actually work or is that last picture just what it might look like?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not yet, Just trying to find some other wiring options and parts before I wire it up.
Would this guy be similar to the nexus tablet?
nabitablet .com/specs/nabi2
amazon. com/Fuhu-NABI-NABI2-NV7A-7-Inch-Tablet/dp/B008DBI5RI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1342981188&sr=8-4&keywords=nabi+2+tablet
Maybe the board could be close, find out how to use the microSD slot on the nexus 7 tablet?
(sorry about the chopped up url's, I guess I can't post links yet)
I Found this little USB HUB and it fits perfect.
This is it before it got striped
Still just in mock up and not connected yet, but it does still close up fine. So I'm pretty sure a hub is a go(for me anyway) and still have room for some flash storage that will go where the rear camera should have gone or just beside the hub
Has anything happened with this project?
Camping for a few days with the family, then back at it.
Wow that's awesome man! Keep on the good work!!
Envoyé depuis mon Nexus 7 avec Tapatalk
What do you mean by an issue with remounting when you use the power from the USB? I had read somewhere about someone shorting two pins to make the mod work but you could no longer charge and would need a switch to deactivate the short to charge it. If any switch is needed to change anything physically then I was thinking the tiny type that you press with a pen head or similar, that is recessed.
I hope you make progress when your back on it. I ordered the usb otg cable and have some tiny micro sdhc readers that slide into a usb slot that are as thin as a reg. sd card. I figured I could solder wires onto one and mount it for the card reader. I was thinking to use hot glue or similar between the soldered connections for safety since it isnt easy to get factory type solder joints all the time on small stuff (even though I am decent at soldering).
I hope someone can come up with the software hack needed to be able to actually mount the micro sd and install to it like any other tablet can.
Thanks for the pictures and work you are doing, I am sure many are watching :good:
Just a few comments on this project:
If you put a hub or device in then it requires that you operate the tablet's USB interface in host mode.
Normally, something supplies power and will not accept power for charging when in host mode.
There are hacks to get around this, but I'd see if I could get this all working externally before I started modifying.
You could end up with your hub idea working find, but you are unable to charge the tablet.
When you do lay the cables in, twist the data pair and leave the two power leads straight.
This looks awesome! Can't wait to see the tutorial if one becomes available, these devices get me in trouble!
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app
Have been watching this thread with great interest as well. Indeed, I always only lurked on XDA, this piqued my interest enough to actually join.
Fingers crossed for OP!
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app
Hub fits I just need to come up with a 5V power somehow got the Data and ground figured. Can someone come up with any ideas to create 5V power, maybe some fancy circuitry to bump the power from battery to 5V?
iAppleDev said:
Hub fits I just need to come up with a 5V power somehow got the Data and ground figured. Can someone come up with any ideas to create 5V power, maybe some fancy circuitry to bump the power from battery to 5V?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What model number hub did you use, does that have the USB OTG built in to it?
I am going to ask a few people in another type of forum about the voltage, a few on there know more than I on this topic. What is the battery stock voltage? I first was thinking resisters but I think we would need to know the exact current going through it to determine the right size. I am searching for tiny DC voltage regulators to see what I can find also, but wasn't sure the stock voltage. Here is some info on DC voltage regulators youtube.com/watch?v=GSzVs7_aW-Y&feature=fvwrel I cant post links yet so it doesn't have the www . The video talks about regulating DC voltage to power 5volt usb devices.
Do you think anyone will have a custom ROM or other hack so we can mount and install to the micro SDHC card once this mod is complete? Because that is what I want before I go this far.
Glad your back at it though! Thanks for your work on this.
Normally the 5V power to external devices is fed from a charge pump in the USB PHY interface chipset.
Some non-standard implementations only supply 3.7V battery power.
3.7V may/may not be enough for your hub and SD card.
If you are using 3.7V to a standard USB/SD card adapter, you might try bypassing the LDO in the adapter.
Also, many devices can only host about 100 mA.
Both hubs and USB/SD card adapters can be current hogs.
I think that some actually experimentation is called for before taking a Dremel tool to your tablet.
Renate NST said:
Normally the 5V power to external devices is fed from a charge pump in the USB PHY interface chipset.
Some non-standard implementations only supply 3.7V battery power.
3.7V may/may not be enough for your hub and SD card.
If you are using 3.7V to a standard USB/SD card adapter, you might try bypassing the LDO in the adapter.
Also, many devices can only host about 100 mA.
Both hubs and USB/SD card adapters can be current hogs.
I think that some actually experimentation is called for before taking a Dremel tool to your tablet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wouldn't it be best to us a non powered usb hub to split the usb connection? I doubt a small keyboard would use much and as far as I go, I would only use the usb for a small case sized keyboard, charging the device and the micro sdhc card/reader.
So is the battery only 3.7 volts? I was thinking it might be more and we needed to step down, so we need to step it up for the micro sdhc reader?
eBandit078 said:
So is the battery only 3.7 volts? I was thinking it might be more and we needed to step down, so we need to step it up for the micro sdhc reader?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's actually two 3.7v Li-Poly cells set up in series for a total of 7.4v. As pointed out (rather rudely) in a prior post, the leads aren't spliced on the pack itself so that a 5v USB input can charge the batteries. My old Acer A100 actually had the batteries spliced so that a 12v charger was needed. It had very weak battery life, but the upside was that the 12V charger would take it from 15% to 100% is a little less than an hour.
Renate NST said:
If you put a hub or device in then it requires that you operate the tablet's USB interface in host mode.
Normally, something supplies power and will not accept power for charging when in host mode.
There are hacks to get around this, but I'd see if I could get this all working externally before I started modifying.
You could end up with your hub idea working find, but you are unable to charge the tablet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Very good points. You may be happy to know that the USB specification recently provided a means for charging an OTG device while in host mode. It's called "Accessory Charger Adapter". See Chapter 6, and in particular Figure 6-2 from the specification:
www.usb.org/developers/devclass_docs/BCv1.2_070312.zip
If you could nail this down, you might solve a bunch of challenges with the +5V supply at once. Not sure what it would take to implement though. A cursory search for dedicated ICs didn't produce anything for me.
Renate NST said:
When you do lay the cables in, twist the data pair and leave the two power leads straight.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
:good: Second that suggestion.
So this device runs on 7.4V dual Li-ion batteries?
Is there a separate charger input or only over the USB?
Hello.Does TN7 have wireless charging module inside if not then can it be installed?.
subzero82 said:
Hello.Does TN7 have wireless charging module inside if not then can it be installed?.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would like to know if this is possible also as the micro USB connector in mine has gotten crushed when I accidentally pushed the connector in the wrong way up. I need to find some way of charging it and nobody seems to be able to offer a repair for it.
Stargazer Optimus said:
I would like to know if this is possible also as the micro USB connector in mine has gotten crushed when I accidentally pushed the connector in the wrong way up. I need to find some way of charging it and nobody seems to be able to offer a repair for it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
wireless charging does work if you get a 1000ma output plate, the hassle is it has to go behind the copper foil plate under the cover.
you can patch a usb cable to the battery and use a smart charger to keep it safe or get clever and solder to a live input like the fuse on the IO board. thread it through the stylus hole
you can if carefull patch a USB extension cable into it and mod the case to get a proper socket back or maybe see if a phone repair ship will fit a usb b socket to it.
The easy answer is no. It does not have this built-in, and the battery is non-removeable. There may be some fancy hacker way to do it that involves taking the thing apart and soldering stuff, but there's no consumer-oriented way to do it.
as a non fancy hacker type I have been picking these up with bad ports on purpose.
if you understand a soldering iron and can make 4 joints then its a simple enough fix to get a cheap high power tablet.
chargers such as the QI wireless units or powermats are intelligent so you wont run the risk of burning the house down as they switch off when charged although the unit wont tell you it is on charge the battery level will creep up.
the powermat kits are going dirt cheap for phones like the blackberry torch or iphone 3, you strip out the receiver, connect it to the battery and place between the foil and back plate.
the only issue per se is not being able to charge through a case like the fintie despite the 7mm claims for the chargers which pick up the device but fail to lock and charge. however it is possible to split the fintie case putting the QI charger internals inside it so you can plug the case in instead and charge semi normally.
the main difference between the QI and powermat is the latter is a bit thicker and has magnets in the receiver to allow a positive connection it beeps when connected and comes with its own dedicated charger, the QI unit needs a standard micro usb one.
the usb port is replacable but not at home and the wireless option at least keeps you up and running if it fails. trimming a bit out of the case will allow a proper socket to be fitted instead of the badly designed original. it will just stick out the case a few mm but hold the plug the right way round and more securely.
one issue is that like the last one I picked up is that you need a charged device to test the socket properly incase it is just the usual below minimum charge problem android devices seem to suffer from
if the device is rooted then it should be possible to do everything required even with bad ota by using recovery and the sd card.
so it is fixable for under 20 pounds and I've been buying them for around 25 off ebay. :highfive:
I have managed to get wireless charging installed on my device so it is now useable again. I have connected a QI charging card to some contacts on the IO board so you get the lightening bolt when it is charging. I have also installed a charging coil into a case so that it can be charged by plugging a charger into the case.
If the device goes completely flat however, the power from it is insufficient and you get stuck in a state of the battery icon on the screen which can consume more power than the card can deliver so it won't get going again.
I'll post with pictures of what I have done so other interested parties can give it a go if they like when I get them all together.
To add QI standard wireless charging to my TN7, first I took out the IO board, used my multimeter to find to contacts to the + and - 5V DC supply from the microusb on the board and soldered some wires to them as below:
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The wires I took out of a spare usb cable. The other ends of the wires I soldered to the contacts of a QI reciever from which I had cut the microusb connector off and exposed some of the wires:
There is of course some tape applied to the soldered contacts on the QI receiver to prevent short circuits. I then peeled the sponge tape pads from the battery and repositioned them to allow the receiver coil to sit against the battery so that it would not cause a bulge in the device:
Finally I cut a section out of the copper heat spreader in the back cover:
All in all not a big job. The wires pass by the volume switches when the case is snapped back together in this case. The QI receiver used in this case can only charge the battery at about 15% per hour when the screen is off.
Awesome walkthrough! I'm still never coming near any of my devices with a soldering iron though... every time I've tried to solder anything, I end up with a mess and a broken gadget.
Question?
Stargazer Optimus said:
Finally I cut a section out of the copper heat spreader in the back cover:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can I ask you one thing? From the picture below, which part is the battery? Can you highlight it? It'd be a big help.
Torajirou said:
Can I ask you one thing? From the picture below, which part is the battery? Can you highlight it? It'd be a big help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The battery is underneath the wireless reciever is in the picture. It is almost the full width of the unit and goes up to the electronics which is almost the top half of the unit. It has the black tape on it either side of and below the wireless reciever.
Okay, so could those two solder points be used to solder a cable to charge the device, like say a USB cable, solder the power wires from the cable to the solder points, obviously making sure not to reverse the polarity, and then use that as a replacement to charge a unit with a broken micro usb port, and not have to worry about using a smart charger or anything??? If so this tutorial would be a life saver!
CapeNick said:
Okay, so could those two solder points be used to solder a cable to charge the device, like say a USB cable, solder the power wires from the cable to the solder points, obviously making sure not to reverse the polarity, and then use that as a replacement to charge a unit with a broken micro usb port, and not have to worry about using a smart charger or anything??? If so this tutorial would be a life saver!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I have used that method to charge the device in the past before installing the wireless system. Be aware however that when you bypass the charging circuitry, there is the potential for overcharging...
The battery has red and black wires on the solder contact points so pretty obvious if you want to do that.
I've soldered QI universal wireless charger to my tn7 and its not charging anyways , same as for micro usb anyone have any ideas about whats going in my tablet ?
Nameitis said:
I've soldered QI universal wireless charger to my tn7 and its not charging anyways , same as for micro usb anyone have any ideas about whats going in my tablet ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you provide some information about how and where you have soldered the charger? and did you check the polarity?
What kind of charger are you using, Stargazer Optimus? I was thinking about buying the Nexus charger because it's rated at 1.8A output.
Stargazer Optimus said:
Can you provide some information about how and where you have soldered the charger? and did you check the polarity?
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The module I've bought and the pad are attached as images
And for polarity I was referring to your post and for QI module I checked usb wiki.
To note when I soldered and put QI module on pad it switched from red (not charging) to blue (charging) but tablet was not charging.
I was checking with original tn7 charger 5v 2a, 5v 1a iphone charger and tried with pc usb port all three were doing same stuff.
I did detach io module from main board before soldering.
You will need to check that the receiver is delivering the required voltage and current with a multimeter. Ideally you will do this at the ends of the wires that get soldered on the IO board.
Stargazer Optimus said:
You will need to check that the receiver is delivering the required voltage and current with a multimeter. Ideally you will do this at the ends of the wires that get soldered on the IO board.
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If this helps, before cutting QI module I've tested on Samsung alpha smartphone and it did charge the phone, could it be cause of amps ? and yes when I'll get hand on a multimeter I will test.
Thanks for help!
I just tried this out but made a big mistake that some of you may make as well. I assumed the 5V wire was 5V and the ground was ground. Boy, was I wrong. They're switched! But I only found this out after hooking everything up and putting the receiver on the charger to bench test before piecing things back together. It's been about an hour since I've finished up and all it shows is the battery signal with the lightning bolt in the middle and then it switches to an empty battery and keeps alternating like that. I'll keep it on the charger all day and hope it works out.
I'm using an Anker qi charger and a universal receiver sold on Amazon by Buboon, I think. Charger is rated at 1A output and receiver is rated at 500mA - 1A.
MRunabout said:
I just tried this out but made a big mistake that some of you may make as well. I assumed the 5V wire was 5V and the ground was ground. Boy, was I wrong. They're switched! But I only found this out after hooking everything up and putting the receiver on the charger to bench test before piecing things back together. It's been about an hour since I've finished up and all it shows is the battery signal with the lightning bolt in the middle and then it switches to an empty battery and keeps alternating like that. I'll keep it on the charger all day and hope it works out.
I'm using an Anker qi charger and a universal receiver sold on Amazon by Buboon, I think. Charger is rated at 1A output and receiver is rated at 500mA - 1A.
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Hey, did you figure it out? Mine's doing the same thing, though it's wired with usb cable, not a QI charger, though that may be the next step. I'm gonna leave it for now, and just keep an eye on it. Fingers crossed.