Database Users

fix: for battery completely dead.

Here you go
tools.
-2 usb cables
-wire cutter or box cutter
-computer- laptop
-wallcharger (optional)
btw dont try cutting up the wallcharger(you may electrocute yourself) only USB CABLE!
easier fix, take a standard usb cable. rip off the smaller end with a wire cutter, expose the red and black wire. take out your battery, than connect the negative(black) wire to the negative end of the battery, than the red wire to the positive end of the battery, leave it in there for exactly 3-5 minutes for jump start. after that turn your wizard on, and quickly shove it inside a new usb cable. or the wall charger.
note:
if not done correctly, you may damage your wizard or the battery. if theres a power overload or your power goes out. your wizard will burn out!
feedback is greatly appreciated.
p.s after that my battery seem to be weak, charge barely holds for 12 hours. after 12-14 hours it will die out. so i suggest buying a new battery after couple of days.

[Hack] HTC charger AC charging

DISCLAIMER​What follows is a modification I did on a non genuine (apparently) HTC AC charger with the european plug, bought from ebay. It includes desoldering and soldering so some experience is needed. For whatever reason, XDA forum and I, cannot be held responsibles for any kind of damage done to your mobile phone or charging equipment. Proceed at your own risk.
So that's the deal, I bought a DHD last month but it came with a UK charger. Using an adaptor made the whole thing really huge and flimsy, so I ordered a european charger from ebay. The thing is that when Im using the UK, Battery Widget Pro reports "AC charging" (800mA max) but on the ebay one it reports "USB charging" (380mA max).
I read this thread the other day and I thought why not give it a shot on this charger. After all, its cheap and I wont have to mess up with wires and USB extensions. Apparently, you have to short the Data wires together and leave them floating.
Step 1) Open the case
This is somewhat difficult. The case does not have any kind of screw so its glued down. In order to open the case without "severe" (cosmetic) damage I used a small vice. Just squeeze gently the upper part of the charger on both sides and you should hear a *clac*. After that using a bit of force and a flat screwdriver, you can open it.
Step 2) Remove the resistors on the Data+ contact
In order to create a dummy USB connection, Data contacts had to be adjusted according to USB specifications. So Data- was grounded and Data+ had a voltage of around 2.1V. Firstly, remove the resistors. Use a desoldering tool, a pump, a pair of pliers, whatever.
Step 3) Remove the PCB trace connecting Data- to ground
This is a bit tricky. As I mentioned before, the Data- is grounded. You must remove the pcb trace. I used a small flat screwdriver used on clockwork repairs to scratch the trace. You have to be patient and careful but it does the trick.
Step 4) Short the Data contacts and close the casing
Thats easy. Just a bit of solder between the middle USB pins (on the pcb side of course). After that close the casing, applying a bit of super glue on the rim. (sorry I didnt take a picture of this )
Thats it! You're done. What we've accomplished you say? Well, on USB charging my phone reported max 380mA. With this mod, it can reach 540mA! Its still not 800mA but its a gain nontheless. The charger is just warm. If it gets burned, I wont care much. As I said, its cheap.
(this is a report of 445mA, I will change it with a better one as soon as I have my phones battery lower )

HOWTO: Fast boot cable

just thought I'd share a short how to on making a fast boot cable.
First a fast boot cable is simply pin 1 (5v) shorted to pin 4 on the micro side, I know some use a resistor, probably a good idea, I didn't...
Unfortunately pin 4 has no wire.
The computer side doesn't have this pin.
So we have to use the micro side
Most places online say to use a Samsung micro usb cable.
This is because most usb cables don't have a place to solder for pin 4
FYI: You'll know you are in fast boot because your screen says fast boot,
I stupidly did not know this...I included a picture so you could see.
Items needed:
Samsung micro usb cable
Very small wire (I used wire wrap 30 gauge)
Soldering iron and solder
Small pair of diagonal cutters
Sharp knife
Continuity tester
Patience.
The work:
Take the micro end of the usb cable and carefully strip away the plastic
Encasing. Now you should see some tin foil looking stuff you are going to have to peel this away and discard it, under it is some paper white covering again peel away and discard.
The wire has some outside shielding wire that you'll have to discard a small amount of, most cheap wires don't have this shield anyway.
Now you should see these wires:
Red
Green
White
Black
And a bare copper soldered with the black
Sadly all this is in a clear plastic,
It was at this point I figured I should have sent scorp $12...
Used the small diag cutters to strip this away, after I got it started it just peeled off.
Now I ID'd pin 1 (5v red) and looked for pin 4 (it was labeled)
I used my continuity tester to verify nothing was hooked to this,
Then I soldered pin 1 to pin 4
And placed some shrink tube over it to make it look nice(ish)
Relevant pictures posted below:
The schematic I stole off the web and take no credit for and do not own
Sent from my GT-P3110 using xda app-developers app

Thanks mate Nice having this on the forum ^^
Sent from my KFTT using xda app-developers app

Thank you for this. I had the same cable at home and most of the wiring diagrams were more for a straight though config. Some solder and half a twisted pair of cat5 later I had a working cable. Not the prettiest thing but it unbricked my kindle!!

Just an FYI if you pin 4 to ground you get a otg cable for most devices
Sent from my GT-P3110 using xda app-developers app

why cant you just jump it in the wires

mrkhigh said:
just thought I'd share a short how to on making a fast boot cable.
First a fast boot cable is simply pin 1 (5v) shorted to pin 4 on the micro side, I know some use a resistor, probably a good idea, I didn't...
Unfortunately pin 4 has no wire.
The computer side doesn't have this pin.
So we have to use the micro side
Most places online say to use a Samsung micro usb cable.
This is because most usb cables don't have a place to solder for pin 4
FYI: You'll know you are in fast boot because your screen says fast boot,
I stupidly did not know this...I included a picture so you could see.
Items needed:
Samsung micro usb cable
Very small wire (I used wire wrap 30 gauge)
Soldering iron and solder
Small pair of diagonal cutters
Sharp knife
Continuity tester
Patience.
The work:
Take the micro end of the usb cable and carefully strip away the plastic
Encasing. Now you should see some tin foil looking stuff you are going to have to peel this away and discard it, under it is some paper white covering again peel away and discard.
The wire has some outside shielding wire that you'll have to discard a small amount of, most cheap wires don't have this shield anyway.
Now you should see these wires:
Red
Green
White
Black
And a bare copper soldered with the black
Sadly all this is in a clear plastic,
It was at this point I figured I should have sent scorp $12...
Used the small diag cutters to strip this away, after I got it started it just peeled off.
Now I ID'd pin 1 (5v red) and looked for pin 4 (it was labeled)
I used my continuity tester to verify nothing was hooked to this,
Then I soldered pin 1 to pin 4
And placed some shrink tube over it to make it look nice(ish)
Relevant pictures posted below:
The schematic I stole off the web and take no credit for and do not own
Sent from my GT-P3110 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am going to try this tomorrow for moto x xt1053.
battery fully, Only green light. Can not fastboot it.
I hope this works for me.

affineer said:
I am going to try this tomorrow for moto x xt1053.
battery fully, Only green light. Can not fastboot it.
I hope this works for me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A Fastboot cable shouldn't have any effect on a XT1053.
Older moto bootloader's couldn't charge the battery, so a Fastboot cable was used if battery was too low to flash firmware, by bypassing the battery an powering the device directly from usb.
Sent from my sailfish using XDA Labs

sd_shadow said:
A Fastboot cable shouldn't have any effect on a XT1053.
Older moto bootloader's couldn't charge the battery, so a Fastboot cable was used if battery was too low to flash firmware, by bypassing the battery an powering the device directly from usb.
Sent from my sailfish using XDA Labs
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have different usb cables, number of pins/wires is not same as orignal cable to make fast boot/ factory cable.
moto x was found stuck at "encryption unseccussful"
could not boot to fastboot or recovery.
Now battery is completely dead. device does not even get charging.
When connected to computer, computer detects a device and plays a sound of usb device connecting, Mobile shows only green light inside the earpiece. some times screen flashes with battery cell icon at 0%, and goes off in a second.
Can't help it.

Gonna try this. I just finished installing Nougat on my KF HD 7 (tate) and everything was going well until I installed magisk. Now I'm stuck on the kindle logo.

you can also see this
How to make Fastboot Cable for brick Kindle for Noob/Beginner
A fastboot, also called a "factory" cable is NOT the cable that came with your device from the factory. It is a cable used BY the factory to put a kindle into fastboot mode. It must be purchased or made. you can made it by yourself easily. Micro...
forum.xda-developers.com

USB to DC charging pinout

Hello
I'm hoping some USB expert can help me out here, I'm trying to make a USB to DC (2.5mm plug) cable that can supply 2A, I have the popular HP Touchpad wallcharger that's rated 5v 2A , so I took a spare quality usb cable (copper cables) it has red, black, green, white (and a big bare metal cable and aluminum wrapping, shielding probably), the DC plug end has two wires red + black, so I hook up red to red black to black (red is 5V black is ground, tested using a multimeter) but I don't seem to be getting as good of results that the stock cable I have gets, the stock cable charges the device at around 1.8 Amps , the cable I made only outputs 800ma to 1.3 amps and if I turn the brightness up it stops charging like it can't supply enough power amps (again stock cable works fine with full brightness).
I'm wondering if on the charger end I need to do something with the green, white wires they both output around 2 volts should these be shorted to the black or possibly red wires to add additional amperage?
I found a youtube video where someone made a similar PSP charger and they spliced both the green, white and blacks wires together, I just want to make sure this is correct way to do things.
youtube.com/watch?v=8WhMeZkrK8U
Btw I also purchased a pre-made cable from dealsextreme but it exhibits the same behavior where full-brightness the charging light dims and goes out on my device, I assumed the low quality of the cable was to blame or again something needs to be connected with the green, white wires.
I know similar questions have been asked before but most have dealt with USB to USB fast charging , with USB to DC I'm confused on what to do with the D- and D+ wires at the charger end should they be shorted together? or to the black cable

ok I think I answered my own question, I tried to do a Ohm test on the stock cable and it seems there was no connection to the green and white or to any of the other wires, since the Ohm reading always returned 0, red and black got a 1+ reading meaning they were connected and a circuit was completed.
Looking at my stock cable it has a big black magnet on it, researching google i found this might be a ferrite core cable, so maybe this somehow boosts the signal and lets the cable pull more amperage or something.

The cylindrical lump on some cables is a ferrite core.
Its purpose is to reduce the amount of logic-generated RF noise from finding its way onto the main span of cable and using it as an antenna.
It will not affect any aspect of charging/powering a device.
Yes, the white/green data pair are used sometimes to indicate a dedicated charger.
A dedicated charger can have more current drawn from it than a normal USB connection.
This subject is handled exhaustively here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1384253

otyg said:
ok I think I answered my own question, I tried to do a Ohm test on the stock cable and it seems there was no connection to the green and white or to any of the other wires, since the Ohm reading always returned 0, red and black got a 1+ reading meaning they were connected and a circuit was completed.
Looking at my stock cable it has a big black magnet on it, researching google i found this might be a ferrite core cable, so maybe this somehow boosts the signal and lets the cable pull more amperage or something.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What are you trying to do, make another Touchpad charger? I assume you made sure it can supply up to 2A at 5V.
Many chargers including the HP Touchpad one IIRC short the green and white data wires and this tells the device it can draw more current. If your ohmmeter was reading 0 then that would mean they are shorted. I don't think they are tied to ground (black) just to each other.
The ferrite choke is there to suppress noise from the switching transformer so the device gets clean DC power when charging.

Thanks,
I was trying to make a cable for a Chinese tablet that cannot be charged through it's USB port and only has a 2.5mm dc power port, it seems to be pretty picky about the cable being used, so far the Stock cable to USB-DC to wall USB charger works fine (hp touchpad charger), and a true DC brick rated 2000ma , 5v to DC port works good, I wanted an extra cable to use to charge it with my HP usb charger so I ordered this from dx.com
http://dx.com/p/usb-to-2-5mm-dc-charging-cable-2538
as always I check the polarity and voltage of the cable and it showed 5.13 volts, and center pin positive, strangely when I hooked it to the tablet I saw the battery charging , at 100% I turned brightness up and ran a 3d game, suddenly I saw the red light switch on the tablet to indicate it's charging, strange since it was hooked up to power and was already fully charged, and another test battery was around 40% and I charged to around 80% I rebooted the tablet and the battery was at 40% again!, so thinking my battery died I re-hooked up the stock cable and charged to 80% rebooted again and battery was 80% , narrowed it down to the cheap dx.com cable not supplying enough amps or some short in the cable, this is when I decided to make my own cable.
In my post above, The USB cable I was using I ended up taking apart the usb male connector and found out although the cable was decent quality copper wires.. where it was making the connection at the USB male end the connector only had little push pins puncturing through the wire (two little metal prongs), they weren't soldiered or anything so I guess it was another cheap cable .
So I searched for another cable, finally I found an older usb cable that none of my devices use anymore, this cable actually had a copper metal shield I just connected red and black, left green and white alone not connected to anything, so far it is operating like the stock cable when fully charged I can run full brightness , cpu at fullspeed, and 3d game without the charger light on the tablet going on (I assume this means the tablet is getting enough power from the dc port and doesn't need to switch to battery), I haven't had time to charge the device with the cable yet, but I'm assuming it will work like intended.
I guess they don't make cables like they used to.

hey guys you can check this site out http://techno-fix.com/ . i found my pinout searches there. there are very usefull things

MicroUsb socket broken a direct wiring fix working for old phones.

Attention do this at our own risk as it may damage our phone.
My used samsung galaxy pocket-neo was becoming impossible to charge causing me to break the adapter cables with constant wiggling and balancing acts to get it to work. I took it apart and the micro usb socket looked like an extremely difficult soldering job to replace.
The solution I am using for more than a month with no adverse effects is to cut the plug off and strip the 2 power wires at one end of an old usb cable. There are 4 different coloured wires, red, black, green and white. The green and white wires transmit data, whilst the red and black are the power lines. Red is positive, Black is negative. The sleeve of the cable has a metal mesh which is not necessary for my purposes so I electrical taped it back onto the cable.
The next step is to remove the battery of the phone: I have only done this on phones with removeable batteries. The ones I have used have three terminals; one is plus and one minus, the middle one is for a thermistor in the internal of the battery so that it doesn't overheat. Check the plus and minus with a tester to be sure and look at the way it mounts into the phone. The corresponding terminals in the phone are where I connect the wires.
Now here is the complicated part, - or negative(black) goes to the one negative copper pin in the back of the phone. The positive +(red) wire however needs to bridge the other two pins for reasons that I would like to find out. The white and green wire got taped up seperately to avoid short circuits and I replaced the battery to hold the wires firmly in place and closed the back of the phone. Plug the phone into a charger or external power pack (DC 5v) and it will work fine with no overheating, I suggest this be monitored for a while as it may vary with other hardware.
There may be better ways to do this, as far as I can tell in my case I am not actually charging the battery, instead the phone is running directly from the external power source. The strange thing is that the software(CM11) battery icon slowly discharges and after about 10 hours tells me I need to charge the battery but never turns off and when I restart it is immediately back up to full.
I have tested with a normal cable and the micro usb is still working even though it is still only working when I constantly wiggle the cable, I have cleaned it and as far as I can see its not going to ever work properly.
It would be good to know why the battery does not chargewhen using this method. I imagine it has to do with the internal workings of the phone that control the charging, discharging and battery temperature.
Making the old hardware live longer.

Replacing the micro usb is doable with a hot air gun a pair of tweezers, a clunky spring loaded solder sucker, a flux pen and two pairs of 3.5 x magnification reading glasses. You dont need any fancy rework station or microscope, assuming you have steady hands, reasonably good eyesight, and some soldering experience. I just tried this myself yesterday and fixed and Ace 3 and two S3 mini boards from my junk pile, and while it was a little tricky, it didn't require any brain surgery skills, just care, patience and some previous smd soldering experience.
Proceed as follows, mask off all of the surrounding components with kapton tape, apply lots of flux from your flux pen, then heat the plug carefully, pointing the hot air across the plug and away from the rest of the board. Grab the (hot) metal can of the USB plug with the tweezers, and gently lift it. Only remove the plug when all the solder is melted, and it feels loose, to avoid pulling off any tracks. Remove those tracks, and the phone is for the bin. Next, clear any holes that are required to mount the new plug, take care at this stage, as it is imperative that the replacement plug sits flush on the board otherwise the pins on the plug, wont touch the pads on the board, and worse still, you wont get the case back on at the end of the process.
To fit the new socket, clean the pads... no really clean them.... now make sure they are clean, and then flux them and tin them. Fit the new plug, and check that it sits flush to the board. Tack down one metal lug only on the can of the new plug. Check again that the pins are lined up, and carefully drag solder them. Check for shorts. Check again... clean the pads and check again. If you are happy, tack down the remaining three lugs, make sure they are flush and that there are no blobs of solder on the tops of them. Clean the board again. Test... Profit
Total time including additional swearing, re-cleaning... re-re-cleaning and re-fitting.. about 30 minutes and two strong coffees.
The replacement USB plugs are readily available on ebay typically around the £2 ($3) mark, but there are several different styles, and they are different, so make sure you use the correct one for your board.
Now back to your question... why does your battery not charge when you tack the wires to it... simple... it is trying its best not to explode. The USB port provides 5V, but the battery needs between 2.8 and 4.2 vots.. depending on its current state of charge, and this is what the charge controller chip within the phone provides. Anything else and the protection circuit kicks in.
I suggest if you don't fancy repairing the USB plug yourself, you get one of those cheap "universal" usb phone chargers from China, they cost about the same as the replacement USB plug, but are (marginally) less likely to blow up your battery.

itsthatidiotagain said:
Now back to your question... why does your battery not charge when you tack the wires to it... simple... it is trying its best not to explode. The USB port provides 5V, but the battery needs between 2.8 and 4.2 vots.. depending on its current state of charge, and this is what the charge controller chip within the phone provides. Anything else and the protection circuit kicks in.
I suggest if you don't fancy repairing the USB plug yourself, you get one of those cheap "universal" usb phone chargers from China, they cost about the same as the replacement USB plug, but are (marginally) less likely to blow up your battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good description of the soldering job, the samsung pocket neo is very small but I look forward to having a go at fixing it properly one day, I dont yet have a magnifying glass or solder sucker, but I want to get them. Without these tools the job would be near impossible.
Little update: the phone is charging, I have disconected it and it holds its charge nicely, the internal software just doesn't register the trickle charge it is recieving, I have loads of old chargers and new usb cables and my old second hand phones micro usb port is way too damaged to work anymore with any charger. I use it as a modem principally, so it is connected every day and providing wifi to multiple devices and has no problems with over heating. Now nearly two months have passed and it works fine. Using this method it is possible to completely remove the battery as well. The phone is running directly off the 5 volt power with no ill effects.
It would be convienient to connect it directly to a pc in usb debug mode occasionally, and this is a very good reason for eventually fixing the usb plug.:good: