Does anyone notice there's a big bug with WiFi on the G2?
I have 2 WiFi ac routers, one at home and one at the Office, an Asus RT-ac66U and a Linksys ea6700. Both capable of 1750mbps max speeds.
Internet speeds are 120/6 and 200/20.
Scenario is exactly the same for both routers;
When fresh reboot the router, G2 connects at a speed of 433Mbps.
Speedtests show results of 119/6 at home and 190/20 at the office.
Great you would say!
But here goes. Once WiFi get disconnected and reconnected, speeds go down to ~40mbps. No matter what I do!
These are N speeds, not AC
When looking at connection settings it still shows a link of 433mbps
Tested dozens of times, on both routers, so it has to be an issue with the G2.
Anyone else noticed the same??
DAMN, should have been in Q&A, mods plz move
I'm not an expert on wi-fi, but have stumbled through setting up several routers around the house. But I do not have an ac router.
Is the home router in mixed mode? Ignoring a/b/c for a moment and focusing on g and n (and implying ac), I have two wireless routers in the house. One runs N only (but both 2.4 ghz and 5 ghz) and the other runs G only. Now, my N router is capable of running in mixed mode (to handle both N and G) BUT in mixed mode, my max speed when connected in N is lower than it would be if I ran in dedicated N mode.
Most of my devices now are at least N (2.4 or 5) but I have an older printer and wii that only do G. But as mentioned above, rather than run my best router in mixed mode, I run 2 separate routers, one in N only and one in G only.
Maybe something similar might help with your ac speeds?
Really appreciate your input!
But I already tried settings like AC only etc. Doesn't make any difference.
Once connected for the second time and up to the router no more AC speeds...
Sent from my LG-D802 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Is there a way to test LAN speeds on Android? I have the same Asus router but my wan speeds are so pitiful that I wouldn't be able to tell if the phone was dropping to N speeds. If I could test speeds to my desktop across the local network I might be able to test what you are experiencing.
Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk
Is there a way to check on the phone, which band it's connecting to? I haven't found anything.
I have the same router and my issue is on reconnect. I leave my wifi on all the time. When I get home, it connects automatically the moment I pull up to the house. The problem is, the speed is severely crippled. Range is awesome, speed is bad. I have to cycle the wifi and reconnect. Once done, no more problems.
One thing I should note, I was having the same issue occasionally on my Droid RAZR after getting the ASUS. Does anyone know if they use the same wifi hardware? Maybe it's an issue with the router itself?
jasonsf said:
Is there a way to test LAN speeds on Android? I have the same Asus router but my wan speeds are so pitiful that I wouldn't be able to tell if the phone was dropping to N speeds. If I could test speeds to my desktop across the local network I might be able to test what you are experiencing.
Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
crashN2u said:
Is there a way to check on the phone, which band it's connecting to? I haven't found anything.
I have the same router and my issue is on reconnect. I leave my wifi on all the time. When I get home, it connects automatically the moment I pull up to the house. The problem is, the speed is severely crippled. Range is awesome, speed is bad. I have to cycle the wifi and reconnect. Once done, no more problems.
One thing I should note, I was having the same issue occasionally on my Droid RAZR after getting the ASUS. Does anyone know if they use the same wifi hardware? Maybe it's an issue with the router itself?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
@jasonff
Don't know about an app to test lan speeds unfortunately.
Think a google search would come up with lots of options.
@crashN2u
I leave my wifi on too all the time for now, it keeps it at full speed then.
There's no way to check which band you are connected to.
Router doesn't have an option to choose AC Only, only N +AC
And in the mean time I have tested it with 4 AC routers, Asus RT-AC66U, Netgear R6250, Linksys EA6700, D-Link 868L.
With all routers exactly the same conclusion. First time everything is great. Excellent speeds. If you never turn off WiFi it remains at high speed.
But once you turn off WiFi on the Phone and turn it back on it immediately drops to ~36-40mbps max (N Speeds).
This remains until I rebooted each router and after that full speeds again.
It must be something in drivers LG used.
There's the solution to for, I'm sure of it by now.
Well, I can see I won't be much help -- especially since the same result on 4 routers!
I am not sure if the following app supports AC, but a very helpful and free app I use is called "Wifi Analyzer". I can't post links but that is the exact name (author = farproc).
It has many useful tools/functions that you may find helpful, switchable between 2.4 and 5.0 ghz, channel scanner, etc.
Does your 2.4 ghz N and 5.0 ghz N/AC have different SSID's? From what I read, AC is 5 ghz only and N can be either 2.4 ghz or 5.0 ghz. I wonder if you are dropping from 5.0 AC to 2.4 N because the 2.4 N is being detected as "stronger signal" than the 5.0 AC at reconnect time?
I named my 2.4 ghz N SSID as "Blah" and 5.0 ghz N SSID as "Blah_5ghz" just so I know what frequency I'm on at a glance (using a widget that shows the SSID) but many routers by default will have both SSID's the same, making it less obvious what band you are connected to. I also use an app called "WIFI Prioritizer" (author Robert Botha), which will allow me to connect or re-connect in the SSID order I specify: i.e. when I get home I will connect to SSID "Blah" (2.4 ghz N because it has the longest range). Every 5 mins (you can specify), it checks to see if my SSID "Blah_5Ghz" is in range and will switch to it if it is (you can also set signal strength connect and disconnect thresholds).
Anyways, I probably can't help further but am following this thread with interest. Good luck!
Klotar said:
Well, I can see I won't be much help -- especially since the same result on 4 routers!
I am not sure if the following app supports AC, but a very helpful and free app I use is called "Wifi Analyzer". I can't post links but that is the exact name (author = farproc).
It has many useful tools/functions that you may find helpful, switchable between 2.4 and 5.0 ghz, channel scanner, etc.
Does your 2.4 ghz N and 5.0 ghz N/AC have different SSID's? From what I read, AC is 5 ghz only and N can be either 2.4 ghz or 5.0 ghz. I wonder if you are dropping from 5.0 AC to 2.4 N because the 2.4 N is being detected as "stronger signal" than the 5.0 AC at reconnect time?
I named my 2.4 ghz N SSID as "Blah" and 5.0 ghz N SSID as "Blah_5ghz" just so I know what frequency I'm on at a glance (using a widget that shows the SSID) but many routers by default will have both SSID's the same, making it less obvious what band you are connected to. I also use an app called "WIFI Prioritizer" (author Robert Botha), which will allow me to connect or re-connect in the SSID order I specify: i.e. when I get home I will connect to SSID "Blah" (2.4 ghz N because it has the longest range). Every 5 mins (you can specify), it checks to see if my SSID "Blah_5Ghz" is in range and will switch to it if it is (you can also set signal strength connect and disconnect thresholds).
Anyways, I probably can't help further but am following this thread with interest. Good luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My Phone is packed with tools like Wifi Analyser, InSISDer etc etc atm
I always separate 2.4 and 5ghz networks to be able to see exactly what's going on but thanks for the heads up :good:
From further investigation and thinking, and with your suggestion about stronger signals;
Thing is, AC routers are more or less all simultanious routers.
That combines 2.4 and 5ghz signals for higher transfer speeds.
I think in there lies the problem when drivers are not 100%.
In theory 2.4 signals are stronger then 5ghz signals and have wider range.
But in testing I made sure that I was in the same room and no more than 2 meters away from the router.
when testing it showed equal signal strength up to -20 so really strong signals.
Therefore I concluded that N on 2.4 whas equally strong as 5ghz and then again I isolated 5ghz SSID so that's not it unfortunately.
I promised to stay away but I can't resist!
Have you tried some of the more generic troubleshooting tips (on the home network), such as trying with no security or lesser security (WEP) to see if it still reconnects at the lower (N) speeds? I realize that usually that test is of course for a more basic issue than yours but maybe the G2 has trouble handling security overhead.
Some devices and routers just don't like each other (as many know), but 4 different routers...?! Gotta be the G2 side, as you've surmised. Wish I knew someone with an ac router so I could test myself. I'm debating on getting an ac router but you've got me spooked! (kidding/teasing)
Well haven't tried lower or no security.
When I have the chance (aka the wife is away and not *****ing about wifi not available ) I'll sure try that.
But I don't think that WEP will be an option because AC requires AES protection if I'm not mistaken.
But really do not be afraid to get yourself an AC router hehe.
No honestly, I've tested 4 routers with:
AC Capable:
HTC One. Goes all the way to max isp speeds. All the time, no issues
LG G2.
Not AC Capable.
IPhone 5. Max speed at 5ghz (constantly tested) is ~90-100mpbs.
HTC One X. Max speed at 5ghz (constantly tested) is ~70-90mpbs.
So even if your hardware maybe not be capable of AC speeds you still get excellent connections
Oh and for the record.
Here's my personal listing of the hardware I've tested. From best to well not so good.
1. Netgear R6250.
Excellent constant speeds. No drops whatsoever with around 6 devices connected. Excellent range!
2. Asus RT-AC66U
Shame Asus introduced a new wifi driver some time ago which doesn't perform that well. Constant speed drops.
They know about it but thusfar no solution.
When you get this one, stay on old firmware for now!
3. D-link 868L
Real looker this one. Can be put in plain sight in the room like a picture frame :silly:
Great constant speeds, but some drops here and there.
Excellent range.
4. Linksys EA6700
Linksys is sold to Belkin by Cisco.
Up to now I have never seen anything good coming from Belkin!
What a piece of crap.
With a really thin wall between router and phones coverage went down more dan half. Hell even when distance less than 2 meters away coverage was about -45.
Do not get this crap!
I wonder... the wireless N spec (not sure if also AC) calls for devices and routers to have a 'low power mode', which may or may not be enabled in routers and/or phones (e.g. GS3) by default. According to some article I read, newer routers may go into a power saving mode if it detects low traffic and supposedly ramp up when the traffic increases.
Possibly it doesn't ramp up fast enough when a new device connects and the device mistakes it for not having the highest speed (AC) capability. Might explain fast speeds after router bootup but not later. If there is any truth to that (no clue here), it might speed itself up either by testing with a larger file or seeing if the "2nd connect" condition changes while say, streaming videos from the PC to the Xbox or watching Netflix on the main TV. Certainly, either would be considered high traffic and if there is no change to the 2nd connect, well -- there goes that idea.
Is there a wifi power saving mode on the G2 like there is on the GS3? (i.e. dialing *#0011# to turn it off).
Klotar said:
I wonder... the wireless N spec (not sure if also AC) calls for devices and routers to have a 'low power mode', which may or may not be enabled in routers and/or phones (e.g. GS3) by default. According to some article I read, newer routers may go into a power saving mode if it detects low traffic and supposedly ramp up when the traffic increases.
Possibly it doesn't ramp up fast enough when a new device connects and the device mistakes it for not having the highest speed (AC) capability. Might explain fast speeds after router bootup but not later. If there is any truth to that (no clue here), it might speed itself up either by testing with a larger file or seeing if the "2nd connect" condition changes while say, streaming videos from the PC to the Xbox or watching Netflix on the main TV. Certainly, either would be considered high traffic and if there is no change to the 2nd connect, well -- there goes that idea.
Is there a wifi power saving mode on the G2 like there is on the GS3? (i.e. dialing *#0011# to turn it off).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good point!
Well, there is a setting in wifi, advanced to minimize use of wifi when screen is off. Sounds like a power save mode to me.
But, just tested it and that makes no difference.
With that setting deactivated on the G2 still at first boot AC speeds and when I switch off and on wifi I still get N speeds max.
And besides that, on the Asus router there's a setting called "Enable WMM APSD". Which stands for "Automatic Power Save Delivery".
I read up on that and the custom firmware guru RMerlin writes about that setting that especially Android devices could suffer from that setting.
So I disabled that a long time ago.
On other routers I couldn't find such setting.
But to iron that setting out I just tested it once more.
First with setting off. Still first connect AC speeds, after turn off/on back to N speed.
Then turned wifi off, enabled the setting and rebooted the router.
But this time to let the supposedly power save kick in I let my Phone idle for 15 minutes so that it surely was in deep sleep.
Then turned screen on, and again AC speeds when first connected.
After that turned wifi off, screen of for 15 minutes. Turned screen on again and once more N speed.
And link speed is always shown as 433mbps btw, which is correct.
There's just some bug in driver code by LG which doesn't work correctly.
I'm more and more convinced of that.
For now I just keep wifi on all the time so that I always get full speeds.
Batt is capable enough so no problem there
LittleH79 said:
Good point!
Well, there is a setting in wifi, advanced to minimize use of wifi when screen is off. Sounds like a power save mode to me.
But, just tested it and that makes no difference.
With that setting deactivated on the G2 still at first boot AC speeds and when I switch off and on wifi I still get N speeds max.
And besides that, on the Asus router there's a setting called "Enable WMM APSD". Which stands for "Automatic Power Save Delivery".
I read up on that and the custom firmware guru RMerlin writes about that setting that especially Android devices could suffer from that setting.
So I disabled that a long time ago.
On other routers I couldn't find such setting.
But to iron that setting out I just tested it once more.
First with setting off. Still first connect AC speeds, after turn off/on back to N speed.
Then turned wifi off, enabled the setting and rebooted the router.
But this time to let the supposedly power save kick in I let my Phone idle for 15 minutes so that it surely was in deep sleep.
Then turned screen on, and again AC speeds when first connected.
After that turned wifi off, screen of for 15 minutes. Turned screen on again and once more N speed.
And link speed is always shown as 433mbps btw, which is correct.
There's just some bug in driver code by LG which doesn't work correctly.
I'm more and more convinced of that.
For now I just keep wifi on all the time so that I always get full speeds.
Batt is capable enough so no problem there
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I found a tool to test local network speed. It uses two android devices for a p2p test or you can install a server program on your PC. I'll do some testing and see if I can reproduce what you are seeing. Here's the link: http://pzoleeblogen.wordpress.com/2013/08/12/local-network-speed-test-for-android/ and the market link: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.pzolee.android.localwifispeedtester&hl=en
And to be sure I understand, you boot your phone with wifi on, AC speeds. Turn off wifi on phone and turn it back on, N speeds. Reboot phone with wifi on, back to AC speeds. Correct?
jasonsf said:
I found a tool to test local network speed. It uses two android devices for a p2p test or you can install a server program on your PC. I'll do some testing and see if I can reproduce what you are seeing. Here's the link: http://pzoleeblogen.wordpress.com/2013/08/12/local-network-speed-test-for-android/ and the market link: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.pzolee.android.localwifispeedtester&hl=en
And to be sure I understand, you boot your phone with wifi on, AC speeds. Turn off wifi on phone and turn it back on, N speeds. Reboot phone with wifi on, back to AC speeds. Correct?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the app!
Gonna test this for sure since I also have a HTC One lying around which is also AC capable
Not 100% corect.
I can do with phone what I want until wifi gets turned off.
Then a reboot of the router is required to get AC speed back.
No need to reboot the phone.
Quite busy atm so don't have enough time I would like to be testing
LittleH79 said:
Thanks for the app!
Gonna test this for sure since I also have a HTC One lying around which is also AC capable
Not 100% corect.
I can do with phone what I want until wifi gets turned off.
Then a reboot of the router is required to get AC speed back.
No need to reboot the phone.
Quite busy atm so don't have enough time I would like to be testing
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Between my wife on her laptop, my son on his Chromebook and my daughter streaming Netflix on our Roku, I hardly ever have a chance to reboot the router without someone complaining
Since I haven't rebooted my router in days, from what you are saying I shouldn't see anything above N speeds until I reboot the router. Do you actually have to turn off wifi on the phone to have it drop from AC to N or is it enough to leave the range of the wifi and then come back? And does if turning it off is required, do I have to be connected to the router at the time I turn phone wifi off?
I'll try testing this weekend.
jasonsf said:
Between my wife on her laptop, my son on his Chromebook and my daughter streaming Netflix on our Roku, I hardly ever have a chance to reboot the router without someone complaining
Since I haven't rebooted my router in days, from what you are saying I shouldn't see anything above N speeds until I reboot the router. Do you actually have to turn off wifi on the phone to have it drop from AC to N or is it enough to leave the range of the wifi and then come back? And does if turning it off is required, do I have to be connected to the router at the time I turn phone wifi off?
I'll try testing this weekend.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Going out of range isn't a problem as long as you don't have an app or setting on in wifi, advanced to switch off wifi.
As long as wifi isn't turned off I can go everywhere, in&out of range, other routers connect but speeds remain AC, everywhere on every router.
I can reproduce everytime that when I turn off wifi on the phone and back on from then on I only get ~36-40mbps max.
It's like the phone thinks that's max capable speed altough wifi link speed is again shown as 433mbps.
If I have switched off wifi on the phone and back on, on all 4 AC routers I tested all needed a router reboot to gain full AC speeds again.
Oh and maybe a small tip, I always say to the misses at home that there's a small problem with connection so a quick reboot is required.
Up to now that still works
LittleH79 said:
Going out of range isn't a problem as long as you don't have an app or setting on in wifi, advanced to switch off wifi.
As long as wifi isn't turned off I can go everywhere, in&out of range, other routers connect but speeds remain AC, everywhere on every router.
I can reproduce everytime that when I turn off wifi on the phone and back on from then on I only get ~36-40mbps max.
It's like the phone thinks that's max capable speed altough wifi link speed is again shown as 433mbps.
If I have switched off wifi on the phone and back on, on all 4 AC routers I tested all needed a router reboot to gain full AC speeds again.
Oh and maybe a small tip, I always say to the misses at home that there's a small problem with connection so a quick reboot is required.
Up to now that still works
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just did a few tests from my phone to my pc with 100MB data sets. I got between 200 and 260 Mbit/s down both before and after toggling my phone's wifi off and on. Didn't seem to make a difference. I got about 6Mbit up.
So, I didn't seem to experience the problem you have. But try repeating what I've done with this local network app. Maybe you won't have the issue with it that you are seeing on your WAN connection.
jasonsf said:
I just did a few tests from my phone to my pc with 100MB data sets. I got between 200 and 260 Mbit/s down both before and after toggling my phone's wifi off and on. Didn't seem to make a difference. I got about 6Mbit up.
So, I didn't seem to experience the problem you have. But try repeating what I've done with this local network app. Maybe you won't have the issue with it that you are seeing on your WAN connection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What router or AP do you use?
/s
shaglord said:
What router or AP do you use?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Asus RT-AC66U
jasonsf said:
Asus RT-AC66U
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow and do you really see real transfer rates of 25-30 MB/s to your G2?
I'm using a Qualcomm Atheros based AC-router and my G2 (running latest CM11) hardly goes over 10 Mbit ~ 1,5 MB/s. Weak I know. (Confirmed 433 Mbit link using a wifi app.)
Maybe I need a broadcom-router like yours to see some real AC-speeds.
Thanks for the reply. Take care
/s
how to do it on our note 3.
is it supported?
I dont think u can adjust it, it is rather a configuration from the AP/Wireless Router point of view.
careful where you bond the channels, it is worthless in 2.4ghz (.11n) and only degrades the quality due to the higher interference from co-channels.
channel bonding only makes sense in 5ghz, and 11ac offer a lot more bonding compared to 11n, btw, which one are you using?
PlutoDelic said:
I dont think u can adjust it, it is rather a configuration from the AP/Wireless Router point of view.
careful where you bond the channels, it is worthless in 2.4ghz (.11n) and only degrades the quality due to the higher interference from co-channels.
channel bonding only makes sense in 5ghz, and 11ac offer a lot more bonding compared to 11n, btw, which one are you using?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
not using any at moment.
friend has a tab3 and I looked up the specs and saw this wifi bonding was one of it's features.
so just wondered if it was a unit specific feature or maybe it is a universal feature?
I understood it to be able to connect to 2 or more wifi's and use the extra capacity,maybe I'm mistaken?
MystaMagoo said:
not using any at moment.
friend has a tab3 and I looked up the specs and saw this wifi bonding was one of it's features.
so just wondered if it was a unit specific feature or maybe it is a universal feature?
I understood it to be able to connect to 2 or more wifi's and use the extra capacity,maybe I'm mistaken?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Naah, on wifi, for an AP to radiate signals, it needs to reserve a channel first, 2.4ghz has only 3 separate channels, where as 5ghz has around 30something, if not even more.
Now a single channel, is 20mhz, thats the band-width it uses in the WiFi signal to send and receive, new technology offers bonding two channels together, so it's 20 + 20 hz, meaning more band-width to transmit data, therefore more throughput (dont mix band-width with bandwidth, the one with the dash is literary in its meaning and is more physics)
The Tab 3 has (maybe) two antennas inside, meaning it can have two signals to the router, featuring a more robust signal, which does not necessarily increase bandwidth, but it increases the reliability of the bandwidth.
Somewhat of an odd issue with Wi-FI
First the phone is a 100% stock (unrooted) Sprint issued Galaxy S5.
Access point is a Cisco 1142 in Autonomous mode running 802.11n (2.4 & 5ghz with a 40Mhz extended channel in the 5Ghz band). Both IPv4 and IPv6 (utilizing auto configure) are on my network.
Three laptops report up to 300Mb/s connectivity and work flawlessly
Three iPhones work without any issues
Two iPads (Wi-Fi only) also work without issue
Galaxy S3 work without issue
HTC EVO work without issue
The Galaxy S5 connects and works fine for a random period of time, seems to be typically between 1 and 3 hrs and then simply stops communicating, I've tried a static (IPv4) address but to no avail. Sometimes I'll find that only the IPv4 stops working but IPv6 continues to work or vis versa.
One thing I did note was the S5 never reports a speed higher than 144Mb/s regardless of the signal strength. I haven't tried disabling the extended channel on the 5Ghz band, maybe the S5 has a problem with that?
Lastly connecting to an 802.11g AP seems to work reliably.
Any thoughts/suggestions? I'm not opposed to rooting the phone if there is a known issue that is solved by modified code.
-TL
Tried disabling Smart Network Switch in WiFi settings?
Should have mentioned that -
Under Wi-Fi advanced
Network notification - unchecked
passpoint - checked
sort by - signal strength
keep wi-fi on during sleep - always
always allow scanning - unchecked
smart network switch - unchecked
Wi-Fi timer - all times unchecked
-TL
The access point "had" two SSIDs being announced, I took one off and the stability problems seem to have gone away, now to figure out if I'm announcing the second SSID incorrectly or something else is going on.
-TL
Time_Lord said:
The access point "had" two SSIDs being announced, I took one off and the stability problems seem to have gone away, now to figure out if I'm announcing the second SSID incorrectly or something else is going on.
-TL
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is it a dual band router?
Sent from my Tw5ted SM-G900A using Tapatalk
Is it a dual band router?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's a Cisco 1142 AP (1140 series) in Autonomous mode, 2.4/5Ghz 802.11n, Per Cisco's glossy - "The 1140 Series is a dual-band, 802.11n access point with integrated antennas."
Time_Lord said:
It's a Cisco 1142 AP (1140 series) in Autonomous mode, 2.4/5Ghz 802.11n, Per Cisco's glossy - "The 1140 Series is a dual-band, 802.11n access point with integrated antennas."
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You might have the 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz band named the same then.
Sent from my Tw5ted SM-G900A using Tapatalk
You saying I should or should not have the band's named the same?
Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk
You might have the 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz band named the same then.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You might be onto something, based upon what I've found and my understanding of Wi-Fi there should be no issue with putting the same SSID on both radios; however I've found that the S5 seems to be switching back and forth a lot and is failing whenever its on the 5Ghz radio. I have since turned off the 5Ghz radio (of course that reduces my throughput to 144Mb/s on Wi-Fi vs 300 but I doubt I'll see a difference).
I've seen some various comments about 5Ghz not working properly for some, I don't know if this is a real issue or not.
Also keep in mind my 5Ghz radio was set for a double wide channel (40Mhz vs. the small 20Ghz) enabling 300Mb/s.
-TL
Time_Lord said:
You might be onto something, based upon what I've found and my understanding of Wi-Fi there should be no issue with putting the same SSID on both radios; however I've found that the S5 seems to be switching back and forth a lot and is failing whenever its on the 5Ghz radio. I have since turned off the 5Ghz radio (of course that reduces my throughput to 144Mb/s on Wi-Fi vs 300 but I doubt I'll see a difference).
I've seen some various comments about 5Ghz not working properly for some, I don't know if this is a real issue or not.
Also keep in mind my 5Ghz radio was set for a double wide channel (40Mhz vs. the small 20Ghz) enabling 300Mb/s.
-TL
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There's no issue until you have a device(such as the s5) that sees both bands, people do this with public WiFi as well, they put up a malicious hotspot with the same name as the public one. I would give your 5g band a different name that's what I do, its just said for 2.4 and ssid-5G for the 5.
Sent from my Tw5ted SM-G900A using Tapatalk
I was wondering, is there a way to have the phone prefer one SSID over another?
The reason I ask is my home network has two bands, 5ghz for Wireless AC and 2.4ghz that goes up to Wireless-N but has much greater range. As such, I'd like both to be saved but the phone to fall over to the 5ghz when it's in range, then back to the 2.4ghz when it's not (like when I'm at the outskirts of my property). Any way to achieve this? 3rd party app even, perhaps?
I'm in to see if a solution for this is found. I have the exact same type of set-up and would like to control which band I connect to. I'll try working with tasker to see if I can figure anything out.
Look in the play store. There are some apps that help with this. Search for "WiFi Roaming" and try a few different apps.
You might be able to do this with Tasker, it has a "WiFi Connected" and "WiFi Near" profile...
I have both of my networks saved as well and my phone always connects to the 2.4 GHz first, because it is always the first one the phone sees. Truth be told, I see no reason why you would even need/want to use the 5 GHz band on your phone. Odds are you are not going to tap out the 2.4 GHz bandwidth. Maybe when doing large local network file transfers, but even then if you aren't close to the router, it probably won't make a difference either way. Interference could certainly be a factor depending on network congestion and/or other devices such as a microwave, but I have had no noticeable issues at my rural home. When I lived at an apartment complex with over 50 networks within range, the 2.4 GHz band was TERRIBLE to use - only used the 5 GHz there.
So like everyone else I have the 5GHz wifi problem. If I'm not in the same room as the router you can forget using 5GHz. So I found the link to the problem. I just don't know how to solve it. I connected to the 5GHz in a trouble location while having mobile data and Bluetooth turned on. Internet speeds were terrible to the point the speed test would barely run. I turned Bluetooth off, and the speed test are right on par with my old phone, and 5GHz is working fine while Bluetooth is off.
5Ghz is not meant for long range though, 2.4Ghz takes care of that..
You should be able to obtain a signal within around 30feet, potentially more, but it'll drop off at that point.
2.4 carries a lot better..
Could it be to do with the channels that the phone may be using for WiFi??
Turn off all WiFi devices and Bluetooth in the room and see how the test goes.
Very strange.
I am a bit confused as to why people are reporting needing to turn BT off to operate 5GHZ Wifi. BT operates in the 2.4xx space. If you are saying turning it off resolves your problem this points to either a greater hardware/software issue or that you are not operating in 5Ghz at all.
I understand how 2.4 and 5 work as far as range and bandwidth goes. I tested this theory in the same spot my old phone would get 100mbps down (what I pay for) while connected to 5Ghz Wifi. The OnePlus 8 Pro while connected to 5Ghz in the same spot with Bluetooth enabled would cause the phones speed to drop to around 5mbps down and sometimes to the point I get nothing and losing connection. Now if I repeat the same scenario but this time I disable Bluetooth the connection is stable and speeds are 90-100mbps down. I repeated this multiple times sitting in the same location. Yes I understand that BT uses 2.4Ghz. I'm not saying that you need to turn BT off for 5Hhz Wifi to function. What I am saying is some how on this phone, and reported by others, the 5Ghz Wifi on this phone does not function properly. There have been zero solutions or reasons why that I am aware of. My post was pointing to a possible reason why and the fact that it is a hardware/software problem and maybe the right person could look into. I have no reason why the BT being on and off affects the 5Ghz Wifi on this phone and not the 2.4Ghz but it does. And my old phone was a $300 Samsung A50 that I was testing this phone against in my post. I tried to find what channels the phone uses for WiFi but was unsuccessful. If you find the channel lost I would be more than happy to switch channels and see.
dladz said:
5Ghz is not meant for long range though, 2.4Ghz takes care of that..
You should be able to obtain a signal within around 30feet, potentially more, but it'll drop off at that point.
2.4 carries a lot better..
Could it be to do with the channels that the phone may be using for WiFi??
Turn off all WiFi devices and Bluetooth in the room and see how the test goes.
Very strange.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It ends up it is an issue with the channel. Before I bought the phone I had manually set my router to channel 153 because auto kept putting me on the same channel as my neighbor. The OnePlus will connect to channels 149 and 153 but isn't really functional. I had to select one of the UNII-1 Channels. Once I did that 5Ghz worked and is functional and stable. The sad part is the reception isn't nearly as good as my $300 Samsung. Maybe they'll improve that if they can. I'm still bewildered why turning off Bluetooth allowed channel 153 to work.
travle said:
It ends up it is an issue with the channel. Before I bought the phone I had manually set my router to channel 153 because auto kept putting me on the same channel as my neighbor. The OnePlus will connect to channels 149 and 153 but isn't really functional. I had to select one of the UNII-1 Channels. Once I did that 5Ghz worked and is functional and stable. The sad part is the reception isn't nearly as good as my $300 Samsung. Maybe they'll improve that if they can. I'm still bewildered why turning off Bluetooth allowed channel 153 to work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Turn on auto channel on your router. You're going to have issues unless your entire network and devices are moderated perfectly.
Auto does the job