After behaving normally for months, my Zeblaze Blitz (LEM3) didn't start charging when I snapped it into the charging clip. The problem turned out to be with the charging pads in the watch-back, and is probably generic to any watch that has this style charging system, so consider this if your watch is not that old (i.e. not a worn our battery) and it stops charging.
One of the pads is leaking moisture/sweat to the inside, where it corroded the spring-loaded pin, which became stuck in the compressed position and stopped conducting as well. See attached pictures.
After cleaning with a cotton swab and alcohol, the watch resumed charging normally for a few weeks, until the pin corroded again. This time cleaning the pin didn't help, perhaps because too much of the gold plating has flaked off the pad and it's no longer conductive. Again, see pictures.
Followup:
Charging OK again. The goldish charge pad plating apparently doesn't matter -- even where it has worn off, continuity with the internal pin is OK. But after the second cleaning, that pin wasn't rebounding quite as high as the other pins (0.5mm shorter). Additional alcohol and working the pin down/up with tweezers, back to full height.
that happened to me too...
what firmware do you use?
Related
DISCLAIMER​What follows is a modification I did on a non genuine (apparently) HTC AC charger with the european plug, bought from ebay. It includes desoldering and soldering so some experience is needed. For whatever reason, XDA forum and I, cannot be held responsibles for any kind of damage done to your mobile phone or charging equipment. Proceed at your own risk.
So that's the deal, I bought a DHD last month but it came with a UK charger. Using an adaptor made the whole thing really huge and flimsy, so I ordered a european charger from ebay. The thing is that when Im using the UK, Battery Widget Pro reports "AC charging" (800mA max) but on the ebay one it reports "USB charging" (380mA max).
I read this thread the other day and I thought why not give it a shot on this charger. After all, its cheap and I wont have to mess up with wires and USB extensions. Apparently, you have to short the Data wires together and leave them floating.
Step 1) Open the case
This is somewhat difficult. The case does not have any kind of screw so its glued down. In order to open the case without "severe" (cosmetic) damage I used a small vice. Just squeeze gently the upper part of the charger on both sides and you should hear a *clac*. After that using a bit of force and a flat screwdriver, you can open it.
Step 2) Remove the resistors on the Data+ contact
In order to create a dummy USB connection, Data contacts had to be adjusted according to USB specifications. So Data- was grounded and Data+ had a voltage of around 2.1V. Firstly, remove the resistors. Use a desoldering tool, a pump, a pair of pliers, whatever.
Step 3) Remove the PCB trace connecting Data- to ground
This is a bit tricky. As I mentioned before, the Data- is grounded. You must remove the pcb trace. I used a small flat screwdriver used on clockwork repairs to scratch the trace. You have to be patient and careful but it does the trick.
Step 4) Short the Data contacts and close the casing
Thats easy. Just a bit of solder between the middle USB pins (on the pcb side of course). After that close the casing, applying a bit of super glue on the rim. (sorry I didnt take a picture of this )
Thats it! You're done. What we've accomplished you say? Well, on USB charging my phone reported max 380mA. With this mod, it can reach 540mA! Its still not 800mA but its a gain nontheless. The charger is just warm. If it gets burned, I wont care much. As I said, its cheap.
(this is a report of 445mA, I will change it with a better one as soon as I have my phones battery lower )
Hi
I have a problem with the device or charger I do not know
First of all my charger charge on one side only if I flip it stop charging (video is added)
And secondly the phone is charging really slowly and not show "fast charging" only "charging"
i test with Ampere and i get very low mA (picture added)
i tried lg g5 charger but again the charge is slow and show "charging" only but it's charge in Both sides
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hHc4kw8j4_M
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4xRpqUfQLyoYTZLR3lpQkJVcEU
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4xRpqUfQLyoTjdQengtd0dxYlE
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4xRpqUfQLyoM3RnQnZ0cEhJX0E
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4xRpqUfQLyoUEtDenFlV1c2bVk
thnx and hope for help
My guess is a gummed up port. Use a magnifying glass and bright light to inspect USB port for debris, corrosion, or damaged pins on both sides of connector. You may also notice some pins less shiny than others. They're dirty. Or take pics of the ports with a good camera and zoom in. Do the same for the unplugged cable. Clean by turning off the phone, dipping toothpick in isopropyl alcohol and wiping pins with toothpick. Allow a few minutes for evaporation and give it a try.
You could do a RMA
If it's charging on both sides with one cable and not the other, it's probably the cable. I recently had this issue of slow charging on my wife's phone and found the best way to solve it is with amphere and grabbing all the micro USB cables in the house. I ran amphere, and plugged each cable in and let it test then used the one with the best draw. Ironically the one with her phone (LG g3) was among the slowest at about 200.. And the one for her Bluetooth earpiece came in at the highest at just over 2000! I'm guessing it was a defective cable cause we had previously rarely used the one that came with her box cause she had the Galaxy s4 cable still as it was like almost 3 feet long! The Bluetooth one is alot shorter but charges so much faster she just leaves it be for a bit and can charge it fully in alot less time. Difference is a couple hours versus overnight. Give it a try with whatever ones you can find around the house!
Attention do this at our own risk as it may damage our phone.
My used samsung galaxy pocket-neo was becoming impossible to charge causing me to break the adapter cables with constant wiggling and balancing acts to get it to work. I took it apart and the micro usb socket looked like an extremely difficult soldering job to replace.
The solution I am using for more than a month with no adverse effects is to cut the plug off and strip the 2 power wires at one end of an old usb cable. There are 4 different coloured wires, red, black, green and white. The green and white wires transmit data, whilst the red and black are the power lines. Red is positive, Black is negative. The sleeve of the cable has a metal mesh which is not necessary for my purposes so I electrical taped it back onto the cable.
The next step is to remove the battery of the phone: I have only done this on phones with removeable batteries. The ones I have used have three terminals; one is plus and one minus, the middle one is for a thermistor in the internal of the battery so that it doesn't overheat. Check the plus and minus with a tester to be sure and look at the way it mounts into the phone. The corresponding terminals in the phone are where I connect the wires.
Now here is the complicated part, - or negative(black) goes to the one negative copper pin in the back of the phone. The positive +(red) wire however needs to bridge the other two pins for reasons that I would like to find out. The white and green wire got taped up seperately to avoid short circuits and I replaced the battery to hold the wires firmly in place and closed the back of the phone. Plug the phone into a charger or external power pack (DC 5v) and it will work fine with no overheating, I suggest this be monitored for a while as it may vary with other hardware.
There may be better ways to do this, as far as I can tell in my case I am not actually charging the battery, instead the phone is running directly from the external power source. The strange thing is that the software(CM11) battery icon slowly discharges and after about 10 hours tells me I need to charge the battery but never turns off and when I restart it is immediately back up to full.
I have tested with a normal cable and the micro usb is still working even though it is still only working when I constantly wiggle the cable, I have cleaned it and as far as I can see its not going to ever work properly.
It would be good to know why the battery does not chargewhen using this method. I imagine it has to do with the internal workings of the phone that control the charging, discharging and battery temperature.
Making the old hardware live longer.
Replacing the micro usb is doable with a hot air gun a pair of tweezers, a clunky spring loaded solder sucker, a flux pen and two pairs of 3.5 x magnification reading glasses. You dont need any fancy rework station or microscope, assuming you have steady hands, reasonably good eyesight, and some soldering experience. I just tried this myself yesterday and fixed and Ace 3 and two S3 mini boards from my junk pile, and while it was a little tricky, it didn't require any brain surgery skills, just care, patience and some previous smd soldering experience.
Proceed as follows, mask off all of the surrounding components with kapton tape, apply lots of flux from your flux pen, then heat the plug carefully, pointing the hot air across the plug and away from the rest of the board. Grab the (hot) metal can of the USB plug with the tweezers, and gently lift it. Only remove the plug when all the solder is melted, and it feels loose, to avoid pulling off any tracks. Remove those tracks, and the phone is for the bin. Next, clear any holes that are required to mount the new plug, take care at this stage, as it is imperative that the replacement plug sits flush on the board otherwise the pins on the plug, wont touch the pads on the board, and worse still, you wont get the case back on at the end of the process.
To fit the new socket, clean the pads... no really clean them.... now make sure they are clean, and then flux them and tin them. Fit the new plug, and check that it sits flush to the board. Tack down one metal lug only on the can of the new plug. Check again that the pins are lined up, and carefully drag solder them. Check for shorts. Check again... clean the pads and check again. If you are happy, tack down the remaining three lugs, make sure they are flush and that there are no blobs of solder on the tops of them. Clean the board again. Test... Profit
Total time including additional swearing, re-cleaning... re-re-cleaning and re-fitting.. about 30 minutes and two strong coffees.
The replacement USB plugs are readily available on ebay typically around the £2 ($3) mark, but there are several different styles, and they are different, so make sure you use the correct one for your board.
Now back to your question... why does your battery not charge when you tack the wires to it... simple... it is trying its best not to explode. The USB port provides 5V, but the battery needs between 2.8 and 4.2 vots.. depending on its current state of charge, and this is what the charge controller chip within the phone provides. Anything else and the protection circuit kicks in.
I suggest if you don't fancy repairing the USB plug yourself, you get one of those cheap "universal" usb phone chargers from China, they cost about the same as the replacement USB plug, but are (marginally) less likely to blow up your battery.
itsthatidiotagain said:
Now back to your question... why does your battery not charge when you tack the wires to it... simple... it is trying its best not to explode. The USB port provides 5V, but the battery needs between 2.8 and 4.2 vots.. depending on its current state of charge, and this is what the charge controller chip within the phone provides. Anything else and the protection circuit kicks in.
I suggest if you don't fancy repairing the USB plug yourself, you get one of those cheap "universal" usb phone chargers from China, they cost about the same as the replacement USB plug, but are (marginally) less likely to blow up your battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good description of the soldering job, the samsung pocket neo is very small but I look forward to having a go at fixing it properly one day, I dont yet have a magnifying glass or solder sucker, but I want to get them. Without these tools the job would be near impossible.
Little update: the phone is charging, I have disconected it and it holds its charge nicely, the internal software just doesn't register the trickle charge it is recieving, I have loads of old chargers and new usb cables and my old second hand phones micro usb port is way too damaged to work anymore with any charger. I use it as a modem principally, so it is connected every day and providing wifi to multiple devices and has no problems with over heating. Now nearly two months have passed and it works fine. Using this method it is possible to completely remove the battery as well. The phone is running directly off the 5 volt power with no ill effects.
It would be convienient to connect it directly to a pc in usb debug mode occasionally, and this is a very good reason for eventually fixing the usb plug.:good:
So last night like an idiot I spilled a can of soda on the table my phone was sitting on. The soda splashed just a tiny bit onto the bottom of my phone screen, only a drop or two.
Ever since I keep randomly getting moisture detected, when I doesn't detect moisture it displays funny behaviour also randomly. After unplugging charger for instance it will there and just loop the doo doo sound it makes when plugging in the charger until I turn it off and reboot. Also detects my charger that wasn't detected as a fast charger before as a fast charger, again randomly goes back and forth between regular and fast charge mode.
Obviously got some into the port and left sticky residue behind even if its already dry.
How can I get this out, is rubbing alcohol safe to try to resolve it?
Put a little isopropyl alcohol and clean it with a thin piece of a cloth.
try cleaning it with tooth brush and 90%+ alcohol it should solve the problem
The residue of the soda is causing this.
Rinse the port with some water...
The idea was to do wireless charging for the clock. For the base took the Chinese charge from the Samsung watch, bought in Ali. The accessories for the receiving part were purchased at the nearest radio equipment store, the circuit there was the deformity of a simple coil, a diode, a zener diode and a capacitor, in total.
On the test launch "on the forehead" the circuit did not work, because charging the Samsung clock received feedback, which obviously I could not provide (I do not have enough knowledge for this). Good. We remove the "guts" from the docking station, and instead of the usual scheme we put the card from the universal wireless charging (also bought from China), only solder the transmitter coil from the station. The feedback from the docking station was realized simply at the on / off level, because of the reed switch (in the hours set by the magnet) that the charging will not work at idle, when there were no clocks, turned on the clock, switched off, turned off.
The receiver decided to connect not directly to the BMS battery, although I really wanted it, everything is available, take it and solder it. But with a high degree of probability, the charge indicator will not be excluded, which is not very good. Therefore, the eyes are afraid, and the hands are made, it is useful to disassemble the clock that will fall on the contacts of the power connector. In fact, everything turned out not so scary, you just need to remove the battery and carefully remove the black plastic frame that clings to both sides of the dog on the body. Very gently bend it to the side, trying not to tear off the loop of the pulse counter and the wire of the vibro and the microphone. Completely remove this is not necessary, it is enough just to raise, and here they have power contacts. We solder the wires and collect everything back.
Link to the video and photos can not post, the forum does not allow, because I do not have 10 messages. Sorry. I'll try that photo show 4pda.ru/forum/index.php?showtopic=775044&st=1420#entry72962124