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I'm a video editor and have been shooting and editing video professionally for the past 7 years. I don't work for Samsung, Sprint, or any affiliated companies.
The camcorder lags in low light because the shutter rate of the camera has to slow down in order to capture the image. The shutter rate is how many times the shutter has to open and close in order to take in light to make an image. On a nice sunny day outdoors, the light sensor can easily take in the light. Hence, you get a high shutter rate. Sometimes up to 1/5000 depending on the camera.
When you're shooting in low light situations, the sensor has to be open long enough in order to take in enough light to make an image. Thus, the shutter rate decreases to about 1/10 or so. When the shutter rate decreases, your camera can make a nice low light picture... but you get blur, grain, and what looks like a slower frame rate.
So, this camcorder "lag" you speak of in low light is NORMAL. It's inherent to all video cameras in low light. If you want a better image... get some lights!
If the low light performance on the camcorder was better with a different build, like in DI18, they probably locked the shutter rate at about 1/30 in order to keep a good framerate, but the low light performance wouldn't be as good as you have now.
TL/DR: It's normal. They just reduced the shutter speed so you can get a BETTER image in low light. Want a better image? Film in better lighting!
Edit: What Samsung should do to fix this is to lock the shutter rate at about 1/30. You won't get a good low light image, but the motion will be consistent. Seems to me you guys want good motion and not a good image. You can't have both in low light situations. You have to choose one or the other.
Thanks for your expert advice.....but we'll wait to hear back from someone that actually writes code
DangerZone1223 said:
I'm a video editor and have been shooting and editing video professionally for the past 7 years. I don't work for Samsung, Sprint, or any affiliated companies.
The camcorder lags in low light because the shutter rate of the camera has to slow down in order to capture the image. The shutter rate is how many times the shutter has to open and close in order to take in light to make an image. On a nice sunny day outdoors, the light sensor can easily take in the light. Hence, you get a high shutter rate. Sometimes up to 1/5000 depending on the camera.
When you're shooting in low light situations, the sensor has to be open long enough in order to take in enough light to make an image. Thus, the shutter rate decreases to about 1/10 or so. When the shutter rate decreases, your camera can make a nice low light picture... but you get blur, grain, and what looks like a slower frame rate.
So, this camcorder "lag" you speak of in low light is NORMAL. It's inherent to all video cameras in low light. If you want a better image... get some lights!
If the low light performance on the camcorder was better with a different build, like in DI18, they probably locked the shutter rate at about 1/30 in order to keep a good framerate, but the low light performance wouldn't be as good as you have now.
TL/DR: It's normal. They just reduced the shutter speed so you can get a BETTER image in low light. Want a better image? Film in better lighting!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wrong. You failed to understand the issue. This eb13 has either flawed drivers or the wrong ones. The dk28 froyo beta works flawlessly. I personally tested both builds. This is a programmers error that should be patched soon. When the patch is given, it should work as good as eclair or dk28.
DangerZone1223 said:
I'm a video editor and have been shooting and editing video professionally for the past 7 years. I don't work for Samsung, Sprint, or any affiliated companies.
The camcorder lags in low light because the shutter rate of the camera has to slow down in order to capture the image. The shutter rate is how many times the shutter has to open and close in order to take in light to make an image. On a nice sunny day outdoors, the light sensor can easily take in the light. Hence, you get a high shutter rate. Sometimes up to 1/5000 depending on the camera.
When you're shooting in low light situations, the sensor has to be open long enough in order to take in enough light to make an image. Thus, the shutter rate decreases to about 1/10 or so. When the shutter rate decreases, your camera can make a nice low light picture... but you get blur, grain, and what looks like a slower frame rate.
So, this camcorder "lag" you speak of in low light is NORMAL. It's inherent to all video cameras in low light. If you want a better image... get some lights!
If the low light performance on the camcorder was better with a different build, like in DI18, they probably locked the shutter rate at about 1/30 in order to keep a good framerate, but the low light performance wouldn't be as good as you have now.
TL/DR: It's normal. They just reduced the shutter speed so you can get a BETTER image in low light. Want a better image? Film in better lighting!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It appears that on the older builds the camera gained up to deal with lower light situations. On the current build it slows the frame rate (not the shutter rate) even normal indoor lighting. You shouldn't do that with video. This would be fine on a still camera but totally unacceptable in video, even amateur video taken with a cell phone.
BTW, I'm a broadcast video engineer by trade.
abduljaffar said:
Wrong. You failed to understand the issue. This eb13 has either flawed drivers or the wrong ones. The dk28 froyo beta works flawlessly. I personally tested both builds. This is a programmers error that should be patched soon. When the patch is given, it should work as good as eclair or dk28.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here's the problem: You didn't say what the problem is. You just said "it doesn't work". What doesn't work? Please accurately explain and DETAIL the problem with the camcorder in EB13.
abduljaffar said:
Wrong. You failed to understand the issue. This eb13 has either flawed drivers or the wrong ones. The dk28 froyo beta works flawlessly. I personally tested both builds. This is a programmers error that should be patched soon. When the patch is given, it should work as good as eclair or dk28.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Theres nothing wrong about what he said. He said that the programmers did it. They locked the shutter rate in DI18, to prevent lag. It just causes a lower quality video. The videos in low light were darker in DI18, but faster. Which is what he is saying.
poit said:
It appears that on the older builds the camera gained up to deal with lower light situations. On the current build it slows the frame rate (not the shutter rate) even normal indoor lighting. You shouldn't do that with video. This would be fine on a still camera but totally unacceptable in video, even amateur video taken with a cell phone.
BTW, I'm a broadcast video engineer by trade.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The shutter rate slows down the GOP, but the frame rate remains constant.
It's not "normal". If you're really a video editor, you'd know that. Being able to explain an effect doesn't make it "normal".
That's like saying "I can explain your cancer. Cancer is just when cells mutate and crowd out other cells. It happens to a lot of people. It's perfectly normal!"
Phone sensors are smaller and therefore not as sensitive to light as sensors in professional or even semi-professional cameras. (Larger sensors can capture more light; just the laws of physics.) So image quality on phones is always a compromise.
However, the solution to this lack of light-gathering ability should not be to hold the shutter open for such a long time that it ruins the frame rate. That's cutting off your nose to spite your face. And no one should accept it.
I think we are all fine with a little graininess in the artificially boosted low-light images from our Epic camcorders as long as it means we have a stable frame rate. This is the way every other low-end camera works and it's the way this phone used to work, and should still work.
DangerZone1223 said:
Here's the problem: You didn't say what the problem is. You just said "it doesn't work". What doesn't work? Please accurately explain and DETAIL the problem with the camcorder in EB13.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Fine, I figure everyone is aware of the bug. Go to a very dark room and launch the camcorder. Maybe turn on the tv so that's the only light source. Now pan around the room. You see that god awful blur? That's because the camera is barely pushing 5 fps. Compare that to eclair or dk28, in which keeps a steady healthy 30 fps with absolutely no frame drops.
Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk
badasscat said:
It's not "normal". If you're really a video editor, you'd know that. Being able to explain an effect doesn't make it "normal".
That's like saying "I can explain your cancer. Cancer is just when cells mutate and crowd out other cells. It happens to a lot of people. It's perfectly normal!"
Phone sensors are smaller and therefore not as sensitive to light as sensors in professional or even semi-professional cameras. (Larger sensors can capture more light; just the laws of physics.) So image quality on phones is always a compromise.
However, the solution to this lack of light-gathering ability should not be to hold the shutter open for such a long time that it ruins the frame rate. That's cutting off your nose to spite your face. And no one should accept it.
I think we are all fine with a little graininess in the artificially boosted low-light images from our Epic camcorders as long as it means we have a stable frame rate. This is the way every other low-end camera works and it's the way this phone used to work, and should still work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
correct. Being a pro photographer should hint him that its not normal. But we ask make mistakes. Just like samsung or sprint made resulting in what we are experiencing. Btw, sprint acknowledges the camera bug aswell.
It would be nice if they could just make options like the gain user adjustable so that we could tailer that setting to whatever lighting environment we're in....like the iso on a still cam.
I know that before when I had DK28, my videos would not capture past 3 seconds, I would get a message saying Recording Failed. With the new build this doesnt happen.
abduljaffar said:
Fine, I figure everyone is aware of the bug. Go to a very dark room and launch the camcorder. Maybe turn on the tv so that's the only light source. Now pan around the room. You see that god awful blur? That's because the camera is barely pushing 5 fps. Compare that to eclair or dk28, in which keeps a steady healthy 30 fps with absolutely no frame drops.
Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Re-read my first post, sir, and you'll get your answer.
jonesy827 said:
I know that before when I had DK28, my videos would not capture past 3 seconds, I would get a message saying Recording Failed. With the new build this doesnt happen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How long do your recordings last now? Mine fail around 2 minutes, using a class 6 sd card. Never happened before.
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA App
jonesy827 said:
I know that before when I had DK28, my videos would not capture past 3 seconds, I would get a message saying Recording Failed. With the new build this doesnt happen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There's an option to free record and to limit for MMS. However, I've had recording fail a few times on DK28 when I was on free record. I figured I had too many programs running in the background.
I've recorded a few times at varying lengths in EB13 and haven't had any problems so far.
The point is, something that worked fine before, (smooth video recording indoors) doesn't work now. It's not normal, anyone who has seen it can tell it's not normal.
badasscat said:
It's not "normal". If you're really a video editor, you'd know that. Being able to explain an effect doesn't make it "normal".
That's like saying "I can explain your cancer. Cancer is just when cells mutate and crowd out other cells. It happens to a lot of people. It's perfectly normal!"
Phone sensors are smaller and therefore not as sensitive to light as sensors in professional or even semi-professional cameras. (Larger sensors can capture more light; just the laws of physics.) So image quality on phones is always a compromise.
However, the solution to this lack of light-gathering ability should not be to hold the shutter open for such a long time that it ruins the frame rate. That's cutting off your nose to spite your face. And no one should accept it.
I think we are all fine with a little graininess in the artificially boosted low-light images from our Epic camcorders as long as it means we have a stable frame rate. This is the way every other low-end camera works and it's the way this phone used to work, and should still work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Samsung probably wanted you to get the best picture out of your camera and lowered the shutter speed to not add any artificial gain.
It's damned if you do and damned if you don't. Add gain and people complain about grain and artifacts. Slow down the shutter rate and get slower playback. Don't shoot the messenger here!
poit said:
The point is, something that worked fine before, (smooth video recording indoors) doesn't work now. It's not normal, anyone who has seen it can tell it's not normal.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
True. I'll add this to my original post.
I'll gladly take graininess over a what looks like a blurry Peter Gabriel video.
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA App
Here is a video I shot of one of my DJ friends in low light using only the camera flash as the light source on my phone (along with the various disco/club lights). Even in low light, the frame rate was very smooth.
After the EB13 update, the fps is horrible and I would never be able to shoot this same video in the phone's current state.
Anybody else getting this. It's about a 2 second gap. I'm thinking it's only relatively low light but it's annoying and misses photos.
All camera apps seem to have the same delay between pressing the shutter and actually taking the photo so it has to be hardware.
fr4nk1yn said:
Anybody else getting this. It's about a 2 second gap. I'm thinking it's only relatively low light but it's annoying and misses photos.
All camera apps seem to have the same delay between pressing the shutter and actually taking the photo so it has to be hardware.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hmm that's weird, mine only takes 0.5 secs even when it requires focusing. If I had focused before I pressed the shutter button, it takes the photo almost instantly.
If you have hdr on it has additional processing...if you have IA intelligent autofocus it had a delay to focus when you click shoot. If you just use manual focus and no IA it will fire as expected.
Sent from my VS980 4G using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Try to tap to focus on anyhting you want to focus,it will be faster.
fr4nk1yn said:
Anybody else getting this. It's about a 2 second gap. I'm thinking it's only relatively low light but it's annoying and misses photos.
All camera apps seem to have the same delay between pressing the shutter and actually taking the photo so it has to be hardware.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As the others said, be sure to tap to focus first.
Also, you can hold down the shutter button to force a focus and then let go to instantly take the shot. It locks the focus.
Mine does the same in low light situations. If tap to focus it still takes the same amount of time all together as I have to wait for it to focus still when I tap. And when I pan around its really slow. In normal or bright lighting I have no issue.
I think asia cnet's camera comparison just solved this.
They think there's post processing going on under certain low light conditions.
I have'nt checked being I'm still reading the article. If the shutter speed is stripped from the EXIF info we can be almost certain that's our delay.
I've come across a lot of people complaining about the camera not giving out noise-free images like it's supposed to. The trick is to use manual mode. I agree, if you use Superior Auto mode, it's a miss most of the times, and when it does work, it gives a purple-ish tint at the corners.
However, If you use manual mode and select the SCENE to NIGHT, the images come out amazing and noise-free!
[DO NOT JUDGE THE IMAGE BY WHAT THE VIEWFINDER SHOWS YOU. A lot of things happen when you press the shutter button. The viewfinder simply goes red for making it easy to focus. The final image in the gallery is a hundred times better]
The Scene modes are one of the most commonly ignored settings.
I hope this helps!
Thanks for this but i just tried it and even though it pretty light where i am taking the picture, the picture turns us a little blurry.
Possibly because night mode uses a longer shutter time which makes it more sensitive to motion blur?
Schadowx277 said:
I've come across a lot of people complaining about the camera not giving out noise-free images like it's supposed to. The trick is to use manual mode. I agree, if you use Superior Auto mode, it's a miss most of the times, and when it does work, it gives a purple-ish tint at the corners.
However, If you use manual mode and select the SCENE to NIGHT, the images come out amazing and noise-free!
[DO NOT JUDGE THE IMAGE BY WHAT THE VIEWFINDER SHOWS YOU. A lot of things happen when you press the shutter button. The viewfinder simply goes red for making it easy to focus. The final image in the gallery is a hundred times better]
The Scene modes are one of the most commonly ignored settings.
I hope this helps!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
USe night SCENE even if we are with light ? i mean DAY light
DjTony90 said:
USe night SCENE even if we are with light ? i mean DAY light
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How do you select a SCENE mode? I don't have any such option.
Never mind, I had it at 20MP.
Havent got around to really check out every setting in manual mode, bu I will for certain try this on oute tomorrow.
don't know why but right now scene mode shows up only on 8 megapixel and lower shots , so change your camera settings to access it.
I Use Manual mode, 20 Mp, ISO 50!!! Very important for controlling noise - still at pixel level picture is a mess but that is true for Every camera with such pixel density! And overall picture quality as seen on my sample is OK!
Isn't ISO50 only workable with very good lighting? I mean, indoors it's very tricky already...
dagrim1 said:
Isn't ISO50 only workable with very good lighting? I mean, indoors it's very tricky already...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Photography is painting with Light, when light is not available there no much "painting" - Agree indoors when it's dark You should up ISO otherwise camera will go to very long exposures and You'll get blurry pictures.
What i was giving was setting for lower possible noise in pictures, settings will vary according to current lighting condition
pesho00 said:
Photography is painting with Light, when light is not available there no much "painting" - Agree indoors when it's dark You should up ISO otherwise camera will go to very long exposures and You'll get blurry pictures.
What i was giving was setting for lower possible noise in pictures, settings will vary according to current lighting condition
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure, but it's logical that a lower ISO will generate less noise, unfortunately then shutter times increase quickly resulting in moved shots. But it does seem an issue with auto mode that it increases the ISO values very quickly...
Ah well, hoping future firmware updates will improve things (if only had sony included OIS in this thing).
when i select Iso50 the whole of the viewfinder becomes VERY laggy. doesnt anyone else find this? (happens with both mine and my old z1 which was replaced)
very disappointed with the camera on this phone given that the camera is supposed to be the main selling point of the phone.
thefunkygibbon said:
when i select Iso50 the whole of the viewfinder becomes VERY laggy. doesnt anyone else find this? (happens with both mine and my old z1 which was replaced)
very disappointed with the camera on this phone given that the camera is supposed to be the main selling point of the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have No such problem.
thefunkygibbon said:
when i select Iso50 the whole of the viewfinder becomes VERY laggy. doesnt anyone else find this? (happens with both mine and my old z1 which was replaced)
very disappointed with the camera on this phone given that the camera is supposed to be the main selling point of the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same lagginess here, but only when the lighting is low/lower... Not as much as an issue for me.
Camera doesn't live up to it's expectations unfortunately, especially in lower light. (No, I don't expect awesome pics in lower light but coming from a Lumia920, which performed a whole lot better, yay for OIS, in that area it is kinda disappointing)
dagrim1 said:
Same lagginess here, but only when the lighting is low/lower... Not as much as an issue for me.
Camera doesn't live up to it's expectations unfortunately, especially in lower light. (No, I don't expect awesome pics in lower light but coming from a Lumia920, which performed a whole lot better, yay for OIS, in that area it is kinda disappointing)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
not tested it in "good light" to be honest since the whole point in changing the ISO is to compensate for the low light conditions you are trying to take the photo in.
its a little confusing since "Auto" iso setting is the only one which is not laggy. you can select iso50 or the top iso level (Can't remember what number it is) and its all just as laggy. you would have thought that Auto would imply that you would be using an automatically determined iso level, which would be more intensive on the phone than selecting an iso level manually (especially iso 50 which should be really less processing than"auto" would be.
---------- Post added at 09:53 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:50 AM ----------
ilovemyZ1 said:
After doing some more research I found the answer to our low-light camera problems! This trick works with all Sony phones and is easy to do.
What we need is this and this and image quality improves SIGNIFICANTLY!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
well, i have one of those and i can tell you that low light pictures on that are just as bad. a) it doesnt use the nice sony camera app. it uses the frankly rubbish Sony memories camera app which has next to nothing in terms of manual setting and b) you can't use a flash.
so no. it isnt the answer. at all.
ilovemyZ1 said:
haha maybe you should have got the QX100 instead
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
maybe, but it was a freebie with my phone. i've used it a handful of times and its frankly crap.
might stick it on ebay later actually. i doubt the qx100 would be much better tbh as it'd still be using the same app. it'll still take about 30 seconds to connect the device to the phone and it'll still have the same crap wifi distance (about an arms length) before the phones viewfinder lags out badly.
thefunkygibbon said:
maybe, but it was a freebie with my phone. i've used it a handful of times and its frankly crap.
might stick it on ebay later actually. i doubt the qx100 would be much better tbh as it'd still be using the same app. it'll still take about 30 seconds to connect the device to the phone and it'll still have the same crap wifi distance (about an arms length) before the phones viewfinder lags out badly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The QX10 is pretty good in low light, the QX100 will be better with the large sensor and 1.8 aperture at the wide end.
Nothing can help the lack of flash for certain situations, but a lot of it comes from learning the camera.
Wifi isn't amazing, but it works further than that for me, and through walls. I'm trying to think of new ways to use that style of camera and have been experimenting.
Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk now Free
I know the camera issue has been beat to death already but I've been testing it for many days and would like to relay my results. A lot of people are saying that the auto focus is bad causing blurry pictures. This is false, the focus works great but the camera always chooses a shutter speed that's to low for the lighting causing blur on subjects in motion. The only way I can get the shutter speed over 1/20 is by taking a picture in bright light. Even in above average lighting conditions the shutter will go to 1/20 or below. There is no option for metering so I wonder if LG coded something wrong in the camera drivers. I have tried every camera program out there and they all take the exact same picture using the same to low shutter speed which tells me it's not the stock camera app. I don't have the skill to dive into the programming but that is where the problem seems to be. It's the same brand (Sony) camera sensor as the SGS4 so I know that it's not the sensors fault.
Any thoughts?
Sent from my LG-D803 using xda app-developers app
Anybody else have any ideas?
I'm also seeing these ridiculous shutter speeds (1/14, 1/20) when shooting in low light indoors, even if picking Sport mode, and was looking for a discussion on the topic here. Happy to find it
I had almost given up getting the camera to do what I wanted, when I discovered that the Intelligent Auto feature actually sometimes is ... intelligent. I took 4 photos of my toddler - obviously, not a subject willing to sit still. All photos on intelligent auto.
For two of the photos, the software shot with ISO 700 and 1/15th shutter, pretty much what Normal does every time. But - the other two were taken with ISO 1400-1/30 and ISO 1500-1/30. Naturally, the latter two were a lot sharper.
This is incredibly annoying since the Normal mode only lets you manually pick max ISO 800 and gives no shutter speed control. Until I found out about this intelligent auto thing, I forced -1, -1 1/3 stops underexposure to make the camera use a faster shutter (it typically used 1/59 for some reason). Now I guess I will take 5-6 pics every time and hope the camera is indeed intelligent part of the time.
- Is there no custom camera app capable of setting shutter speed manually, and use the ISO settings available to Intelligent Auto?
- Noone's had any word from LG on this?
I will be contacting LG support about this as well, but wanted to get the XDA word on the matter first...
Cheers, Are
Just replying to say I'm having the same issue. The fastest shutter speed I've seen is 1/15 in a well lit, easy to focus shot. The vast majority of my shots are blurry as a result.
I'm running Cyanogenmod at the moment.
I'm having pretty bad shutter speeds as well. It take 2 seconds to take a well-lit picture.
Guys , Try out the Moto X camera app. I may be wrong but i think its a bit faster .
JasElS said:
I'm having pretty bad shutter speeds as well. It take 2 seconds to take a well-lit picture.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
farazafs said:
Guys , Try out the Moto X camera app. I may be wrong but i think its a bit faster .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not talking about how long it takes to take the picture, that's delay. I'm talking shutter speed, how long the shutter stays open allowing light to hit the sensor.
I have not had any big problems with this, most of my shots are pretty tack sharp, and seem to have some decent shutterspeeds.. Only in very poor light I do get 1/15 shutterspeeds but at pretty average lights I get 1/30-1/120 sometimes faster, but mostly 1/40..
My shutterdelay is almist nothing too..
I found a modified version of the stock LG G2 camera by sefnap that works with CM 10.2 M1 and produces much better results: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2522889
Some of the features don't work but overall it's vastly better than the camera included with CM.
There is also another modified version of the stock camera put up by Heatshiver that probably works even better but it doesn't currently work with CM (only works with stock and some AOSP ROMs): http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2525783
I just discovered something the other day when playing with my camera... Albeit in bright light. Check out these pics taken at 60mph from my car while I was driving (ie not the most steady hand).
What I did was set it on sports mode and then old down the camera button until I heard the beep, and then released to capture the image I wanted (ie the road signs). The one out of my car window was actually more focused than I could focus with my naked eye...
I have a note 3 sm n900.
But in my camera if the turn image smart stabilisation off the photos sre taken are very fast but they start cracking if i zoom in.. if i take a pic of a book or something the words arent very clear,i even tried keeping my hands very steady while taking the photos.
On the other hand enbablimg smart stabilisation, camera takes around one second to take a photo and the photos arr very clear.
This shouldnt be happening, right?
Whats the point of having smart stabilisation off if the photos look like taken from a 2MP shooter.
Please help.
Please reply.
I have been hurt by the community as my last problems didnt even get a reply.
Sent from my SM-N900 using XDA Free mobile app
begimaad said:
I have a note 3 sm n900.
But in my camera if the turn image smart stabilisation off the photos sre taken are very fast but they start cracking if i zoom in.. if i take a pic of a book or something the words arent very clear,i even tried keeping my hands very steady while taking the photos.
On the other hand enbablimg smart stabilisation, camera takes around one second to take a photo and the photos arr very clear.
This shouldnt be happening, right?
Whats the point of having smart stabilisation off if the photos look like taken from a 2MP shooter.
Please help.
Please reply.
I have been hurt by the community as my last problems didnt even get a reply.
Sent from my SM-N900 using XDA Free mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you aware of how camera sensors work?
Smart stabilization is meant to offset the use of higher ISOs/lower shutter speeds so that your pictures turn out less noisy. Given that the Note 3's max aperture is f/2.2, let's make an example.
In the daylight, your ISO can drop and thus picture quality can improve (this is very barebones, but it's for conceptual purpose). In essence, higher ISO = more noise, especially the smaller the sensor size. You can visibly see that the Note 3 has a very small sensor. In fact, even on APS-C cameras, noise performances starts to suck around ISO 3200~6400. ISO is meant to make each pixel brighter (or something to that effect), and the smaller those pixels are, the more noise you'll generate (again, not exactly, but that's the gist of what you're experiencing). So, with 13 megapixels fit onto the small sensor, you're likely going to start seeing noise at like, ISO800 (this is a random guess, but it's probably true).
Anyways, so during the daytime, there is a lot of available light, so the ISO can be reduced and exposure can be adjusted using shutter speed (assuming aperture stays the same). This improves picture quality as lower ISOs generally equate to less noise. However, as you get later into the night, less available light means that one of two things has to happen. Either your shutter speed gets slower to let in more light, or your ISO cranks up to become more sensitive to the available light (and thus more noise). Usually a combination of the two occur to get a trade off between quality and shutter speed.
A quick browse on google gave me, 1/15, f2.2, ISO 1000, as EXIF data from an iPhone 5s taking a picture at night. As you can see, the ISO is pretty high for the small sensor, and the shutter speed is quite low. As a rule of thumb, you generally want at least an equivalent shutter speed to the focal length, but given the crop factor of this lens, I have no idea what that'd actually be. But 1/15th is very, very hard to hold without some form of IS/OS, even on full-frame cameras. What you're experiencing is this effect. The low shutter speed to let in more light means that even if you breath and shift the camera 1cm, you'll get blur. It's not out of focus, but the subjects weren't in the same place because you moved, causing them to be rendered in shift. The noise is the result of the ISO being too high; the pixel sensitivity isn't that great, and so you're getting all kinds of weird colours that the phone is trying to represent without definitive data. Again, we're assuming that the aperture stays wide open under these conditions to let in the most light.
I hope you got the answer you were looking for. Basically, what you want is pretty hard to do, even with a full-framed DSLR (although it's becoming less true with recent image processing). You can't really turn of IS/OS and expect the pictures to be great. There's a lot of other things that are taken into account behind the scenes that are usually beyond your control on your phone. Smart stabilization using image processing algorithms to help mitigate the impact of higher ISOs and lower shutter speeds by post-processing the images you take on the fly. Such is the cause of the delay.
What version you're running , do you try to use any third-party camera app results may vary , did you increase exposure value, try to reser all camera setting to default
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msasm09 said:
What version you're running , do you try to use any third-party camera app results may vary , did you increase exposure value, try to reser all camera setting to default
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Got it sorted out. In not so bright conditions the pictures start breaking and by turning on smart stabilisation it gets fixed. Credit goes to the last persom who explained. Best explanation ever. Hats off to u
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