With the HD2's pretty short battery life compared to my previous HTC phones, and also as I was a bit bored , I decided to have a look at how much the different systems drain in the HD2, and did some tests.
So for anyone interested, here are the results:
Base consumptions: (pick the one that suits your situation)
Standby, phone on, WIFI+BT off, no connections active: 5mA
Processor running idle, screen off, connections as above: 55mA
100% CPU usage (Coreplayer benchmark), connections as above: 315mA
USB connected, connections as above: 125mA
Additions: (add this to the base one depending on what you have on)
Connections:
BT on, idle: +1mA
Wifi on, idle: +5mA BUT!! If you enable wifi during standby (with BsB Tweaks or the WifiNoStandby CAB), the processor does NOT go to standby
anymore, so the base needs to be the 55mA above!
Connected to EDGE, idle: not measureable
Connected to 3G, idle: +4mA
Beware those 2 will occasionally and unpredictably send data every now and then, so this doesn't necessarily mean much.
BT transfer (file copy through ActiveSync, 120kB/s, CPU usage ~2%): +80mA
Wifi transfer (file copy with Wifi Remote access, 1MB/s, CPU usage ~3%): +200mA
EDGE/3G transfer: Pretty impossible to measure due to so many variables, but can be extreme (total current consumptions of 850-1150mA, so very approximative 500-800mA draw from the data connection during page loads are common!), and leads to most of the energy draw when using the net a lot. EDGE uses more power than 3G, consumption is higher when network coverage is lower, bad network throughput or congestion also mean lots of retries/overhead and less effective data transfer, using power for a longer time until the data is finally there.
Memory access (large file transfer):
Internal read/write through ActiveSync (speeds 2.5 / 2.1 MB/s respectively): +20mA / +130mA
Card read/write through ActiveSync (speeds 3.2 / 2.7MB/s respectively): +25mA / +40mA
Card read/write in USB disk mode (speeds 7.5 / 5MB/s respectively): +40mA / +45mA
Backlight:
10%: +65mA
20%: +78mA
30%: +90mA
40%: +105mA
50%: +121mA
60%: +136mA
70%: +154mA
80%: +170mA
90%: +190mA
100%:+210mA
GPS:
+95mA
Flashlight (with HTC Flashlight):
Level 1: +32mA
Level 2 (same as camera flash on): +107mA
Level 3 (same as camera "bright flash during shot"): +530mA
And remember the battery capacity: 1230mAh
So with this you can calculate your battery life for various activities. For example:
- Playing a video with full backlight: Let's say the video is well encoded (30% CPU use, for example 720x400 1Mbps DivX), that's about 150mA base, + 210mA backlight = 360mA, resulting in about 3h20 battery life.
- Same at night with only 40% backlight: Life goes up to about 5h!
- Wifi during standby for an 8h night, or a program that somehow prevents the phone from entering standby: 60mA or 55mA respectively, draining about 40% of the battery during that time.
- GPS program, with 70% backlight: Let's assume 150mA for the processor as it has some work to do, 90mA for the GPS, 154mA for the backlight = 394mA, or 3 hours.
- Music through wired headphones, screen off: the 55mA base plus a little 5mA as MP3 decoding is nothing for the CPU = 60mA or 20h.
- Same with a BT headset, with about half the BT bandwidth: 60+40 = 100mA or 12h
etc.
Charging
[EDIT 14.04.10]
This is now a dedicated section as I did some more thorough charging tests.
So, as some of you might know, the HD2 has 2 charging "modes".
- One is USB, that is used if the phone is connected to a PC, or an unknown device. In this mode, the current the HD2 will draw from the port/charger is limited to approx. 470mA, to stay within the maximum of 500mA a USB port can supply.
- The other is "dedicated charger", which is recognised on the original HTC charger (and some others, it's becoming a standard for a "dedicated charging USB port") by shorting of the 2 data pins of the USB connector in the charger.
USB charge
Important to know, during USB charge, the phone will NOT go to sleep, as it's supposed to be connected to a PC, and be running either ActiveSync, Disk drive mode, or modem, and in all 3 cases would be expected not to shutdown. So not only the current supplied to the HD2 is low, but the phone draws some of it for itself, leaving very little for actual charge - so expect loooong charge times.
USB charge with screen on (backlight dimmed, 10%): 285mA
USB charge with screen off (standby): 345mA (which shows the processor still runs and draws the "base USB" current)
Dedicated charger
When used with a charger that has the 2 USB data pins shorted, such as the original charger, the HD2 will draw a current that is proportional to the voltage on the USB power lines. To measure this I have used the original supplied USB cable, a variable regulated power supply, USB socket (with data pins shorted), and 2 meters for voltage/current. Voltages are measured at the "PC" end of the USB cable, so not taking account of losses in the USB cable. Will talk more about this later on.
Current vs Voltage diagrams are attached. Charge current is proportional to voltage, linearly until it reaches the max charge current, approx 830mA. This was measured so that the only draw is charge. If the phone is turned on while at max charge current, it will draw extra, until it reaches about 980mA, and will then stop to respect the 1A rating of the stock charger.
Now, to the influence of USB cables. I initially had some trouble with inconsistant numbers, phone only drawing 670mA from the stock charger, i.e matching neither the ~350mA from USB, or ~830mA from stock charger in "normal" condition. Turns out that to make it more convenient on my workplace I was using an USB extension between charger and HD2 cable. It was a $2 extension I bought on Dealextreme. Removing it solved the problem... and after making those measurements I poked with it again. Turns out that at 1A current, the voltage drop in the extension (which by the way isn't longer than the HD2's USB cable) was 1.8V! Yep, nearly 2 Ohms for a 1.5m extension! Couldn't believe it.
I have a cheap Chinese microUSB cable that wasn't as bad,but still significantly more resistive than the stock one, hence me noting I used the stock cable for my tests. So, quality of the cables, extensions, adapters IS important! Note the phone correctly reaches full charge current a little bit under the 5V USB spec, so everything is well tuned.
Now, important to know, Most 3rd party chargers will not have the 2 USB data pins shorted, and will thus result in the same behavior as mentioned under USB charge, the processor will also be running continuously drawing the "base USB" current.
It is often possible to modify 3rd party chargers by opening them and shorting the pins, speeding up charge. The voltage/current curve behavior is actually helping there, because thanks to it if the charger is overloaded its voltage will most likely fall a bit, and the HD2 will thus draw less and find a nice balance point. This DOES NOT mean there's no possiblilty of damaging the charger, but all 3 I modified did well. One that was really weak resulted in not much more current being drawn after the mod than before (i.e voltage fell very low, approx. 4.4V), however the gain from not having the processor running like in USB mode still sped up charge a little.
Thank you, that is one useful chunk of comprehensive information
Could you please explain the exact measuring method for these tests?
40% backlight at night is a tough example tho, Lumos on my device is set to 10% for 0 sensor value, and only because I can't set it to lower than 10%... nice to know battery drain goes up twice from 10% to 60%!
Also, 100% is usually really necessary under direct sunlight, in a normal lit room probably 40% backlight is more than enough to watch a video... all in all, with your superinteresting info, the battery doesn't look like lasting "too short" now, but more or less "the right amount considering the battery capacity".
My iPaq 210 has a 2200mAh battery, just to make a comparison... that's why I could go for 8 hrs during some bus trips while watching tv series, and I just needed to swap battery and used a little of the second one.
What's your estimate of the drain caused by activating push email? I've recently been doing some rather crude experiments myself, and one provisional conclusion is that push email on a hotmail account uses a lot more battery than push email on an Exchange server.
Excellent stuff, you are to be congratulated.
I have a long held theory and I wonder if you are in a position to to test it?
I believe that battery consumption is greatly increased when an app is run from mem card and would be intrigued to see a comparison between an install to this as opposed to phone mem.
Any chance?
Battery levels
I found that power consumption of the battery got even worse after I went to Rom 1.66.707.1. However, after a few days, I let it run all the way out, switched back on, it ran out after a few minutes. Then after an overnight charge I found the battery (on standby) only went down by about 10 -12 % in 24hrs. I'm hoping this performance will continue.
What did you use for the testing?
pa49 said:
Excellent stuff, you are to be congratulated.
I have a long held theory and I wonder if you are in a position to to test it?
I believe that battery consumption is greatly increased when an app is run from mem card and would be intrigued to see a comparison between an install to this as opposed to phone mem.
Any chance?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That would be reasonable as reading from an external media will need energy to access its contents... still, once the app files have been loaded into the device's RAM, it shouldn't matter much
You could also test by comparing:
1) copy say 30mb from one location to another of the internal mem
2) copy from microsd to microsd
3) copy from mem to microsd
4) copy from microsd to mem
ephestione said:
Could you please explain the exact measuring method for these tests?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Simply using the built-in current sensor, getting the reads from AEBPlus battery information screen, and methodically turning things on/off once the others are evaluated and can be subtracted from the total reading.
ephestione said:
40% backlight at night is a tough example tho, Lumos on my device is set to 10% for 0 sensor value, and only because I can't set it to lower than 10%...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Really? You should force the backlight off then
I love bright images myself, so even in my bed in total darkness if I watch a video or photos I'll force 100% backlight I have Lumos set to force 100% for Coreplayer, Resco Photo manager and HTC album
Of course not for browsing or just messing around, in that case it's 20% for me
Shasarak said:
What's your estimate of the drain caused by activating push email? I've recently been doing some rather crude experiments myself, and one provisional conclusion is that push email on a hotmail account uses a lot more battery than push email on an Exchange server.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's one thing I'd have no idea about... I've never used push email at all. And that's "standby usage", so hard to evaluate, as you never know when it kicks in.
Measuring that would need to be done on a long time. I'd say to leave your phone one night with push email off, one night with Exchange only, and one night with hotmail only, and then check the difference, preferably with a battery at about 80% charge at the start (mine seems to fall from 100% to 90% in a few minutes before becoming more regular, so I'd say the top of the scale isn't that reliable).
And I should really try push email once, that would be nice, but I *think* I have no provider that can do it for me... well I have a gmail account I never use, I should try to see if I can have it check my usual 3 mail accounts, aggregate and push... never really looked into that stuff.
pa49 said:
Excellent stuff, you are to be congratulated.
I have a long held theory and I wonder if you are in a position to to test it?
I believe that battery consumption is greatly increased when an app is run from mem card and would be intrigued to see a comparison between an install to this as opposed to phone mem.
Any chance?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks
Well I'd tend to refute that theory, because when I tested the BT and Wifi in use I tried read from internal memory, write to internal, read from card and write to card, and all 4 were identical. I should have mentioned it indeed, but I was mostly interested to seeing if reads (wifi/BT "sending") and writes (wifi/BT "receiving") would have an influence on consumption, which wasn't the case, as well as whether the throughput was different, which wasn't the case either.
But I've done a few more tests, see the updated first post
One intersting thing is firstly that when the HD2 is connected to USB, the current draw grows significantly, so I've made a new "base consumption".
Next, the card is actually faster than the internal memory both in reads and in writes, tested both through activesync for consistency. Writing to the internal memory eats a LOT more than writing to the card. Reading from the card eats a little more than reading from internal memory, probably evens out as the reads are shorter due to faster transfer rate.
I've added some charging tests as well. Apparently, even if the phone "disconnects" from USB when turned off, the processor still runs and uses about the "USB connected" base current.
kilrah said:
Simply using the built-in current sensor, getting the reads from AEBPlus battery information screen, and methodically turning things on/off once the others are evaluated and can be subtracted from the total reading.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
d'oh aebplus has a battery information screen, checking it right away In that case you'd have to take into consideration aebplus' current absorption anyway... which is not measurable as you cannot check the current intake of aebplus without aebplus being running
I have the cab on the sd already, but didn't install if after noticing that didn't work for button assignments with later versions of the rom... does it work for you on that side? I used the program all the time on my previous ipaq because it was oh so useful but never got around to notice it had a battery info subsection.
Really? You should force the backlight off then
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wouldn't have much sense doing it in the dark would it (admitting it's possible altogether on the HD2!)
But I actually used my oooold casio cassiopeia, about 7 years ago, with backlight turned off, while reading ebooks with speed reader plus during train trips, as the neon lights created a reflection good enough on the display so that I didn't need backlight...
in the end, the backlight died altogether and until I bought a new device, I managed to use it with light turned off
A flashing LED (incoming SMS warning, e.g.) seems to add consumption of 1-3mA.
Running FlexMail in background with a push service (IMAP IDLE) adds up to 30mA.
ephestione said:
does it work for you on that side?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
AEBPlus works fine for me yes... but I don't have a "latest version" ROM AFAIK. I don't like WM6.5.x new softkey arrangement, so I'm staying with 6.5.
Anyway more about Push, I configured that through gmail yesterday, and it works just fine. I left it on during the night, and this morning I had lost 8% battery. So it's pretty much negligible. I received 2 e-mails during the night and was on 3G network.
this is a nice topic! i am interested in how much extra it uses when you are playing a MP3 with the build in HTC app?
maybe it would be a nice idea to make a program that outputs results like you pasted fast and easy (something like a benchmark app) so we can test different rom's fast? too bad i cant write anything otherwise i would try..
OK, seems MP3 uses 120mA screen off, both with Sense player and Coreplayer, so:
Processor running idle, screen off base + 65mA
But it seems to make some pretty big "jumps" once in a while. Maybe they both decode ior fetch from memory by "batches"...
my test,
HD2 rom 1.66
with BT on and BT off (configured but no connection to headset) difference in consumption is 60mA .!
BT is draining my HD2 .!
kilrah said:
OK, seems MP3 uses 120mA screen off, both with Sense player and Coreplayer, so:
Processor running idle, screen off base + 65mA
But it seems to make some pretty big "jumps" once in a while. Maybe they both decode ior fetch from memory by "batches"...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, I can't confirm the BT issue. Did you observe over a long period of time? The "quiet" current for MP3 I seem to get is 185mA with screen on and backlight at 10%, but sometimes it will climb to 280-320mA for a moment and go down again, both with BT on and off. With screen off for a while it seems to stabilise at the "quiet" level.
BTW, it seems that Advanced task manager isn't reporting CPU usage levels properly. Does someone know of a CPU monitor that works correclty on the HD2?
Yup. review over multiple 6 mins. all baseline(3g/brightness) setting the same. resetting each time for off on BT.
kilrah said:
OK, I can't confirm the BT issue. Did you observe over a long period of time? The "quiet" current for MP3 I seem to get is 185mA with screen on and backlight at 10%, but sometimes it will climb to 280-320mA for a moment and go down again, both with BT on and off. With screen off for a while it seems to stabilise at the "quiet" level.
BTW, it seems that Advanced task manager isn't reporting CPU usage levels properly. Does someone know of a CPU monitor that works correclty on the HD2?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Another consideration:
Data connection sucks power when used actively. Badly. As mentioned in the OP I haven't made comprehensive tests due to low monthly allowance, but I've had a look during normal use.
I'm pretty regularly doing 1hr train rides, during which I will be listnening to music , and browse the net at the same time. It's usually bright, so backlight will probably be at 70%. Signal is relatively low most of the time, on EDGE, inbetween small towns. When I'm on a "static" page (reading an already loaded page), current drain varies between 250 and 350mA.
But while loading a page, it will easily soar to 800mA+. Considering it takes 30-60 seconds to read a page, 20 to load a new one, and repeat... you can quickly see that this kind of usage leads to serious drain... in less than 2 hours the battery would be dead.
So be aware of how much power data connection will use. It's directly proportional to the amount of transferred data, and the worse the reception the more power it uses.
I should try using opera mini again, like I was always doing on my Kaiser. I never noticed excessive drain with it, but opera mini easily divides traffic by a factor of 10...
Just wanted to report that the new version of the superuseful BattClock has now a builtin battery current output, even if it's not really update once per second... seems more like one every 10 seconds.
I get ~240mA playing fullscreen stretched Frasier in lowest backlight (but that's with the keypad leds turned on all the time, I don't know why they don't go off, and I don't have keypadledcontrol installed... so that's a problem), and I get a total 630mA with HTC flashlight at maximum.
Good news! Bye bye Batti
Normal about the refresh time, the sensor only updates every 20 secs or so.
Some new considerations I posted somewhere else but should have put here.
After some time the HD2 seems to have better battery life, but usually it's not your battery lasting longer, it's just you not spending your day playing with the thing anymore.
It's always the same thing, the more a device can do, the more you do with it. On my first 1h train journeys after getting my HD2, I was able to kill 50% battery in 1hr. My first thought was "wow, with my Kaiser I would only use like 15%!!"
But then I took a second thought. I used 50%, but I was browsing the web, in bad reception areas, while listening to music the whole time. With my Kaiser, I'd put music on, check 3 webpages, then put it on the tray with just MSN connected and just pick it up to read/type a message once in a while.
On a next trip, I "forced myself" to do the same with the HD2. Just checked the news for 5 mins, then only listened to music and picked up msn once in a while, plus an unexpected 10min phone call. Guess what? I've only used 20% battery during the trip this time
The "problem" is that browsing with the Kaiser was just painful, so I'd just check the news and put it away. On the HD2 it's so comfortable I forget it and just spend my whole trip browsing heavy pages, which obviously kills battery in no time...
exactly my thoughts and findings
Since the previous thread on battery life was merged with other threads on totally different topics, I've opened this thread as a place to share tips and experience regarding battery life. I've little time the coming 48 hours, but I will update this thread and make a collection of tips to improve battery life!
So I've taken some measurements to be able to give a more objective analysis!
I've used OSMonitor Goto menu/options/filter (dmesg) Tag filter [D:BATT] for battery readings The I= the battery drain in mAh.
I also used signal strenght info from settings/about phone/network. I used Extended Controls to keep my screen on during the test and control data etc.
I want to use these results as a reference to determine "normal battery drain" and to determine how different variables affect battery life. It would be best to test this on "out of the box setup' to eleminate influence from other aps. I didn't want to hard reset so I guess I've sinned against science. Another variable I've not eliminated is the amount of RAM being used, and this could be important. I'm not perfect
To compare results it would be best to perform test the same as I did. If anyone has a better idea for a test please say so! It would be perfect if some devoloper could make an app that does al these test automaticaly! It would be a great benchmarking tool!
Results so far:
*Standby
3 mAh (on G, data off)
*Screen Brightness
Screen brightness 0% : ~82 mAh (airplane mode on, everything turned off)
Screen brightness 100%: ~200 (idem)
To compare with brightness 0% my Old Touch pro uses 63 mAh with its tiny screen
(Airplane mode, Brightness 0%)
275 MB ram Free: 75-80 mAh
185 MB ram Free: 75-80 mAh
*Network and GPS
All with 0% brightness
G (GSM only): 82 mAh (data off, everything off) - 83db 15 ASU
3G (GSM/ WCDMA Auto): 85 (data Off, eveything off) -85db 13 ASU
Wifi Connected (Wireless G, Full Signal strength, router in the same room) : 150 (sync off, background data off, everything off)
GPS: 125 (GPS Test, airplane mode, everthing off)
*Gaming
Asphalt 5: 310 (airplane mode, everthing off)
Draw your own conclusions! To be continued!
Reserved for updates
Funny i was looking for the old thread! Jus to put a note on it 11 hours since unplugged. Hasnt past 50% battery life yet. Had wifi on all day with hourly sync. Using this morning for XDA forums viewing for about 1 hour. Some bluetooth and as it stands the battery thing shows this.
Display 60%
Android System 15%
Android OS 12%
Cell Standby 6%
Phone idle 5%
Wifi 2%
Note i dont have 3g turned on yet as my provider hasnt given me the internet add on yet.
Well it's now at the stage where I've had my phone for a week, so the battery has had a few good cycles and should have settled down.
I'm still looking for the elusive whole day without a top up charge, doing the things I used to do on my hero.
Things I'm currently trying: Syncing facebook and other non essential things (to me) once a day, 2g only, and running Juicedefender. I also have screen brightness set manually to a lowish level, and have stopped vibration feedback on the keyboard....
Will see what tomorrow brings.
Basil3 said:
Well it's now at the stage where I've had my phone for a week, so the battery has had a few good cycles and should have settled down.
I'm still looking for the elusive whole day without a top up charge, doing the things I used to do on my hero.
Things I'm currently trying: Syncing facebook and other non essential things (to me) once a day, 2g only, and running Juicedefender. I also have screen brightness set manually to a lowish level, and have stopped vibration feedback on the keyboard....
Will see what tomorrow brings.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I stopped vibration feedback after day one and have had no problems with battery since, I had completely forgotten about that though. I have a feeling you will be smiling tomorrow. If you think about it having to provide constant stabs of electricity to start a motor all the time must be a huge drain.
Doktaphex said:
I stopped vibration feedback after day one and have had no problems with battery since, I had completely forgotten about that though. I have a feeling you will be smiling tomorrow. If you think about it having to provide constant stabs of electricity to start a motor all the time must be a huge drain.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's what I'm thinking. I would send 100+ Google talk messages a day. All that tapping and vibrating must eat the battery a bit.
Sent from my Desire HD using XDA App
Doktaphex said:
I stopped vibration feedback after day one and have had no problems with battery since, I had completely forgotten about that though. I have a feeling you will be smiling tomorrow. If you think about it having to provide constant stabs of electricity to start a motor all the time must be a huge drain.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've disabled it for the on screen keyboard, is there any other place it needs to be disabled? Like for the Home keys at the bottom?
oddly there is another vibrate option under sound settings, right at the bottom there is an option for Vibrate Feedback when pressing onscreen buttons.
This isn't a thread for when your battery drain is excessive on standby, this is a thread dedicated to figuring out how to simply get more power to the phone for extended runtime.
I'm using a 5000 mah external battery pack for extra charge, and it seems to be good enough to last me at least an extra day or two of usage, which is great. It seems like the only other options are cutting up the battery door to fit an extended battery from the evo 3D or just carrying extra batteries...
Best easy change for me was always using wifi instead of the network when at home and work. Made a huge improvement
Hunt3r.j2 said:
This isn't a thread for when your battery drain is excessive on standby, this is a thread dedicated to figuring out how to simply get more power to the phone for extended runtime.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So....how to get the most time out of your battery in standby?
As you've allready said:
One of the biggest improvements is possible by using a Sensation or Evo3D battery. With that i get a nice 1% per hour in standby. (It's actually a bit lower than 1%).
While not using the phone it's unnessecary to have 3G activated. Recieving emails and texts via whatsapp, viber etc via 2G is good enough. For everything that is more datahungry you can allways activate 3G manually.
Keep background data turned off. I use K9 Mail which works independently and Whatsapp recieves messages too. But a lot of other stuff doesn't syncronize which means less wakelocks and thus less power consumption.
Same with locations. As long as you don't WANT to tell google your every step you can keep network based location turned off.
If you need a location fix quickly you can allways turn on gps for a moment. After using the FasterFix app (i guess you need root for that), i get a gps lock in 5 seconds, so i can determin my location really fast and share it with others (for intance via whatsapp) without having to keep it on all the time.
And last but not least:
You probably don't need to know the current outside temperature every 5 minutes. So set that to manual update too.
Doing these things doesn't turn my smartphone into an overweight dumbphone with a battery problem and i get a maximum of over 4 days of standby time out of it.
Normally my battery holds for roughly 35 hours (1 day and 11 hours), but it's usually awake for 1/4th of the time serving as my newspaper and video and mp3 player.
/edit:
Totally forgot:
Use llama!
You'll never have to worry about forgetting to set your phone on vibrate while at work and setting it to loud at home.
You can configure it so it only activates wifi at home and turns it off again if you didn't connect to any access point after a set amount of time. I haven't had to activate/deactivate wifi manually for ages without having to worry about it constantly searching for networks and sucking my battery dry!
What he said
Dlog said:
So....how to get the most time out of your battery in standby?
As you've allready said:
One of the biggest improvements is possible by using a Sensation or Evo3D battery. With that i get a nice 1% per hour in standby. (It's actually a bit lower than 1%).
While not using the phone it's unnessecary to have 3G activated. Recieving emails and texts via whatsapp, viber etc via 2G is good enough. For everything that is more datahungry you can allways activate 3G manually.
Keep background data turned off. I use K9 Mail which works independently and Whatsapp recieves messages too. But a lot of other stuff doesn't syncronize which means less wakelocks and thus less power consumption.
Same with locations. As long as you don't WANT to tell google your every step you can keep network based location turned off.
If you need a location fix quickly you can allways turn on gps for a moment. After using the FasterFix app (i guess you need root for that), i get a gps lock in 5 seconds, so i can determin my location really fast and share it with others (for intance via whatsapp) without having to keep it on all the time.
And last but not least:
You probably don't need to know the current outside temperature every 5 minutes. So set that to manual update too.
Doing these things doesn't turn my smartphone into an overweight dumbphone with a battery problem and i get a maximum of over 4 days of standby time out of it.
Normally my battery holds for roughly 35 hours (1 day and 11 hours), but it's usually awake for 1/4th of the time serving as my newspaper and video and mp3 player.
/edit:
Totally forgot:
Use llama!
You'll never have to worry about forgetting to set your phone on vibrate while at work and setting it to loud at home.
You can configure it so it only activates wifi at home and turns it off again if you didn't connect to any access point after a set amount of time. I haven't had to activate/deactivate wifi manually for ages without having to worry about it constantly searching for networks and sucking my battery dry!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exactly what he said, but you can automate a lot of it by using an app called Tasker. I use it to sync all data on my phone for 3 minutes every 4 hours so it's always up to date. It can also automate the GPS on/off depending which app I use so it switches on when I open CoPilot and turns off again when I close it.
Tasker can also replace Llama if you can find 'profiles. to do it. Llama looks pretty good though.
I think the biggest drain is the display. With auto brightness on, the sensor will monitor the changes in your surrounding every second the moment you turn on the screen. Turn that off and manually control the brightness save a lot of battery.
Or just use lower autobrightness script.
I use Invisibright. Long hold on search softkey + slide enables me to set the brightness to whatever I want in a second no matter what apps are running.
Hunt3r.j2 said:
Or just use lower autobrightness script.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is still useless as your sensor is still working every time you turn on your screen. The sensor is draining your battery. Not the brightness value.
Autobrightness sensor drain
So you think that there is a greater drain from the light sensor than from an uncontrolled screen brightness?
Interesting thought. I'll manually set my brightness level a round20% for the next charge cycle and see what effect it has, though I suspect that as my display currently accounts for 20% of battery drain it won't make all that much difference.
I use juice defender and I think its actually working.
Sent from my Inspire 4G using XDA
Waking up a device involves the hassle of picking up our device, reaching for the power button, and then pressing it to turn the screen on.
However, using the gyrometer and proximity sensors, gravity screen wakes your device up right as you pick it up, or hover your finger over the proximity sensor!! Neat!
Pros :
Small and light-weight
Doesn't hog up on RAM
No appreciable effect on battery life!
Various options to tune the settings to your liking!
Helpful for devices with broken power buttons
Cons :
None. You say?
This app has been around for a while, and it works seamlessly with our device.
All credits to the developer Plexnor. It is his work. Be generous, and buy him a beer if you may.
Play store link :
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.plexnor.gravityscreenofffree&hl=en
Here's a video on the same : :laugh::laugh:
https://youtu.be/NJ6kgaDIwCU
[APP][2.2+] Gravity Screen > Turn Screen On/Off Automatically - Keep Screen On
It doesn't seem to show up on the stock battery consumption screen but on BBS and Gsam, GravityScreen was consuming almost 7 to 12% battery per day.
Maybe I'm doing something wrong but I even turned off the wake by motion and all other accelerometer related services and kept only Proximity Screen On and Proximity Screen Off options ON.
Any suggestions?
Sent from my Nexus 5
Achilles. said:
It doesn't seem to show up on the stock battery consumption screen but on BBS and Gsam, GravityScreen was consuming almost 7 to 12% battery per day.
Maybe I'm doing something wrong but I even turned off the wake by motion and all other accelerometer related services and kept only Proximity Screen On and Proximity Screen Off options ON.
Any suggestions?
Sent from my Nexus 5
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
same here...i have done all suggested tips...
[4] Q: I'm experiencing high battery usage, why?
A: The app should use about 6 percent extra energy per day if you are not using too much the Turn Screen On by Motion feature. If you frequently lay your phone face up on a table and the Turn Screen On by Motion Timeout is too long, the battery consumption can be much higher. Because the CPU has to be constantly analyzing the data of to acceleration sensor to catch the movement when you lift up the device. Thus if you want to reduce the battery usage it's recommended to keep your phone often lying face down when it's on a table. Because in this situation the proximity sensor is responsible for turning the screen back on which uses much less energy. Moreover, please, keep in mind that the android en-built battery consumption measurement can show much higher results, because it shows the battery usage relatively to another apps. If the phone was not in use or the measurement period was short, it looks like my app uses too much energy however there was not too much energy used all together.
Yes I frequently lay the phone face up for see the notification led....
ironia. said:
same here...i have done all suggested tips...
[4] Q: I'm experiencing high battery usage, why?
A: The app should use about 6 percent extra energy per day if you are not using too much the Turn Screen On by Motion feature. If you frequently lay your phone face up on a table and the Turn Screen On by Motion Timeout is too long, the battery consumption can be much higher. Because the CPU has to be constantly analyzing the data of to acceleration sensor to catch the movement when you lift up the device. Thus if you want to reduce the battery usage it's recommended to keep your phone often lying face down when it's on a table. Because in this situation the proximity sensor is responsible for turning the screen back on which uses much less energy. Moreover, please, keep in mind that the android en-built battery consumption measurement can show much higher results, because it shows the battery usage relatively to another apps. If the phone was not in use or the measurement period was short, it looks like my app uses too much energy however there was not too much energy used all together.
Yes I frequently lay the phone face up for see the notification led....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Update it and try using only the Proximity wake and sleep..
Battery drain is minimal. [emoji16]
Sent from my Nexus 5
Achilles. said:
Update it and try using only the Proximity wake and sleep..
Battery drain is minimal. [emoji16]
Sent from my Nexus 5
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i will try, but i have already updated app, i can't live without table mode