Somehow my brand new moto x play back cover got some colored marks (not sure paint, nail polish....) before even putting a sim card and I have tried to clean it from nail polish remover, disinfectant (alcohol based) but nothing is working. What should I try?
Related
Ok so I've had a TD2 for 8 months now.
Had it is a soft rubber case for all its life. But my touch screen has started doing funny things. When I try to scroll the screen jumps back to the previous position and when I try and click on a button it doesn't recognize it.
Then I had a look at the So I thought it was the protective layer on the screen so I removed it only to find that the there is a thin line of oily like fluid under the glass of my phone. I think this is screen delamination.
Has anyone else experienced this sort of thing?
Know how criminal the Cell companies are in my country this will never be under warranty.
Does any have any thoughts for me. I'm going to try take it back. Though I have hardSPL the phone.. so not sure what the right steps are to change it back.
hello.
yesterday i ripped off genuine protective layer too. when tried to scroll, had strange reaction- view jumped in oposite to scroll direction. after longer inspection, under protection film, discovered ?condensated? water, so ripped shield and reattached again. worked for few minutes, and after needed to repeat same procedure again. after few rippofs- edges of film doesn't cling any more, so i trow out this film. without film device works very well, and now i think about:
1. buy cheap protective films in 10-20 packs;
2. buy expensive/very strong protection film (do not remember name, know from advertisement- usa military uses)
3. do not use protection at all.
For weak or two, i'll try working without protection. Working with stylus ~3 hours per day (usualy reading books), without stylus (answering call's, copying files, chating, browsing internet, etc), keeping in pocket without keys .
today discovered that same splashes of liquid without protective film. they where smaller and disapeared when i slightly squized phone sides.
You all have collapsed your screen.
The oily film under the screen is referred to as newton rings.
Search for "Topaz screen replacement".
A quick fix is to stick duct tape to it and try to seperate the layers.
If you have HSPL and wish to return it under warranty, you must flash your original ROM then flash stock SPL, however they will not cover the screen and will charge you for the repair anyway.
Thanks Guys
Well I took it in ... and we'll see.
Just a little bummed I really looked after that phone well... little too expensive to replace every 8 months...
Anyway
Hi there,
I broke my touch screen and tried to replace it by myself.
To make a long story short, I failed miserably (I broke the screen under).
However, I learned a few things I didn't met in the forum.
A- Disassembly of the case.
1- The Legend is glued. So, you have first to use hoven to melt the glue before being able to do anything useful.
15min/ 60 degree in the oven. Or use an hair dryer (I used the former).
2- Don't forget to remove ALL the screws (even the one behind the IMEI notice).
3- Don't try to open the camera lid before loosening the glue or you'll damage the aluminium body.
4- You have to unplug all the différent cables, so take notes to remember where all of them goes.
5- You must disassemble all the boards. There are 2 boards. One supporting the sim / SD connector, and one supporting the screen/touchscreen.
6- When disassembling the screen board, remove it by pulling the touchscreen at the bottom, and lift it up. don't pass a tool on the sides to remove it or worse, under the touchscreen, you'r tool will touch the screen under and break it (like I did). The screen is very, very fragile
Now, I'm stuck here because I can't remove the connector of the legent which is passed under the shield on the back of the screen.
I'm not able to remove the screen so I would like to know how to remove this shielding or get back the touchscreen connector to be able to replace it.
Once I figure out how to remove this shiled, I may be able to remove the screen too.
But now, I'm clueless (it was 2 in the morning when I gave up).
Maybe, some of you knew the trick to open this phone further.
I'd like to hear about it.
A little up to my post for the ones who did not read it till the end:
I can't remove the connector of the legend which is goind under the shield on the back of the screen.
I would like to know how to remove this shielding or get back the touchscreen connector to be able to replace it.
Once I figure out how to remove this shield, I may be able to remove the screen too.
But now, I'm clueless (it was 2 in the morning when I gave up).
mate it sounds like you have trashed your phone.they are built NOT to be taken apart.They require special tools and process to be repaired. The only thing i would suggest is contacting your insurance company and let them know that your phone was crushed under a car or something and then crush it under the car and you can get it replaced. If you dont have insurance, take some out and make a claim in say a month or two.
Its not an honest thing to do but your phone sounds busted and its the cheapest way of replacing that handset.
Post a pic of it if you can
Unfortunately, I have no rights to post a link or some put some pics.
Something about spam and profile that should be reviewed before being able show any pics.
This device is glued. No specialized tools are able to open it without removing it.
That would mean that the phone cannot be repaired, only replaced. My phone's motherboard was replaced, so at the service stations they should have special tools.
Fixed it!
Bottom right hand corner:
Bend the shielding back just enough to allow you to slip the connector in & then use a little glue to stick it back.
Maybe I was lucky, but my phones working as good as new again
I fixed my Legend
Guys, I know it's been a while since you talked but in case someone else is looking for this info, that's what happened to me:
I cracked the display of my legend and purchased a new one on eBay (roughly 40 pounds) - obviously delivered from Hong Kong but a genuine Samsung (in case you didn't know the Legen's screen as well as most of the AMOLED screens are Samsung's).
Then I used the above information plus some YouTube videos to give myself an idea as to what should I do. The result follows:
I used a hair dryer to heat up the back of the phone (camera and loudspeaker cover). Perhaps I should have been more patient as in the end I decided to use a knife with a very thin blade to lift it and I scratched the plastic and the aluminium body a bit. Anyways - the back clicks in but is glued in addition to that so you have to use both the heat and gently applied force.
Once you remove the back cover (which took me the longest out of everything) you should start removing screws. There's two behind the back cover and six behind the bottom cover (where the battery is). At this stage you don't have to remove all the screws - the bottom two, the one behind the IMEI and the one under the VOID sticker hold the main board but the two screws sitting deeper inside the phone's body hold the front buttons so you may leave them for now.
Now comes the trickiest part so read carefully: the main board is held inside the unibody by the screws (which we already removed), but is also glued right below the camera lens and along the sides. You should probably heat it up as much as you can and for a long time. I decided to do it the hard way. My dislplay was already cracked and it's the most delicate part of the phone so I said "whatever" and used the same knife as before - moved it alongside the screen (pushed it in gently from the front) until there was no resistance (the glue let go). Then I pushed and I heated the thing up and pushed and tried from every angle until finally the board slid out of the unibody. I hope you'll find it easier then I did as it seems that everyone describing it found it quite doable.
Now everything becomes easy-peasy. Remove the remaining screws to put the buttons aside (you'll have both the actul buttons and the tiny board with sensors - the latter sticks to the screen but once you remove the connectors, yu can take it off too). All the connectors are quite easy to remove if you hav a needle or something (just pull them out gently). I didn't worry about noting which is which as ther is practically no way you can mix them up - they're very different.
The rubbery plastic black surrounding of the board clicks in, so once you find the right spots you can lift them gently and take the thing off. You'll be left with the display covered by the shielding from the top and a thin metal board from the bottom. You have to remove two more screws to disconnect the main display plug.
And the final bit (that's where the thread's author had a problem I believe). My display was cracked but the shielding - fine. These two are glued together so I had to find some space for my finger nail and lift the shield. By slowly and gently pulling it apart I detached one from the other - and had to do the same thing with the metal board. Don't forget there's some extra stuff to remove from the back of the display - they're all glued but the glue will remain fresh enough for you to glue them again - this time to the new screen. The same applies to the front shield. I hope you won't let any dust sit on it in the meantime. You should have a screen protector on your new display if you bought it like I did. Remove it now and the display will be happy to stick to the old front shield just as if it was always there. The metal back will also fit in.
Now you can go through the above process backwards - just remember to connect all the connectors.
What I didn't do: I didn't use ANY glue putting the phone back together. As an effect the front shield is sticking out a bit (doesn't sit in the unibody tightly). It doesn't affect the phone itself but it gives you the funny feeling that something isn't 100% right. But I prefer that than screwing something up with a misuse of glue (glue can be disobedient).
The most important piece of information: the phone is working 100% correctly as if it was never disassembled by an amateur. Apart from two scatches on the back, the VOID sticker missing, the front sticking out slightly (less than a mm) and the missing battery slider (which I forgot to put back in and didn't bother to repeat the whole process for the sake of it) - there is nothing wrong with the phone. So if you ever crack you ever crack your Legend's screen - you can try fixing it yourself if you have the courage.
I would like to see some photos too But I'm never gonna take my phone apart - can't see the point
Foto's
Nice thread, i myself am wondering, if a better gsm antenna can be fixed inside the phone. and connect them to the 2 connections.
Do you have any pictures of the inside housing etc?
I have looked high and low for Legend disassembly instructions in order to replace my screen (Digitizer) I finally found instructions on how to disassemble the HTC Legend and replace the screen thanks to allerien's post in the XDA forums 11th March 2011, 07:17 PM. There are no YouTube videos yet that I know of that actually show u how to remove and replace the screen so this is a step by step guide tat will help alot of user's including me.
Thanks Allerien
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I fixed my Legend
I cracked the display of my legend and purchased a new one on eBay (roughly 40 pounds) - obviously delivered from Hong Kong but a genuine Samsung (in case you didn't know the Legen's screen as well as most of the AMOLED screens are Samsung's).
Then I used the above information plus some YouTube videos to give myself an idea as to what should I do. The result follows:
I used a hair dryer to heat up the back of the phone (camera and loudspeaker cover). Perhaps I should have been more patient as in the end I decided to use a knife with a very thin blade to lift it and I scratched the plastic and the aluminium body a bit. Anyways - the back clicks in but is glued in addition to that so you have to use both the heat and gently applied force.
Once you remove the back cover (which took me the longest out of everything) you should start removing screws. There's two behind the back cover and six behind the bottom cover (where the battery is). At this stage you don't have to remove all the screws - the bottom two, the one behind the IMEI and the one under the VOID sticker hold the main board but the two screws sitting deeper inside the phone's body hold the front buttons so you may leave them for now.
Now comes the trickiest part so read carefully: the main board is held inside the unibody by the screws (which we already removed), but is also glued right below the camera lens and along the sides. You should probably heat it up as much as you can and for a long time. I decided to do it the hard way. My dislplay was already cracked and it's the most delicate part of the phone so I said "whatever" and used the same knife as before - moved it alongside the screen (pushed it in gently from the front) until there was no resistance (the glue let go). Then I pushed and I heated the thing up and pushed and tried from every angle until finally the board slid out of the unibody. I hope you'll find it easier then I did as it seems that everyone describing it found it quite doable.
Now everything becomes easy-peasy. Remove the remaining screws to put the buttons aside (you'll have both the actul buttons and the tiny board with sensors - the latter sticks to the screen but once you remove the connectors, yu can take it off too). All the connectors are quite easy to remove if you hav a needle or something (just pull them out gently). I didn't worry about noting which is which as ther is practically no way you can mix them up - they're very different.
The rubbery plastic black surrounding of the board clicks in, so once you find the right spots you can lift them gently and take the thing off. You'll be left with the display covered by the shielding from the top and a thin metal board from the bottom. You have to remove two more screws to disconnect the main display plug.
And the final bit (that's where the thread's author had a problem I believe). My display was cracked but the shielding - fine. These two are glued together so I had to find some space for my finger nail and lift the shield. By slowly and gently pulling it apart I detached one from the other - and had to do the same thing with the metal board. Don't forget there's some extra stuff to remove from the back of the display - they're all glued but the glue will remain fresh enough for you to glue them again - this time to the new screen. The same applies to the front shield. I hope you won't let any dust sit on it in the meantime. You should have a screen protector on your new display if you bought it like I did. Remove it now and the display will be happy to stick to the old front shield just as if it was always there. The metal back will also fit in.
Now you can go through the above process backwards - just remember to connect all the connectors.
What I didn't do: I didn't use ANY glue putting the phone back together. As an effect the front shield is sticking out a bit (doesn't sit in the unibody tightly). It doesn't affect the phone itself but it gives you the funny feeling that something isn't 100% right. But I prefer that than screwing something up with a misuse of glue (glue can be disobedient).
The most important piece of information: the phone is working 100% correctly as if it was never disassembled by an amateur. Apart from two scatches on the back, the VOID sticker missing, the front sticking out slightly (less than a mm) and the missing battery slider (which I forgot to put back in and didn't bother to repeat the whole process for the sake of it) - there is nothing wrong with the phone. So if you ever crack you ever crack your Legend's screen - you can try fixing it yourself if you have the courage.
Isn't it possible to just exchange the glass along with with the digitizer? I myself need to replace the digitizer, because mine went quite unusable after an accident with water..
Either way this was a nice guide which i will make use of!
great info my legend has only a broken digitizer so i will be replacing that soon
Passed out with a protein shake in one hand, brand new Oneplus 2 in the other. Woke up with the OP2 and my pants filled with a thick vanilla protein pool.
I'm special.
I wipe the phone down- not really knowing how bad I had damaged it, just looked like the screen had some of the shake on it at first glance.
[FYI: the phone was powered on it while it soaked in the protein pool for 5 hours- and stayed on. ]
I flick the notification switch and yep, still running. Immediately powered it off (was also VERY hot). I almost considered it a wash and decided to wait for another invite and keep it for parts, but I want to try to repair it.
Knowing my warranty doesn't mean jack at this point- I immediately removed the bamboo back cover, it looked as though looks like someone spilled ice cream all over the backplate and body okate, this thing definitely got a bath.
Voided the white sticker screw along with the 18 others. Removed the ‘un-removable battery’. Then let it dry (big ol’ bowl of rice). I'm not sure made it worse or better as the protein shake was very dense- the internals had hardened delicious vanilla plaque caked all over upon inspection of removing the back plate.
Visually inspecting the shame, the headphone jack had allowed the shake to trip directly into the mainboard, now half way crusted over. Areas of the part of the PCB I could see looked a little bit wet- I dabbed them with an iso pad, then dabbed with lens cloth and decided to let it sit in a rice-bowl again for another day or two..
Day 5 of drying... at this point, I decided ‘screw it- let's see what works. Put the battery back in and powered it on. LTE-working, LCD/touch/buttons, working.. No Camera/WIFI/Bluetooth/Speakers/GPS do not work at all. No MAC addresses for WIFI NIC or BT NIC.
Oddly, text/system notifications created output but it didn't seem to come from the speakers on the bottom. No music players could output anything through the main stereo speakers. Calls (earpiece and mic) worked fine.
I sigh, and stare ate the mess of a brand new OP2. It half-ass works. I almost considered it a wash and decided to wait for another invite and keep it for parts, but I want to try to repair it.
I took all of the internals apart minus the LCD/Digi.
Meticulously cleaned for around 2 hours using iso alcohol for the frame edges, headphone jack, and various other parts- also used a PCB cleaner that is safe for use on various plastic polymers/butyl rubber/whatever.
Got the main PCB and bottom PCB nice and shiney, however the items covered by the poriforated EMI shield I cant get into to clean without either a dremel (yikes) or somehow bending/cutting the top off. Any tips here? I believe the WIFI, BT, and audio amp are stored under here.
At this point, If you looked at the internals you wouldn't notice anything had been spilled into it (other than the water-tamper stickers being red)
I take a blowdryer to the PCBs on low and the interior to quickly evaporate the iso and PCB cleaner for about 15 minutes.
I waited about 3 hours before putting the battery back in.
Now I have working headphone jack, speakers, both cameras, and GPS (and LTE/GSM has always worked so that's fine too). Now the only problems are Bluetooth and WIFI.. again no mac addresses and they do not allow me to toggle them on.
Full system wipe to stock, and I mean ALL the way stock. Wiped the heck out of everything except the boot loader and even flashed the stock boot loader back on. Still cannot enable WIFI/BT.
Does anyone have any suggestions? Word around here is that you cannot buy the logic board, and the only other options is to buy another or find someone who cracked their screen and use their PCB.
Wow. Just wow.
I'd say, just try another round of cleaning and drying.
You might be lucky 3rd time.
Yup, I've just finished self-repairing my Xperia SP.
Basically, I just replaced the battery. But I had originally planned -- and prepared -- to replace the LCD and the touchscreen, too. Because there seems like this "oil spot" about one-third up the bottom of the screen, and sensitivity became too low in the row where the "oil spot" was.
And I confirm: the XSP's steel frame is a beast! It practically provide the rigidity needed by all the small components, so much so that self-repairing the XSP is actually a nice experience.
The LCD is clipped onto a "carrier", which gets fixed to the frame using the two hexalobe screws on the side. The battery was attached to the back of this carrier using two strips of double-tapes, and very easy to remove (and no, you don't need to replace the double-tapes with new strips; the battery fit snugly between the LCD carrier and the PCB).
The camera & speaker are themselves on another "carrier", separate from the LCD carrier.
Here's the video I use for initial disassembly (not mine, but very helpful):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WZacc3HN_bU
Here's a sort-of continuation, how to remove the LCD carrier:
https://youtu.be/oV6jEVXRJfM?t=4m04s
Anyways, after replacing the old battery (which is showing signs of degradation: Bubbles on its aluminum wrap, and an increased thickness -- old battery = 4.0mm thick, new battery = 3.5mm thick), I turned my phone on (ensuring that I haven't damaged something permanently) and... whaddaya know! The oil spot was gone, and sensitivity all over the screen is good again!
(I did lever up the LCD panel and clean its surface with a dry, clean microfiber cloth. Maybe that helped, too.)
Annnd... while at it, I replace the black back panel with a RED one
Anyways, that's a short story from me. Will update if there are any development.
EDIT: I strongly recommend you use a magnetic mat to put down the screws, like this one:
Magnetic mat on Amazon
Why? Because, not only were the screws very small, they come in wildly different sizes! Off the top of my head:
Three top back screws -- small long
Two lower-top back screws -- small short-ish
One centre screw -- very short
Two middle side screws -- very small
Two bottom screws -- slightly shorter than the top screws
PCB screws -- larger thred
LCD carrier screws -- hexalobe small
With a magnetic mat, you can "group" the similarly shaped & sized screws in a square area, and they won't mingle.
.
what sizes of philips head for 3 top screw??, I have problem unscrewing them especially top left-hand-side and top right-hand-side..Im planning to oder new set of screw driver online..But I can't identify the screw size..
Mind sharing the number on your screwdriver??