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Hi all, for those of you that have experienced a totally dead battery you'll know the pain it is to get it going again. I have recently had this happen and decided to post a fix on here.
Lesson #1 Dont let your battery die completely, if you get a low battery alarm, turn your phone right off till you can charge it.
Lesson #2 If your battery dies completely, just throwing it on the charger wont charge it. This is because the Operating System looks after the charging. If your OS wont load, your battery wont charge.
FIX:
After trying various methods on the net, I found a surefire way to jump start your Wizard so you can get it charging.
You'll need : 3 x AAA batteries and 2 lengths of wire and some tape.
I cheated here, I managed to pull a 3 pack AAA battery setup out of a regular Panasonic cordless phone which saved me having to piggy back the batteries.
1) If you dont have a battery pack, you'll need to piggy back the batteries. + to minus on each one so that you have 3 batteries connected to each other with one free + and - side. Use the tape to keep the wires from moving around and getting loose.
2) Remove the battery from the phone.
3) Put a wire from the + side to the top connector of the phone battery connection ( top gold pin, right hand side of phone nearest to the power button )
4) Put the other wire from the - side to the bottom connector of the phone battery connection ( bottom gold pin, right hand side of phone nearest to the camera button )
*** There are 6 gold connections sticking out on the side. Make sure the wires only touch the top and bottom pins. Bend them round if you have to and clip them if needed.
5) Try the phone and it should switch on now. If it does, push the battery back into place while its loading.
6) As soon as you get to the today screen, plug your charger in. Wait about 1 minute and check its charging ( from the battery icon under seconds ).
7) If its charging remove the wires from the AAA battery combo ( in case they explode or something ).
Hope this helps the next poor soul that didnt have time to charge their battery before it died completely. And thanks to all the posters that have helped me out with my problems. Long live the Wizard
While this is a good post, it in not entirely true. If your battery completly dies, you can infact use a standard wall charger that outputs 1AMP or more of power to charge it with, even if you phone wont start. The charger that is included with all HTC devices outputs 1AMP, so they should all be useable. Good post otherwise though!
Thanks ashasaur. When I posted this I did not have access to a standard wall charger. However looking at getting one just in case this happens to me again. HA I hope not.
Thanks for all that advice. In desperation, I have just bought a new battery and was relieved to see my Prophet come back to life, having, yes, let the battery run completely down. (I am away from home, where I left my charger as the Prophet seemed to charge quite happily from a USB port)
If 3 AAA batteries work ok (~4.5 volts), wouldn't it be a bit safer just to connect them to the dead battery for a while, as described above, to give it a bit of a charge, rather than risk the phone, or isn't 4.5 volts enough? Greg
buy a 4.5v 500ma adaptor and it will work
Earlier I was afraid of dead battery and use to turn off my kjam but later I got an idea and purchased one 4.5 v 500 ma wall adaptor($1 only) and cut the end socket and use it to give initial charge.
Earlier I was so much worried about my battery that had to put it in charging point where ever I find a usb port but now seems Kjam battery knows that's why haven't died for 2-3 months even though sometimes I forgot to charge it in night
pawanmehta said:
... purchased one 4.5 v 500 ma wall adaptor($1 only) and cut the end socket and use it to give initial charge
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great idea. Just tried it with an in-car USB power adaptor, but it didn't supply enough oomph. If you follow pawanmehta's advice, you might want to check out this site - USB pin out and lead details - for the correct leads to wire up.
A quick look around the internet suggests that mains to USB power adaptors are available at £4.85 (UK) or $15 USA but I expect a proper search would turn up cheaper items. Greg
It works with a O2 XDA Mini S, but it didnt work at first time: I have to put the cable with the 3-battery-arrangement and the 3.7 1400mAh battery at the same time, it's looks like that it wont turn on if the pins are not pressed, but well, I succesfully boot and now i'm charging (i remove the 3 battery arrangement).
And, I use 3 AA Duracell batteries, I tought it's the same than using 3 AAA, 'cause they use the same voltage (1.5 for common, and 1.2 for rechargeable).
Best regards, and thanks a lot MattyZee, u have my blessings
It works with a O2 XDA Mini S, but it didnt work at first time: I have to put the cable with the 3-battery-arrangement and the 3.7 1400mAh battery at the same time, it's looks like that it wont turn on if the pins are not pressed, but well, I succesfully boot and now i'm charging (i remove the 3 battery arrangement).
And, I use 3 AA Duracell batteries, I tought it's the same than using 3 AAA, 'cause they use the same voltage (1.5 for common, and 1.2 for rechargeable).
Best regards, and thanks a lot MattyZee, u have my blessings
hey everybody...
i read the thread a few days ago and thought...okay good to know but that will never happen to me now that i know that it shouldnt...
now...a few days later...of course it happenend...
soo...i tried everything. but the things are complecated to do alone...with all the wires and then pushing the power button and installing the battery again...
so i had to give up...
but here is another way how to do it...
it is already beein mentioned i think...
use the 3 battery combo, 2 wires at both ends, take out the dead battery and put the - wire to the pin at the very botton (the bin at the longer end) and the + at the other end.
hold that just for about a minute (i think i just holded it for 10 seconds but a minute would be better maybe...)
and then put the battery back in and it should start...
oh and i tried to use a 1400mA wall adapter and it didnt worked...
but try to avoid that...
it is not a nice situation seeing youre wizard dieing like that...
and at first i thought it is not the battery...i thought it is broken...
so avoid it if possible...
thats it...
What is length wire (sorry if it's a idiotic question)
please help
btw, I have O2 xda mini S.
And can I use 3 AA batteries????
thanks a lot,it worked
once again THANK YOU
You guys are geniusses It started, but when it started I put the charger in it fro my laptop and waited a while (removed batteries) then i saw it was charging but when I was waiting some more it yust fell off !! So i started it up again with the AAA's and then putted charger back in and i was using the phone, I saw it was charging and I looked @ lvl and it kept on saying it was on 0 % :s Then i thought let me wait a while and i stopped using it so it fell off again, what did I do wrong twice ?
Thx
A 9v Battery (The type you find in smoke alarms) does the job as well.
ONLY connect it for a couple of seconds, but repeat about 5 times then connect it upto a usb data lead and after about 10 seconds it should kick in.
After its been charging for about 30 mins turn the Wizard on.
Have succesfully used this method on 3 Wizards now and it works every time!
Don't Forget To Put The Battery Back In Your Smoke Alarm!
Exceptional
Thank you. I have a Kaiser that I love, and was just handed a Wizard that wouldn't even start. This post let me boot it and start the charge.
Thanks.
Apologies for bumping an old(ish) thread but I've tried this jump start method and seem to be having no luck with it.
I've tried the methods suggested, using 3 AAA batteries didn't seem to do a thing for me, but I've had a slight result using one of those square 9V batteries; the camera flash comes on and the screen lights up but wm doesn't begin booting up (the screen just stays blank but lit).
I've also tried attempting to give the battery some charge using the method mentioned earlier but that too doesn't seem to be working either.
The battery in question is brand new (one of those extended ones with a higher mAh) and I'm assuming it's arrived with zero charge in it.
Does anyone have any suggestions?
(incase anybody is wondering, the wizard boots up fine using a different battery which is charged)
edit: if it's of any relevance, the wizard's a g4.
edit2: I've tried charging it with the wall charger but all that seems to happen is a red light flashes once every 5/10 seconds and the screen flickers on then off
Update: After numerous attempts at jump starting, my wizard now refuses to charge whatsoever.
The light flashes orange (I did follow the guide posted on the wiki about that but it had no effect) but it comes up saying it's charging onscreen, however it simply doesn't charge (the battery life just slowly drops).
It's the same using either the wall charger or usb.
I did try taking the battery out/doing a soft reset/doing a hard rest but to no avail.
Would I be correct in assuming my wizard's now broken?
I'd just donated my blueangel to a friend too as I thought I'd no longer need it, but now i'm left without a phone
I've found a standalone battery charger on the internet for around £10 or so, I might give that a try. If it works, I'll have my wizard back, albeit without being able to charge it while it's switched on. On the plus side, it would eliminate the need to jump start it ever again though.
wizard resurrection...
This problem is quite a hard time for the wizard users...
I know many users with 2 or 3 wizards in the closet because they just died, and there are none powered batterys around...
I hope this can help someone, somehow...
WIZARD RESURRECTION
Props to all!
undertuga
How did u make out with the battery issue? I have the same prob and the light on the camera lights up but i can't get it to charge and i'm using a new battery any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks
Just to repeat a comment made by ashasaur 12 months ago. You need a 1amp charger. Although someone had success with a 500mA charger, that wouldn't work for me, whilst a 1000mA (1Amp) charger worked to recover a completely discharged battery.
A new battery should not have zero charge. NiMH batteries do not like being left around fully discharged and, to the best of my knowledge, are not supplied discharged.
hi there.
shortly-i have this phone with no orig. usb cable and with no wall charger. it was friend of mine phone actualy. given to me with dead battery (i am not sure but i have trouwn it away long time ago)
first I did was to wait until friends of mine from china had sent to me 2 batteries compitable with the phone. what i discovered is that a normal ordinar usb cable cant charge the phone's battery it only can connect to the pc.
second what i did is this: i found my old charger from a very old panasonic cell phone and had a try to make the charging process with the simply contacting corresponding pinouts of the battery to the +&- of this same charger (somehow i dissasembled the plug of that charger and it became more "comfortable" to get in touch to the pinouts of the specific cingular's battery)
that unordinar way i did discovered that i can charge these batteries even not sure how much appropriate that other brand wall charger is. It seems its pretty much the same as a power characteristics.
Meanwhile (as i dont use this phone) i had some free time to search the net and to have better idea about that strange unordinar power charging matter with that model of a phone. The situation is that i cant find a place nearby me to buy a cheap usb and wall charger and become using this nice device finaly.
And also i dont want to buy these cable things before clearly understand why this happens ..
I did try also to charge this phone with a HTC brand wall charger but no sucsess again cause it seems this wall charger is for other htc phone (even same mini usb plug and same characteristics)
What i need is to have answers by someone very informed about that matter and let me know what exactly is the specific power charging matter (need explanations i mean) with this phone. If sharing some good ideas about how to remake others usb cable or wall charger for geting it work along for me in such a case , i will appreciate this very much
thanks
charge
hi ! please forgive me for my bad english! in this case you can charge your phone in 1 way! you need to procure a motorola or any charger with same socket but attention the charger must have 6 volts and no less than 500 mAh(milli amps)! you cut the wires and one wire put on the + of the battery you will see the signs on the battery an one wire at the - no matter which one. and you need stay with the wires 3 - 4 minutes on the battery ! then you put the battery on the phone it will start and then you cand fully charge it with the usb cable ! good luckk ! i hope my inf will help you!
no
no it doesnt work that way.
what i need is the simple answer : what is so special into the pinouts of htc cingular 8125 wall charger?
thats what i need only. Then I might figure out how to proceed
Thanks anyway
I don't know if anyone else has had trouble doing what I have done, but I've got the Cingular 8125 (HTC Wizard 100), which is also known as the HTC 8125.
1. I bought a car charger at a convenience store for $6 that had the mini-USB plug. It worked like a charm. Never any problem there.
2. I also bought a standard USB to mini-USB cable from the local computer store, because I had lost mine, and it also worked fine for both synchronization and for charging.
3. I bought a second wall charger, buying a standard mini-USB wall charger sold pretty much everywhere cellular phone chargers are sold. It's a common charging port, and this generic worked for me as well.
I'd be interested to hear if anyone has had problems with these types of devices not properly charging the unit.
Even my USB cable for my portable USB hard drive will power my unit.
EDIT: About your problem with it not charging. I had that problem about a year ago, when my battery got extremely old. It wouldn't charge even with the original charger. I just needed a new battery. The batteries get old and stop taking a charge after a certain amount of use. How long this takes depends on how heavily the batteries are used. They, like car batteries, do not last forever.
I had this problem when I had my wiz too. The battery died and drained, and my phone refused to charge it. I took it to an AT&T service center, and they had no clue what the problem was, and they wanted to issue me a replacement (it was a G4, I had a G3, I wasn't about to fiddle with that at the time.) So I asked to borrow a demo device they had there to fix it. I charged my battery on their demo device no problem, got it up to 3%, and finished charging it through my USB cable in the car socket.
It appears to be a sort of one-in-every-few-or-so type condition, but I got hit with it.
seems like noone can tell me if something special inside the mini-USB plug.
i realy cant charge. Very nice device, but i cant make it charging up whit cables.
guys, from up there, say that nothing special about the charging cables, but i trust what i see not what i read.
Perhaps there is a problem with your USB port on the device? USB charging has standards, and all devices that need power from a USB port have the same power pin configuration. Otherwise, they can't call it a USB connection. It would have to be called a proprietary connection, and they would have to change the plug size/dimensions and pins.
If there isn't a problem with your battery (which is the most likely source of your problem), then it may be a loose connection on your USB connector. This happens with a number of devices.
If a sync cable connects to the PC but will not charge the battery, then you definitely have an unusual pin detachment of some sort, or a bad battery.
thanks again..
for pity i was writing a lot to make my recent post and finaly it desapeared cause my session was left.. its funny in some case, but now i just dont want to repeat all what was intended to be posted
i give only the link where you might see why i was assuming that this is a kind of a special matter here with that htc 8125 charging
//pinouts.ru/CellularPhones-A-N/razrv3_charger_pinout.shtml
so, any more help will be appreciated a lot
thanks
SOLVED: HTC Wizard (Cingular 8125) Dead Battery Wont Charge
Dozzen said:
hi ! please forgive me for my bad english! in this case you can charge your phone in 1 way! you need to procure a motorola or any charger with same socket but attention the charger must have 6 volts and no less than 500 mAh(milli amps)! you cut the wires and one wire put on the + of the battery you will see the signs on the battery an one wire at the - no matter which one. and you need stay with the wires 3 - 4 minutes on the battery ! then you put the battery on the phone it will start and then you cand fully charge it with the usb cable ! good luckk ! i hope my inf will help you!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi - Too bad for the OP that asked questions but did not listen to this brilliant post.
I have confirmed that a variation of this method works perfectly! I have an old Cingular 8125 that I have been trying to charge for over a year using various USB chargers and NONE would charge the device.
The reason that this may happen is that the original charger has an output of 1 full amp which is much higher than most chargers. The voltage is the same but you need a charger that can handle such a strong current draw.
Nearly all USB chargers can only handle around 250milliamps - 500milliamps which is about half the power needed to breathe life into a fully discharged battery.
The best solution is to NEVER let the battery fully discharge.
Here are the details of what I did:
1. Find the best match charger of 5-6 DC Volts and ability to put out as close to one amp (1000mA) as possible. I chose an old Sanyo SCP-07ADT that is rated at DC 5.4V at 800mA. The plug can be any type, no need to be USB.
2. Cut the connector off the end of the cable and strip the outer black part up about an inch and then strip the positive and negative (red / black respectively) wires up about a millimeter, just enough to have bare metal ends to touch to a small area.
3. Take your battery out of the phone, look at the back of battery for the + and - marks which correlate to one of the metal connection points on your battery, this is where you will "touch" or "attach" the bare ends of the wires.
4. Plug the charger in making sure not to short your bare leads. Before you do this double check that the OUTPUT of your charger is indeed DC voltage so that you don't hurt yourself. You do not want AC output and it can be dangerous.
Then touch the bare end of the red wire to positive of battery, and black wire to negative terminal of your battery. I held them with my fingers while surfing the web for about five or ten minutes. I had no idea if anything was happening or not but it "felt" like the battery might have gotten just a bit warmer.
5. Unplug the home-made bare wire charger and put battery in your phone. Quickly attach a USB charger or just plug into a USB cable of your computer. I pushed it in and nothing happened at first but finally I heard the standard "bleep" when you plug a USB device in. I knew that I made progress because it never beeped before it took about 30 seconds and several "bleeps" of connecting/disconnecting from USB but eventually the charge light stayed on!
It's been about 30 minutes and I'm up to about 50% charge and been using the phone heavily while charging.
So, in summary... never let your battery discharge below 5% or you can only charge it with an OEM cable rated at 1amp (rare). IF you let it discharge to "dead" then charge for 5-10 minutes with the "wire" method and then charge normally!
Thanks to Dozzen for the original idea!!
Wizard that won't charge
When my Wizard/HTC 8125 goes dead my cure for the battery is to use a 9 volt charger with the wires stripped back also. But, my method is a bit different. I place a standard Christmas Tree light bulb (the newer small ones)in series with the charger wires. Observe the correct polarity. The battery is labeled + and - so that part is easy. By using the small light bulb you are doing 2 things. 1.You can see the slight glow from the bulb and know that proper connection is made. 2. You are limiting the charging current to the battery.
If you get really creative like I did you can solder a couple of small nails or in my case a set of red and black probes to the setup and the points on these nails/probes make for much easier connections. Note.... This method may take a few minutes longer but, is much easier on the battery.
In my experience once the battery is below a certain level NO charger that I plug in will work. I just purchased a used 8125 from eBay and brought it back to life most successfully with this method.
hy there my htc wizard battery whos dead so i charched with a cable with + and - the phone starts but when i try to connect to a usb or a adaptor it doesnt charge anymore it show me the charge icon on the baterry but it doesnt charge the usb works fine it's sync to my pc but it doesnt charge anymore... what sould i do?
So it seems no one touched on what really matters here.
A design flaw, in my opinion. The HTC Wizard cannot recharge via USB unless there is enough power to turn on. The reason is because it requires the OS to charge.
So, what many people already posted are very creative ways to charge your 8125. The easiest and cheapest way, in my opinion, is to use AA batteries.
1) Take two AA batteries and tape together so they are in series. Imagine it like this... [- AA battery #1 +][- AA battery #2 +]
2) Use two wires and tape one to each side of the AA's (one on the + side and another on the other battery's - side since the - of the first battery is connected to the + of the second).
--w-i-r-e--[- AA battery #1 +][- AA battery #2 +]--w-i-r-e--
3) Connect the positive (+) wire to the positive (+) side of the phone. By this I mean the 6 metal pieces that stick out to contact the phone battery. I did it by wrapping the wire around the top most one (or second top most, it's been over a year since I've done this.).
4) Connect the negative (-) wire to the negative (-) side of the phone. Again, bottom most or second bottom most (see #3).
5) Insert phone battery while the wires are still in and connected to the two AAs.
6) Let the power flow for 30 seconds or so and then try turning your phone on. This part is the important part because you cannot use a USB to mini-USB connected to your computer to charge the phone unless the operating system can function. Meaning, it needs to be turned on first.
7) Once the phone is on, plug in the mini-USB part and connect it to a computer. I'd recommend getting at least 5% battery before disconnecting the AAs, seeing as you need to be able to start up your phone long enough for the OS to boot. Once the OS boots, you can fully charge it through a normal USB to mini-USB connection on any computer.
old post but just wanted to say thanks. Used the wire to battery method and got phone turned on after 2 mins of holding wires to battery.
Hello first post here but have been using site for years now
Please Help
The battery on my Hd2 will not charge. The Light on the phone is orange when charging. The android systems show the phone charging but the charge continues to go down. here is what I have tried and what I do know
Thanks
-This is a Brand new Tmous Phone still in the box ordered from eBay
-I have flashed several roms and all of them think the battery is charging but battery is not charging
-I have tried the "center pin fix" but the battery is in place and the pins look great (new phone)
-Tried many different usb cables ( oem htc cable also )
-Have tried two different batteries and both do the same thing
-Have tried charging phone with sim card out as suggested
I am out of ideas.
-My current Rom is Dorimax-V7.1A- ANDROID VERSION 2.3.7
Have you tried to put WM 6.5 on it again(to see if the problem still exists)?
You should check the amperage of your charger. the mine say 1 amp and 5volts.
yes
HTCHDFERT said:
Have you tried to put WM 6.5 on it again(to see if the problem still exists)?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
did not try but will
I have the exact same problem. It won't charge no matter the charger (tried two OEM) and the battery (tried two OEM). I installed WM6.5 but the problem stays. I thought it was form the voltage controller (possibly damaged by the ICS ROM), because USB sync used to work, but now that will not work as well. The LED also started to flash orange which confirmed my theory
Sometimes it's impossible to tell by looking at it but it's quite possible the pins on the female end (your phone) were damaged. Although it's much more likely the battery itself is toast. You could maybe try one of those knockoff $5 replacement batteries and test it's charging capability.
Worst comes to worse you could just use an external charger.
Can someone verify that the Nexus 7 can operates perfectly fine with the battery removed and only powered by the USB cable? I've read some threads eluding to this, but no one has confirmed. Mine is in the dash of my car so i cant verify this myself. If someone can. that would be amazing! Thank you.
look at the thread right below yours.
Old Guy said:
look at the thread right below yours.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I saw that thread, i was still a bit confused as they were talking about USB DAC and other devices hooked up to me.
I want to make sure data can still be transferred from the same USB cable and such.
Yes, it's possible, but has some side-effects
Yes, it's possible to power the Nexus 7 without battery from a USB-cable, but it involves sending power directly to the battery connection inside the Nexus 7, and it seems to have some side-effects.
The battery is a one-cell lithium polymer, which has a max charge of 4.23 V. I hoped the Nexus wouldn't fry when connecting 5 V, and it has worked fine the few minutes I've tested it. No smell of burnt electronics
Here is what I did:
Tear off the tape around the battery cable. You'll see it's soldered to a pcb-board, and the two black and two red wires are soldered together. The two wires in the middle is probably some kind of data-connection to the battery. Will investigate this further later.
Then I soldered loose the cables, so I could use the battery-connector, and soldered both red and black wires to red and black wires in a USB-cable. Drilled a hole in the back-cover right below the NFC-antenna. The back-cover is filled with all sorts of antennas, so scratch carefully with a knife before drilling. Attached some pictures of the process.
Side-effects I've noticed so far:
- It thinks the battery is at 0% and not charging.
- The clock is reset when you turn off the power. But if you have internet it will update from NTP within a minute or so.
- My computer (OS X) can't detect it anymore. So I suspect it doesn't work in USB device-mode anymore, but I'm able to connect a USB-keyboard with an OTG-cable, so it seems to work in host-mode.
Does anyone else have any experience with this, or any ideas why it doesn't work in device-mode? I'm considering adding a small connector so I can use the two extra wires from the battery to the data-wires of the USB-cable (and disconnect when not in use), and then solder a USB female cable to the original battery. That way I can (hopefully) connect the Nexus 7 to my computer when needed, and possibly analyze what the two extra wires is actually used for.
I have CM for Android 4.2, and Timur's USB-rom, but it's probably not needed for this hack, and I will probably install a stock rom if I get this working properly.
Be careful, and don't blame me if you fry your Nexus (or anything else). Be sure to turn off any fast-charge hacks when the battery is disconnected.
Old Guy - look at the thread right below yours
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Threads are sorted by last post in each thread, so it's impossible to find which one you are referring to. Do you have an url?
Theory worked
I managed to connect the Nexus 7 to my computer again
I'm considering adding a small connector so I can use the two extra wires from the battery to the data-wires of the USB-cable (and disconnect when not in use), and then solder a USB female cable to the original battery. That way I can (hopefully) connect the Nexus 7 to my computer when needed, and possibly analyze what the two extra wires is actually used for.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can confirm that this works. I didn't have any small connectors, so I hot-glued one header-pin and a female connector for a header pin on the data-wires in the USB-cable. Doesn't look good, but it works
When I have it in the car, I disconnect the header-pins on the USB-cable, and connect it to an USB power-source. When I need to connect it to the computer, I connect the header-pins and connect the battery (with the female USB-cable), and a regular USB-cable to the computer.
Sorry to bring up an older thread, but it sounds like the White and Yellow wires of the battery are for data?
if so, if I applied 3.7-4.2 volts on the battery connection and then still had a 5v connection on the USB would this work?
I would like to use Timur's ROM, and have power applied when my car is off (fixed install) for deep sleep and then apply the 5v when the car is on to bring it from the deep sleep. the issues would be faking it to not charge which I am guessing would mean to set the battery input to 4.23 volts to show as being fully charged. then when key on, the 5v would take over and you would still have the 4.23 applied at the battery connection ( probably have a diode on the + side to keep from injecting voltage to that supply
Has any one completed something like this?
The problematic usb port finally gave up on my Nexus 7 (2012). I've opened up it up, connected the black and red wires from a cut usb cable to the 1st and 4th pogo pins without removing the battery. Now charging's fast and stable..
Added: Tried 5v2a charging, it doesn't melt anything.. Fully charged in just slightly over1 hour.
This thread has been great help and a motivator for wiring my Nexus 7 to do a (permanent) dash install.
I've just removed the battery and wired it to a Pico-Box X5-ATX-180 carputer PSU with an adjustable voltage converter in-between to get around 3.9 volts to the tablet. Works great, but I found another drawback.
Like mentioned in a post before me, the battery status will show 0% which I thought wouldn't be too big of a problem. However, at the moment there is an Android update (4.4.3) available and when I try to update it first tells that the battery is too low and that I should connect a charger. So I did, but then it tells me too "wait for the battery to charge sufficiently".
So for anyone reading this wanting to do the same, know that you won't be able to update Android without a battery connected.
I have attached a photo of the tablet running without a battery for those interested.
Rutjes said:
This thread has been great help and a motivator for wiring my Nexus 7 to do a (permanent) dash install.
I've just removed the battery and wired it to a Pico-Box X5-ATX-180 carputer PSU with an adjustable voltage converter in-between to get around 3.9 volts to the tablet. Works great, but I found another drawback.
Like mentioned in a post before me, the battery status will show 0% which I thought wouldn't be too big of a problem. However, at the moment there is an Android update (4.4.3) available and when I try to update it first tells that the battery is too low and that I should connect a charger. So I did, but then it tells me too "wait for the battery to charge sufficiently".
So for anyone reading this wanting to do the same, know that you won't be able to update Android without a battery connected.
I have attached a photo of the tablet running without a battery for those interested.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could use the factory image to update your nexus 7. It's just a bit more work.
Rutjes said:
This thread has been great help and a motivator for wiring my Nexus 7 to do a (permanent) dash install.
I've just removed the battery and wired it to a Pico-Box X5-ATX-180 carputer PSU with an adjustable voltage converter in-between to get around 3.9 volts to the tablet. Works great, but I found another drawback.
Like mentioned in a post before me, the battery status will show 0% which I thought wouldn't be too big of a problem. However, at the moment there is an Android update (4.4.3) available and when I try to update it first tells that the battery is too low and that I should connect a charger. So I did, but then it tells me too "wait for the battery to charge sufficiently".
So for anyone reading this wanting to do the same, know that you won't be able to update Android without a battery connected.
I have attached a photo of the tablet running without a battery for those interested.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What did you use to get the voltage down to 3.9 volts?
the exact thread I've been searching for.
Just completed by initial installation and now troubleshooting various problems.
The biggest being this battery scenario. So from what I've read in this thread is to use a DC-DC power switcher PICO for carputers and run that to the battery leads. How is the boot time though?
I've read that with a low battery, the kernal during bootup takes longer for checks to occur?
I have an idea.....:
If we can switch 12VDC to 5VDC during switched (Key On Accesory) with a regulator.....
we should be able to do the same with a sepearate regulator to switch 12VDC to5VDC during constant (Key off) when the switch voltage is lost.
This would retain the time you mentioned gets lost. Also, how much mAh (current) do you get out of that PICO regulator to the battery leads? The TIMUR kernal for FI-mode wants 1800mAh at least. Currently I'm using a cigarette lighter DC-DC adapter that has 2 ports. (2.1A, and 1A). The Nexus 7 is currently connected to the 2.1A and my HUB is connected to the 1A.
any advice?
Thanks
rezmax said:
Just completed by initial installation and now troubleshooting various problems.
The biggest being this battery scenario. So from what I've read in this thread is to use a DC-DC power switcher PICO for carputers and run that to the battery leads. How is the boot time though?
I've read that with a low battery, the kernal during bootup takes longer for checks to occur?
I have an idea.....:
If we can switch 12VDC to 5VDC during switched (Key On Accesory) with a regulator.....
we should be able to do the same with a sepearate regulator to switch 12VDC to5VDC during constant (Key off) when the switch voltage is lost.
This would retain the time you mentioned gets lost. Also, how much mAh (current) do you get out of that PICO regulator to the battery leads? The TIMUR kernal for FI-mode wants 1800mAh at least. Currently I'm using a cigarette lighter DC-DC adapter that has 2 ports. (2.1A, and 1A). The Nexus 7 is currently connected to the 2.1A and my HUB is connected to the 1A.
any advice?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why go through all the trouble? Just snip off any USB cable and connect to the pogo pins.. This way, you can charge at pogo's speed with any wall charger and still bring your tablet anywhere.
Hi guys just wanted to report i used your trick on my nexus 7 and it worked perfectly!
I used this method to check if the problem was the battery or if the screen was dead and it turned out to be the battery!
Now i have another battery on the way from Ebay.
Thanks again good job!
Hi guys me again,
I want to update the software but it wont let me because battery is on 1% for ever.
BUT i was wondering, what would happend if i simultaneously plug in the mini usb to another usb charger?
would that create some sort of an insane weird circut and burn my tablet?
any thoughts?
thanks!
Im thinking to use the Nexus 7 in car without the original battery. Constant 4.2V from car battery via converter to nexus battery pins and using the usb with ignition to switch the tablet between sleep and normal state. One thing i would want to reuse is the temperature sensor in the Li-ion pack. Has anyone some idea if the two extra wires are directly connected to temp sensor or there is a circuit for it on the battery controller? If so how it could be reproduced so i could use this to monitor the temp in car for example or if anyone knows any usb dongles that i could use for monitoring external temp with android.
So now i hav tryed the nexus without the battery aswell. At first i applyed 5v directly to the little black battery connector. tablet worked but showed 0%. Then tryed desoldering the batteryback from the little circuit and applyed 5v to the actual battery connectors on the circuit. It shows 100% battery and works and also the temperature sensor is working. One issue is that i need to plug in the charger before connecting the circuit to the motherboard, maybe the charger im using is just too weak that cant get the voltage up or something. And another thing is that i left it plugged in for the night and now the percentage goes down slowly as it would be discharging. havent figured out why that is. Maybe someone has tackled this before also?
freakadell said:
So now i hav tryed the nexus without the battery aswell. At first i applyed 5v directly to the little black battery connector. tablet worked but showed 0%. Then tryed desoldering the batteryback from the little circuit and applyed 5v to the actual battery connectors on the circuit. It shows 100% battery and works and also the temperature sensor is working. One issue is that i need to plug in the charger before connecting the circuit to the motherboard, maybe the charger im using is just too weak that cant get the voltage up or something. And another thing is that i left it plugged in for the night and now the percentage goes down slowly as it would be discharging. havent figured out why that is. Maybe someone has tackled this before also?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You supplied power to the protection circuit? I'm surprised that worked.
The battery is probably going down because the protection circuit is designed to prevent over and under voltage. Since you're feeding it 5V and a lithium battery is supposed to max out at about 4.2V it must be trying to lower the voltage somehow. The percentage going down is probably nothing to worry about, but I'd strongly recommend connecting to the battery connector instead, and only connecting it like this when you need to have a certain percentage to do a system update etc. Also be careful with the bare battery, if the two pins short it could catch fire.
Hi i tried that works ,however it doesn't boot when powered i have to turn it on pressing power button,any idea why?
As a car dash its pretty useless now
Just a quick message that I have managed to power my nexus 7 2012 from a USB cable connected to the circuit board that was attached to my dead battery. Battery level indicator is permanently at 100%.
Sort of like the above it involves using the battery circuit board but it is disconnected from the battery.
Step 1: Strip back battery wrapping revealing the board attached to the connector cables (that connects to Nexus 7)
Step 2: Cut the metal strips going from the circuit board to the actual battery part
Step 3: Solder USB cable Positive wire to board pad labelled VP and Negative to pad VG(? not 100% on last one, but it's the other pad)
Step 4: Solder short wire from VP pad to other side of the board onto the ++ pad (that goes to the red wires then connector)
Step 5: Wrap board up with elec/other tape to avoid shorts
Step 6: Connect up and power on
Not sure why the last wire is needed but it didn't work for me without it.
Next step for me is to wire it to the onboard micro-usb
Where is the ++ pad ??
dribbleboy said:
Step 4: Solder short wire from VP pad to other side of the board onto the ++ pad (that goes to the red wires then connector)
Not sure why the last wire is needed but it didn't work for me without it.
Next step for me is to wire it to the onboard micro-usb
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where is the ++ pad mentioned in step 4 ? Can you post some pictures ?
Hi guys!
I have a Galaxy S4 i9505, with original android, and I noticed it's taking a long time to charge the battery. From 15% to 100% takes about 5 hours. I have a tool to measure the current in USB devices (Chearge Doctor, as sold in dx.com, aliexpress.com, etc) . It usually measures 1.4-1.8A. But now, it measures 0.36-0.4A, keeping 5-5.2V. I googled about it and there are some possible solutions, as 1) clean usb connector with isopropyl alcohol, 2) clean usb connector with some product for cleaning electrical contacts, 3) discharge all the battery and charge with cell phone off. I tried all, but without success.
I've also already changed the battery, the charger and the cable. The result is the same.
I don't know if it happend after update to Android 5.0. But yesterday I got a new update from Samsung, to Android 5.0.1, and sometimes I get 0.35-0.6A.
One possible solution would be change the USB hardware, but I'm avoiding to think in this solution
Do you have another idea?
Thank you!!
Try a different USB charger and see what your results are. A sudden drop in amperage like this usually is a sign that the charger itself has failed.
Hi Strephon, thanks for you reply!
Unfortunately, after my original charger, I tried two another chargers, one generic, but a generic that always worked with same voltage and current of original (tested with that tool), and one original charger of my iPad Air 2, that gave me 0.24A.
I've also tried change the USB cable and the battery. In these both case, I used a good cable I have here (tested before) e a new battery, thinking it could be the problem. The battery keep the charge normally, when it reaches 100%, so I think it isn't the problem.
Another idea?
Thanks!
Up :good:
My method is download the app "Galaxy Charging Current" from Play Store. This way I can see which one of my USB cables and/or charger is faulty.
If all of the USB cables and chargers are giving you the same results, your S4's USB port itself might be the one who is faulty.