Related
My wiz (which I love) has developed a loose usb port. It is out of warranty (of course!), and it is not the first MDA to have this issue (I returned 3 over that past almost 2 years for the usb coming loose). It has not fallen out yet, but charging is a chore, as I need to have my plug in the usb in a special way to get it to connect and charge.
Long story short...
Is there a physical fix I can do on my wiz? Since it is not under warranty, I am not too concerned about taking my MDA apart...so...
Can someone who has had this issue tell me in a step by step manner, how to take the MDA apart and "tighten" the MDA port???
I am hoping to hold out long enough to get the Kaiser...if Tmo ever releases it.
Thank you in advance.
**I have search this forum and even googled...people list sites for $60-100,or say to take the MDA apart and solder it back...I'm broke and wanna go with the second option, but haven't found a step by step about how to actually take the wiz apart and re-solder the usb port**
I'm gonna be unhelpful so if you want to get mad at me, do it now.
I ask what I'm sure others are asking themselves: WHAT have you been doing to your MDAs where the usb port has been getting loose?! Three times?!
I ask not to be embarassing but to help other users from prevent damage to their devices.
Azazello said:
I'm gonna be unhelpful so if you want to get mad at me, do it now.
I ask what I'm sure others are asking themselves: WHAT have you been doing to your MDAs where the usb port has been getting loose?! Three times?!
I ask not to be embarassing but to help other users from prevent damage to their devices.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I am quite pissed at you now...
The first one was a replacement for a crappy refurb they'd sent me, and I sent it back immediately as the port came to me loose. The second one came loose, I believe, just by charging it, syncing it, etc (I went through a phase where I changed OS's every 5 minutes...I am an addict, I admit it). The third one came loose (I suspect) when I was charging it in my car and had to hit the brakes hard, and it went flying to the floorboards. This one I have no clue. It worked fine until 2 days ago. I went to charge it last night and noticed it being VERY tempermental, and a bit loose. I would like to fix it before it gets to the point of being complete crap.
All the rumors say that Tmo USA will be releasing the Kaiser soon, and I really want that phone, and would rather not pay the $100 or so bucks swapping out my MDA through insurance, just to have the Kaiser released 4 days later (Murphy's Law affects me a lot).
So.... Help please!!!!
Ok...so I got my hands on the MDA repair manual...and after some head-scratching my husband and I managed to take the wizard apart. Luckily, only the 4 tiny bracket holding the usb port in broke loose, so it was a matter of soldering them back on. My MDA is back to working again. Yay (and whew!)
akashastrega said:
Ok...so I got my hands on the MDA repair manual...and after some head-scratching my husband and I managed to take the wizard apart. Luckily, only the 4 tiny bracket holding the usb port in broke loose, so it was a matter of soldering them back on. My MDA is back to working again. Yay (and whew!)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had this same problem... Slamming on the brakes when your MDA is connected to the car charger is never a good idea...
Trust me when I say this though. I wrecked my Integra GSR swerving to avoid hitting a deer. The impact of the car hitting the curb severed all the contacts on the USB port and now the USB port has fallen out of the phone completely...
So all I need to do is solder those 4 connectors and make sure the port is positioned correctly over those 5 tiny connectors and I should be fine? My soldering skills are somewhat sub-par so I don't want to risk it unless I know exactly what needs to be done before I do it. I'm sure you can understand that though.
PS>> I too am only hoping that I can keep my MDA working long enough to get a Kaiser. I have been saving but am not quite there yet...
dharvey4651 said:
I had this same problem... Slamming on the brakes when your MDA is connected to the car charger is never a good idea...
Trust me when I say this though. I wrecked my Integra GSR swerving to avoid hitting a deer. The impact of the car hitting the curb severed all the contacts on the USB port and now the USB port has fallen out of the phone completely...
So all I need to do is solder those 4 connectors and make sure the port is positioned correctly over those 5 tiny connectors and I should be fine? My soldering skills are somewhat sub-par so I don't want to risk it unless I know exactly what needs to be done before I do it. I'm sure you can understand that though.
PS>> I too am only hoping that I can keep my MDA working long enough to get a Kaiser. I have been saving but am not quite there yet...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well none of my connectors broke...luckily...so on that matter I'm not sure...however, I had my hubby dismantle my MDA (which I won't lie, was a real b*tch...you think you're breaking it) just to when the port was exposed...he then readjusted the 4 connectors then using silver solder and a gun, made 4 pinpoint attachments. Be very careful...he let the gun get too close and slightly melted the plastic down by the battery release tab...no real damage, but if you aren't careful...
Hopefully someone can better answer you about the procedure...as I said, mine had only come loose and didn't actually break yet.
Good luck on the Kaiser...I'm saving too!!!
akashastrega said:
Well none of my connectors broke...luckily...so on that matter I'm not sure...however, I had my hubby dismantle my MDA (which I won't lie, was a real b*tch...you think you're breaking it) just to when the port was exposed...he then readjusted the 4 connectors then using silver solder and a gun, made 4 pinpoint attachments. Be very careful...he let the gun get too close and slightly melted the plastic down by the battery release tab...no real damage, but if you aren't careful...
Hopefully someone can better answer you about the procedure...as I said, mine had only come loose and didn't actually break yet.
Good luck on the Kaiser...I'm saving too!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. I'm going to take the chance and attempt soldering it back in place and just leave the 5 pin connectors touching where they're supposed to be soldered to. It's already broken and won't even hold a charge right now so really I have nothing to lose. Worst comes to worst, it won't work after I'm done but then again, it doesn't work now.
Wish me luck!!
MDA - HTC Wizard - 8125 Broken USB Port Fix Guide or Repair Manual needed
akashastrega said:
Ok...so I got my hands on the MDA repair manual...and after some head-scratching my husband and I managed to take the wizard apart. Luckily, only the 4 tiny bracket holding the usb port in broke loose, so it was a matter of soldering them back on. My MDA is back to working again. Yay (and whew!)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Seems this is a definite design / manufacturing flaw considering ALL of these USB ports seem to break within an unrealistic time frame.
Help please, still looking for MDA /Wizard repair manual. Know where I can find it?? 10Q
Here you are:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=259242&page=6#post1083526
Some guys charge this file for US$7.99....- -"
let me know how your repair attempt goes. I'm in the exact same situation. Mine isn't completely broken, but it takes LOTS of fiddling to get it to charge, and I can't get an activesync connection at all. Because it still charges, though, I'm guessing that its not completely broken off which will make my repair job slightly easier....
My USB Repair experience
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=2012482#post2012482
Hey all.
As you all know, the N1 has a design defect that eventually causes the power button to break down after prolonged use. It's a design issue related to wear and tear. No avoiding this one. Just how long.
Mine got lucky, lasted slightly more than a year. Couple of days back, it eventually caved in.
So now, I'm considering a few options and I'd like to get some feedback from anyone.
If you were in my shoes:
1) Would you repair?
Cost being approximately $100-120 USD. With the phone almost certain to be scratched as part of the repair process. And with that, being certain that the battery button will someday eventually break down again due to the design defect.
2) Get a new phone NOW?
Cost being approximately $575-600 USD. Probably get either a MT4G or Desire HD/ACE.
Pros being = better screen type for multitouch, more ram, more internal hd, bigger screen, better cpu, better gpu.
Cons being = bad screen tech (LCD = crap colors & battery vs amoled), slow ROM updates unless you run custom (which is do, running CM, but official drivers, etc aren't out till the official stuff moves forward as well.), uber bad battery life (though this is subjective, let's say - average 8-10 hours a day), no 2nd mic for noise suppression, no trackball.
3) Wait for dual cores to come out in the next 2-3 months and get one then.
Which means buying at potentially up market costs because the tech is considered new and supply will probably be less than demand.
Would like to hear some ideas from the community. =) Thanks br0s. And uh, sis'. Lol.
1.Repair
2.Root
3.Flash CM7
4.Sell on Swappa
5.Make money from the repair with some spare to put twards new phone.
6.Buy New Phone.
7.??????????????????
8. Profit!
ez
shanxybeast said:
1.Repair
2.Root
3.Flash CM7
4.Sell on Swappa
5.Make money from the repair with some spare to put twards new phone.
6.Buy New Phone.
7.??????????????????
8. Profit!
ez
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Already rooted. Already on CM. I live in Malaysia. No profit due to shipping costs. Lol.
Maybe you want to try local HTC support? Check the cost for the repair 1st before deciding.
I think repair.. u can trade in low yat plaza .. n1 is still rare in malaysia.. mine got n1 too.. but still lucky no power button issue..
Sent from my Nexus One using XDA App
I sent it to Vodafone Spain technical service (it was still under warranty) and got it replaced by a brand new one.
To avoid a new power button failure, I'm using No-Lock widget and Lock Screen.
I repaired mine myself last week, $40 (aprox) part from eBay, 2 hours work tops and it now works perfectly. I did make some very small scratches in the antenne cover, but I can live with that. Don't regret it in the least, now I'm ready to wait for a dual-core "Google experience" phone...
Besides, once you have the phone open you can make sure the small button inside doesn't move around (glue or small piece of paper), as others have said that that helped in not having the problem again.
lenrek said:
Maybe you want to try local HTC support? Check the cost for the repair 1st before deciding.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There' no support for Nexus One in Malaysia. I called HTC Malaysia already. They said I'd have to send it to Singapore.
are-red said:
I think repair.. u can trade in low yat plaza .. n1 is still rare in malaysia.. mine got n1 too.. but still lucky no power button issue..
Don't think trade in will give me much sadly. Repair will cost me RM350. Was thinking of picking up Desire HD at RM1750. *Sam tong.*
Sent from my Nexus One using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ToxicDude said:
I repaired mine myself last week, $40 (aprox) part from eBay, 2 hours work tops and it now works perfectly. I did make some very small scratches in the antenne cover, but I can live with that. Don't regret it in the least, now I'm ready to wait for a dual-core "Google experience" phone...
Besides, once you have the phone open you can make sure the small button inside doesn't move around (glue or small piece of paper), as others have said that that helped in not having the problem again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I'm considering repairing it on my own. Do you have the process guide? I heard you have to disassemble nearly the entire thing just to replace that board. Was hoping to solder the flex cable if possible. Do share your thoughts, am very keen to hear more.
chowlala, the 3 options given are of different magnitude in terms of objective and cost. Don't get me wrong, I have an N1 with broken power button too.
For now, the best option is to install one of those "power button replacement" software such as AnyUnlock.
If you plan to ditch the N1 later, then wait for the dual core phone. Just buy the phone you like, don't worry so much about the price. And buy the phone online or from Singapore (if not commonly available in Malaysia) coz its definitely cheaper compared to places like Low Yat.
The above is what I will do
colins said:
chowlala, the 3 options given are of different magnitude in terms of objective and cost. Don't get me wrong, I have an N1 with broken power button too.
For now, the best option is to install one of those "power button replacement" software such as AnyUnlock.
If you plan to ditch the N1 later, then wait for the dual core phone. Just buy the phone you like, don't worry so much about the price. And buy the phone online or from Singapore (if not commonly available in Malaysia) coz its definitely cheaper compared to places like Low Yat.
The above is what I will do
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Agreed. Very true.
Everybody would love to save money obviously.
I can live with the broken power button. I believe it's only a matter of getting used to it. And I'm pretty alright with ADB and running mods on the phone. So updating, etc will still be fine. And I'm currently using the Lock Widget, with Sleep on the pull down notification bar and long press Home to sleep the phone as well. Lol.
Only concern now then would be, how to power up the phone when I'm not near a cable. Anyone got any ideas?
I would love to keep the n1 if I can figure this one out. As of this point, everything is still alright as long as I'm near a cable. But if the phone hangs when I'm not near a cable.
That's a problem. =(
You certainly can live without the power button (I did for over two months) but it is a pain every time you have to power it off/on. The problem became too bothersome for me when needing to fly and when needing to swap sim cards, and not always having a pc at hand.
In any case, the replacement process does need for the entire phone to be disassembled, but the guide at ifixit was detailed enough for me. I did try to solder or otherwise fix the cable before replacing it, but it was impossible (very small, short, flexible and, in my case, it was completely severed). To see the cable you don't need to dismantle the whole phone, just the battery cover and the screws behind it.
After changing the board, I used some cable coating to make sure the button sat firmly and that cable was under as little stress as possible. Lets hope this time it lasts more than 8 months.
Can someone explain what the method is to reinforce the power button (with pictures if possible)?
Also, does this apply to the volume buttons too? On one of my refurbs, the top volume button got unresponsive and was probably dying the same way these power buttons do.
EDIT: didn't see you post before I did. I wonder if it's possible to secure the power button and volume button boards in a way that prevents stress on the cables.
I've been "living" without a power button for more than 4 months now, using a combination of "no lock" and "lock 2.0" to turn the device on and off.
As for the reboot issue, i always have a usb cable at hand and a small portable usb/dc charger when there's no laptop around.
PS I'm on stock.
I don't know of there being a generally accepted way to reinforce the power button. If you search you'll find very different ideas and opinions.
I think that the problem is that the button in the board rests over a metallic support that is part of the structure of the phone. However, the button just rests there, and depending on how you press the power button on top it can move around stressing the cable in the process. After spending some time with the phone open, I think that any solution that fixes the button in its place (glue, paper, o cable coating like I used) should help in reducing cable stress and extending its life. In any case, I don't think any of these solutions are permanent and eventually the cable will break again.
As for the volumen buttons, I have not heard about problems with them as they are are much better supported and there is no movement, cable stress or anything in that part of the phone. If you are having problems with them, maybe it's just dust or something else that got into your phone?
I'm still using widgets and trackball wake (I'm in CM7, so...), just to extend the useful life of the button as much as possible.
elio said:
I've been "living" without a power button for more than 4 months now, using a combination of "no lock" and "lock 2.0" to turn the device on and off.
As for the reboot issue, i always have a usb cable at hand and a small portable usb/dc charger when there's no laptop around.
PS I'm on stock.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I've got trackball wake and lock widgets and stuff. But I can't be carrying around a usb cable and charger all the time. Lol. I have a set in my car though.
OJ in Compton said:
Can someone explain what the method is to reinforce the power button (with pictures if possible)?
Also, does this apply to the volume buttons too? On one of my refurbs, the top volume button got unresponsive and was probably dying the same way these power buttons do.
EDIT: didn't see you post before I did. I wonder if it's possible to secure the power button and volume button boards in a way that prevents stress on the cables.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your ribbons in the flex cable are probably fraying. That's what happened with mine. It slowly became more and more unresponsive until one point it just chucked out.
ToxicDude said:
You certainly can live without the power button (I did for over two months) but it is a pain every time you have to power it off/on. The problem became too bothersome for me when needing to fly and when needing to swap sim cards, and not always having a pc at hand.
In any case, the replacement process does need for the entire phone to be disassembled, but the guide at ifixit was detailed enough for me. I did try to solder or otherwise fix the cable before replacing it, but it was impossible (very small, short, flexible and, in my case, it was completely severed). To see the cable you don't need to dismantle the whole phone, just the battery cover and the screws behind it.
After changing the board, I used some cable coating to make sure the button sat firmly and that cable was under as little stress as possible. Lets hope this time it lasts more than 8 months.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm. Very interesting. I'm not keen on opening up the entire unit to fix the flex cable though. And I was at the repair shop when the guy told me the process, and I pulled back. I would go crazy if there was dust UNDER the screen. Hence why I would like to try soldering the cables first. Any idea on how to go about with that?
chowlala said:
Only concern now then would be, how to power up the phone when I'm not near a cable. Anyone got any ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
One of those USB battery pack will do.
e.g. Sanyo Eneloop Mobile Booster
How to Manage a Nexus One with a broken Power Button
Here's how I manage my Nexus One to "PREVENT" the power button failure.
http://www.androidguys.com/2010/09/08/manage-nexus-broken-power-button/
colins said:
One of those USB battery pack will do.
e.g. Sanyo Eneloop Mobile Booster
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, but like I said, would be difficult to carry around. I hate having stuff in my pockets. If only like some sdcard-eject-reinsert or SIM card thing could work. That would be perfect. But of course I'm probably asking for too much already. Haha.
zekers said:
Here's how I manage my Nexus One to "PREVENT" the power button failure.
http://www.androidguys.com/2010/09/08/manage-nexus-broken-power-button/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, that's a really good write up. I read that the instant my power button broke and has helped me reorientate real quick. I highly recommend the article to those who are facing the same problem.
I actually just sent my nexus one in for repair (I'm in Singapore, just bring the phone to the center). I complained about my phone was just a few days out of warranty (3 days) though I had no receipt with me. They waived the shipping fee (S$53.50 since it's an import phone). Got the phone back a week later with a quote of S$41.50 (not bad at all). The only down size is that the technician somehow didn't plug the cable in all the way. Now I have random flash light when booting up the phone and when picking up the call. Might have to open it up to secure the connection or to send it in for repair again (I have 3 moths of warranty for this part anyhow)
Hope it can help. I had the button failure as well. At the time I send the phone in, MIUI was installed and I did not get any complain about that.
popophobia said:
I actually just sent my nexus one in for repair (I'm in Singapore, just bring the phone to the center). I complained about my phone was just a few days out of warranty (3 days) though I had no receipt with me. They waived the shipping fee (S$53.50 since it's an import phone). Got the phone back a week later with a quote of S$41.50 (not bad at all). The only down size is that the technician somehow didn't plug the cable in all the way. Now I have random flash light when booting up the phone and when picking up the call. Might have to open it up to secure the connection or to send it in for repair again (I have 3 moths of warranty for this part anyhow)
Hope it can help. I had the button failure as well. At the time I send the phone in, MIUI was installed and I did not get any complain about that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would send it in if I was in Singapore. Not sure how they'd deal with someone from Malaysia though. Repairs + travel/postage would cost quite a bomb. Though I've seen the board part costing about 30 euros. And I would be quite mad if I was returned a phone that has a random flash of light. Lol.
I thought hardware warranty and software warranty were two different issues? Besides, it's a well documented fact that the Nexus One and Desire suffer the same problem... no?
Maybe I can call in and report the phone as a Desire for repairs. LOL.
Ok, guys
This is my second Iconia that got broken power button in 4 weeks!
First one was returned to the shop within a week (second hand shop with one month warranty) and replaced with another one which was working just fine till yesterday night when my kid pushed the power button (she is just 2 year old skinny girl) and the button got stuck and did not respond anymore.What can I say... too fragile .This button is supposed to be pushed about twenty or so times a day.I never had such experience before.All my portable devices are nice and sturdy and even if i drop them by accident I've never ever got anything more than a scratch.Even though I loved this tablet I would say that this is a weak design point.Too fragile for a device of that class and price tag.
More interesting is to see what Acer's answer would be.I have no proper purchase receipt to claim my 1 year warranty since the item is second hand (mint, but second hand) and if they say they will charge me for the repair I will definitely quit the Acer's camp
I'll get back after call to the tech support
Are you the HULK or related to his family?
This has been mentioned here on the forums several times and the issue boils down to the fact that they've used cheap adhesive to attach the power-button to the motherboard.
It is actually pretty easy to repair yourself, though, just remove all the previous adhesive -- be careful not to scratch anything on the motherboard --, possibly heat the thing a bit with hairdryer or whatever you have in handy, and apply new adhesive while applying pressure to the contacts so that it doesn't come loose again. Just make sure you're using adhesive that is non-conducting! This whole thing takes about 5-10 minutes.
Yeah anyone needing to clean perhaps some rubbing alcohol and a little brush, it evaporates quickly
Sent from my Acer Iconia A500 using Tapatalk
There is a tear down at just do a google search for..
acer iconia a500 tear down tech republic...
opened and fixed ! Instead trying to fix the ugly little thinky I intsalled a new button and connecti it with a plain wire.the mod took a while but I$m sure it will last forevr!!!
Oh, and Acer Japan were not so polite and said that because of my inproper use the button got lose.
They mentioned that the repair would be too costly because they need to change the motherboard...
and the estimte was about 400 USD .Cool isnt it ?The guy on the custmoer support line was perhaps a good guy ....without any technical sence and knowledge
opened and fixed ! Instead trying to fix the ugly little thinky I intsalled a new button and connecti it with a plain wire.the mod took a while but I$m sure it will last forevr!!!
Oh, and Acer Japan were not so polite and said that because of my inproper use the button got lose.
They mentioned that the repair would be too costly because they need to change the motherboard...
and the estimte was about 400 USD .Cool isnt it ?The guy on the custmoer support line was perhaps a good guy ....withowt any technical sence and knowledge
acera500 said:
Oh, and Acer Japan were not so polite and said that because of my inproper use the button got lose.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hah. As if, it's already documented and easy to prove that they didn't attach the button properly. It is not end-users' fault in any way or form.
They mentioned that the repair would be too costly because they need to change the motherboard...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They were just trying to squirm out of the responsibility. They know perfectly well that replacing the button costs about 2€ (including taxes and postage!), it does not in any way or form require replacing the motherboard.
hummm did you get that 400.00 quite by email.. or was it a phone call.
Acer has a fixed 199.99 fee for all repairs on Laptop and tablet computers. The guy you talked to was misleading.. go to there website somewhere it tells about this.. I MYSELF Have called acer about getting a Gateway notebook main board replaces.. 199.99 . I FOUND the board on ebay for 70.00 and did it myself.
the support guy saying up front that you broken is IS VERY Not there way of doing business. They are always we dont know SEND IT IN We will then tell you.....
Call back and talk to another person and Complain ... about the other guy.
good luck
Could you possibly show how you did the repair job? I working on trying to install an external power button, and this would be quite helpful. The tablet is going in the dash of my car, and the power button wont be accessible anymore.
rharms77 said:
Could you possibly show how you did the repair job? I working on trying to install an external power button, and this would be quite helpful. The tablet is going in the dash of my car, and the power button wont be accessible anymore.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, I can't remember the thread where there was pictures of this. But really, it's not difficult. You just heat the old glue so that it comes off easily, you can even scratch it off with something sharp just as long as you're REALLY careful about not scratching the motherboard.
Buy or loan one of those tiny solders clocksmiths use, they're great for small electronics work and a heatgun. Oh, and I still remind once more, whatever glue you're going to use please do make sure it's non-conductive.
Alright, I'll see what I can figure out. I think I've found an alternative to this, so we'll see how it works out. Thank you though.
Acer Iconia A500 Power Buton Came Loose
WereCatf said:
This has been mentioned here on the forums several times and the issue boils down to the fact that they've used cheap adhesive to attach the power-button to the motherboard.
It is actually pretty easy to repair yourself, though, just remove all the previous adhesive -- be careful not to scratch anything on the motherboard --, possibly heat the thing a bit with hairdryer or whatever you have in handy, and apply new adhesive while applying pressure to the contacts so that it doesn't come loose again. Just make sure you're using adhesive that is non-conducting! This whole thing takes about 5-10 minutes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, I was wondering if you could help me fix my tablet like you did yours. I have found LOTS of forums with ppl with this same problem and have tried to fix it myself. I don't know what to do. Some say to solder it back, some say hot glue, I can't even get the mother board all the way off b/c of the black tape/sd card/ whatever thing that's holding it attached right by the HDMI slot. My A500 has had a broken power button since July 2012. I used to plug it in or use a safety pin to reset and when it lit up I would unlock it and keep using it. That worked until the day I let it die completely. Now that it has died completely I Don't know another way to power it on besides using the power button. Could you post pics????
This is going to be basically a review, not a tutorial, of what I experienced after I re housed my R800x in white and the steps I went through to get it done, I have no prior knowledge on the process, I simple "went for it" and had success.
~~ Please Note: Performing this can seriously damage your phone and if done wrong will possibly permanently destroy your device, please read everything and do everything slowly, Please understand you may attempt this at your own risk, you have been warned! ~~
For a good understanding on how to tear your Play apart and not break anything check this video out, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3n5ZfkqhzE
You can find the White Housing I purchased in these 2 links
The outside of the screen (digitizer) as seen in First photo
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Touch-Scree...&otn=2&po=LVI&ps=63&clkid=7007674525043897251
The White Housing Top , Middle plate, Control pad plate and Back as seen in the Second and Third photos
(I have seen a cheaper one since I bought mine, but this is the one I bought)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FULL-Housin...500747?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item27bf9d978b
This link is another R800x thats branded Verizon but I doubt it having the service ribbon sticker (for lack of better words which comes into play later) because they dont show a back view of the Middle plate
http://cnn.cn/shop/sony-ericsson-xperia-play-cdma-black-housing-verizon-branded-p-12588.html
After getting your parts and watching the video you should be where I was at in Photo Four, my phone torn down and the new pieces ready to make this r800x look great.
Photos Five and Six -are close ups reviewing it all.
Photo Seven - is where I started, the touch joy stick pcb ribbon. It was kinda scary thinking if i rip this thing or pull to much that the touch pads wouldnt work anymore, and thanks to ShadowGun I was able to verify they still did. I used the blue tool for prying the phone , to help peal back the ribbon as you see it, you can give it a decent pull with your fingers as you get enough pealed up, try to pull as close to the glued end as possible so you dont risk tearing or something.
Photos Eight and Nine - I had finished moving the touch pad ribbon to the new white control pad plate and started removing the Menu, Start and Select buttons and transferring them to the white plate. Using the blue tool again sorta scrap up the backing to each of the; Menu and Start and Select buttons, it helps to push from the other side on the button a little. You need to try and not to deform the sticker/glue piece that holds the buttons in place or it might Not stick to good on the new plate, a sweat gripping moment that I first thought would just never work but patience does pay off in this step.
Photo Ten - it was all done, that piece at least.
From there I moved onto the the Middle Plate, which required a few steps if you decide you want to swap these out. One in particular that left me clueless for a few days without service, bare with me on this part..
There is a black Antenna sticker on the Bottom half of the Middle plate on your R800X, which has a gold ribbon on its opposite side that finishes a circuit, without this circuit completed your phone will Not have service and dialing *228 will not work your phone will tell you, in a mans voice "The code you have entered is in-correct please check you code and try again" - The first time I heard that I was thinking hmm thats probably not good and Verizon told me "thats not programmed in our system, you should Never get a msg like that or a mans voice" So I had them send me a replacement ( Of course I didnt mention this was all my fault and I re housed it, and thats the real reason I wouldnt go to the store to have it checked out, but that shouldnt matter right )
Upon getting the replacement phone I, for somehow the first time, Noticed the black sticker antenna on the back of the Middle plate. I grabbed my original housing and noticed the sticker antenna on it as well, so I pealed that off and revealed, to me which was previously unseen, this gold ribbon connects a circuit with two terminals on the phones mother board. The gold ribbons two ends slide into a slot on the Middle plate, underneath it to make the connection. I replaced this black sticker onto the new White Middle plate because the back of the L1 and R1 triggers are White and they are Black on the original Vz housing.
Photo Eleven-Shows the back of the New white trigger Middle plate, no black sticker antenna
Photo Twelve-The Middle plate from the Verizon replacement
Photos Antenna 2 and Antenna 3-These are the other 2 antennas also needed for service, be sure to pull those off and place them onto the new middle housing of your new phone.
For the r800i and r800a they have another antenna on the middle plate (I just dont have a photo :crying: I have an r800x) I can tell you at least that if your holding the middle housing and the Antenna 2 is on your right, the r800i/r800a other antenna will be on the left side of the housing.
Photo Thirteen- I wanted the White triggers so I super glued the black sticker antenna back on, worked out pretty good if you ask me, minus my thumb print of course. .
Photo Fourteen- I circled the inside area of the Middle plate where the you can see the opposite side of the gold ribbon that makes the connection with the mother board of the phone in the top half and you can see its not on the New Middle plate in the bottom half of the photo.
If you decide to go ahead and swap the Middle plate, you will need to remove the speakers as well and I cracked my original plate removing the left speaker, they are in there pretty tight, I basically pryed up on them in anyway that I wasn't destroying any part of them. As seen in Photo Fourteen
In Photo Fifteen I was now ready to replace the Top half of the phone and put the new Digitizer on. You wont need any extra glue here, the New White Half of the housing comes with a clear plastic film on it (sorry I had already removed before I took the photo) that was protecting some glue, thats seems to be holding up pretty good a week later and I dont think it will ever come off. Once you have replace you new Digitizer on the new Top half of the White housing, you are ready to reverse the steps seen in the Video linked at the beginning , once you have completed that you will be enjoying your newly housed in luxurious White and Silver Xperia Play as I am in the Final Photos.
I hope this helps, this was the first time I tore a phone apart physically and might have my "names of pieces" wrong but I tried to explain it in a way that makes sense and simple to look at. I do wanna make a video or something because I think anyone looking to do this would benefit more from a better "visual tutorial" but I dont have much time as id like to and this should serve good.
I hope in anyone who decides to go through with this, and enjoys having a white Xperia Play like I have
That looks awesome!!! Mind taking a couple photos of the screen and with it powered on to see how good this after market screen is? Awesome job and the white looks nice and clean.
I bought my Xperia Play in white so this doesn't apply to me. But you did a great job there ! looks brand new !
jgregoryj1 said:
That looks awesome!!! Mind taking a couple photos of the screen and with it powered on to see how good this after market screen is? Awesome job and the white looks nice and clean.
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Click to collapse
I can definitelty take a few photos, I only replaced the outside of the screen, the actual lcd is the same from when I got the phone, the after market digitizer is just as clear an still allows the screen to keep its nice crisp image, Ill take a few photos later on though and update OP.
sufy1000 said:
I bought my Xperia Play in white so this doesn't apply to me. But you did a great job there ! looks brand new !
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Thank you! I wish Verizon had offered it in white but figures they didn't, I makes it all that much more mine now though.. custom rom , kernel, and now housing I like it so much more.
Thats sweet nice write up. I'll probably do mine later this year or next year after the case and screen gets worn down and scratched up a bit more.
Thanks for this,
Would you reccomend cheap cases as I have seen diffrent colours (blue,orange) which I wouldn't mind trying.
Thanks
AloushA said:
Thanks for this,
Would you reccomend cheap cases as I have seen diffrent colours (blue,orange) which I wouldn't mind trying.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your welcome, Do you mean an actual case for the phone or a new housing?
Sent from my R800x using xda premium
Thank you, good sir!
I really appreciate your work here and I'll use this guide as soon as my housing arrives.
I will be doing this very same project in a few days. What is the use of the black sticker? If i break it will my Play still work? Please reply
androidtechdaily said:
I will be doing this very same project in a few days. What is the use of the black sticker? If i break it will my Play still work? Please reply
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The black sticker completes a circuit that is needed for service. Idk exactly what circuit it completes but the sticker has a gold pcb type ribbon on it that makes contact with two pins on the motherboard. Without the black sticker in place your phone will boot with no service. I didn't find out until after the fact and if you look in my photo where I glued the sticker back on you can see its a little mangled but glued it down flat and my service is just as good as it always was . Well as good as 3g can be lol .. But to answer your last question as long as you pull the sticker off slowly and don't rip it you should be fine. The gold ribbon on the bottom half just can't be torn in half or the circuit won't complete. But it peeled off without tearing for me, just take your time and you should be good to go.
Sent from my R800x using xda premium
Great job mate!
How would You describe the operation difficulty from 1/10?
Ps. I have experience with w995 full rehousing and some others mobiles.
Hi, i wish to know what is beneath this 2 black square stickers marked in red circles, and what is their function.
Thanks
Great job, will keep this in mind, white looks so good, version didn't have that option
Sent from my little GIZMO ``\[©_o],,
I have the black one Xperia Play but i bought me the White Cover by amazon for 34,99€ (Complete and Original) But i dont think that i can do this without brick my phone ((
0mega007 said:
Hi, i wish to know what is beneath this 2 black square stickers marked in red circles, and what is their function.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is there a screw begind the stikers, holdding the l and r buttons hardware?
us there only black / white available?
Sent from my cm_tenderloin using XDA
Ill reply to everyone this evening!
Sent from my R800x using xda premium
shakalek said:
Great job mate!
How would You describe the operation difficulty from 1/10?
Ps. I have experience with w995 full rehousing and some others mobiles.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I dont think Im best to give you a good 1/10 rating, this is the only re-house Ive done, it wasn't to bad I suppose though. I think if you have some experience with the process then you shouldn't have to much trouble
ioo7 said:
Great job, will keep this in mind, white looks so good, version didn't have that option
Sent from my little GIZMO ``\[©_o],,
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I agree, Verizon should've offered the option, but their to busy releasing phones that they dont plan to update...
evo_racer said:
I have the black one Xperia Play but i bought me the White Cover by amazon for 34,99€ (Complete and Original) But i dont think that i can do this without brick my phone ((
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you want to add me on gtalk I can help you if you decide to go through with it, I dont think you will brick it though
0mega007 said:
Is there a screw begind the stikers, holdding the l and r buttons hardware?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The sticker is covering up the actual buttons on the phones mother board that are L1 and R1 triggers. The L and R triggers are connected with metal rod, wound up with a small spring.
Nhialor said:
us there only black / white available?
Sent from my cm_tenderloin using XDA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ive seen orange XPlays but I didnt see any housing's in other colors then white and black, but I only did a search for White specifically though.
216Monster said:
The sticker is covering up the actual buttons on the phones mother board that are L1 and R1 triggers. The L and R triggers are connected with metal rod, wound up with a small spring.
But if this stickers are removed, would the buttons fall off or stop working?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
veeery nice man
i've changed my digitizer 2 times , on first time , i've broke my digitizer and on second time i succeed
This is a picture of a circuit board from an LG WCP-700 Qi charger. It makes a very annoying beep, but I can't figure out what is making it. My best guess so far is the part labeled 331. Any help would be appreciated.
BadBoyNDSU said:
This is a picture of a circuit board from an LG WCP-700 Qi charger. It makes a very annoying beep, but I can't figure out what is making it. My best guess so far is the part labeled 331. Any help would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is the beep that loud? If you find out, be sure to post it here. Mine is on it's way.
That looks like it. I'll certainly take mine out when it arrives in a few days, if you are too afraid to yank it wait and I'll let you know how it turns out.
I'd rather have a dead charger than a loud annoying one
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
Might want to check this out. Someone stated that they took it out and it's dead.
I have the same question, I got the case open expecting this to be easy but I'm not 100% sure what to pull off the PCB. I think you are right that it has to be the part labeled 331. There is just not anything else that it could be.
That said I'm not willing to pull it without some confirmation. Maybe somebody here with more EE experience can tell us for sure.
I don't get my nexus 4 until tomorrow, maybe once I have it I can get the charger to beep and listen for where the sound is coming from.
Apologies for being slightly OT (although I'll be looking to do this when I get mine).
I'm struggling to find a supported voltage range in any specifications for this pad - I'm UK based and need either an adaptor or convertor depending on the range.
Could someone who has one let me know what the specs are please?
How did you get it open??? I've been trying for a week now and have all but ruined the bottom ha! A "How To" would be appreciated!
Jester23 said:
How did you get it open??? I've been trying for a week now and have all but ruined the bottom ha! A "How To" would be appreciated!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The 4 little rubber feet on the bottom pull out and there are 4 small Phillips screws underneath.
I had to use a small screw driver to pry up on the feet, it felt like they might rip but they all came out undamaged. Once those screws are out the top and bottom are still held together by a couple of snap-tabs in the middle of the long sides. I was able to get them apart with a little prying and again nothing broke even though it felt like it might. The PCB is held on by 4 obvious Phillips screws.
Sorry I don't have any pictures and can't take any until after I get home from work later.
CodeMonkey said:
Apologies for being slightly OT (although I'll be looking to do this when I get mine).
I'm struggling to find a supported voltage range in any specifications for this pad - I'm UK based and need either an adaptor or convertor depending on the range.
Could someone who has one let me know what the specs are please?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here.
brettray said:
The 4 little rubber feet on the bottom pull out and there are 4 small Phillips screws underneath.
I had to use a small screw driver to pry up on the feet, it felt like they might rip but they all came out undamaged. Once those screws are out the top and bottom are still held together by a couple of snap-tabs in the middle of the long sides. I was able to get them apart with a little prying and again nothing broke even though it felt like it might. The PCB is held on by 4 obvious Phillips screws.
Sorry I don't have any pictures and can't take any until after I get home from work later.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, mine is different then... I got it from Amazon and its a Verizon one and the bottom is all one solid rubery unit. I saw the 4 posts with screws when I pry it open but couldn't get to the screws.
Thanks!
Instead of pulling it or jacking up the PCB trying to disconnect, could you maybe just drown the thing in some sort of epoxy? if not muting it, may at least muffle it some
Check the ZENS Qi wireless chargers, no beep and work great!
Jean2000 said:
Check the ZENS Qi wireless chargers, no beep and work great!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I saw them and would love to but not available in Canada or the US it looks like...
Jester23 said:
I saw them and would love to but not available in Canada or the US it looks like...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They are now...!
check the store on wpcentral website
Jean2000 said:
They are now...!
check the store on wpcentral website
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looks like OOS currently.
Neo42 said:
Instead of pulling it or jacking up the PCB trying to disconnect, could you maybe just drown the thing in some sort of epoxy? if not muting it, may at least muffle it some
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've tried putting my finger over different parts of the PCB and the letting it beep, including "331", and nothing I do lessens the volume. That's why I'm baffled on what part is the actual speaker.
The part labled 331 looks like an choke/inductor to me. I wouldn't remove it...
edit: do you have a picture of the other side of the PCB?
Luxferro said:
The part labled 331 looks like an choke/inductor to me. I wouldn't remove it...
edit: do you have a picture of the other side of the PCB?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The only things on the back side of the PCB are the two LEDs at the top. I am beginning to think that the sound is coming from the coil itself, like it is performing double duty as a charging coil and as a speaker coil.
BTW, I got my phone today and can confirm (as has been said elsewhere) that this charger works perfectly for charging the nexus 4. Well... expect for the loud beeps.
Jester23 said:
OK, mine is different then... I got it from Amazon and its a Verizon one and the bottom is all one solid rubery unit. I saw the 4 posts with screws when I pry it open but couldn't get to the screws.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just for reference here are some pictures of my charger, so that you can see the screw locations. Mine is also Verizon branded and came from amazon.
brettray said:
Just for reference here are some pictures of my charger, so that you can see the screw locations. Mine is also Verizon branded and came from amazon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome, turns out the plugs were there the two I had tried to pry out tore making me think they did not come out. So, now just to figure out where the beep is coming from!