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It seems as though a few weeks ago my phone started draining its battery faster then ever before. I've been beating my head against the wall trying to figure out why.
My stupid question of the day is whether a full SD card can increase power consumption. I don't think so but maybe there's more work being done on file system or something. Anybody have any technical explanation pro or con?
I am currently running midNIGHT ROM v5.5 BYOR and have been since its day of release.
I know there are threads on how to reduce battery consumption and I've read them. I know that my bright screen is a problem as is having 2 Exchange push accounts. But I've had these settings since I got my phone last fall and won't give this up.
Thanks in advance.
(My first thread. Hope I did it right)
Unless you are accessing the files on the SD card it shouldn't use any extra power, regardless of how much is on the card. It's non-volatile which means it doesn't require any power to retain data.
I'd look at any additional apps you've installed, and if signal strength in the area has changed in the last few weeks.
Or, your battery could be dying.
poit said:
Unless you are accessing the files on the SD card it shouldn't use any extra power, regardless of how much is on the card. It's non-volatile which means it doesn't require any power to retain data.
I'd look at any additional apps you've installed, and if signal strength in the area has changed in the last few weeks.
Or, your battery could be dying.
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Click to collapse
Thanks, you're confirming what I know to be true. Back in the day we called it disk thrashing as the hard disk would work harder as it became full and swaps of virtual memory became more frequent due to low disk space. Wondering if there could be such a thing in Android.
have you downloaded spare parts or battstat to try to see whats using so much power? any new applications installed that may be running in the background?
swear0730 said:
Thanks, you're confirming what I know to be true. Back in the day we called it disk thrashing as the hard disk would work harder as it became full and swaps of virtual memory became more frequent due to low disk space. Wondering if there could be such a thing in Android.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Even if the sd card took power, disk thrashing wouldn't be a factor. Disk thrashing happens because as the disk gets full the OS has to scatter one file over more and more little remaining places. So the fragmentation sky rockets, which is a really big deal on disks with actually moving parts.
Nothing moves to go from place to place with your card, so fragmentation doesn't matter. Accessing the next, first, and last portions are just as fast.
Finally decided to buy a new laptop to replace my old one. It came with Windows 8 (x64) pre-installed and 8GB DDR3 physical RAM.
My question is: Is it worth using ReadyBoost on the system?
Currently it only has a standard 5400rpm HDD, and an SSD isn't an option for the time being. I have a 16GB Class 10 UHS1 MicroSD card which I had dedicated to ReadyBoost, but after some digging, it seems like ReadyBoost is pretty much useless if the system has more than 1GB of physical RAM.
Sent from my GT-N7105
ReadyBoost is potentially useful with any amount of RAM, but the point at which it becomes useful varies depending on usage. If you only ever run one 2MB install footprint / 5MB working set program on Windows, 1GB of RAM is plenty and ReadyBoost won't help you; SuperFetch will happily cache that program in the handful of spare RAM that the system already has. If you run a ton of background processes that use up 6GB of RAM at all times, and then periodically want to run a program that has a 10GB install footprint, then 16GB of ReadyBoost (which is just SuperFetch cache) will dramatically improve the load times for that program.
Thanks for that. I've had my lappy for more than a month now and my RAM usage rarely goes above 20% (and never goes above 24%) so I don't think RB is necessary for me.
I also read on somewhere that ReadyBoost can wear out a device through constantly writing to it. Is that true? Can ReadyBoost do more harm than good?
Sent from my GT-N7105
I dont use RB, nor superfetch either..truth is i disable all but bare essentials.
Ive also heard that rumor, about excessive wear. Im sure there is some truth to that. Usage causes wear. Just how much wear I have no idea. Im sure it dont help mechanical drives...ssd's prolly dont bother them. *shrugs*
Best practice I have found is just to keep your system maintained, and clean of bloat/malware.
With todays hardware, gains im sure are marginal at best. Seriously you cant wait n extra second for that app to load?
Sent from my LG-E730 using xda app-developers app
@KCA.: In your case, I don't think you would benefit much from ReadyBoost, no. You can always add it later if you want, though. I mostly find it useful with games that have very large install footprints, as Flash memory reading is typically much faster than magnetic hard disk reading. However, reading from RAM is much faster still, and if you're only actively using up to about 2GB of your RAM, that means the other 6GB is already being used for a SuperFetch cache.
@13lack13ox: Your system, your choice of how to use it... but unless you're already seriously stressing out the capabilities of you hardware, caching (which is all that SuperFetch and ReadyBoost are) can significantly improve performance. On an old machine I had with 1280MB of RAM, loading Eve Online (which at the time had about a 2GB install footprint) took almost twenty seconds on Windows XP and only about six seconds on Vista (with a 2GB SD card being used for ReadyBoost) even though the system was massively above the XP minimum specifications and only slightly above the Vista ones. It's a much bigger difference than a mere extra second.
As for wear, it's true that RB will shorten the life of Flash storage. NAND Flash memory (the type used in all flashdrives, SD cards, SSDs, and so forth) has a limited number of write operations for a given block of storage, and ReadyBoost will probably write to your SD card much more often than it would be written to if it just sat in your camera or similar. However, the write limits for modern Flash storage are typically in the tens or hundreds of thousands of times, and the storage controllers use a technique called "wear leveling" to ensure that no portion of the storage gets burned out early. The SD card will almost certainly become obsolete due to size and speed well before ReadyBoost would wear it out, so if you want to use it for that purpose, go ahead.
13lack13ox said:
Best practice I have found is just to keep your system maintained, and clean of bloat/malware.
With todays hardware, gains im sure are marginal at best. Seriously you cant wait n extra second for that app to load?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol can't argue with that.
GoodDayToDie said:
@KCA.: In your case, I don't think you would benefit much from ReadyBoost, no. You can always add it later if you want, though. I mostly find it useful with games that have very large install footprints, as Flash memory reading is typically much faster than magnetic hard disk reading. However, reading from RAM is much faster still, and if you're only actively using up to about 2GB of your RAM, that means the other 6GB is already being used for a SuperFetch cache.
As for wear, it's true that RB will shorten the life of Flash storage. NAND Flash memory (the type used in all flashdrives, SD cards, SSDs, and so forth) has a limited number of write operations for a given block of storage, and ReadyBoost will probably write to your SD card much more often than it would be written to if it just sat in your camera or similar. However, the write limits for modern Flash storage are typically in the tens or hundreds of thousands of times, and the storage controllers use a technique called "wear leveling" to ensure that no portion of the storage gets burned out early. The SD card will almost certainly become obsolete due to size and speed well before ReadyBoost would wear it out, so if you want to use it for that purpose, go ahead.
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Click to collapse
Thanks for the info. I'll just leave it. Seems like the benefits are negligible.. A waste of a port
KCA. said:
Finally decided to buy a new laptop to replace my old one. It came with Windows 8 (x64) pre-installed and 8GB DDR3 physical RAM.
My question is: Is it worth using ReadyBoost on the system?
Currently it only has a standard 5400rpm HDD, and an SSD isn't an option for the time being. I have a 16GB Class 10 UHS1 MicroSD card which I had dedicated to ReadyBoost, but after some digging, it seems like ReadyBoost is pretty much useless if the system has more than 1GB of physical RAM.
Sent from my GT-N7105
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Readyboost uses high speed USB drives to swap kernel memory. If you have an SSD, there is no point. If you are using a conventional HDD, the readyboost will improve performance (that is why they made it). I use it on all my Windows 7 machines except my ultraportable, which has an SSD. With USB drives so cheap, why not? Of course, you need to make sure the USB drive supports ReadyBoost; not all of them have good enough performance.
Unless MS changed this since Vista, ReadyBoost does *NOT* swap kernel memory. ReadyBoost had a specific requirement that removing the device while it was in use shouldn't disrupt the system (even so far as crashing a program). Removing paged-out kernel memory would very quickly cause a BSOD. If you have any additional info, please do share it; I'm curious.
Now, it's possible that RB will act as a read cache (not a write cache, because any changes must be written down to disk) for the pagefile. In that case, it may still improve performance. However, what I read about it initially said it was simply additional SuperFetch cache (SF typically uses unallocated RAM to pre-load files that it expects you to need soon, based on past usage patterns, so that they are available instantly without waiting on disk access). For machine with limited RAM (or which load very large programs or files), SF can dramatically improve load times. RB storage, while not as fast as RAM, is still faster than disk access.
In any case, if you have gobs of RAM, ReadyBoost doesn't matter. The kernel won't be paging stuff out, so no need for a kernel swap cache. The pagefile won't be getting much use at all, in fact (some writes to "clean" changes in memory so it can be swapped out fast, but very few reads). Unless the files you access are large than your free RAM, they shouldn't slow anything down either.
GoodDayToDie said:
Unless MS changed this since Vista, ReadyBoost does *NOT* swap kernel memory. ReadyBoost had a specific requirement that removing the device while it was in use shouldn't disrupt the system (even so far as crashing a program). Removing paged-out kernel memory would very quickly cause a BSOD. If you have any additional info, please do share it; I'm curious.
Now, it's possible that RB will act as a read cache (not a write cache, because any changes must be written down to disk) for the pagefile. In that case, it may still improve performance. However, what I read about it initially said it was simply additional SuperFetch cache (SF typically uses unallocated RAM to pre-load files that it expects you to need soon, based on past usage patterns, so that they are available instantly without waiting on disk access). For machine with limited RAM (or which load very large programs or files), SF can dramatically improve load times. RB storage, while not as fast as RAM, is still faster than disk access.
In any case, if you have gobs of RAM, ReadyBoost doesn't matter. The kernel won't be paging stuff out, so no need for a kernel swap cache. The pagefile won't be getting much use at all, in fact (some writes to "clean" changes in memory so it can be swapped out fast, but very few reads). Unless the files you access are large than your free RAM, they shouldn't slow anything down either.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, I should not have mentioned kernel. I found a short article that indicates it swaps out pieces of the software that would otherwise be swapped to the slower HDD. It will not crash because when it writes to the readyboost, it also writes to HDD - but it can read the readboost much faster than the HDD, so it increases performance when it has to pick up that data again. And the article mentions that more memory is better than readyboost (but I still use it on my Windows 7 machine with lots of memory).
Earlier explanations did not mention the pagefile, although that seems to be to be the better name for what is swapped. But I'm not sure about that. The early web postings indicated that it wrote parts of the Windows system that were frequently accessed.
http://blogs.msdn.com/b/tomarcher/archive/2006/06/02/615199.aspx?Redirected=true
EDIT: From the Q&A it sounds like it is indeed the pagefile.
Cool, thanks for the link! Sounds like it does indeed act as a read cache. Very cool.
Still probably not a *big* boost on a machine with lots of RAM, but I expect it'll help anyhow.
Hi,
I haven't been in here a while. Mostly because I rarely use my 32Gb (2012) N7 anymore; it is simply too painful of an experience. Typically I will pick it up for web browsing, but after the browser or keyboard hangs for tens of seconds for the fifth time in ten minutes, I feel like chucking it against a wall.
Don't tell me I need to free up some space; it has 25 GB of free space in /data
Don't tell me I need f2fs; I'm running CM 12.1 (20151117) / 5.5.1 with /data and /cache formatted as f2fs
Code:
[email protected]:/ $ mount | grep f2
/dev/block/platform/sdhci-tegra.3/by-name/CAC /cache f2fs rw,seclabel,nosuid,nodev,noatime,nodiratime,background_gc=on,discard,user_xattr,inline_xattr,acl,inline_data,inline_dentry,active_logs=6 0 0
/dev/block/platform/sdhci-tegra.3/by-name/UDA /data f2fs rw,seclabel,nosuid,nodev,noatime,nodiratime,background_gc=on,discard,user_xattr,inline_xattr,acl,inline_data,inline_dentry,active_logs=6 0 0
I've filled (to within a few 100 MB) the device and deleted all those files; no real improvement.
So anyway - since I haven't been keeping up, I'm wondering if anyone had been able to shine some more light on what seems to be progressive degradation of eMMC write performance with use (independent of choice of OS, kernel, fs types etc). I suppose this is some sort of wear-leveling/write amplification thing but I can't say for sure.
I really liked this tablet for the first 18 months I owned it; I'm not trolling anyone here. Note that I don't believe this is a situation with faulty hardware (it never crashes or spontaneously reboots - eventually it always comes out of it's hangs (but maybe not for 30-40 seconds). My device has just gotten progressively worse with time, to the point of unbearability.
Have there been any new developments or findings in the last several months?
I use Parrot Mod with Stock 5.1.1 on my N7 3G and I have acceptable performance on it. Ok, Chrome is not the fastest but much faster than before applying the Mod.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=3300416
bftb0 said:
Hi,
I haven't been in here a while. Mostly because I rarely use my 32Gb (2012) N7 anymore; it is simply too painful of an experience. Typically I will pick it up for web browsing, but after the browser or keyboard hangs for tens of seconds for the fifth time in ten minutes, I feel like chucking it against a wall.
Don't tell me I need to free up some space; it has 25 GB of free space in /data
Don't tell me I need f2fs; I'm running CM 12.1 (20151117) / 5.5.1 with /data and /cache formatted as f2fs
Code:
[email protected]:/ $ mount | grep f2
/dev/block/platform/sdhci-tegra.3/by-name/CAC /cache f2fs rw,seclabel,nosuid,nodev,noatime,nodiratime,background_gc=on,discard,user_xattr,inline_xattr,acl,inline_data,inline_dentry,active_logs=6 0 0
/dev/block/platform/sdhci-tegra.3/by-name/UDA /data f2fs rw,seclabel,nosuid,nodev,noatime,nodiratime,background_gc=on,discard,user_xattr,inline_xattr,acl,inline_data,inline_dentry,active_logs=6 0 0
I've filled (to within a few 100 MB) the device and deleted all those files; no real improvement.
So anyway - since I haven't been keeping up, I'm wondering if anyone had been able to shine some more light on what seems to be progressive degradation of eMMC write performance with use (independent of choice of OS, kernel, fs types etc). I suppose this is some sort of wear-leveling/write amplification thing but I can't say for sure.
I really liked this tablet for the first 18 months I owned it; I'm not trolling anyone here. Note that I don't believe this is a situation with faulty hardware (it never crashes or spontaneously reboots - eventually it always comes out of it's hangs (but maybe not for 30-40 seconds). My device has just gotten progressively worse with time, to the point of unbearability.
Have there been any new developments or findings in the last several months?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just install parrotmod and you'll notice the difference
I'm using N7 as a main device with Pure Nexus ROM + parrotmod and installed Facebook, messenger, facebook groups, asphalt 8 and about 60 other apps still works fine without lag!
Thanks for the quick feedback everyone.
I'll read through that entire thread and look at the github too.
Already I see I've got Kingston eMMC (manfid 0x000070) , ugh.
Does Trimmer accomplish the same thing as trim on boot, or is it possible to re-enable trim-on-boot on a Kingston device if not? (I just leave the tablet on, so boot time isn't a huge deal to me.)
PS for anyone interested I stumbled across an older version of JESD84 (.pdf)
Please, don't think too much about chips, trimming, file systems etc. Simply apply the Mod and be happy.
Your N7 then will be faster than before.
mausbock said:
Please, don't think too much about chips, trimming, file systems etc. Simply apply the Mod and be happy.
Your N7 then will be faster than before.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Performance optimization is always, always about details. In particular, tuning that benefits one type of workload usually makes another one worse.
If I'm sitting behind a full queue of I/O and the CPU is idling at 8% usage, tweaking the GPU or adding BT functionality isn't going to do me a whit of good.
But I'll give lines 58-74 of 01ParrotMod.sh a roll and see how it goes.
PS for anyone else reading this thread: the Trimmer app doesn't do anything on f2fs. (That app is basically a wrapper around a BusyBox version of fstrim; it dies without doing anything but the app doesn't record that in it's log.)
It's Your life. You can spend Your whole time in analyzing this old tablet and its firmware. You can also try dozens of custom roms or custom kernels, format partitions with f2fs etc. Mostly You will still have a laggy N7.
In past I also tried many things like wiping cache, limiting background processes and other tweaks in developer options.
Parrotgeek did a lot of research and many people like are happy with the result.
By the way, f2fs is auto trimming. There is no need to call fstrim manually or by script.
mausbock said:
It's Your life. You can spend Your whole time in analyzing this old tablet and its firmware.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are probably right I suppose. I guess the downside of buying inexpensive commodity hardware is that it is designed for a 2-3 year life cycle, maybe less.
Makes me wonder how much usable life span I gave up by letting the tablet sit at idle condition instead of turning it off - all those slow but non-zero write cycles inexorably chewing away at MLC/TLC write endurance lifetime, and that in turn causing progressively higher write amplification & lower usability/performance.
I can understand that - compared to other types of appliances / equipment that people buy - that expectations of usable lifetime for computers has always been rather short. Mostly because a replacement would be dramatically better/faster/more capable than the older gear. (In contrast, nobody expects to replace their toaster oven every two years - they won't be getting dramatically better toast every few years)
On the other hand, this is a subtly worse situation: not only are the replacement products better, but the older product is actually getting worse with time. Imagine buying a car model with a top speed of 100 mph; but during each year of ownership it's top speed drops by 20mph. It is impossible to remain satisfied even at a fixed level of performance if that functionality is continuously eroding.
Kind of a new-age planned obsolescence I guess. Just keep buying!
@bftb0 I am still using the N7 as my daily driver. I am running trim every two days (it helps especially when there is a lot of write access on your tablet, e.g. installing new apps, etc.) and I have set the background task limit to 4. With these settings on MM I can live quite well. Even if there are from time to time some lags, but most of the time I do not even notice them ...
AndDiSa said:
@bftb0 I am still using the N7 as my daily driver. I am running trim every two days (it helps especially when there is a lot of write access on your tablet, e.g. installing new apps, etc.) and I have set the background task limit to 4. With these settings on MM I can live quite well. Even if there are from time to time some lags, but most of the time I do not even notice them ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm using f2fs for /data and /cache, so explicit "fstrim" is not needed. Which flash memory chip do you have? I think that probably accounts for some of the differences in reports. (The "eMMC" flash memory usage model hides some details of wear leveling and even the basic memory cell type and ECC design within the chip itself - so chips from two vendors can perform similarly at the beginning of their lifespan, but quite differently towards the end as they start to engage in more page replacement activity - the methods they use to implement wear leveling are not mandated to be identical by the eMMC specification)
I have the 32 Gb model with the eMMC flash memory chip apparently mfg'ed by Kingston. (manfid 0x70)
I do have a 16GB version with MAG2GA (Samsung), rev. 0x05 (which should have even the TRIM bug ... 8-0)
Hello guys,
i created this first thread on this forum because my Moto G4 Plus doesn't work like it should.
I have display burnings (and i think it's getting worse).
I don't have a rooted device and i can't use a trick which requires root because i've banking apps which requires an unrooted phone.
Additionally the phone is getting slower and slower. When i click something sometimes i have to wait 2-3 seconds until it shows the expected result.
Chrome is slow. Google photos is slow. I think every app is slow except of one or two.
I can't remember that it was like this at the beginning.
Does anyone can help me?
Thanks,
Daniel
If you're getting display burn in, you could try the S-filter app as mentioned in this thread: https://forum.xda-developers.com/moto-g6/how-to/guide-how-to-fix-screen-burn-image-t3820594 credit to the MotoG sub Reddit page https://www.reddit.com/r/MotoG/comments/91hjne/how_to_fix_image_persistence_on_all_motorola/
I'm currently testing out a similar app - iBlue from the Play Store and it seems to be limiting the display burn in (I have a LG LCD panel on my G4 Plus). I'm not rooted (and in fact have re-locked my device's bootloader).
As for the slowdowns, is this persisting across networks (i.e. do you see the same behaviour on Wi-Fi and on 3G/4G LTE)? Have you tried to wipe cache or consider wiping data and starting over with a clean device? How much free space is left on your device's internal storage?
I'm using Twilight at the evening for a blue filter. Is it a similar app and should i only use one app?
My free space is low. I think the smartphone is slower if the battery is empty. I didn't recognize any difference between wifi and 4g/3g.
I will try a cache clear.
danieldaeschle said:
I'm using Twilight at the evening for a blue filter. Is it a similar app and should i only use one app?
My free space is low. I think the smartphone is slower if the battery is empty. I didn't recognize any difference between wifi and 4g/3g.
I will try a cache clear.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If Twilight works for you, you may as well stay with it. I did notice slight lag when the filter was on, though the trade-off is worth it for less burn-in and easier on the eyes.
Hmm, you may wish to clear some space on your internal storage - if I recall, my device slowed down when I had less than 1-2 GB of free space internally. Also, if your battery is nearly empty, your device will slow down because of Battery Saver (if you have it on), since battery saving clocks down your CPU/disables the high powered cores so you've only got 4 low powered cores until you charge. It may also be that a low battery can't provide enough power to your CPU for full operation.
Ok, a cache clear helped a little bit. I will try to reset my phone and test it if it helps.
I also noticed the slowness when the battery is low... then it is very slow...
Something on this device wrong... Motorola misconfigured anything. This shouldn't happen.
Your device should slow down when your battery is low as I wrote above, especially if you have Battery Saver active on your device. Does your navigation bar turn orange at below 15 % battery?
Only at 5%
danieldaeschle said:
Only at 5%
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thus, at 5% your device CPU clocks down and shuts off the 1.5 GHz cores, leaving you on the 4 low power 1.2 GHz cores at a reduced clock speed. Under those conditions, your device will slow down until you plug your device in https://www.howtogeek.com/242472/how-to-use-and-configure-androids-battery-saver-mode/
Instead of doing a factory reset, I'd uninstall some unnecessary apps if possible, see if you can free up some more space - it doesn't have to be a full wipe (which will erase all your data).
I always uninstall apps which i don't use and i clean all cache data and junk data with the Android Go Files app.
Maybe i have to remove old pictures from my phone...
I cleared my storage now by deleting apps. I have 3gb free space now.
I'm testing SD card speeds/rates on Note 10+ (512GB, Exynos) with Androbench. The same way as I did for my Note 9. The results go into the same google sheet as the old ones. As of this moment, it is mostly Work in Progress... and it should get some LG results, too, some day Soon(tm). I'll hopefully get most of the Note 10+ stuff done tomorrow.
Sheet here: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1rs8S2yreJYYms6ik8NgoGagZ_6OKrU5bu1FotHJVz6g/edit?usp=sharing
Preliminary results with only 3 cards tested: seems my Note 10+ is getting even slightly slower results than Note 9.
Lucky me, it seems I won't be using an SD card on this phone; I got the 512GB model so there is plenty of internal storage, and I might end up using the slot for second SIM. (And the Note 9 will remain in use for video recording, due to needing 3.5mm mic input, which seems to be a no-go with the Note 10+ for the time being... So I won't be even needing much of that big internal space on the N10+ anyway.)
Feel free to add your own results in this thread, like done in the old thread for Note 9, I'll copy them to the sheet. Please remember to specify the particular Note 10+ model (i.e. which SoC), its state (which firmware and version, rooting/scheduler tweaks/etc.) and which card (preferably with specific product code / SKU, as namings are often ambiguous (due to manufacturers reusing the same name for different card tech/generation/whatnot, see how I record them on the 'extras' sheet).
Here is the Note 9 thread for reference: https://forum.xda-developers.com/galaxy-note-9/help/note-9-sd-card-slot-speed-rating-t3833981
EDIT: All the significant tests are done (need to clean up the sheet, still). Most cards behave relatively the same way as on Note 9, i.e. slower card is still lower, with roughly the same proportions. But there are couple notable differences. Especially Lexar 633x 128GB managed to squeeze a higher random write rate (yet is otherwise slower just like other cards). The UHS-II 3 card is still utter crap (with decent sequentials, which are comparable to good UHS-I cards) - i.e. even this flagship phone still doesn't work with that better interface, but only with UHS-I.
And indeed almost all results are slightly down compared to Note 9 results. Since there was a random good peak sequential result among everything, it makes me think the system could do better, if the firmware was working better for this use case. Perhaps, e.g., the scheduler/CPU state management and Androbench combination somehow has timings which end up mostly keeping the work on a slower core and/or in a slower state, and the result is unnecessary delays or such. And the random high score could be explained then by a random higher-demand process keeping the CPU at better state for a moment, Androbench benefiting from it as a side-effect. All that is just speculation, of course. And it does not affect the end result: most users may see less than flagship level card performance.
This is mine also using a samsung 64gb orange and white 512gb note 10+ 5g xenos version
liggerz87 said:
This is mine also using a samsung 64gb orange and white 512gb note 10+ 5g xenos version
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Judging from those numbers, I think you forgot to switch the test target to the card in the settings; it measured the speed of the internal storage, which is indeed reeeaally fast.
Oops feel a tit now haha just added it again
Here is mine. Samsung 512GB EVO Select (U3) 100MB/s
Galaxy Note 10 Plus 5G Verizon
My Note 4 pretty much gives the same results. 82MB/s seq R, 54 MB/s seq W, 9.9 MB/s random R, 2.8 MB/s random W.
This is with SanDisk extreme UHS-I A2 256GB. I wish they made the card interface faster as everything else gets faster!!!
Hi guys, just found this topic and tested my card in Note 10+
It's weird, I have high read speeds but very slow write speed. Have Samsung EVO Plus 128GB.
OP, I think you may be missing the whole point of using a data drive, its primary purpose is to retain critical data. It read speed is somewhat critical in that you need to be able to play music and vids from it with no glitches. The 10+ with a V30 rated card is well capable of that.
Data drives should never used for running apks.
Internal memory should never be used for critical data storage; only the OS, loaded apks, temporary folders and the DCIM folder (for temporary holding until transferred to data drive).
Temporary folders/vetting data before it goes onto the data drive is important, use the download folder for this. Open any downloaded images in the download folder before transferring to the data drive. A malware jpeg will do far less damage here than if it gets on the data drive! I've had a malware jpeg that effected the Android OS, they are real. Generally their rein of terror is confined to the folder they're in, but not always especially if you unwittingly move it!
Scan anything questionable (especially apk downloads)with online Virustotal.
Any downloads not recognized, delete without opening! Trojan preloaders will sometimes get by the browser and autodownload in spite of settings. Look at the download folder daily for crap that don't belong. This happens very rarely but it's of paramount importance you nip it in the bud.
Everything you need for a full reload including installable app copies, backup setting for all apps that support it, any passwords, all critical data that is on the phone goes on the data drive.
Back the SD card up redundantly with at least 2 hdds that are physically and electronically isolated from each other and the PC. I use more than 2 hdds including a .5tb OTG flashstick. Stagger backups when possible to help limit the possibility all will be compromised by a malware file.
Using the SD card as a data makes the phone more secure and secures your critical data better. Makes backups and reloads much easier.
Done right no PC, cloud crap or internet is needed for a full reload/restore. Plan ahead and develop a plan that protects and preserves your critical data or you will lose it eventually. Plan ahead for a factory reset so it goes fast and seamlessly to a fully restored phone with little or no data loss.
Currently I'm using 68 of 512gb internal and 344 of 465gb on the SD card. Will be upgrading to a 1tb card soon.
blackhawk said:
OP, I think you may be missing the whole point of using a data drive, its primary purpose is to retain critical data. It read speed is somewhat critical in that you need to be able to play music and vids from it with no glitches. The 10+ with a V30 rated card is well capable of that.
Data drives should never used for running apks.
Internal memory should never be used for critical data storage; only the OS, loaded apks, temporary folders and the DCIM folder (for temporary holding until transferred to data drive).
Temporary folders/vetting data before it goes onto the data drive is important, use the download folder for this. Open any downloaded images in the download folder before transferring to the data drive. A malware jpeg will do far less damage here than if it gets on the data drive! I've had a malware jpeg that effected the Android OS, they are real. Generally their rein of terror is confined to the folder they're in, but not always especially if you unwittingly move it!
Scan anything questionable (especially apk downloads)with online Virustotal.
Any downloads not recognized, delete without opening! Trojan preloaders will sometimes get by the browser and autodownload in spite of settings. Look at the download folder daily for crap that don't belong. This happens very rarely but it's of paramount importance you nip it in the bud.
Everything you need for a full reload including installable app copies, backup setting for all apps that support it, any passwords, all critical data that is on the phone goes on the data drive.
Back the SD card up redundantly with at least 2 hdds that are physically and electronically isolated from each other and the PC. I use more than 2 hdds including a .5tb OTG flashstick. Stagger backups when possible to help limit the possibility all will be compromised by a malware file.
Using the SD card as a data makes the phone more secure and secures your critical data better. Makes backups and reloads much easier.
Done right no PC, cloud crap or internet is needed for a full reload/restore. Plan ahead and develop a plan that protects and preserves your critical data or you will lose it eventually. Plan ahead for a factory reset so it goes fast and seamlessly to a fully restored phone with little or no data loss.
Currently I'm using 68 of 512gb internal and 344 of 465gb on the SD card. Will be upgrading to a 1tb card soon.
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Click to collapse
I agree with blackhawk. I have owned Samsung Galaxy devices, including SM-N975F 256GB/256GB since S6.
I store my CD audio on the SD, and I also store my backups of my phone there.
If you end up somehow clobbering your OS and need to restore there is no better way than having a backup that is easily available!
thevmax said:
I agree with blackhawk. I have owned Samsung Galaxy devices, including SM-N975F 256GB/256GB since S6.
I store my CD audio on the SD, and I also store my backups of my phone there.
If you end up somehow clobbering your OS and need to restore there is no better way than having a backup that is easily available!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exactly. I just upgraded from a .5tb to a 1tb V30 SD card on my N10+.
These speeds are real usage and more then fast enough to use as a data drive for streaming vids, whatever.
Internal copy times:
Old .5tb card (read speed)
SD card > internal memory [email protected]
New 1tb card (write speed)
Internal memory>SD card [email protected]
Both cards are V30 Sandisk Extremes.
N975U running on Pie.
The N10+ is a snappy fast device with exceptional capabilities if used correctly.
By comparison the new Samsung flagships suck.
My other N10+ N975U1 it came factory loaded with Android 10, neither one will be upgraded.
Sandisk Extreme V30 rated, 1tb: