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[Hack] HTC charger AC charging

DISCLAIMER​What follows is a modification I did on a non genuine (apparently) HTC AC charger with the european plug, bought from ebay. It includes desoldering and soldering so some experience is needed. For whatever reason, XDA forum and I, cannot be held responsibles for any kind of damage done to your mobile phone or charging equipment. Proceed at your own risk.
So that's the deal, I bought a DHD last month but it came with a UK charger. Using an adaptor made the whole thing really huge and flimsy, so I ordered a european charger from ebay. The thing is that when Im using the UK, Battery Widget Pro reports "AC charging" (800mA max) but on the ebay one it reports "USB charging" (380mA max).
I read this thread the other day and I thought why not give it a shot on this charger. After all, its cheap and I wont have to mess up with wires and USB extensions. Apparently, you have to short the Data wires together and leave them floating.
Step 1) Open the case
This is somewhat difficult. The case does not have any kind of screw so its glued down. In order to open the case without "severe" (cosmetic) damage I used a small vice. Just squeeze gently the upper part of the charger on both sides and you should hear a *clac*. After that using a bit of force and a flat screwdriver, you can open it.
Step 2) Remove the resistors on the Data+ contact
In order to create a dummy USB connection, Data contacts had to be adjusted according to USB specifications. So Data- was grounded and Data+ had a voltage of around 2.1V. Firstly, remove the resistors. Use a desoldering tool, a pump, a pair of pliers, whatever.
Step 3) Remove the PCB trace connecting Data- to ground
This is a bit tricky. As I mentioned before, the Data- is grounded. You must remove the pcb trace. I used a small flat screwdriver used on clockwork repairs to scratch the trace. You have to be patient and careful but it does the trick.
Step 4) Short the Data contacts and close the casing
Thats easy. Just a bit of solder between the middle USB pins (on the pcb side of course). After that close the casing, applying a bit of super glue on the rim. (sorry I didnt take a picture of this )
Thats it! You're done. What we've accomplished you say? Well, on USB charging my phone reported max 380mA. With this mod, it can reach 540mA! Its still not 800mA but its a gain nontheless. The charger is just warm. If it gets burned, I wont care much. As I said, its cheap.
(this is a report of 445mA, I will change it with a better one as soon as I have my phones battery lower )

Mag charger

I have a Mag charger dongle for my Z3 C , as I have millions of USB cables.
I was just at my desk in work , when I saw some thin black smoke .. I looked down and saw the smoke was coming from the dongle .
The magnet had connected to some metal on the desk and was trying to charge it !!
The dongle was very hot , the USB cable was very hot and so was the USB hub!!
Now looking at the dongle , its melted the ends , so wont attach onto my phone . I did not think that would happen , as I assumed you would need a electrical signal or something to start the process off .
Need to buy a new dongle now )

dgattenb said:
I have a Mag charger dongle for my Z3 C , as I have millions of USB cables.
I was just at my desk in work , when I saw some thin black smoke .. I looked down and saw the smoke was coming from the dongle .
The magnet had connected to some metal on the desk and was trying to charge it !!
The dongle was very hot , the USB cable was very hot and so was the USB hub!!
Now looking at the dongle , its melted the ends , so wont attach onto my phone . I did not think that would happen , as I assumed you would need a electrical signal or something to start the process off .
Need to buy a new dongle now )
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That sucks! I leave my magnector charger attached to my metal lamp and never had problems.

The official mag charger has its contact pins recessed inside small cylindrical plastic housing which prevents this unintended contact.
Was the dongle perhaps more exposed that enabled it to short?
Maybe something to look for in your next purchase.

I use this.
http://www.amazon.com/Original-Pack...rds=deff&pebp=1421989471483&peasin=B00KNLFS9E
The charging pins are recessed as well.

I have now brought this http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00RYB4OKA/ref=pe_385721_37038051_TE_3p_dp_1 NoveltyThunder® - Charging Adapter for Micro USB Cable
Looking at the pins of my old one ( one has fallen off , as has the female usb converter at the bottom ) the pin was raised above the plastic mould , the new one has its pins recessed and it is a much stronger connection.

MicroUsb socket broken a direct wiring fix working for old phones.

Attention do this at our own risk as it may damage our phone.
My used samsung galaxy pocket-neo was becoming impossible to charge causing me to break the adapter cables with constant wiggling and balancing acts to get it to work. I took it apart and the micro usb socket looked like an extremely difficult soldering job to replace.
The solution I am using for more than a month with no adverse effects is to cut the plug off and strip the 2 power wires at one end of an old usb cable. There are 4 different coloured wires, red, black, green and white. The green and white wires transmit data, whilst the red and black are the power lines. Red is positive, Black is negative. The sleeve of the cable has a metal mesh which is not necessary for my purposes so I electrical taped it back onto the cable.
The next step is to remove the battery of the phone: I have only done this on phones with removeable batteries. The ones I have used have three terminals; one is plus and one minus, the middle one is for a thermistor in the internal of the battery so that it doesn't overheat. Check the plus and minus with a tester to be sure and look at the way it mounts into the phone. The corresponding terminals in the phone are where I connect the wires.
Now here is the complicated part, - or negative(black) goes to the one negative copper pin in the back of the phone. The positive +(red) wire however needs to bridge the other two pins for reasons that I would like to find out. The white and green wire got taped up seperately to avoid short circuits and I replaced the battery to hold the wires firmly in place and closed the back of the phone. Plug the phone into a charger or external power pack (DC 5v) and it will work fine with no overheating, I suggest this be monitored for a while as it may vary with other hardware.
There may be better ways to do this, as far as I can tell in my case I am not actually charging the battery, instead the phone is running directly from the external power source. The strange thing is that the software(CM11) battery icon slowly discharges and after about 10 hours tells me I need to charge the battery but never turns off and when I restart it is immediately back up to full.
I have tested with a normal cable and the micro usb is still working even though it is still only working when I constantly wiggle the cable, I have cleaned it and as far as I can see its not going to ever work properly.
It would be good to know why the battery does not chargewhen using this method. I imagine it has to do with the internal workings of the phone that control the charging, discharging and battery temperature.
Making the old hardware live longer.

Replacing the micro usb is doable with a hot air gun a pair of tweezers, a clunky spring loaded solder sucker, a flux pen and two pairs of 3.5 x magnification reading glasses. You dont need any fancy rework station or microscope, assuming you have steady hands, reasonably good eyesight, and some soldering experience. I just tried this myself yesterday and fixed and Ace 3 and two S3 mini boards from my junk pile, and while it was a little tricky, it didn't require any brain surgery skills, just care, patience and some previous smd soldering experience.
Proceed as follows, mask off all of the surrounding components with kapton tape, apply lots of flux from your flux pen, then heat the plug carefully, pointing the hot air across the plug and away from the rest of the board. Grab the (hot) metal can of the USB plug with the tweezers, and gently lift it. Only remove the plug when all the solder is melted, and it feels loose, to avoid pulling off any tracks. Remove those tracks, and the phone is for the bin. Next, clear any holes that are required to mount the new plug, take care at this stage, as it is imperative that the replacement plug sits flush on the board otherwise the pins on the plug, wont touch the pads on the board, and worse still, you wont get the case back on at the end of the process.
To fit the new socket, clean the pads... no really clean them.... now make sure they are clean, and then flux them and tin them. Fit the new plug, and check that it sits flush to the board. Tack down one metal lug only on the can of the new plug. Check again that the pins are lined up, and carefully drag solder them. Check for shorts. Check again... clean the pads and check again. If you are happy, tack down the remaining three lugs, make sure they are flush and that there are no blobs of solder on the tops of them. Clean the board again. Test... Profit
Total time including additional swearing, re-cleaning... re-re-cleaning and re-fitting.. about 30 minutes and two strong coffees.
The replacement USB plugs are readily available on ebay typically around the £2 ($3) mark, but there are several different styles, and they are different, so make sure you use the correct one for your board.
Now back to your question... why does your battery not charge when you tack the wires to it... simple... it is trying its best not to explode. The USB port provides 5V, but the battery needs between 2.8 and 4.2 vots.. depending on its current state of charge, and this is what the charge controller chip within the phone provides. Anything else and the protection circuit kicks in.
I suggest if you don't fancy repairing the USB plug yourself, you get one of those cheap "universal" usb phone chargers from China, they cost about the same as the replacement USB plug, but are (marginally) less likely to blow up your battery.

itsthatidiotagain said:
Now back to your question... why does your battery not charge when you tack the wires to it... simple... it is trying its best not to explode. The USB port provides 5V, but the battery needs between 2.8 and 4.2 vots.. depending on its current state of charge, and this is what the charge controller chip within the phone provides. Anything else and the protection circuit kicks in.
I suggest if you don't fancy repairing the USB plug yourself, you get one of those cheap "universal" usb phone chargers from China, they cost about the same as the replacement USB plug, but are (marginally) less likely to blow up your battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good description of the soldering job, the samsung pocket neo is very small but I look forward to having a go at fixing it properly one day, I dont yet have a magnifying glass or solder sucker, but I want to get them. Without these tools the job would be near impossible.
Little update: the phone is charging, I have disconected it and it holds its charge nicely, the internal software just doesn't register the trickle charge it is recieving, I have loads of old chargers and new usb cables and my old second hand phones micro usb port is way too damaged to work anymore with any charger. I use it as a modem principally, so it is connected every day and providing wifi to multiple devices and has no problems with over heating. Now nearly two months have passed and it works fine. Using this method it is possible to completely remove the battery as well. The phone is running directly off the 5 volt power with no ill effects.
It would be convienient to connect it directly to a pc in usb debug mode occasionally, and this is a very good reason for eventually fixing the usb plug.:good:

Help OnePlus 5 doesn't read usb-otg and pc doesn't recognize it

hey.
i have oneplus 5 its rooted and twrp installed
i erased syetem
now i can't install any system
my pc doesn't recognize it
i enterd Qualcomm mod but it doesnt recognize it
i tried to plug a usb drive it doesnt read it
i replaced the connector and usb flex it still doesn't read it
please help me
Is there any way to copy system to twrp without usb ???
thank you

hamzah93 said:
hey.
i have oneplus 5 its rooted and twrp installed
i erased syetem
now i can't install any system
my pc doesn't recognize it
i enterd Qualcomm mod but it doesnt recognize it
i tried to plug a usb drive it doesnt read it
i replaced the connector and usb flex it still doesn't read it
please help me
thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
try with both side (turn cabel)
try to oush it in hard know it sounds stupid
i know it sounds stupid but i have 1 o+5 and i changed also everything allready and tryd bunch of cabels/chargers (all oem) and same **** , charge works only in 1 position too, dashcharge is just luck sometimes works sometimes not
something dies on the mainboard on that circuit
after flexchange now contactfail but still only 1 side active even that the phone recognize connection

I changed the usb flex and connector on mainboard
It charge but no data transfer

help

Help

Help

Might be hardware. The USB board is not soldered but connected to the manboard. Open the case and fixate. HTH

Help

does the dashcharge take some wiggling to activate? @hamzah93 @KaszasM it basically means there is lots of lint in the USB-C port. USB C is known for that. Use toothpick with the sharp edge to rub inside the USB-C port to remove the lint. keep going at it for sometime as the lint is really stubborn. i had to use a safety pin and rub constantly for 2-3 minutes to get the lint out. however using metal is not suggested until you know what you're doing.
Cheers

nikk95 said:
does the dashcharge take some wiggling to activate? @[email protected] it basically means there is lots of lint in the USB-C port. USB C is known for that. Use toothpick with the sharp edge to rub inside the USB-C port to remove the lint. keep going at it for sometime as the lint is really stubborn. i had to use a safety pin and rub constantly for 2-3 minutes to get the lint out. however using metal is not suggested until you know what you're doing.
Cheers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
most of the times its just the connector , i changed a few already ,
maybe he didn't placed well by the change or it's already **** product.
you must push all the way down once i even needed to polish the edge of the usb too, that it matches into the backcover.
in my case as i made from my phone in a hot moment a 1 + "fold" a needed to change beside the battery display backcover, even the smd connector on the board .
but all if them is still fine even the last wich i mentioned in the first post above , now with the new smd ?
take your phone to pieces and free the usb port and try your charger / even better any usb otg.
if it works the trouble is 100% that u must push "down" in the backcover let the red isolation ring dissaper in the cover , if not worked with "free" usbport order 1 more

I changed the connector many times
I ordered one more flex cable and dashboard
I will chang it will replay
Thank u

i had the same issue. i just cleaned the charging port with some water ( i took the risk as it is splash proof) and a cloth and its even dash charging now. But do it at your own risk. i do this often when the problem occurs again.

How to fix absolutely dead Nexus 7 2012. Dead battery solution.

Here is a pretty much simple solutions to fix absolutely dead Nexus 7 2012 (i mean dead battery of Nexus 7)
Things you will need:
soldering iron
soldering tin
insulating tape
useless USB cable
two hands and a working brain
a bit of knowledge about electricity
multimeter to check the voltage, but it's optional.
Main problem with Nexus 7 is that the battery runs so low that it don't have enough power to stand up.
The thing that we'll do is just charge the battery straight from the wall charger, without using Nexus 7 :silly:
!!Remember that you mustn't touch red wire with the black one!!
I don't take any responsible for your lack of knowledge in electricity.
Remember not to touch the red wires with the black ones, and the black ones with the reds
1. Take off your back cover of your Device.
2. Pin out your battery pin.
3. Take out the battery (it is glued to device).
4. Cut the red and black cable somewhere in the middle.
5. Cut your redundant USB cable somewhere in the middle.
6. Peel off the insulation from both sides.
7. Insult your battery cables to your USB cable. Two red ones to one red and two black ones to one black. Don't mess it up or it will burn!
8. Plug it into the wall charger for couple of hours. (in my case it was 8 hours). Watch the temperature of your battery, because if it run too hot it can blow up, but with the voltage of wall charger it is almost impossible :silly:
10. After hours of charging, unplug the charger, unsolder the cables.
11. Solder the cables back again to the original nexus connector. You can solder all red cables together and all black wires together
it can look like this
2blackwires}-{2blackwires
2redwires}-{2redwires
i posted an image how it could look like
!!Just remember not to insult red with black!!
12. Insulate the wires with insulting tape. !!Remember the red wires can't touch to the black wires!!
12. Pin the connector to the device.
13. Start the device with the power button. And you have working Nexus 7
It worked for me, and it should work for you, but if it didn't you might do something wrong or something else broke inside your device.
You actually don't have to cut the cables if you have other possibility to put a power inside the battery. For example you can pin the needle inside of the connector and you will not have to cut, solder and tape thing