Recently I bought a VGA converter manufactured by AV TECH from Taiwan, and I think this product is quite good after using for a week. The price is cheap and lower than other VGA converters, but it's quality is much better than I expected. The image output on my LCD monitor is very sharp and clear, and the installation is very easy. No additional driver program is needed. In addition, it can also work with other image output devices, such as DVD Player, DV recorder...etc. The connection line can be extended up to 50m if needed. (I've done the testing and the image is still very clear within 40m without any distortion!)
Below is the information for this VGA converter. If you have any interests, you can take a look
http://www.avtech.com.tw/english/product_5_vga02.htm
If recording HD video on the Droid X... copying the file or transferring the file over to your computer... does that actually keep the file real HD?
I heard of a few other "HD" phones or flip-like devices that did not keep the HD when moving the files outside of the actual device.
Let me know what you all know.
(Still waiting for my Droid X to ship to me)
Yes, Export is 1280x720 wit frame rate of 23fps.
Audio is 96kbps/44hKz mono
Thank you.
You think they will allow or stereo audio with the device having 3 mics?
What about when you hook it up to a HD Tv? I was thinking about putting movies on the memory card and then watching it directly on the Tv... Will it work/look like HD?
Yup - the files are output over HDMI in 720P HD resolution. (It supports several resolutions) From what I've tried so far, you'll get the best results with MP4 videos encoded with .H264, with a resolution of 1280x720. (or close to that) I'm not sure what the bitrate is, but the files I encoded with handbrake are about 1 GB per hour of video. They look great on the phone and on widescreen TVs.
Note:
I also tried the HDMI output on a older 4:3 computer monitor over DVI (using a HDMI to DVI adapter). It does work - however, to match the video to the 4:3 aspect ratio, it lowers the resolution and puts black bars on the top and bottom. On a 16:9 TV or monitor, this does not happen.
Thank you... exactly what I wanted to know.
Unfortunately my amp (NAD C352) does not have an S/PDIF in, does anyone with a Q that is open right now tell me if they can easily extract the analog signal before it is amplified?
From the pictures I have seen, it looks like there is a ribbon cable with 5 pins that connects to the amp, which looks to include a TI chip (can anyone find the part number?). I assume that the signal is still digital in the ribbon cable and I will have to extract the signal from the PCB(Assuming that TI chip is indeed the DAC).
Edit:
Here are a few more details: wired.com/gadgetlab/2012/06/nexus-q-teardown/?pid=3468
ocran said:
Unfortunately my amp (NAD C352) does not have an S/PDIF in, does anyone with a Q that is open right now tell me if they can easily extract the analog signal before it is amplified?
From the pictures I have seen, it looks like there is a ribbon cable with 5 pins that connects to the amp, which looks to include a TI chip (can anyone find the part number?). I assume that the signal is still digital in the ribbon cable and I will have to extract the signal from the PCB(Assuming that TI chip is indeed the DAC).
Edit:
Here are a few more details: wired.com/gadgetlab/2012/06/nexus-q-teardown/?pid=3468
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You could always just use a cheap (<$20) digital to analog converter box. I haven't taken mine apart and hopefully don't find a reason I need to.
bobukcat said:
You could always just use a cheap (<$20) digital to analog converter box. I haven't taken mine apart and hopefully don't find a reason I need to.
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Yes, something like monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10423&cs_id=1042302&p_id=6884&seq=1&format=2 would of course do the job, but I imagine that the DAC in a $20 part is less than desirable. Perhaps I should invest in a preamp(or receiver) that accepts S/PDIF...
ocran said:
Yes, something like monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10423&cs_id=1042302&p_id=6884&seq=1&format=2 would of course do the job, but I imagine that the DAC in a $20 part is less than desirable. Perhaps I should invest in a preamp(or receiver) that accepts S/PDIF...
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Valid point - I have a bit of a similar predictament in that I would like to be able to send the Q music to zone two buy very few AVRs support Digital Inputs to zone 2. I wonder if the options for converting speaker level outputs to line level (mostly for adding amps to factory car audio systems) would be cleaner or not. May just spring for a new AVR too, even though the one I have is only about 5 years old.
I didn't even consider that an AVR wouldn't be able to send a digital input to zone 2(or 3). I'll have to make sure that is the case when I finally break down and pick one up.
My current setup is almost laughable, I've taken my 7.1 sound card and split it into three independent stereo cards for which I use MPD to output to three analog amps to obtain my three "zones". Consolidating to a single receiver would save a lot of space, and idle power(which is huge; the C352 pulls over an amp when not in use).
Yeah, you have to go up the line quite a bit to find an AVR that will send digital inputs to a second zone. Denon, Pioneer and Yamaha (probably others as well) all make one but the cheapest I've found (in limited searches) is about $900.
That $900 one must not have been a Denon. The AVR-2313CI ($899.99) nor can the AVR-3313CI ($1999.99) do it. The AVR-4311CI ($2099.99) can do it with the following conditions:
• When the input source to which the digital input connectors (OPTICAL/COAXIAL) are assigned is selected in ZONE2 or ZONE3, playback is only possible if the digital signal being input is in PCM (2-channel) format.
• It is not possible to play the digital audio signals input from the HDMI or DENON LINK connectors in ZONE2 and ZONE3. Use analog connections for ZONE2 or ZONE3 playback.
Which warrants the question is the Q's TOSLINK PCM when playing music?
Hi there. I have the Nvidia Shield TV Pro and have been having trouble finding the right receiver.
First I purchased a Sony STRDH550 5.2 Channel 4K AV Receiver, and found out that it cannot handle 4K upscaling (which the Nvidia Shield TV does according to Sony) Technically it worked, but what would happen is the screen goes black then will show the input on tv. Almost like someone unplugs the HDMI and then reconnects. Best way I have thought of naming this is an HDMI Blink. It happens numerous (10 to 15 times) per day. So according to Sony this receiver was only 4K passthrough capable, which actually didn't even work, I had to connect shield directly to TV and use ARC for sound.
Second, I purchased an Onkyo Thank you-NR636 7.2 Ch -- which is advertised as 4K passthrough and 4K upscale capable. I still have the HDMI blink, but now it is not as often (2-3 times) per day.
The TV I'm using is a Vizio M50-C1 and is 4K HDMI 2.0 HDCP 2.2.
It has 4 30Hz HDMI ports and 1 60Hz HDMI port.
The only way I can get ULTRA 4K to play from Netflix is to connect it to the 60Hz port.
The other 30Hz ports are labeled 4K, and when connected will play with audio/video but will not broadcast in 4K. I do not understand this, so if anyone could shed some light that would be great. (I've tried every troubleshooting step I could think of) ie. unplugging all cables and plugging them back in sequence. After connection unplugging the power on the Shield TV and re plug. (Same with receiver and TV) I've tried other sources on the receiver and tried every HDMI port/input.
So I'm thinking of returning this Onkyo Receiver and purchasing a better/more expensive one. I would appreciate anyones feedback on their experience with the Nvidia Shield TV and 4K Receiver/TV.
Has anyone been able to get full 60Hz 4K and 720/1080 Upscaling from Receiver to TV to operate without any problems?
Are there any Receivers you could recommend to me that can handle this properly? Thanks for your help.
I cant answer your question directly as I haven't used 4k receivers, but have you considered that the HDMI cable could be faulty?
Unfortunately I already replaced both the HDMI cables with brand new gold plated HDMI 2.0 4K cables.
I might be able to shed some light.
Firstly it doesn't sound like your HDMI cable. There's actually no such thing as a HDMI 2.0 cable. It's the devices that are HDMI 2.0, and will work with any high speed HDMI cable.
Always plug a 4K device into a 60hz HDMI if possible. That way if any of the apps, or even the home screen want to run at 50hz or 60hz you won't experience a problem. Obviously if it's plugged into the 30hz port, the picture will disappear when the device outputs anything above 30hz.
You don't actually want your AVR to upscale your picture. Your 4K TV will do it automatically, and TV's generally do a better job than AVR's.
As for the HDMI blink, I'm not entirely sure (I've not actually plugged my shield into my 4K TV yet) it could be when the system switches resolutions, eg 4K to 1080p. The screen needs a little time to process the new source. My TV does that when my PC is hooked up, and I switch between a 4K desktop environment and a 1080p game.
If it's any help my AVR has no problem with any 4K material I've thrown at it. I use a Pioneer VSX 930.
The Shield TV, like all modern Nvidia devices, has a built in upscaler. No need for an external one and in fact, extra processing is likely to degrade gaming experience.
Using ARC is actually a good solution although that has the disadvantage of requiring the TV to be on just to listen to music.
martyn3000 said:
I might be able to shed some light.
Firstly it doesn't sound like your HDMI cable. There's actually no such thing as a HDMI 2.0 cable. It's the devices that are HDMI 2.0, and will work with any high speed HDMI cable.
Always plug a 4K device into a 60hz HDMI if possible. That way if any of the apps, or even the home screen want to run at 50hz or 60hz you won't experience a problem. Obviously if it's plugged into the 30hz port, the picture will disappear when the device outputs anything above 30hz.
You don't actually want your AVR to upscale your picture. Your 4K TV will do it automatically, and TV's generally do a better job than AVR's.
As for the HDMI blink, I'm not entirely sure (I've not actually plugged my shield into my 4K TV yet) it could be when the system switches resolutions, eg 4K to 1080p. The screen needs a little time to process the new source. My TV does that when my PC is hooked up, and I switch between a 4K desktop environment and a 1080p game.
If it's any help my AVR has no problem with any 4K material I've thrown at it. I use a Pioneer VSX 930.
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Thank you for the information. It's actually really helpful. Those were all things I was wondering but not sure. Another question for you; I primarily use the shield remote and not the controller. If I have the shield connected to the receiver with pass through, and I try to adjust the volume with the shield remote it does not work. It says this app is set for surround sound please use the tv remote to adjust the volume. Is this normal? On my previous receiver that didn't happen. I could adjust the volume with the shield remote. Any thoughts?
NiHaoMike said:
The Shield TV, like all modern Nvidia devices, has a built in upscaler. No need for an external one and in fact, extra processing is likely to degrade gaming experience.
Using ARC is actually a good solution although that has the disadvantage of requiring the TV to be on just to listen to music.
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The arc solution does work. I get 4K video etc. but it still has the HDMI blink when playing non 4K content. The only solution so far I have found us to use the 30hz input on the TV, which eliminates the HDMI blink. Then when I way to watch 4K content, switch it back to the 60hz port.
I haven't tried changing the Nvidia HDMI settings to use the (less than 60hz) option. I think it's 27hz or something like that.
Does the TV work fine with another 4K source like a PC? You might also want to try a shorter and/or different brand of HDMI cable.
I have t tried another source. I'm not even sure my PC does 4K. Would I need a 4K graphics card? I will definitive try a different cable. I had previously used a gold plated cable that was a few years old, and that's when I noticed the HDMI blink. So I purchased two new ones from Amazon. I'm pretty sure they are the right ones, but would like to reassure if anyone knows.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NQ9OQU2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
those should work, but if you are looking for a great AV receiver to use with this, I just bought a yamaha 2050, and everything works great!
http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-A2050-9-2-Channel-MusicCast-Bluetooth/dp/B00YMN6E7O
mikie00mike said:
Thank you for the information. It's actually really helpful. Those were all things I was wondering but not sure. Another question for you; I primarily use the shield remote and not the controller. If I have the shield connected to the receiver with pass through, and I try to adjust the volume with the shield remote it does not work. It says this app is set for surround sound please use the tv remote to adjust the volume. Is this normal? On my previous receiver that didn't happen. I could adjust the volume with the shield remote. Any thoughts?
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HDMI control is a fickle beast. I find it works with some devices and not others. It could just be the combination of Shield and AVR you currently have.
I wouldn't be changing your AVR primarily on it's ability to function with your Shield though.
mikie00mike said:
I have t tried another source. I'm not even sure my PC does 4K. Would I need a 4K graphics card? I will definitive try a different cable. I had previously used a gold plated cable that was a few years old, and that's when I noticed the HDMI blink. So I purchased two new ones from Amazon. I'm pretty sure they are the right ones, but would like to reassure if anyone knows.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NQ9OQU2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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If you have a 650 or above GPU (Kepler), it supports 4K output.
I have just overcome some 4k UHD issues with my Shield TV which are similar to the ones you described.
The main problem is HDCP 2.2....
This is what I found out.
Some time last year the HDCP standards were changed to require any 4K 60hz display to only accept a 4K 60hz UHD signal if it was wrapped in HDCP 2.2. Put simply - this means if any device in the connectivity chain is not HDCP 2.2 compatable you will not get a 4K 60hz UHD picture on your display.
For me this was a problem because my HDMI 4K UHD switch was not HDCP 2.2, and my LG 55EG960v refused the non-hdcp2.2 signal, so the shield TV would auto re-connect @ 1080p beacuse the connectivity chain was incompatible....
4K UHD Netflix requires HDCP 2.2, which is why it will only connect/work on the single HDMI input on your TV rated for 4k 60hz hdcp2.2...
The only way to guarantee a working 4K 60hz UHD signal is to ensure all your equipment is HDCP2.2 certified, or do some clever duplex routing.
Unitl this year HDCP2.2 equipment at reasonable prices was very scarce, but LIGAWO is a german manufactuer who seems to have just released a whole range of HDCP2.2 routers/switches/splitters etc (at reasonable consumer level prices).... I am sure there will be many more suppliers soon.
The rule of thumb I would use is - Unless the specification clearly states the device/equipment is HDCP2.2 compatable - don't go near it.....
I really, really hate DRM....
PS: It sounds like may not need to replace your expensive AV reciever, and what you want to achieve could be done through duplex routing. Happy to have a PM discussion if that would help. I currently run 5 consoles, 1 STB, 1Shield TV, 1 PC, and Chromecast audio, all with a Yamaha DSP Soundbar/Reciever (which is only HDMI 1.4 compatable), into 1 TV, and still can get 4k UHD 60hz + 7.1 HD audio.... So it can be done without replacing your AV reciever.
THIS IS AWESOME!! Thanks so much for this. Would you mind if I PM you later tonight when I get home from work? So would I also need a new router? Right now I have an Asus RTAC66U dual band. I also have a WD My Cloud EX4 that I stream videos from, would that need to be replaced also? I will PM you later if ok. Thanks again.
MintyTrebor said:
I have just overcome some 4k UHD issues with my Shield TV which are similar to the ones you described.
The main problem is HDCP 2.2....
This is what I found out.
Some time last year the HDCP standards were changed to require any 4K 60hz display to only accept a 4K 60hz UHD signal if it was wrapped in HDCP 2.2. Put simply - this means if any device in the connectivity chain is not HDCP 2.2 compatable you will not get a 4K 60hz UHD picture on your display.
For me this was a problem because my HDMI 4K UHD switch was not HDCP 2.2, and my LG 55EG960v refused the non-hdcp2.2 signal, so the shield TV would auto re-connect @ 1080p beacuse the connectivity chain was incompatible....
4K UHD Netflix requires HDCP 2.2, which is why it will only connect/work on the single HDMI input on your TV rated for 4k 60hz hdcp2.2...
The only way to guarantee a working 4K 60hz UHD signal is to ensure all your equipment is HDCP2.2 certified, or do some clever duplex routing.
Unitl this year HDCP2.2 equipment at reasonable prices was very scarce, but LIGAWO is a german manufactuer who seems to have just released a whole range of HDCP2.2 routers/switches/splitters etc (at reasonable consumer level prices).... I am sure there will be many more suppliers soon.
The rule of thumb I would use is - Unless the specification clearly states the device/equipment is HDCP2.2 compatable - don't go near it.....
I really, really hate DRM....
PS: It sounds like may not need to replace your expensive AV reciever, and what you want to achieve could be done through duplex routing. Happy to have a PM discussion if that would help. I currently run 5 consoles, 1 STB, 1Shield TV, 1 PC, and Chromecast audio, all with a Yamaha DSP Soundbar/Reciever (which is only HDMI 1.4 compatable), into 1 TV, and still can get 4k UHD 60hz + 7.1 HD audio.... So it can be done without replacing your AV reciever.
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So does this mean 650 or above GPU is for the receiver or media player? When you say 650 does that handle 4K passthrough, as well as full 4K upscaling from 480/720/1080p content?
NiHaoMike said:
If you have a 650 or above GPU (Kepler), it supports 4K output.
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In the PC you're using as a source, to rule out the Shield as the problem. And yes, any Kepler or newer GPU (including the one built into the Shield) will upscale all the way to 4K, although the smaller ones won't be able to handle the most advanced algorithms. But unless you're a hardcore videophile, you'll be hard pressed to tell the difference between how well a high end GPU upscales as opposed to how well a smaller GPU upscales. Not surprising given that image scaling is just one of the most fundamental parts of 3D rendering.
mikie00mike said:
THIS IS AWESOME!! Thanks so much for this. Would you mind if I PM you later tonight when I get home from work? So would I also need a new router? Right now I have an Asus RTAC66U dual band. I also have a WD My Cloud EX4 that I stream videos from, would that need to be replaced also? I will PM you later if ok. Thanks again.
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I pm'd you some stuff.
Minty or Mike may I get a copy also please?
Minty I PMd you
Thanks!
mikie00mike said:
THIS IS AWESOME!! Thanks so much for this. Would you mind if I PM you later tonight when I get home from work? So would I also need a new router? Right now I have an Asus RTAC66U dual band. I also have a WD My Cloud EX4 that I stream videos from, would that need to be replaced also? I will PM you later if ok. Thanks again.
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thruster999 said:
Minty or Mike may I get a copy also please?
Minty I PMd you
Thanks!
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I have updated my config since I sent the details last, but I still duplex (or send multiple signals of the same HDMI source) to bypass the HDCP restrictions so I can continue to use my older soundbar. Picture with notes attached. Shout if you need anything more.
Hi,
I'd like to build a prototype of a system for 3D visualization which will involve the use of two 4K display screens (one screen for each eye), and the displays must be very tightly synchronized in order to maintain the 3D effect. I have a cheap little android set-top box at home (Nexbox A95X), which plays 4K video just fine - but it would never be able to decode/process the data throughput for two 4K displays at once.
My idea is to link two such devices together (via USB or Ethernet), so that the 1st device (the 'master unit') decodes the video file (or game file) for video channel 1, and simultaneously streams the raw (non-decoded) data for video channel 2 to the 2nd device (the 'slave' unit). When the slave unit successfully processes the data for the video field, it then sends a signal to the master unit so both units can output their video field to each respective screen at the same time.
I understand such a prototype system would require custom software installed on both units - but that software would not need to be highly complex, so it could be produced without great cost.
Is this scenario possible?
I'm guessing that if this prototype scenario is possible, it would be less costly than hiring a company to produce a custom PCB with sufficient processing power for two simultaneous 4K displays.
My 2nd idea is to hire someone to modify an Odroid, adding two separate graphic processing chips to it, as well as a 2nd HDMI output (and additional software).
Any thoughts would be immensely appreciated!