Related
Hey guys,
Recently I have been seeing companies releasing devices for Android that are not phones e.g.
Android USB Sticks:
techland.time.com/2012/05/18/pc-in-your-pocket-74-android-stick-goes-on-sale/
or more recently a game console:
kickstarter.com/projects/ouya/ouya-a-new-kind-of-video-game-console
I'm in University now studying Electrical Engineering and I've had an interest in electronics since I was young, so now I thought it was possible for me to design my own device. But so far my only luck with getting anywhere was drafting designs of the device and finding development boards online. Sure i could start off with development boards to test software (which i'm planning to do) but I am quite lost as to where I should go next. For example where to I get a manufacturer to produce my device or where to purchase a processor/motherboard that is custom designed for my project.
It would be really great if someone could point me in the right direction,
Scott
that's an ambitious project, I've just finished 2 degrees in EE and in the long term i'm looking to do similiar projects, but right now it is beyond my capabilities. But what i have done is buy a very cheap dev kit from STmicroelectronics with their ARM m4 chip onboard. (STM32F4)
this chip should be powerful enough to get started on and all the pins are broken out, plus the device includes a programmer and is powered over usb.
It was less than €20 but is still sat in its box as I've a lot to learn before cracking it open.
Have you any experience with RTOS for ARM, Keil offer a free trial version of their well respected uVision MDK software, it supports the above board directly and removes the need to configure a tool chain etc. Personally i'm trying to get eclipse on ubuntu to program it bit Keil uVision will allow me to blink LED's etc so long as my program is under 4Kb.
I too am only starting down this project but i hope the little i know has been of some help.
As for custom devices, well thats a whole other ball game, you will need to make out a schematic, then a board layout, then gerber files. After that you need a small run on a pick and place / reflow line. It's very rare these work out first time round, attention has to be paid to details like noise sinking, pull up resistors, matching logic levels and optically isolating external devices etc.
It's great that you are looking beyond your course material, I've learned much more from personal geekery rather than just taking notes from a lecturer. Anything you do outside the course will benefit you in a better degree at the end.
I've never been designing device from scratch, and I'm also just first grade student. Anyway I could imagine how this might look for small company or single person:
1) Decide what do you want to build-up. Easiest todo is custom dev-board, it can be always redesigned and packed into tablet case. The hardest to-do is mobile phone, and it's nearly impossible to create such thing due to high level of embedding everything, and need to sign pretty serious agreements with RF CPU (and other things like transceivers, antennas, duplexers) supplier like Infineon or Qualcomm.
2) Think what main components you'll need, like LPDDR, SoC (CPU), PMIC (SoC manufacturer usually recommend PMICs to be used and provide reference board schemas for using both), battery fuel gauge, charging controller (both might be built into PMIC, depends on model), screen+touchscreen (there are dozens of such, one might want to decide its size already, but in case of dev-board like build it usually can be replaced by some smaller/bigger with small HW modifications or without modifications at all), sensors like gyro, compass, pressure, light, whatever.
3) Search through suppliers websites and decide what models of ICs you want to use (I'd pick only open hardware), order engineering samples and get reference schemas, rather start from SoC(OMAP4460 for eg.)+PMIC pair, then decide about the rest.
4) Don't forget about extension slots like USB ports, DC supply, serial converters, whatsoever.
5) Start designing PCB board. IMO it's impossible for begginer to project any usable PCB for embedded system, I'm begginer and I'm failing with simplest boost HF DC/DC converters (like 10-20 parts on board), while such board would have thousands of elements on it, and multi layer board to fit it everything in some rational size.
6) Find company that will make prototype for you - they should make board + solder all the components you provide them - one with no professional (and very, very expensive) soldering stations is not able to solder BGA components at home.
7) Test it out.
Relatively, assuming that main components are free engineering samples, this might be not so money-expensive way to create some useful stuff. But for sure it's very, very time expensive, and begginer alone will nearly for sure fail.
//edit:
I just re-read my post and figured it might be pretty demotivating. I'm not saying it's impossible, but I'd suggest you to start from something easier - ARM dev board is the thing you need. As Quiggers stated above.
Just noticed these - cheap and powerful dev boards:
http://wiki.xbmc.org/index.php?title=Allwinner_A10#Other
Custom design
I'm looking to do the same, has this worked for you? I'm looking to build a custom android based mobile device as the original poster. I haven't had any look finding the correct electrical or device engineer to provide me any assistance. Are you available to assist?
Quiggers said:
that's an ambitious project, I've just finished 2 degrees in EE and in the long term i'm looking to do similiar projects, but right now it is beyond my capabilities. But what i have done is buy a very cheap dev kit from STmicroelectronics with their ARM m4 chip onboard. (STM32F4)
this chip should be powerful enough to get started on and all the pins are broken out, plus the device includes a programmer and is powered over usb.
It was less than €20 but is still sat in its box as I've a lot to learn before cracking it open.
Have you any experience with RTOS for ARM, Keil offer a free trial version of their well respected uVision MDK software, it supports the above board directly and removes the need to configure a tool chain etc. Personally i'm trying to get eclipse on ubuntu to program it bit Keil uVision will allow me to blink LED's etc so long as my program is under 4Kb.
I too am only starting down this project but i hope the little i know has been of some help.
As for custom devices, well thats a whole other ball game, you will need to make out a schematic, then a board layout, then gerber files. After that you need a small run on a pick and place / reflow line. It's very rare these work out first time round, attention has to be paid to details like noise sinking, pull up resistors, matching logic levels and optically isolating external devices etc.
It's great that you are looking beyond your course material, I've learned much more from personal geekery rather than just taking notes from a lecturer. Anything you do outside the course will benefit you in a better degree at the end.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Technexion
I have used OMAP3530 CPU. The TAO3530 is a good starting point and you can get a Tsunami board.
s8500 board with tablet touchscreen
hi dudes,
i have an old wave s8500 but the screen is broken. and i have an old tablet screen 7" from herotab8/dropad8.
can i use the tablet screen with the s8500 board? is not drivers necessary for the touchscreen? and where will i get the drivers?
and do i not need the datasheets of the pins to connect?
)
What we REALLY need is for someone to make a SoC that's basically like the one in the Raspberry Pi, but substitutes a FPGA for the GPU that's big enough to re-implement GPU functionality... long after the chip has left the fab & gotten soldered onto an open-ended generic ARM stick with no specific purpose, and thus manages to officially avoid getting infected by DRM-mandated licensing terms (ie, anything *officially* licensed to support h.264 or HDMI) that keep making totally open drivers nearly impossible. After all, if the drivers were 100% open source, there's no way they can stop you from commenting out the part responsible for implementing Cinavia, or lying to endpoint devices (like your home theater amp) about HDCP compliance
To deflect infringement claims, a company that made Android boards from the FPGA-equipped SoCs could make it with a soldered-on DVI port instead of HDMI (HDMI connectors are encumbered by viral licensing, DVI isn't), and put a reference design on their website for a wacky octopus cable that used the DVI-A pins to output unbuffered 3-bit pseudo-VGA, and used the remaining pins as a high-density breakout connector for a bunch of half-duplex RS-485 ports and GPIO lines that just *happened* to use DVI/HDMI logic levels
Of course, you'd never be able to legally sell a product based upon that board to end users in the US with the taboo technologies supported "out of the box", but other companies outside the US not subject to our self-inflicted wackiness could, and hopefully WOULD, buy enough of those boards to drive the price down enough to make them cheap for American hobbyists to buy on eBay and use for our own guerrilla Android-powered hardware projects.
In theory, the Xilinx Zynq 7000 series sort of does this... but at the moment, they're so ungodly expensive, you could almost buy a half-dozen Nexus 7 tablets for the price of their Android-capable dev board.
sounds great dude
Nice
Nice post
Hardware for Android D
Its not even turning on now...guess i will have to take it to a computer shop now, are you sure it has to be major things like "dead hard drive to a burned up chip to a bad motherboard."?
I'm just looking to be pointed in the right general direction here.
How would I go about hooking up an LCD and touch panel to an Android board (Raspberry PI or something similar). This is for an embedded device.
Something like a Hannstar HSD062IDW1
sbarrow said:
I'm just looking to be pointed in the right general direction here.
How would I go about hooking up an LCD and touch panel to an Android board (Raspberry PI or something similar). This is for an embedded device.
Something like a Hannstar HSD062IDW1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, most of these ARM dev boards have raw LCD headers. If you're an electronics designer then you can go design a PCB to do things like level shift those bits and maybe convert those parallel signals to something else (LVDS or HDMI or watever). But from what I understand, you already have a video out in the form of HDMI and svideo. Some of us here at ArcDatum have done embedded systems research on a whole bunch of ARM boards (BeagleBoard, Pandaboard, the obscure ODROID-X) and almost all of them should have LCD headers. As for touch screens, that's more difficult. Chances are you'll have to use GPIOs or find a screen with HDMI input and USB output for touch sensing. Otherwise you'll have to design an touch screen input/output driver (which actually isn't that hard once you know how.....finding out how is the difficult part since so many of the chips they use have little or no documentation).
You might be in luck with iPhone screens. I personally have heard rumors of people reverse engineering the screen signals and driving them.
Edit: So i looked at your Hannstar link. Looks like you have a 10.5V LED backlight. So u'll have to drive that separately; that's easy enough. As for the actual signals. Looks like the pinouts you have all the RGB 8bit per color channels as well as your power stuff, ground stuff, and your clock inputs all of which can come from either your LCD header on ur RPi (if it has one; i know the BeagleBoard-XM has them) or an external power supply (for Vcc etc). Note you should tie all grounds together in many cases. As for the other random signals you will have to figure out if they're necessary to connect to something (Even if it's ground) or if you can leave them floating. Watch out for your voltage levels and how much current the RGB signals on the display will sink. Likely case is you have to do a level shift from something like 1.8V logic to 3.3V logic or something like that. When you're picking your IC to do that level shifting, also be very aware that the IC has to be able to change from 0 to 3.3V fast enough. You will have to verify that within one clock cycle, the slew rate of every pin (aka each bit for the RGB channels) is high enough to change from a high value to low or vice versa before the next clock edge comes along. If not you're data will be considered corrupt or just completely invalid.
Edit2: Your title states that you're trying to make this work with Android. I think in fact you are trying to drive the LCD with the System on a Chip on the RPi. Depending on the SoC and kernel, you might have to enable the LCD header pinouts in the kernel. Don't quote me on this though. I could be totally bull****ting you. My GUESS is that the same signals that go to the HDMI chip go to the header and in fact when using the header, you're just pulling the logic of those same signal lines (which also means you have to be extra careful of the current you're sourcing from those lines)
I wish to understand your motivation.
There are plenty of cheap Android tablets available with LCD touch screen. Now instead of trying to use one of these you want to get inferior "WhateverBerry" and engineer LCD interface + software stack etc spending your time and money.
Am I correct describing your intention?
Also I am not sure that Android is a good fit for embedded development which is mostly applied to some type of real-time controllers. It is not real-time OS.
If your want to build quickly an embedded controller with LCD touch you can get it done using Arduino boards. There are few LCD modules with touch capabilities available but with very poor documentation. It will require some work but it is feasible to achieve in a few days. It would cost you about $100 in components including Arduino and LCD shield and software is free.
Good luck!
sbarrow said:
I'm just looking to be pointed in the right general direction here.
How would I go about hooking up an LCD and touch panel to an Android board (Raspberry PI or something similar). This is for an embedded device.
Something like a Hannstar HSD062IDW1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Adapt0r said:
I wish to understand your motivation.
There are plenty of cheap Android tablets available with LCD touch screen. Now instead of trying to use one of these you want to get inferior "WhateverBerry" and engineer LCD interface + software stack etc spending your time and money.
Am I correct describing your intention?
Also I am not sure that Android is a good fit for embedded development which is mostly applied to some type of real-time controllers. It is not real-time OS.
If your want to build quickly an embedded controller with LCD touch you can get it done using Arduino boards. There are few LCD modules with touch capabilities available but with very poor documentation. It will require some work but it is feasible to achieve in a few days. It would cost you about $100 in components including Arduino and LCD shield and software is free.
Good luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree with this, for the most part. Although theres no reason his application wouldnt be better with Android. What if theyre making some sort of consumer friendly appliance. Android wud be a great place to start. Arduinos wud be good for tiny applications but if they want anything pretty it wont have enough horse power.
Also Im not sure how RTOS fits into this. Sure Android isnt an RTOS, but ur phone is Android and thats an embedded system too. Just because it isnt deterministic doesnt mean it isnt suited for embedded. Just go look at basically any of the Texas Instruments ARM based android/linux dev boards.
Anyway back to the topic at hand. If you want a high powered device then try a BeagleBoard with a third party LCD attachment. It wont be cheap, you would basically have an android tablet only itd be for development (and I mean product development, not just software development). But if you dont need 700+mghz of 32 bit addressing lol, then yes go with a much cheaper arduino and lcd.
Edit: Look at this, I think you'll like it (its an all in one ARM development board):
e2e.ti.com/group/universityprogram/educators/w/wiki/2252.am335x-starter-kit.aspx?sp_rid_pod4=MTk2NzAwNDYzODgS1&sp_mid_pod4=40798754
Also I should clarify Arduinos are a 'cheaper' solution, not a 'cheap' solution. Arduinos are not cheap for the amount of processing power u get and they are almost never suited for LCD applications (but there are a few).
Sent from my SGH-I747M using xda app-developers app
I am glad to have this discussion, it helps to clarify choices we make and avoid waste of time.
RTOS is needed if high rate data acquisition is the core application. If time uncertainty of Android apps execution is tolerable then it might be a good choice considering great UI and communication capabilities.
A number of projects utilize commercial Android hardware with external Bluetooth or USB accessory/ host. In this configuration external accessory acquires and stores data in a buffer, Android terminal reads this data buffer and then does data processing and visualization if necessary.
This combination looks the most efficient since it provides great flexibility with minimal resources.
Low price of Raspberry PI and good marketing attracted a lot of people but usability of this board is very limited. You get what you paid for. It is underpowered for modern Linux and Android, does not have ADC, not suitable for low power (battery) applications. Originally, its main purpose was declared to make learning of programming languages more accessible.
Cheers!
screen
hello Folks,
i even have a broken tablet, but the touchscreen is still ok.
and i still have a samsung wave s8500 with broken screen but it still running.
is there any solution how i can connect the 7 inch screen with the wave?
the 7 inch screen is a mid tablet dropad/haipad.
is there any link to hardware manuall..
and where can i get the driver of the mid?
thanks in advance
Samsung Galaxy Tab 2 7" to LCD
is ther anyone trying connect samsung galaxy tab 2 7" to LCD
or it is imposible.... (
Hey all the good people at XDA. I have an idea and the potential parts to make this work. Think of it like a Google Glass ( another glass concept ) but for the combat Infantrymen. We wear eye protection already and put some crazy stuff on our helmets. We get shot at and we shoot back.
This is where I and trying to help.
The concept:
Being able to know and many rounds you have fired.
able to tell distance, direction and elevation the shots originating from.
Able to tell what round was fired.
The hardware:
Will be tested on Oakley M frames. I am drafting up at the moment.
Small screen on either eye but supposed to be your non firing eye.
there will be small mics around the helmet. This is what will give direction.
There will be a small shock sensor and mic to give an accurate round count.
What I want to try to use:
I have an electronic viewfinder screen from an old digital camera. that's what I will look up to. I have the orignal PCB that I know has the TI DPS. I think it has whatever display chip on the board as well. Basically I tore a kodak easyshare z710. I don't know what firmware type is it. Maybe Linux but I don't know.
Can I get some help on this. Is a little near and dear lol.
Sent from my Nexus 7
I don't actually understand what kind of help you need. Do you need hardware or software help? And if you plan on an endeavor such as this how do you plan to obtain funding?
Please give a thanks if you think this post helped you!
Sent from my Nexus 4 using XDA Premium 4 Mobile App .
can you elaborate it a bit more,seriously I could not make out where you need help
I'm sorry guys, I think my sleep meds started kicking in and I just zone out.
Basically I want to make a small projector with the hardware provided to project an image onto the lens of my Oakley eye pro. The mobo in the camera has some sort of OS. I don't know what it is (I would think Unix of some sort).
There is more to it, but the hardest things is getting the projector work right and have control from a smartphone.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app
So what do you need from us? I'm confused...
Please give a thanks if you think this post helped you!
Sent from my Nexus 4 using XDA Premium 4 Mobile App .
It sounds like the basic concept is there. I'm guessing you are looking for technical help to make this a practical reality.
So far I see that you have most of the sensors planned out:
-shock sensor
-mics
And the output:
-LCD from the camera
But it seems to me you need a microcontroller somewhere in there. You could use an Atmega (the kind Arduino boards use) or Microchip (probably 18f series) or AVR. I'm sure there are others. Depending on your level experience you may decide to go with Arduino (which are a little more expensive (usually $15+) then the others but includes it's own programmer (assuming you get one that has the USB on the board) and are easy to program (Arduino IDE has lots of code examples)) or you can go for a more low level one like a Microchip 18f4550 ($5) for example and program in C (I think this costs) or assembly (free) but you'll need to understand registers and some of the lower level aspects to microcontrollers (however there are free very in depth datasheets that will give you all the information (you'll just need a few months to digest it).
Those are just some ideas, this projects sounds quite awesome though. It may take you a 6 month to year to do though.
I'm a big fan of the S5 because it is the only phone I'm aware of with both a removable battery and wireless charging (with Samsung's back cover accessory), but it seems like its greatest weakness is the lack of RAM compared to newer phones. I've read that the RAM is soldered to the motherboard, but I'm curious if there are any "hardcore" users out there that have successfully upgraded the RAM chip in their phone?
Nerva said:
I'm a big fan of the S5 because it is the only phone I'm aware of with both.........
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is not possible...
The Internal Memory is Micro-Soldered but, the Android Software is specially designed for the Memory it currently has.
The software specific to the Internal Memory will always remain as part of the hardware within the system itself.
Even Custom Firmware doesn't touch this. The Firmware ROM just reads/detects what's hard coded for its installation to proceed.
It's hard to explain but, I had done my best... LMAO!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
UNLESS asked to do so, PLEASE don't PM me regarding support. Sent using The ClaRetoX Forum App on my SM-G900V device.
There was this case of some chinese guy who managed to increase his nexus 5X ram by making some serious modifications
https://www.xda-developers.com/nexus-5x-hardware-modded-to-upgrade-ram-from-2gb-to-4gb/
As you may have noticed, its a fairly difficult process which requires profesional help in order to sucess.
If you're on a roadtrip to China maybe you could find someone capable of such a feat, if that's so, please post the results!
It had been done ages ago and with hardware with much courser structures, like the original Apple Mac with standard DIL DRAMS. Basically a second dram must be soldered upon another plus a few wire wrap wires across the pcb. Atari used this method in the 520 STplus to double the original 520 ST's RAM. Not totally impossible on the S5, this.
Hi all,
If you want to greatly improve the way your head unit works, sounds and looks like - you've come to the right place!
Why install this?
With this package you will greatly improve:
Stability
Speed
User Interface
Sound tweaking options
Customization options
Following our previous Super MOD guide, we have now completed a new project, this time on a newer YT9216BJ head unit running the Android 6 API23 operating system (fake Android 8.1, 9.0 and 9.1).
If your head unit is Android 8 API 27 (fake Android 10 or 11), proceed to this guide instead.
This guide is for YT9216BJ units with 1 Gb RAM and 16Gb flash with no physical buttons*.
ON PHYSICAL BUTTONS: this software has only been tested on head units with no physical buttons (like volume) | Before making any changes, access the CAR SETTINGS -> FACTORY SETTINGS -> ENCODER SETTINGS on your head unit and take a screenshot of the current settings (see example below). After installing the package, go back to these settings and adjust them if needed. If that doesn't help and if you can't successfully re-calibrate the buttons after installing the firmware, restore your backup
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Do not use this package if your unit is "HIFI" or has a separate radio chip installed (A or NXP series)
!! TAKE A PICTURE OF YOUR SYSTEM INFO AND KERNEL VERSION BEFORE DOING ANYTHING TO YOUR HEAD UNIT !!
Disclaimer
I do not create the software itself but rather use research and put together different mods and hacks into one package that includes very user-friendly step-by-step instructions on how to install it all. You will find the links to original posts in the instructions pdf's if credit is due. The software might include smaller changes made by me and has been fully tested in real units.
>>>This mod only works on units with screen resolution of 1024x600 px. It will not work on Tesla-style units<<<
The Software Package contains:
Custom Android 6 firmware for YT9216BJ
ROOT (SuperSU)
TWRP Recovery
Viper4Android / Viper4A / ViperFX
Custom UI (Car Launcher)
Custom Boot Animation
. . .
!! ALWAYS BACKUP YOUR UNIT BEFORE MAKING ANY CHANGES TO IT!!
DOWNLOAD #4
ExtremeMOD Software Package & Drivers - YT9216BJ
STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE (upgrading from working stock firmware):
DO NOT SKIP ANY STEPS, AND INSTALL EVERYTHING IN THE CORRECT ORDER. STEPS 5 AND 6 ARE MOST CRITICAL.
Proceed to download the software package for your unit and the drivers package in the same folder
It's highly recommended to do these upgrades with your unit connected on your desktop, rather than in the car. Video Guide
Install the Mediatek & ADB drivers on your Windows computer. Video Guide - use the same principle for ADB drivers.
Backup your current system by exporting a full memory dump. Video Guide
Import back your memory dump from step-5 to ensure it fully works. This is how.
Install the package. Separate instructions are included in every folder of the downloaded zip file. Follow them by the order.
IF THIS SOFTWARE PACKAGE HAS BRICKED YOUR HEAD UNIT AND YOU HAVE YOUR BACKUP AVAILABLE, follow the steps below:
DO NOT SKIP ANY STEPS, AND INSTALL EVERYTHING IN THE CORRECT ORDER.
It's highly recommended to do these upgrades with your unit connected on your desktop, rather than in the car. Follow this post on how to do that.
Install the Mediatek & ADB drivers on your Windows computer. Video Guide - use the same principle for ADB drivers - (download link is in the video description)
Watch this video on Test Point recovery
Import back your memory dump. This is how.
If successful - try to install the software package again or stay with your original one
IF THIS SOFTWARE PACKAGE HAS BRICKED YOUR HEAD UNIT AND YOU HAVE NO BACKUP AVAILABLE, follow the steps below:
Share the pictures of your System Info and Kernel in this thread and I'll try to help you
** IF YOU ARE UNABLE TO RESTORE YOUR UNIT, PLEASE CONSIDER DONATING IT TO US @ ExtremeMOD, SO WE CAN BUILD MORE MODS AND TUTORIALS---------------------------------------------------------
This post is being frequently updated and you'll find more guides and mods our forum signature---------------------------------------------------------
Thanks! And if this post is helpful to you please don't forget to "like" it.
Enjoy!
[V4A][VIPER4ANDROID][ViperFX][ROOT][TWRP][8227L][YT9216BJ]
Hello,
I want to use this guide for my head unit. But it says YT9216CJ, I have included pictures.
Also how do you connect this to a PC/laptop?
Highlites said:
Hello,
I want to use this guide for my head unit. But it says YT9216CJ, I have included pictures.
Also how do you connect this to a PC/laptop?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The easiest way is to buy a 12v 5A power adapter. Something like this. Then connect the RED (acc) and the YELLOW (B) cable to + (plus) and the black (ground) cable to - (minus).
That's good idea. I have many 12 volts adapters that I can use and strip them. I know that's unsafe and could potentially fry the unit.
I'm assuming a type a to type a cable is needed to connect it to a computer?
Highlites said:
That's good idea. I have many 12 volts adapters that I can use and strip them. I know that's unsafe and could potentially fry the unit.
I'm assuming a type a to type a cable is needed to connect it to a computer?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You will not fry the unit if you use at least 12V and max 14V adapter with a minimum amperage of 5A.
When you connect the cables, just put some electrical tape around the connections so they don't touch each other.
Yes you'll need a USB-A cable of maximum 90 cm long.
The next step would be to read the guides on how to install drivers in order to access the unit.
Highlites said:
Hello,
I want to use this guide for my head unit. But it says YT9216CJ, I have included pictures.
Also how do you connect this to a PC/laptop?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would advise against using this mod on your unit as it does not support "HIFI" models. I am currently working on an Android 8 super mod and that includes everything. Stay tuned.
The new guide for Android 8 units is now available. It covers all Android 10 and 11 fakes.
Can my unit follow this guide or should I follow another One?
madsurfer1 said:
Can my unit follow this guide or should I follow another One?View attachment 5389371
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would probably recommend the Android 8 software package instead.
iceblue1980 said:
I would probably recommend the Android 8 software package instead.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thank you so much for your anwser
I only want root so I can enable multi-window, is it an easier to get root?
Thank you
madsurfer1 said:
thank you so much for your anwser
I only want root so I can enable multi-window, is it an easier to get root?
Thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The proper root for this unit requires modified firmware. You can of course try without it but chances are you'll either brick your unit or in "best" case get unstable root.
Just gotta say I urgently wave anyone off of this project as it is.
Most importantly this line of tablets sucks. The screen sucks, the specs suck, the performance sucks, it's max 2g crap that'll still suck after it's hacked, the screen glare is laughable/day-unusable, it crashes, stops responding to physical buttons randomly, and it has no amp which will throw unsuspecting people. The audio it does provide is a total diarrhea blast through a cheap rca canbus adapter with ground interference for miles so again, you better have a rated amp and isolater for your speakers and know audio wiring. Also hey the software is clearly disingenuous chinese spycrap that would probably try to kindnap your child if it could, to the point that I don't know if I'd even trust root hunting to find all the lies.
Past that I can't endorse this tutorial either I'm afraid. Look at the failure/success ratio in this thread already and add mine to the failure pile.
Modders are going to get into this and dl a folder sequence that looks step by step for each but then opens up into different subinstructions requiring knowledge bases you didn't know you needed until you're in it. You're gonna be messing with device manager and secure boot modes in windows and custom power wiring outside the car just to get going. To deal with that you're going to go down more forum nightmares mid way, stuff that should all be on a unified 1,2,3,4 instruction set in the main post imo. I'm capable and I'd call this written procedure luring unsuspecting people into bad times.
I had to bail on this project some weeks ago after that "boot into secure mode in windows to install temporary unsigned USB drivers (which can revert and fail while you're working on the project with so much as a windows update) just to get it to communicate" process. Then of course it never did communicate, step by step trying across 3 devices in specifiied acc wiring positions and every other attempt under the sun. This is of course after you've and soldered up this failure of a unit to a power source to hack it outside the car which is ridiculous to need to do in itself, and a dozen more things most people wouldn't sign up for if it were made a bit more clear.
I'd be willing factory reboot and get that guy from the android 8 thread the clean yt9216bj image except I don't want to waste day 4 screwing with the non working ass-up usb/windows head unit software.
The product itself is obviously not worth it and...rant but yeah this tutorial suffers from the super common XDA problem where the author is super tech skilled!...but just too in their own head to relate 1:1 what regular people need to know as if visitors were working along side them all year. I respect all the work that went in but imo this as presented seems to be tanking people's efforts and stress them out. It'd be more worth it to risk the brick if this were a hack that you shove in the usb and it goes. It's very not that.
At the time of writing I suggest saving yourself xda therapy costs, spend on a cruthfield screen that actually works, is nice, you can see in the daytime, you can mod into an enclosure yourself, and will probably have a way easier hack with much better function before and very much after a hack. I'm probably going to shove an m80 into this aptly named BJ unit and explode it like the chinese firework trash it is.
sylcat said:
Just gotta say I urgently wave anyone off of this project as it is.
Most importantly this line of tablets sucks. The screen sucks, the specs suck, the performance sucks, it's max 2g crap that'll still suck after it's hacked, the screen glare is laughable/day-unusable, it crashes, stops responding to physical buttons randomly, and it has no amp which will throw unsuspecting people. The audio it does provide is a total diarrhea blast through a cheap rca canbus adapter with ground interference for miles so again, you better have a rated amp and isolater for your speakers and know audio wiring. Also hey the software is clearly disingenuous chinese spycrap that would probably try to kindnap your child if it could, to the point that I don't know if I'd even trust root hunting to find all the lies.
Past that I can't endorse this tutorial either I'm afraid. Look at the failure/success ratio in this thread already and add mine to the failure pile.
Modders are going to get into this and dl a folder sequence that looks step by step for each but then opens up into different subinstructions requiring knowledge bases you didn't know you needed until you're in it. You're gonna be messing with device manager and secure boot modes in windows and custom power wiring outside the car just to get going. To deal with that you're going to go down more forum nightmares mid way, stuff that should all be on a unified 1,2,3,4 instruction set in the main post imo. I'm capable and I'd call this written procedure luring unsuspecting people into bad times.
I had to bail on this project some weeks ago after that "boot into secure mode in windows to install temporary unsigned USB drivers (which can revert and fail while you're working on the project with so much as a windows update) just to get it to communicate" process. Then of course it never did communicate, step by step trying across 3 devices in specifiied acc wiring positions and every other attempt under the sun. This is of course after you've and soldered up this failure of a unit to a power source to hack it outside the car which is ridiculous to need to do in itself, and a dozen more things most people wouldn't sign up for if it were made a bit more clear.
I'd be willing factory reboot and get that guy from the android 8 thread the clean yt9216bj image except I don't want to waste day 4 screwing with the non working ass-up usb/windows head unit software.
The product itself is obviously not worth it and...rant but yeah this tutorial suffers from the super common XDA problem where the author is super tech skilled!...but just too in their own head to relate 1:1 what regular people need to know as if visitors were working along side them all year. I respect all the work that went in but imo this as presented seems to be tanking people's efforts and stress them out. It'd be more worth it to risk the brick if this were a hack that you shove in the usb and it goes. It's very not that.
At the time of writing I suggest saving yourself xda therapy costs, spend on a cruthfield screen that actually works, is nice, you can see in the daytime, you can mod into an enclosure yourself, and will probably have a way easier hack with much better function before and very much after a hack. I'm probably going to shove an m80 into this aptly named BJ unit and explode it like the chinese firework trash it is.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
First of all, really sorry to hear you had such an unfortunate experience.
Now let me add a few points to your feedback.
1. You need an understanding of both PC computers and Android devices to attempt this. Would you try to repair your car with zero knowledge or experience?
It's also a good practice to look through all the steps and tutorials before deciding whether this is something you wish to attempt.
2. The reason I create these guides is to give the users one-stop software solution in one thread. I couldn't find similar guides here.
3. Software packages are cleaned from the bugs and issues you would normally experience in these units and overall improvements are considerable. If you check the video in my signature, tell me - does this seem like a slow unit? And it's only 1Gb RAM one.
4. These software packages perform even better with appropriate hardware mods. Especially the sound quality. You can check out this website for more info.
5. Users who experience issues post here. But this package alone has over 300 downloads. This indicates high success ratio.
I also help individual users by PM.
Thanks again for your feedback
iceblue1980 said:
First of all, really sorry to hear you had such an unfortunate experience.
Now let me add a few points to your feedback.
1. You need an understanding of both PC computers and Android devices to attempt this. Would you try to repair your car with zero knowledge or experience?
It's also a good practice to look through all the steps and tutorials before deciding whether this is something you wish to attempt.
2. The reason I create these guides is to give the users one-stop software solution in one thread. I couldn't find similar guides here.
3. Software packages are cleaned from the bugs and issues you would normally experience in these units and overall improvements are considerable. If you check the video in my signature, tell me - does this seem like a slow unit? And it's only 1Gb RAM one.
4. These software packages perform even better with appropriate hardware mods. Especially the sound quality. You can check out this website for more info.
5. Users who experience issues post here. But this package alone has over 300 downloads. This indicates high success ratio.
I also help individual users by PM.
Thanks again for your feedback
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, let's go point for point a little bit.
1.) Yeah but when was that in question unless you're mayyybe trying to sass a bit? My personal experience is plenty for this, enough to multimeter my harness pin by pin, design a custom wire harness with 3d printed parts, run debugs with my obd, reconnect lane cams, write my own android apps if I feel like and on and on. My point is to warn to readers that these instructions are pretty deceptive about how involved it is skillwise and just needs a simplification redo. My problems might have been isolated hardware failure, I still don't know after tons of debugging.
2.) Cool, noble, etc etc, you're very nice for doing it. I just want people here to write clearer I guess. Sorry I landed on your project to express it. Years of XDA and it's so much life lost to information gaps / gotcha tutorials. That gets pointed out and it's usually ego mania. Take some crit, XDA posters could really learn what a tutorial format that communicates to most everyone should look like instead of assuming their skill at that is also great thus providing good intented tuts that cause uh....pain.
3.) It'd be fun to test myself but it doesn't work. Looks functional sure. Speedy compared to current gen anything after esp hacks? Nawwww. If you're cool with it chugging after one or two background process I get it. Waze eats enough. While it won't be everyone, if you use a screen with more expectation I again advise against this hardware.
4.) Again for people considering this, how much extra hardware and wiring do you want to buy and staple to a piece of crap and shove behind the head unit to make it almost not suck? How many 3rd party peripherals do you want back there doing one job? Are the manhours you'll spend trying to reign this unpolishable turd in monetarily marginally close to worth it? Appreciative to the hack effort if you're stuck with this screen. If you haven't bought it friggen doooon't.
5.) I argue since silence is not success confirmation it could just as easily indicate people downloading it, the process failing, them not wanting to continue with a newly recognized tragedy of a device, and possibly just dying of dysentary right there while reading the instructions which are in 8 different folders
sylcat said:
Well, let's go point for point a little bit.
1.) Yeah but when was that in question unless you're mayyybe trying to sass a bit? My personal experience is plenty for this, enough to multimeter my harness pin by pin, design a custom wire harness with 3d printed parts, run debugs with my obd, reconnect lane cams, write my own android apps if I feel like and on and on. My point is to warn to readers that these instructions are pretty deceptive about how involved it is skillwise and just needs a simplification redo. My problems might have been isolated hardware failure, I still don't know after tons of debugging.
2.) Cool, noble, etc etc, you're very nice for doing it. I just want people here to write clearer I guess. Sorry I landed on your project to express it. Years of XDA and it's so much life lost to information gaps / gotcha tutorials. That gets pointed out and it's usually ego mania. Take some crit, XDA posters could really learn what a tutorial format that communicates to most everyone should look like instead of assuming their skill at that is also great thus providing good intented tuts that cause uh....pain.
3.) It'd be fun to test myself but it doesn't work. Looks functional sure. Speedy compared to current gen anything after esp hacks? Nawwww. If you're cool with it chugging after one or two background process I get it. Waze eats enough. While it won't be everyone, if you use a screen with more expectation I again advise against this hardware.
4.) Again for people considering this, how much extra hardware and wiring do you want to buy and staple to a piece of crap and shove behind the head unit to make it almost not suck? How many 3rd party peripherals do you want back there doing one job? Are the manhours you'll spend trying to reign this unpolishable turd in monetarily marginally close to worth it? Appreciative to the hack effort if you're stuck with this screen. If you haven't bought it friggen doooon't.
5.) I argue since silence is not success confirmation it could just as easily indicate people downloading it, the process failing, them not wanting to continue with a newly recognized tragedy of a device, and possibly just dying of dysentary right there while reading the instructions which are in 8 different folders
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1. Why not explain what were the issues you encountered?
2. It has taken me a couple of years to learn how to properly work with these units. I tried my best to write as easy to follow guide as I can. I'm grateful for feedback as it helps me improve these guides. They are continously revised. I'm not paid to do this and it is a fairly time consuming undertaking.
3. Current gen Androids are an unfair competition to hacked and re-hacked Android 6 or 8. On the other hand, you can't do much with anything above API 27. Forget about rooting, Viper and TWRP. Also be prepared to pay hundreds of dollars for these units. People who buy Mediatek head units, normally can't spend such money but still deserve great results. This is why I share these mods packages. And it's completely free. All it takes is time and patience.
4. People here and on similar forums are many times interested in making improvements without spending loads of cash and might already have some basic equipment and skills. I haven't posted any hardware mods guides yet but I'm going to.
There are no 3rd party peripherals required. Most of the spare parts can be found in old computers. We at Extrememod.co.uk use premium spare parts as we sell these units fully modified (for charity, no profits) but it's not a requirement.
5. All I can do is to encourage users to post here so I can help if needed.
Cheers
I spent a few days as I said fighting it after it all fell down during the USB unsigned driver portion of the project. Across 3 pcs, driver reinstalls, pin verifications, living in device manager, 12 tech forums tabs open and everything else under the sun the software just refuses to communicate with the screen in any way.
I don't remember everything, I'll get you verbose logs if I ever touch this project again but don't hold your breath. I'm surely bitter over wasted time but in general the nature of in car entertainment cheapouts that need these hacks to even start limping have caused me to reevaluate life itself and what not to waste it on so I'm just pulling the trigger on a Model 3 finally. Screen problem solved for me I guess
My suggestion for readers considering buying remains to run far away if you're not already stuck with the hardware. But if you are and you have infinite patience trying to buff it up then I guess keep harassing poor iceblue here until your hack works and weeew I do wish you all luck!
sylcat said:
I spent a few days as I said fighting it after it all fell down during the USB unsigned driver portion of the project. Across 3 pcs, driver reinstalls, pin verifications, living in device manager, 12 tech forums tabs open and everything else under the sun the software just refuses to communicate with the screen in any way.
I don't remember everything, I'll get you verbose logs if I ever touch this project again but don't hold your breath. I'm surely bitter over wasted time but in general the nature of in car entertainment cheapouts that need these hacks to even start limping have caused me to reevaluate life itself and what not to waste it on so I'm just pulling the trigger on a Model 3 finally. Screen problem solved for me I guess
My suggestion for readers considering buying remains to run far away if you're not already stuck with the hardware. But if you are and you have infinite patience trying to buff it up then I guess keep harassing poor iceblue here until your hack works and weeew I do wish you all luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you are unable to restore your unit, I can have a look at it if you can post me the motherboard. I live in UK. If that's not an option, why not donate it rather than throwing it in the bin? I can arrange pickup if it's within reasonable postage fees.
I'd donate but the math will never work out. It's installed in the honda which I'm selling already, so it'd take pulling it out which us my time+shipping hassle from the states. If I pull it out it's easily worth the $250 cost of the unit in therapy to see it *explode* and I'm not joking so I doubt you're gonna front that too. :v I mean also I don't really want anything about these boards perpetuated. If the next buyer doesn't want it in there it's getting smashed. These kinds of posts I make again to save people time on caaaancerous base products.
sylcat said:
I'd donate but the math will never work out. It's installed in the honda which I'm selling already, so it'd take pulling it out which us my time+shipping hassle from the states. If I pull it out it's easily worth the $250 cost of the unit in therapy to see it *explode* and I'm not joking so I doubt you're gonna front that too. :v I mean also I don't really want anything about these boards perpetuated. If the next buyer doesn't want it in there it's getting smashed. These kinds of posts I make again to save people time on caaaancerous base products.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I understand. I actually care about people succeeding with these mods. You can clearly see how much time I'm putting into these guides and helping people with any issues that come up.
I even offer repairing boards, for free. Donation is a last resort if someone wants to throw their head unit into the bin.
Any modification, as it's essentially a hack - means you're taking a risk. But with proper backup, the risk of ruining your head unit is minimal, as you can always restore it back to what it was.
Again, I'm sorry it didn't work out for you but the issue isn't with the software nor the guides as the success rates are overwhelmingly high, judging from the feedback I receive here and on my website.
@iceblue1980
Do you know of a way to get live wallpapers working?