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That's pretty much my question. I read the thread talking about doing this with aftermarket ones, and wish I had read it before I applied mine. I got dust under mine. basically want to know if I can wash the one that came with the Fuze and put it back on, before I spend 20 bucks to have a new one shipped to me.
The short answer is "Yes"
Lukewarm water is a good place to start, and don't bother to try to get the "down" side (the sticky side) completely dry: just flap about a bit until most of the water shakes off.
Might find it works better if you have some non-greasy soap around - note that most of the soaps available today will leave their OWN residue behind!
Another handy trick for removing spots of DUST is to simply pick them up with tape. This technique is particularly worthwhile if your only complaint is a small number of dust spots that you can remove (with the tape) by only having to lift one corner of the cover.
Find that a microfiber cloth does a good job with the Exterior service of the screen cover, with a bit of "Safe For Coated Lens" cleaner sprayed on the cloth if the cover is particularly grimy....
Why would you when they only cost a few pence!!!!
I just use regular seetrough tape, apply it all around, rub it on tight, then pull it of. after that apply it imidiatly to the phone, otherwise it'll collect dust again.
water didn't work on mine.
@jim: you would because this is FREE, no trouble and no waiting for your products (some people can only order them online from other countries and have to wait a week (or 2) ). + I think the factory one is the best (I have a differrent one but I liked the factory the best)
Thanx for the help. I heard the factory one was the best as well, that is why I wanted to stick with that one. That being said, I was using my phone in the car the other day,(not whilst driving) and forgot I left it on my lap, and well got out. long story short I guess I'll have to order a new one anyway. the phone made it alright, just 2 small chips. lucky i had the screen protector on though. Any one know of any as good as factory?
I just put a Martin Fields protector on my Fuze and love it. It's definitely on par if not better than the factory one.
Have an Exim screen protector on its way, but don't expect to receive it until early (hopefully) next week.
Have also been pleasantly surprised by the included screen cover - but wish they had included a protector for the keypad area as well. At the moment, intent is to mount the Exim's keypad cover once it arrives and save the screen cover until ready to replace the OEM one.
Pricing on screen covers varies widely: have had good luck with Boxwave covers for my Axim, but am ready to try some of the less expensive options with the Fuze.
Mattijn106 said:
I just use regular seetrough tape, apply it all around, rub it on tight, then pull it of. after that apply it imidiatly to the phone, otherwise it'll collect dust again.
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you can use the steam trick, go into a small bathroom and run the hot water until there is a lot of steam. This will drop the dust particles from the air, ensuring you don't get any dust on the screen or protector while applying.
bboyneko said:
you can use the steam trick, go into a small bathroom and run the hot water until there is a lot of steam. This will drop the dust particles from the air, ensuring you don't get any dust on the screen or protector while applying.
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I hope you mean just the screen protector...
taking your phone in a steamy room is just stuipid
gbueh said:
I hope you mean just the screen protector...
taking your phone in a steamy room is just stuipid
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Click to collapse
im sure nothing will happen to your phone in a steamy room
unless condensation occurs inside the phone, you're fine
i have so many phones
i always bring them into the bathroom,
i just leave it on the counter
i have never had a broken phone due to steam
not a porn site ;-)
These are reasonable priced and offer excellent protection.
http://www.bestskinsever.com/servlet/StoreFront
it's awesome way to remove dust by tape so i tested it and success with me
Something I always liked about my Kaiser was having a lanyard attached to it. I did this after dropping it a couple of times due to it slipping out of my hand.
As the HD2 is even more slippery in my fingers and probably more likely to shatter or break on dropping, I was disappointed that there was no lanyard hole.
I contemplated drilling a hole in battery cover but didn't have a drill. So I've duct taped a lanyard onto the back, a la the attached pic.
First I lay the lanyard ring on the back and threaded duct tape through it, locking the lanyard ring to the phone. Then I layered a bit more duct tape on top to give it some strength.
It may look a bit messy and I could have done it neater. At the end of the day it will (hopefully) stop me dropping and breaking a £500 phone which I'm happy about. It's also surprisingly strong and will give an indication before it eventually gives way. Takes about 2 minutes.
Edit: Ugly duct tape method replaced by neater black tape version.
Edit2: Video howto added: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yL3owsWT3E4
Disclaimer: If you try this and end up dropping your HD2 anyway, I accept no responsibility!
That could be the worst monstrosity to a HD2 Ive ever seen.
Haha, you may be right. But I don't have a mobile phone to look pretty, I have it to use it and rely on it to be working when I need it, not broken into 100 pieces on the floor.
Here's a neater black tape version. Not sure it will be as strong as the first though.
Biffy said:
Here's a neater black tape version. Not sure it will be as strong as the first though.
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looks sooo fragile , also u should try take it to a gravire-er if u dont have a drill and make a hole suitable
Job done no messing!
I can't understand why HC didnt add a lanyard bar and at the end of the day your solution will work and probably save your phone one day.
Nice graduated background on your photo and good image quality, what camera did you use?
It's the Panasonic FT1. A little waterproof compact.
Combining duct tape as the first layer and then black tape over for neatness is the best solution so far.
I've also considered super gluing the lanyard into the 3.5mm jack, but know I'd regret doing it straight after!
well, you guys aint the first to do this.
i invented a similar design a few weeks ago, mine used a 1" belt, meaning it can be strapped to your waist any time you like, safe as houses and pretty cool aesthetically
Final version
After a bit of testing, this is the final method I will use.
Some folded black tape under the battery cover. The battery cover adds extra strength to the tape and it looks so much neater than the Duct tape.
to be honest, that is just ugly. sorry.
I also missed such a whole for it, as I also did that with my Kaiser.
Now I sticked to a Silicon/Plastic Combi Case
why dont you get a jelly case or something like that and you can make hole in it. tape will hold fora few days only
I'm going to get a case as well I think. But the tape solution outlined which is partly under the battery case will last a lot longer than a few days.
The tape should only be under any pressure if you're about to drop your HD2, which won't be that often and then the weight isn't that great.
I think it's a great idea, and the 'under battery cover' mod (V 1.3? ) looks fine. I'm going to try copying it so I can clip it to my handbag, but with fishing line for the loop.
Mariad said:
I think it's a great idea, and the 'under battery cover' mod (V 1.3? ) looks fine. I'm going to try copying it so I can clip it to my handbag, but with fishing line for the loop.
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Click to collapse
Yeah, I agree. The third version looks nice and clean! The only question is: What did you attach the tape to? To the cover itself? Because I wonder how much strength it requires to pull off the cover and if that wouldn't happen if the device falls...
EDIT: I love how you labeled this a "hack"!
I attached the tape to the plastic under the cover, where the sim card is. I'll put a quick video together to illustrate.
I left it hanging by the lanyard last night, for about 7 hours, 7 feet in the air, no probs. It's not intended to be pulled as hard as a regular lanyard loop may be, but for a precaution if the phone slips from your hands. And then it will be fine.
And here's the not very good howto video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yL3owsWT3E4
I dont mean to jinx you or anything, but the piece of string from the lanyard could easily split the single layer of duct tape where it's folded.. that's going to be where the weak point is....especially considering the weight of the HD2. It's not going to matter how many pieces of tape you've got under the batter cover.
Now if you were to have your HD2 on a desk or in your pocket, the temptation of grabbing it by the lanyard will be there... or if someone else decided to yank the lanyard.....
I'd suggest trying that method of attachment on something of a similar weight and shaking it around for a bit to see how the duct tape handles.
Remember... the HD2 screen is thin glass... One drop on a hard surface or if it lands at the wrong angle, it'll be time to order a new one!
I've tested it by pulling far more strongly on the lanyard than it ever would be subjected to in real use. I was able to pull it hard about 20 times before the tape started to give way. By then it was visibly starting to tear away, so you should have a good warning before it breaks. It will perfectly suit my needs anyway and I might try doubling the tape up for more strength next. Also, I think this could be improved by using even stronger tape.
Very good on the last release.
Great idea, man.
I'm going to try, but I've only two left hands....
Pink strap should be nice too ;-)
Well it's me again.
This time, i had some spare time and thought of making something i wanted to do for some time ago. It's my first time doing this (although i'm familiar with the process since i use it for PCB making) but i thought i should give it a try. And in great recognition of what the XDA community enabled us - the users - to do with our phones, i wanted to brand my phone's battery cover with the XDA logo next to the andoid logo, the thing (os) that xda developers made possible to us. Ah and in the xda spirit, i thought it would be kind of cool to handcraft the design of that battery cover.
Here's the story of today's afternoon for me
...and possibly a guide for you, daring folks around there who just happen to have a spare scratched and ugly looking battery cover like i did
So.. i had this hd2 battery cover, from a dead HD2 that i have (poor fellow died during testing of the cpu bga problems and my tries to find a fix for them). The battery cover was in really bad shape, scratched, the finish was torn out.. looked like... crap.
I saw a topic around here about how to make your battery cover to a chrome-like finish by using some sandpaper and stuff like that. I think the idea is good, but the result is well... too shiny for my taste...and i want a "custom made one". I also wanted to have the xda and android logos onto the battery cover but i could not afford some laser etching on it, i can't even find one shop to do this here were i live in Romania. So here's how i did it.
1. I opted for a brushed metal design. A clear look design is just to shiny for my taste and... well, i guess it scratches more easily. So, using sandpaper, i've begun clearing away the original paint on the battery cover. When i was done with that, i begun sanding in only one direction and in straight line, in order to have a more symmetrical brushed metal look.
After some time sanding and after changing the sandpaper roughness to more finer ones, here's how it looked. Note that this is not the final design.
2. Next i needed some sort of logo - the stuff i'll be putting on the battery cover. I googled around, and got the xda text and android logo. I've edited them to a black&white design (you'll see later why..) and it looked like this.
3. I mirrored the logo, using irfan view and selecting horizontal flip from the image dropdown menu. You'll also see why. Then I've printed the logo onto a glossy a4 paper sheet, like the ones used for foto printing. I've used a laser printer, this is really necessary, inkjet ones won't work for what i'm about to do. You'll also see why
4. I draw some guiding lines for helping me center the image once i place the battery cover over it. Here's how i did.
5. I now placed the battery cover over the sheet of paper, using the lines i already drawn as a template to help me center it. As the image is mirrored, as you may guess, i will be transferring the logo from the paper to the metal surface and once there, it will look normal (not mirrored). More on that later. I also secured the paper to the battery cover with some electrical tape. Don't get upset, you'll also see why.
6. Well, i did use some fair amount of electrical tape to secure that piece of paper to the metallic surface. It needs to be as stretched as possible, not able to move around.
7. I used a smoothing iron (i don't know the exact word in english, aah, that thing you use to smooth out clothes) to heat up and press the piece of paper to the metallic surface. I pressed the iron and move it around the logo zone for about 15 minutes, at maximum temperature. Because the battery cover is not exactly flat, i was careful to follow the contour in order to leave no metal part unheated.
8. I then placed the heated battery cover with the paper on it, under a jet of cold water. I left it under the water for 15 minutes. This is important. The water must be cold, never use hot water.
9. I carefully begun peeling of the paper from the metallic part.
10. I peeled of almost all the paper, one thin layer still remained over the logo area. Don't rush things, place it under a water jet for yet another 5 minutes.
11. Ahh, there it is, the thing starts to look like something, ain't it
12. In the photo above, you can see that the toner from the paper was transferred to the metallic piece. That's why you need a laser printer, because of this property of it's toner. And also that's why you needed to heat it up with the iron. In fact, you're simulating what the laser printer does every time when you print something. Well, you done it on a curved metal piece.
In this last picture you'll also see that the logo isn't exactly 100% black, there are some grey or white spots on it. That's residual paper left over it. If you carefully rub it with your finger or a fine brush, you can actually remove it if you insist. You'll get a pure black logo (or other color if you wish and if you have a color laser printer available). At this stage you could also stop, if you like a black/color logo. You could then apply some lacquer, the spray-able variety to preserve the surface from scratches. I chose another design so i will go on with some other steps from here.
13. If you want something different, you may skip rubbing the logo to remove all the paper. If the logo looks as in the above picture, you're good to go for the next step. Remove the metallic piece from the jet of water and let it dry. If while it's wet you see that the black toner has gone away from some points, you'll need to use a little bit of paint to cover them out (you'll also see why). So if you see points where the toner is gone (after you removed the paper at the 9-10 steps) try to memorize where the areas affected are, then let the piece of metal to dry out for some half hour. After it's dry, you'll probably see that it turned kind of gray or even white-ish. It's no problem, it's normal, but it will be harder now to see those affected areas i was talking about before. That's why you memorized them. Now use a paint marker (one that has real paint in it, not the ones used to write on cd's or similar to those) or if you can't get one, you may also use some fingernail polish. Make some small dots over the affected areas. After you complete this, let the paint/fingernail polish to dry out. Be careful not to spoil the logo YOU WILL HAVE TO START OVER FROM STEP 1 IF YOU GET IT WRONG HERE... and that sucks )
14. After the paint has dried out, place the metallic piece under a water jet again. Cold water. Remove it after 1 minute, recheck for afected areas, if you still find them, you'll have to let the thing dry out again, and cover those parts with paint dots, again.
Here's mine.
and here's once i've done with the painting
After you're done, leave the whole thing to dry out for about 1 hour.
15. Get yourself some ferric chloride. You can get it from electronic components store, radioshack etc. It's used in electronics by hobbyists who want to etch their own pcb's. You'll need this stuff also. About 300ml will do.. The stuff is toxic, you don't want to touch it or spill it over clothes or other things, it will leave out some nasty spots that you can't remove. Use some gloves while handling this stuff. Now pour the ferric chloride into a plastic recipient big enough to fit the battery cover into.
Well i ignored the safety tip, but i'm being careful, i know the stuff, have been working with it for some good years.
16. Now you want to drop the battery cover...into the black stuff . Drop it with the logo side up. NOT DOWN. I really mean it. UP. Carefully swing the plastic recipient, just enough to move the liquid around. Try not to expose the metallic part, you must keep it submerged all the time. If you want to check the progress, be quick, lean the plastic recipient to one side just to expose the metallic piece, look at it, but then quickly lean the recipient back and keep the metallic piece submerged. Prolonged exposure to air in this stage can ruin your progress.
Here's how mine looks after 5 minutes into the ferric chloride. You'll be wanting to keep the metallic plate there for about 15-20 minutes. If you let it longer it will turn to a more darker color. If you let it just for 10 minutes you'll get a light gray. However you can't get an uniform black (or something as dark as an original battery cover) because if you let it this much you risk that the ferric chloride attacks the toner and paint surface, making holes in it or braking it apart.
Like i've said, here's the thing after 5 minutes. I want to let it for another 10-15 minutes.
17.
Once you left it for enough time, lean back the plastic recipient and look at the metallic piece once more. Take note that the color you see now will get a bit lighter once the whole process is finished. If you're satisfied, prepare a big water boll and quickly remove the metallic piece from the ferric chloride and drop it in the water. Be as quick as possible, while being careful not to drop the ferric chloride. Use gloves when doing this. Once the metallic piece is in the water, steer up the water with your hand.
Here's how mine looks now.
Your plate could be lighter or darker at this stage, depending on how much you left it in the ferric chloride. Don't worry if the color is not uniform. Instead, while the plate is still under water, get yourself a kitchen sponge, the one with one abrasive side and with the metallic plate still under water start rubbing it on the direction of the original brushed metal design you made in the start. Rub in only one direction, with the sponge and the plate always under water and continue to do so until the color becomes more uniform. Then use some isopropyl alcohol (also from radioshack - or the place you got the ferric chloride from.. they should also have this) and remove the metallic board from under the water. Now while the thing is still wet (don't let it dry!!!), get another sponge (clean dry one) and pour some isopropyl alcohol on the abrasive part and start rubbing the metallic piece once more, on the same and only direction (not back and forth). Rub in a parallel direction with the original scratches that makes your "brushed" design. The isopropyl alcohol should begin to disolve the toner and the paint. It should also help you to remove residual oxides left since you placed the metallic piece into the ferric chloride.
Here's my progress.
toner is starting to break down
18. aaaand... in the end, if you did it right, you should have something like this :
19. once the surface is of uniform color, wash the whole thing under a jet of hot water with some soap to remove any residues left by the chemical processes.
20. You're done! Now you have your custom made-hand crafted-geeky-logo. The logo itself won't peel off and the surrounding stuff is actually chemically embedded into the metal by a process similar to industrial aluminum anodizing (the same process used to cure aluminum used in unibody designs). Although it is scratch resistant to some degree, you may want to use some spray lacquer to protect your work.
I haven't got any lacquer yet but i'll use some if i can get some quality stuff. Here are some more photos with the thing so far.
(please excuse the photo quality, my camera and it's flash produces a weird looking effect, it seems that the metallic thing is kind of made from small dots, not brushed metal.. damned thing.. guess i'll be needing a new one)
...and a small video (with the same crappy camera)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtuRn02lPgY
Well, all in all, i like the thing. It's my first try at this, although i've done dozens of toner transfers to copper pcb's. I cannot be perfect at first try, probably neither you guys but is a good DIY afternoon fun.
I would also like to thank the xda community for giving me such a good times with my hd2's along with my other htc phones in the past. XDA has become such a successful community because of it's dedicated developers and users. I'm proud to wear the xda letters next to my phone.
PS: i promise i will also add a website link in the next version, if i get a new and more powerful iron, i was afraid this one won't be hot enough to heat the thing properly and transfer smaller text or details
amazing stuff dude!!!
i had lots of fun reading it and seeing the progress along the way and you've explained all the steps really well...the result speaks for itself!
++respect!
you my friend always surprise me, first with thermal solution and than THIS awesome " discovery ", thanks again .
Just like the user above said!
+respect Sir Facdemol!
awweeeeeeeeeeeeesome!!!!!
awesome....but tedious !
Its pretty cool but alot of work
Sent from the land were pigs fly
fantastic. really nicely done!
Love the mod.
thanks for the feedback
the mod took me about 3-4 hours to make. More complex designs are possible, ore similar designs on a mirror like finish. If the HD2 had an aluminum case.. hahah, that would have been fun...
I would vote for you for King of the HD2 hardware!
Very well done. I very well may have to try this. My battery cover is starting to look very bad.
OMG this is amazing! I may need to buy a metal backing for my phone just so I can do this.
this really looks sooo amazing. gread work!
That's bloody impressive! Might have to do this to my HD2
Damn that's awesome
Sent from my Nexus S 4G using XDA Premium App
Holy crabcakes. That's rad
. . NS4G . . MIUI . .
Is it for sale? (jk)
Really really nice, I like it!
+1 on everything was said!
Amazing. Well done!
Awesome!
Very very cool!
WOW! "applause"
Had two damaged screen's bought replacement on eBay and both were perfect but the tools that come with them are cheap crap so don't rely on them especially the scraping tool
You need a tri wing screw driver and most importantly that saw on no forums or videos a heat gun. Bought mine for 14 and did the job perfectly as long as it goes to 500c or 1030f you should be fine.
Remove sd and sim card first
STEP ONE
Remove the screw covers on either side of the speakers, compass or paper clip will do the job, them with tri wing unscrew the two screws an put in box, careful they are tricky little feckers and you could be searching on the ground for awihle.
Step two
With the cheap crap tool that they supply a few use them All after they break to remove the seal around the edge of the screen and the case, start at v the bottom and careful of the volume rocker buttons.
Then keep on going around till there is give on all sides, then reverse the tool and pry then casing away. After a few moments of fiddling get small flat head or small spatula to pry more. Then it should lift of with help.
STEP THREE
There is seven screws and six clips to remove and the videos on you tube are excellent help here and removing battery and mother board which is all nice and easy.
But the hard bit is taking the screen off, don't even bother attempting this with out a heat gun that doesn't come close to temp above, no point this glue is brilliant.
With the gun you move around the edges for good few moments two maybe three mins then with spatula gently stick between the black glue v screen and the grey casing, you have to be careful as this gets hot after the gun and you don't want to push the spatula to much cause you could damage the digitizer.
After wrestling for another few mins it comes of. First one I did was real messy, but the second just used heat gun for another twenty thirty seconds in stubborn areas then it was fine.
Once the screen was removed make sure the glue tape is removed from the casing and let it cool down for few mins then apply the new one, I positioned it between my thumbs and bottom of the screen both times and had no issue's.
Then reverse the process and have brand new device
Sent from my LT26i using XDA
So, I took the plunge after watching several videos on "how to apply a tempered glass screen protector using Loca glue", and tried it myself. I have about 7 small bubbles, but I think I can live with them?? (we'll find out).
I only used about 1.5cc, but that was way too much and it oozed out. I thought I wiped it off of everything before I cured it (with a UV light).....Shortly afterwards, I received a call and couldn't hear anything out of my earpiece? I figured I got glue down in it, so I used alcohol, a toothpick, a Q-tip and a can of air... I eventually got the sound louder, but it's still muffled and distorted. I even tried a sewing needle and poked it in all the holes, but it's too big to go in the fine holes (I pushed too hard on one, and now have a bigger hole in the earpiece - may have just killed my water protection?).
Is there anything else I can do? I'm literally sick to my stomach now.......I've only had this phone 5 weeks and already messed it up
Hopefully someone had some advice on how to fix it/get the glue out of the earpiece?
UPDATE:
Fixed, the best I can do.....
I work in a medical office, with medical supplies. I took a very small needle and poked it through every hole in the grill and it now seems about 99% better. It still doesn't sound as good as before, but that could also be a placebo effect too (because I'm upset with myself)?
I did find out the grill is a very soft metal (aluminium?)... I noticed that I dented/deformed the grill slightly, last night, while trying to clean it (as well as poked a hole in it/busted out two holes into one hole).
As stated above, I'm not sure now how water proof my phone is now??
Oh well, I know now:
1) To put tape over the speaker grill next time (maybe the buttons too?).
2) Use a smaller amount of Loca glue
3) Put the glue on as a fat strip, right in the center, instead of a 4 thinner strips that crossed over each other a few times (this is why I have bubbles)
4) Buy a better screen protector, this one isn't full coverage.
Having the same problem. What gauge needle did you use? Any chance you could look at the packaging at work and let us know?
CWayne121 said:
Having the same problem. What gauge needle did you use? Any chance you could look at the packaging at work and let us know?
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Click to collapse
Well.... I actually used the taper needle on the end of a disposable 5/0 suture. The pointed tip was sharp enough to go in the hole, but the shaft was too wide to go any further.
I was using a 29g (insulin syringe) needle at first, and that worked as well, but I bent it too many times and switched to the more sturdy suture needle.
I was also experienced the same issue, while applying the uv screen protector from a localised store, I'm telling them that please ensure may earpiece will damage, they told nothing will happen, after completion of installation process, uv light also used, before leaving out I thought I would like to call, unfortunately my earpiece not working, I mean very less sound.i thought I would have go to OnePlus service center for repairing. however after I went back to home, I just applied some alcohol based sanitizer, and I thoroughly used hard toothbrush and clean it, with in 10 minutes of duration, everything got cleaned. Now it it is working properly .