I've looked around a bit and found out that it is possible to unbrick the Atrix with JTAG.
I' found this quote on another forum.
As a last resort you can shoot a PM to this guy on xda-developers - Profile: connexion2005
He says he has a JTAG setup to recover hard bricked devices. Worth at least contacting him and inquiring about it!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you look on his profile you find this:
The ORIGINAL (Hard Brick / JTAG Repair EXPERT)
I CAN RECOVER HARD BRICKED PHONES. PM me for any questions about JTAG...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So, how is he doing it? And why no one else but he can do it? Why everyone is talking only about nvflash and the SBK problem if there is another possible opportunity to unbrick the Atrix?
While its a breakthrough if he really is unbricking the phones, JTAGing in general requires breaking out a soldering iron and some extra equipment. Its not something the average person can do.
Jotokun said:
While its a breakthrough if he really is unbricking the phones, JTAGing in general requires breaking out a soldering iron and some extra equipment. Its not something the average person can do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MICRO-DONGL...876421?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item3cb9f4f5c5
11$, Not bad...
Alaq said:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MICRO-DONGL...876421?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item3cb9f4f5c5
11$, Not bad...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
that is very different from the JTAG being talked about here.
Here, JTAG involves creating an interface that allows you to directly flash the memory. Usually a custom cable must be made and connected to testpoints on the PCB.
mandrsn1 said:
that is very different from the JTAG being talked about here.
Here, JTAG involves creating an interface that allows you to directly flash the memory. Usually a custom cable must be made and connected to testpoints on the PCB.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think my friend attempted that... He made a factory cable by shortning a couple pins, then we found out that it's impossible to flash... To flash it again you must have a SBK not SBF... Nvidia won't give out their SBK, yet... I don't know whats a PCB though...
Alaq said:
I think my friend attempted that... He made a factory cable by shortning a couple pins, then we found out that it's impossible to flash... To flash it again you must have a SBK not SBF... Nvidia won't give out their SBK, yet... I don't know whats a PCB though...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
PCB is the motherboard inside the phone.
Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk
Printed Circuit Board =PCB
Alaq said:
I think my friend attempted that... He made a factory cable by shortning a couple pins, then we found out that it's impossible to flash... To flash it again you must have a SBK not SBF... Nvidia won't give out their SBK, yet... I don't know whats a PCB though...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sent from my MB860 using XDA App
Alaq said:
I think my friend attempted that... He made a factory cable by shortning a couple pins, then we found out that it's impossible to flash... To flash it again you must have a SBK not SBF... Nvidia won't give out their SBK, yet... I don't know whats a PCB though...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here is a picture of a JTAG interface to a PCB. Note how there are 4 wires soldered to the circuit board. (note: this isn't an Atrix, just an example JTAG)
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Found a thread on this on another site, the only useful post was by connexion2005 and states
This will be a difficult model as it uses the Tegra 2 CPU. Plus, the JTAG pins are underneath an EMI shield that is not removable unless a hot air station is used to do so. It will not be an easy repair...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm guessing the above picture is a Broadcom based router, and soldering space is much more generous compared to what I'm seeing on the teardown photos for the Atrix. Still though, I wonder if there is an ISP header lurking somewhere in there that may be a bit more accessible.
The main issue is still the lack of ANY supported Tegra 2 models on current equipment. A few boxes offer Tegra 2 support but with no devices listed yet, I can't obtain valuable probing and voltage documentation that I will need to proceed on the Atrix. I was hoping SOMEONE in the industry other than me would have produced this by now. It just goes to show how hard this model is. I've produced support for about 20 other phones and tablets since beginning the Atrix project. I average no more than 10 hours on a PCB before I'm able to map unknown pinouts and communicate with the onboard core and NAND chip. I've got over 50 hours in on the Atrix and I'm only slightly further along now then when I started. All of this is due to a lack of ANY info though. If I just had schematics telling me which set of pinouts were the JTAG pins along with individual pin labeling, this solution would be live within a week most likely. I do have plans to remove the Tegra 2 CPU from the board in hopes of directly tracing pinouts to external locations that way as some Tegra 2 CPU pinouts are available.
IF YOU HAVE ANY OF THIS INFO, YOU WOULD BE SAVING 1000'S OF PHONES BY MAKING IT AVAILABLE AND PAVING A BRIGHT FUTURE FOR TEGRA 2 JTAG IN THE FUTURE AS IT'S BECOMING QUITE POPULAR IN CURRENT HANDSETS AND TABLETS. FEEL FREE TO PM ME IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO REMAIN ANONYMOUS.
Help me please
My Atrix have a brick
can you help me ?
Please i'm a disaster ...
connexion2005 said:
The main issue is still the lack of ANY supported Tegra 2 models on current equipment. A few boxes offer Tegra 2 support but with no devices listed yet, I can't obtain valuable probing and voltage documentation that I will need to proceed on the Atrix. I was hoping SOMEONE in the industry other than me would have produced this by now. It just goes to show how hard this model is. I've produced support for about 20 other phones and tablets since beginning the Atrix project. I average no more than 10 hours on a PCB before I'm able to map unknown pinouts and communicate with the onboard core and NAND chip. I've got over 50 hours in on the Atrix and I'm only slightly further along now then when I started. All of this is due to a lack of ANY info though. If I just had schematics telling me which set of pinouts were the JTAG pins along with individual pin labeling, this solution would be live within a week most likely. I do have plans to remove the Tegra 2 CPU from the board in hopes of directly tracing pinouts to external locations that way as some Tegra 2 CPU pinouts are available.
IF YOU HAVE ANY OF THIS INFO, YOU WOULD BE SAVING 1000'S OF PHONES BY MAKING IT AVAILABLE AND PAVING A BRIGHT FUTURE FOR TEGRA 2 JTAG IN THE FUTURE AS IT'S BECOMING QUITE POPULAR IN CURRENT HANDSETS AND TABLETS. FEEL FREE TO PM ME IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO REMAIN ANONYMOUS.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sheva850 said:
My Atrix have a brick
can you help me ?
Please i'm a disaster ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you able to get into RSD or fastboot mode?
if you can, all is not lost yet
i have ort-jtag and have fixed lots of devices and contributed a few. i believe tegra2 is supported so i would just need a donor board to start testing. i live in dom. rep.
el_venga said:
i have ort-jtag and have fixed lots of devices and contributed a few. i believe tegra2 is supported so i would just need a donor board to start testing. i live in dom. rep.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hope you done quickly~~~
Help help help, Atrix is Hard Brick
So I found out the best way to un-brick a phone... it's simple as building a Dev Cable. I have tested this three times already on my Moto Atrix and every time I have been able to reload the firmware with RSD.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1050624
So in a nutshell the best way to do it is to tear apart a micro USB cable. I had to go through four to make one working one, since my soldering skills suck, and run a wire from the 1 pin (which is the 5V) to the 4 pin (which has nothing connected to it), by doing this you're adding 5V to the 4 pin and VIOLA! the phone is able to be powered during a soft brick.... (my bad, I said hard before, didn't realize my mistake till now).
Micro USB pin layout here:
http://www.kineteka.com/microusb-b.aspx
Here's a little more in depth post on it:
http://www.droidforums.net/forum/droid-labs/146492-how-why-make-your-own-motorola-factory-cable.html
I'll see about having a post on how to make a factory cable here up this weekend, I have to take snapshots on my next cable build.
Maybe those with a bricked phone can try this and tell us your results.
Hold on, what kind of bricks are you solving this way?
akizakian said:
Hold on, what kind of bricks are you solving this way?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well right now it works on a soft brick, I'll be trying it on which I believe is a hard brick...:
Code:
0x1000
Entering NVFlash recovery mode
Battery is too low to flash
I'll test it a few times to see if its working correctly.
Climber Ty said:
Well right now it works on a soft brick, I'll be trying it on which I believe is a hard brick...:
Code:
0x1000
Entering NVFlash recovery mode
Battery is too low to flash
I'll test it a few times to see if its working correctly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Eh, unfortunately the only difference will be the absence of "Battery is too low to flash" string
Related
so after doing weeks of research i found out the unit being used in the Acer a501 which is the 3G model. If you see a teardown you will see there is a port to plug it into a mini pci inside. The unit is GTM661/669 Mini PCIE look on alibaba or google it.
i can order a bunch of them but would like to find help for the software side.
GTM661/669 Mini PCIE should be supported by a500 but i'm not sure. i Know this is the unit they also use in the xoom 3G.
any help or insight is appreciated
anyone have any idea where i can begin
the difference between 501 and 500 unit are not just a missing GTM661/669 Mini PCIE card inside, there is no SLOT (not soldered) to insert such card, and there is not slot (not soldered) to put the sim card.
there is a pcie slot
sanaell said:
the difference between 501 and 500 unit are not just a missing GTM661/669 Mini PCIE card inside, there is no SLOT (not soldered) to insert such card, and there is not slot (not soldered) to put the sim card.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks for your input but there is indeed a pcie slot in the middle of the unit, if you look at any of the teardowns you will see it right in the middle. Some even have a placeholder PCIe card in there.
ok so i've done more research and this is what i have so far, i know the a500 and a501 are the exact same unit minus 3G card. I know firmware are the same, and i know that the a500 has a pci-e port for the GTM661 3G card.
i know the a500 has a set of 3G card drivers, i know all the setup on the a500 is there such as network search and such. I just need someone to figure out how the drivers will work and if they are there already. I'm a hardware guy not that fluent in android yet
I'd like to know how you "know" the things you say you "know".
Plus, can you post any pictures that state specifically what you say you know?
Would also be interested in that. However, as I am not such a hardware guy I would be happy to see a step-by-step tutorial of how to do it.
as i mentioned in my first post, if you bother to even kindly read it, it clearly says to look up on google for acer a500 teardown. I can not post links because i am new, it wont' let me, also i know because i own one and i have it open on my lap right now. please be constructive i don't really need pessimists commenting on this. thanks
it's fairly straight forward, the antenna is already in there it just needs the card and the simholder card all being sold by Embedded Works Corporation. It'll cost around $150 for a full 3G/4G setup
I can only find 1 teardown and I don't see what you see. To me, it's clearly devoid of any 3G capable hardware or slots or PCB chips.
But if you do it, kindly post the results.
You are an hardware guy maybe, but... what the hell you want exactly?
ordering a bunch of card for sell them... 150$??? are you nuts, the A501 will not cost +150$ over the A500 (actually it does not cost more than 100$ over but that is information)
so if I summarize
*** We need to buy a 3G module
*** We need to tear down our tablet
*** We need to solder (if we got the skills)
*** We not insure that works
*** We will waste time... humm nonsense.. insanity.
Now REAL information, with picture.
First stop google... it's not an exact science...
THERE IS NO 3G Antenna on the A500. the following schematics will prove it.
THERE IS NOTHING RELATED TO 3G inside the A500
sure the form factor is the same, but it's like a "common" shape then depends the elements you include makes the things, more ram, more sdcard space etc... CPU... well
THERE IS NO SLOT FOR PCIE INSIDE THE A500 (JMIN2 3G connector is not soldered)
YOU NEED TO SOLDER A SIMCARD SLOT (JP2 SIM connector is not soldered)
YOU KNOW NOTHING
by the way I do have the schematic of the A50x series... so I think I do know better.
A501
1 LOWER CASE INCL. CAMERA GLASS FOR 3G 60.H6002.001
2 USB SUPPORT PLATE 33.H6002.002
3 USB BOARD 55.H6002.002
4 BATTERY BT.00207.001
5 MAINBOARD MB.70500.041
6 ANTENNA 3G-AUX 50.H6002.007
7 ANTENNA WLAN 50.H6002.005
8 DC-IN CABLE 50.H6002.001
9 LCD SUPPORT PLATE FOR 3G 33.H6M02.001
10 LCD BEZEL N/A
11 TOUCH PANEL CABLE 50.H6002.004
12 LCD Panel w/CONTROL BOARD 6M.H6002.001
13 LVDS CABLE 50.H6002.009
14 CAMERA 2M 57.H6002.001
15 ANTENNA GPS 50.H6002.008
16 MIC SET 23.H6002.001
17 ANTENNA 3G-MAIN 50.H6002.006
18 SPEAKER L+R 23.H6002.002
19 ERICSSON F5521GW LC.21300.056
20 DOCKING BOARD 55.H6002.001
21 DOCKING BOARD FFC 50.H6002.002
22 USB BOARD FFC 50.H6002.003
23 CAMERA HOLDER FOR 5M CAMERA 42.H6002.001
24 CAMERA 5M 57.H6002.002
25 CAMERA GLASS FOR 5M CAMERA 60.H6002.002
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A500
1 LOWER CASE INCL. CAMERA GLASS FOR 3G 60.H6002.001
2 USB SUPPORT PLATE 33.H6002.002
3 USB BOARD 55.H6002.002
4 BATTERY BT.00207.001
5 MAINBOARD MB.70500.041
6 ANTENNA WLAN 50.H6002.005
7 DC-IN CABLE 50.H6002.001
8 LCD SUPPORT PLATE FOR W/O 3G 33.H6002.001
9 LCD BEZEL N/A
10 TOUCH PANEL CABLE 50.H6002.004
11 LCD PANEL w/CONTROL BOARD 6M.H6002.001
12 LVDS CABLE 50.H6002.009
13 CAMERA 2M 57.H6002.001
14 ANTENNA GPS 50.H6002.008
15 MIC SET 23.H6002.001
16 SPEAKER L+R 23.H6002.002
17 DOCKING BOARD 55.H6002.001
18 DOCKING BOARD FFC 50.H6002.002
19 USB BOARD FFC 50.H6002.003
20 CAMERA HOLDER FOR 5M CAMERA 42.H6002.001
21 CAMERA 5M 57.H6002.002
22 CAMERA GLASS FOR 5M CAMERA 60.H6002.002
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
don't you see a difference ?
there the 3G module and Antenna
ERICSSON F5521GW LC.21300.056
3G CARD Huawei EM770W-Rev2 LC.21300.066
HUAWEI EM820W LC.21300.068
ANTENNA 3G-MAIN 50.H6002.006
ANTENNA 3G-AUX 50.H6002.007
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
and MotherBoard are
Mainboard A501_16s Nvidia Tegra 250, W/3G&CPU&RAM MB.70500.041
Mainboard A501_32s Nvidia Tegra 250, W/3G&CPU&RAM MB.70500.042
Mainboard A500_16s Nvidia Tegra 250, W/O 3G W/CPU&RAM MB.H6000.001
Mainboard A500_32s Nvidia Tegra 250, W/O 3G W/CPU&RAM MB.H6L00.001
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here some picture of the A501 with 3G Module and antenna
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=15327043&postcount=1
then
go on kid install on your A500 the 3G but please.... send all picture from start teardown until 3G working well (with timestamp and money spend)
PICTURE FROM A500
Where is the slot ?????
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Understood ???
Jesus! Sanaell! Do you need to be so aggressive???
Whats wrong with someone THINKING abit or being enthusiastic about something?
Oh sure just hammer him down with NO NO NO NO NO thats how humanity evolves quicker with naysayers like you? Go home and take a bubble bath and take a nap.
Christ!
Johnny0906 said:
Jesus! Sanaell! Do you need to be so aggressive???
Whats wrong with someone THINKING abit or being enthusiastic about something?
Oh sure just hammer him down with NO NO NO NO NO thats how humanity evolves quicker with naysayers like you? Go home and take a bubble bath and take a nap.
Christ!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1
You both sound like you know more than me but a little latitude and a pinch of diplomacy wouldn't go amiss. Put downs like this just put people off contributing and no more contributions = no development.
I thought it was pretty clear that the OP wasn't going to take any questioning or disagreeing without throwing up his fists in offence. read #6 - it says it all about his attitude.
Clearly the OP didn't know what he was talking about even though he claimed time and time again that he "knows" things while sanaell up and provided proof that contradicts what the OP was chastising everyone else about not believing.
I think sanaell did it just right for yet another user who refuses to read what others have said time and time again, doesn't care to back up their claim in any way and who's basically just talking out their ass for whatever reason.
Sure it is irritating to see the same topics being put up on and on and on different threads but there is only 1 moderator.
And SINCE there have been so many threads why doesnt Sanaell just say so? Instead of going on and on on a topic he hates? Doesnt make sense.
Well thanks for the input
i got it working natively, all that were too stupid to open the damn thing and see what's in front of them and instead blow off their steam on people trying to do a good thing well your SOL. i'm closing this thread and leaving this ridiculous site, this is worst then a hanging i tell you, you people should be kicked out of here as well, and to the people who where helping and put very positive comments thanks you very much for you help, advice and questions. Keep on researching. The hardware is the exact same between the two and all you have to do is insert the 2 cards. Native support is given already in the firmware.
mnaderi said:
i got it working natively
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
*cough* bull**** *cough* without pics *sputter* *cough*
Like I said before, if you do it, post the results otherwise you're just talking out your ass.
guess what genius, no soldering needed, it's a pcie slot under the unit, i already got it working so guess what your wrong senior member. it's amazing how your have lasted so long being so rude to people. Do you really thing that a large manufacturer like acer would make 2 different models. well thanks for your input if i can call it that.
sad sad people
gammaRascal said:
*cough* bull**** *cough* without pics *sputter* *cough*
Like I said before, if you do it, post the results otherwise you're just talking out your ass.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
what are you talking about , i already showed you there is a pcie, the card, and the simholder, you want me to put it together for you at your house to believe me, like i give a **** what you think you ignorant asshole, just because you can't read or understand what a pcie slot is it's my problems. http://www.androidtablets.net/forum...77-whats-under-hood-acer-iconia-tab-a500.html
you know what i just don't care what you people do, i just wish i could close this thread down so i get no more HELP form the senior members. Great help thanks, you should be given a medal.
mnaderi said:
i already got it working so guess what your wrong senior member.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know why you keep ignoring the fact that you haven't posted proof. Either you're lying or you're missing what I've said twice.
If you get it working, post the results.
gammaRascal said:
I don't know why you keep ignoring the fact that you haven't posted proof. Either you're lying or you're missing what I've said twice.
If you get it working, post the results.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i will when i get the 3G setting fully enabled, as i posted originally the internal units will not bring up the 3G setting automatically like the USB models, also since the original simholder is impossible to find you use the aftermarket unit from that exact site. Now for just one minute look at it form my side, what have you and the other senior member put in to call it help. You want to see proof fine i will show you all the picture when i take them but until someone here grows up and starts solving the problems with the software as i mentioned originally i don't see why i would give a damn to help others when i already put so much into this.
also calling people fake or saying it's bs because you don't know much or understand things about the unit is not help. On every other thread people help to solve a single problem on this one thread everyone is trying to ****ing grill me to prove the have a bigger ****, well you don't. If it's bs how did i know the model number of the 3G unit, the pcie slot, the simcard holder that is needed, the fact that 3G setting will not automatically come up with the PCIe models. at the end of the day i have a 3G model and it has some ups and downs what you have is a lynching mob!!! again thanks for your input
mnaderi said:
i will when i get the 3G setting fully enabled, as i posted originally the internal units will not bring up the 3G setting automatically like the USB models, also since the original simholder is impossible to find you use the aftermarket unit from that exact site. Now for just one minute look at it form my side, what have you and the other senior member put in to call it help. You want to see proof fine i will show you all the picture when i take them but until someone here grows up and starts solving the problems with the software as i mentioned originally i don't see why i would give a damn to help others when i already put so much into this.
also calling people fake or saying it's bs because you don't know much or understand things about the unit is not help. On every other thread people help to solve a single problem on this one thread everyone is trying to ****ing grill me to prove the have a bigger ****, well you don't. If it's bs how did i know the model number of the 3G unit, the pcie slot, the simcard holder that is needed, the fact that 3G setting will not automatically come up with the PCIe models. at the end of the day i have a 3G model and it has some ups and downs what you have is a lynching mob!!! again thanks for your input
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're just being argumentative. It's okay to be wrong - that's how we learn.
Until you can provide some proof (even a picture of the internal setup you'd done) then really, why argue? We're just asking you to post some pictures = we all know that's not hard to do.
If you don't have it working internally, that's fine. We can understand that will take some time - but at the very least, lets see some shots of the card in place - at least that alone would sate the naysayers. Myself included. Then we could wait patiently while you work on the software side of things - heck, you might even get some love from some devs if your attitude changes and you get a little more proactive.
If I'm understanding this all, the OP claims to have installed a 3G device that is not identical to the unit fitted to the A501 and hence the software does not work with it?
So if he provided a guide on how he managed to do this, it would enable other people to do the same and then facilitate the development of the kernel and/or software in the ROM's to be able to utilise this 3rd party hardware.
Of course if the cost of the parts and risk of fitting was too high, then most people wouldn't bother and simply purchase the A501 in the first place. If it cost under $50USD you'd probably have quite a few people interested.
So, browsing today, i found this: You know the phoneblox concept that everyone been talking about how it will never happen? well Motorola just announced an "open modular" Phone design scheme thing. Motorola say "WE WANT TO DO FOR HARDWARE WHAT THE ANDROID PLATFORM HAS DONE FOR SOFTWARE." (sorry about caps) Heres a link, if you want to read more: http://www.theverge.com/2013/10/29/5041336/motorola-project-ara-modular-smartphones
And also, from the blog:http://motorola-blog.blogspot.jp/2013/10/goodbye-sticky-hello-ara.html
Its called "Project Ara".
Pics bellow.
Discuss.
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http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-p3yNXgVr6Ds/Um80F-C2GfI/AAAAAAAAEiI/HzgWlnOSByE/s1600/ara2blogpost.png
Although I appreciate tech news as much as the next guy, I don't see how you can throw in XP2 into the title. This article is merely a pseudo update of a story from earlier in the year in regards to how PC's you can build and change out parts and as such, now Motorola, is looking into the concept of a smartphone that you can build and change its components. But I dont' the concept includes a gamepad and touchpad. Even if it did Devs would still have to support it, no support then its useless.
Again, not trying to sound like an a$$ and belittle your discovery, I am actually quite glad to see a compny actually looking into it as its a nice concept. But I fail to see how or why this could be the Xperia PLAY 2.
I think people need to realize, its been 2.5 years since this phone was released, I view our phone as along the lines as the HTC EVO 3D. A one time 'test project" to see if it would be successful enough. Clearly just as HTC is not interested in making an EVO 3D 2, Sony is not interested in making a XP2.
Woah
ozzmanj1 said:
Although I appreciate tech news as much as the next guy, I don't see how you can throw in XP2 into the title. This article is merely a pseudo update of a story from earlier in the year in regards to how PC's you can build and change out parts and as such, now Motorola, is looking into the concept of a smartphone that you can build and change its components. But I dont' the concept includes a gamepad and touchpad. Even if it did Devs would still have to support it, no support then its useless.
Again, not trying to sound like an a$$ and belittle your discovery, I am actually quite glad to see a compny actually looking into it as its a nice concept. But I fail to see how or why this could be the Xperia PLAY 2.
I think people need to realize, its been 2.5 years since this phone was released, I view our phone as along the lines as the HTC EVO 3D. A one time 'test project" to see if it would be successful enough. Clearly just as HTC is not interested in making an EVO 3D 2, Sony is not interested in making a XP2.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well... I just thought of it as an opportunity, not to step on anyone's toes. The reason I decided to include xp2, was due to Motorola stating:"The modules "can be anything," says Motorola, giving examples ranging from a new keyboard or battery to more unusual components such as a pulse oximeter.". Im sorry Ill remove it if it makes you happy, but i just thought...
Also, Hers A video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BaPf4ZIbDVM#t=125
I think the post is fine how it is. It isn't technically an xperia play 2, but maybe in time they could make gaming parts to make a gaming phone. That in a way could be an xperia play alternative.
Sent from my MUCH i5 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
insane5125 said:
I think the post is fine how it is. It isn't technically an xperia play 2, but maybe in time they could make gaming parts to make a gaming phone. That in a way could be an xperia play alternative.
Sent from my MUCH i5 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you. My point exactly
Overall nice find. I love the idea behind phone bloks and I'm happy companies are looking into it.
Sent from my MUCH i5 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
insane5125 said:
Overall nice find. I love the idea behind phone bloks and I'm happy companies are looking into it.
Sent from my MUCH i5 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Would you consider buying one? I hear some people think it might not work due to parts being to expensive, and people "not having enough time" to customise their phones. I would definitely buy it
from the God of gaming, the Xperia Play
mocool05 said:
Would you consider buying one? I hear some people think it might not work due to parts being to expensive, and people "not having enough time" to customise their phones. I would definitely buy it
from the God of gaming, the Xperia Play
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The thing about me is that I'm a very cautious buyer. When I buy something I make sure it does what I what the way I expect it too. So like when the PS4 & Xbox One was announced I didn't preorder it because I want to make sure there is no bugs or hardware issues. This will be the same.
Overall though yes I would consider buying one. If both phone blok and Project Ara come out I would see myself going for phone blok just because when you look at Project Ara the receivers on the back seem a little restrictive, when on phone bloks you can get difrent size parts and place them anywhere (if I want a camera on the bottom back of my phone I can do that)
PS: Have you checked out my post about the IReadyGO Much I5? If you haven't go check it out its also a Xperia Play alternative. http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2404623
insane5125 said:
The thing about me is that I'm a very cautious buyer. When I buy something I make sure it does what I what the way I expect it too. So like when the PS4 & Xbox One was announced I didn't preorder it because I want to make sure there is no bugs or hardware issues. This will be the same.
Overall though yes I would consider buying one. If both phone blok and Project Ara come out I would see myself going for phone blok just because when you look at Project Ara the receivers on the back seem a little restrictive, when on phone bloks you can get difrent size parts and place them anywhere (if I want a camera on the bottom back of my phone I can do that)
PS: Have you checked out my post about the IReadyGO Much I5? If you haven't go check it out its also a Xperia Play alternative. http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2404623
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You do know their becoming one?
Yeah I noticed that after I posted it my bad. But the point still stands. customization is key to the success of this idea I feel.
Sent from my HTC One X using xda premium
insane5125 said:
Yeah I noticed that after I posted it my bad. But the point still stands. customization is key to the success of this idea I feel.
Sent from my HTC One X using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
True
Nice to hear that
It's a great innovation
---------- Post added at 04:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:51 PM ----------
Nice to hear that
It's a great innovation
Modular connection style, no need for modular pieces
Idea: Instead of putting modular pieces onto a fixed exoskeleton(which we still have to buy from motorola), they should develop modular connectivity, something like the connectors of a USB port, but each square "piece" having two in and two out ports on the sides, that way every module can connect to every module without the need for a base station.
Something along the lines of a jigsaw puzzle, without the need for a board.
Of course I'll admit, this will be much harder on the software side of things.
I hope a lot companies will participate like carl zeiss, nikon, canon, samsung for LENS, Wolfson, Yamaha, Roland for AUDIO, for SOCs/Mainboard Intel, TI, (Nvidia and AMD i guess?) Sony, Samsung, LG for DISPLAY, Sandisk, Kingston, Samsung, and Sony for STORAGE. I may not express stuff realistically (i am a noob). Just my idea. Like we chose our own hardware/setup and there are a lots of choices and everything.:good:
marcusljx said:
Idea: Instead of putting modular pieces onto a fixed exoskeleton(which we still have to buy from motorola), they should develop modular connectivity, something like the connectors of a USB port, but each square "piece" having two in and two out ports on the sides, that way every module can connect to every module without the need for a base station.
Something along the lines of a jigsaw puzzle, without the need for a board.
Of course I'll admit, this will be much harder on the software side of things.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They use pins. also, wouldn't it be really fragile?
rad io said:
I hope a lot companies will participate like carl zeiss, nikon, canon, samsung for LENS, Wolfson, Yamaha, Roland for AUDIO, for SOCs/Mainboard Intel, TI, (Nvidia and AMD i guess?) Sony, Samsung, LG for DISPLAY, Sandisk, Kingston, Samsung, and Sony for STORAGE. I may not express stuff realistically (i am a noob). Just my idea. Like we chose our own hardware/setup and there are a lots of choices and everything.:good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, that was the initial plan... Anything close would be good too
In a few years that should not only be an utopic dream; I want it to be reality! Every personal computer is a modular system consisting of different and separate components like ram, cpu, gpu and much more.
So why no modular phone?
The main difficulty is the small form factor and the fact that smartphones are products with a really short lifetime. Moreover it's easier to get a whole new smartphone than buying some components to builing his personal one.
On the other side there is a wide range of new possibilities with such a project and there are a lot of people that want to use some "special" phones. Me too!
So I hope and I think, in a few years there will come first modular phones to the consumer. But maybe they will be very expensive and with less possibilities than there theoretically could be realized. Let's hope the best!
I would definatley buy one because look so funky and awesome. and you can start off small and slowly upgrade without having to get an entirely new phone
Set Standards.
I still believe once the ground rules are down and maybe 4 or 5 boards are made available (price ranging from standard to dev standards) this will work.
Each chip must use X connector, allow a max of Y volts, amps etc.
And have on demand firmware/driver loading. Hopefully with the last option, you can hotswap certain parts without switching the device off.
marcusljx said:
Idea: Instead of putting modular pieces onto a fixed exoskeleton(which we still have to buy from motorola), they should develop modular connectivity, something like the connectors of a USB port, but each square "piece" having two in and two out ports on the sides, that way every module can connect to every module without the need for a base station.
Something along the lines of a jigsaw puzzle, without the need for a board.
Of course I'll admit, this will be much harder on the software side of things.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nawbit wouldn't really make it harder for software, serial controllers deal with addressing chained devices all the time, look at SCSI and midi.
Sent from my XT1053 using Tapatalk
Got this information from slatedroid by ebsbow, online.
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Voyo A1 with Intel Atom Quad-core:
- Intel Atom Z3735D [email protected](2core burstmode@1.8Ghz)
- Intel Atom Z3735f is the new cheaper slower version.
- Using the next-gen 22nm technology. More power less energy.
- Intel HD technology GPU(build around 4 EU and 700Mhz)
- 8" new technology 1280*800 IPS screen(approx. 194dpi)
- 2Gb Single channel DDR3L-RS
- 32Gb internal space(minus installation and restore space)
- SD card expansion slot for extra 32Gb~64Gb
- Windows 8.1(64bit) full version(not RT)
- Supporting virtualization, x86 apps, Metro apps...
- HDMI output(Max.FHD)
- Charging port 9v 2Amps.
- Micro usb OTG(also for 5v charging)
- BT 4.0, Wifi b-g-n
- Dual camera's: 2.0Mpx(Pipo w2/Livefan: 5Mpx). Minimal but handy.
- Accelerometer, Gyroscope.
- Plastic shell, sturdy and basic clean design.
- About the same weight and dimensions as a Nexus 7(first gen)
- Comes in various funky color:
Gray(metal), White, Green, Blue, Pink(dark), Yellow.. No black.
Originally based on the Emdoor-i8080(Z3735G China)
- i8180
- 8080-A
- 8080-C
Look a likes include:
2G 32G(64-bit single channel)
- Pipo W2(Z3735D China) xda
- Croma 1179(Z3735D India)
- QUMO Vega 8008W(Z3735F Russia?)
- LIVEFAN F8C(Z3735D China+64Gb version)
- sTouch W801(Z3735D China)
- SonQi w1088(Z3735D China)
- Jumper EZ pad(Z3735E China)
1G 16Gb(32-bit single channel)
- CUBE iwork U80GT(Z3735E or Z3735D+gps(..)) xda
- FNF Fine 8(Z3735E)
- Other...?
First look at the price point, then acknowledge it's an cool little 8" Windows 8.1 Intel Atom device.
Nice screen and battery life is great in normal use. The power drain of running full fletch PC games,
which are fare more complex then Android games, is much higher. Metro games are obviously more
suitable. They are efficient, smaller and modern. Nonetheless some older PC games run surprising well.
It is also possible to install Android(x86 64-bit) or an Linux distribution if you like. And because of its x86
nature and running an full fletch OS, all Windows applications will work fine. With a few exceptions like
running the latest Photoshop CC. This may prove not very productive or efficient on an 8" screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It has come to our attention that some sellers are dispatching fake D types to buyers.
Obviously we will not stand for this. If you are victim of this let us know(post or pm), we will post them here.
If you buy through paypal or aliexpress you are secured with buyers protection. Make use of it to complain.
-Banggood
-Amazon(lots of seller sell fake D)
-ebay(lots of seller sell fake D)
-Aliexpress(lots of seller sell fake D)
-efox
...
Bought an fake sdcard? Let s now what shop. Post or pm.
Check fakes sdcard(suggestion by ebsbow)
-Amazon(lots of seller sell fake 64gb)
-ebay(lots of seller sell fake 64gb)
Additional Slatedroid Voyo A1 forum
Problems:
<i>In case you are locked in an update loop, use this recovery walkthrough(courtesy of Downstar) <here>
And then there is some other info. (Also by ebsbow.)
For those who don't know yet, the differences between Z3735 models are designated with D - E - F or G.
All-in-all the following applies.
Spoiler
Type 4 SoC model D of the Z3735 series seems the best choice for more extended use. The other
versions are streamlined from there. Not just lower memory and functions but the price is very competitive.
They all run at the same core frequency of Quad-1.58Ghz to Dual-1.8Ghz. So the streamlining consists by
reducing the amount of internal hardware components.
Because of this the F version will have the same memory values as D but will effectively run a little bit slower
in real world applications then the latter(..)
For Internet, video, music, casual game, the E and G variants will more then suffice and will come with lower
thermal resistance. Battery life will be longer and the price lower.
D will perform all these task with 2Gb 32Gb (an a 64-bit Windows) a bit better for just an couple of buck more.
Posted pricing seems a bit weird on most Chinese sites, e.g. selling E and G's at the same price as a D.
They should be going for around a 115$ ~ 125$. D's should go for around a 135$ ~ 160$ or less.
Just be sure to look at that when making your choice.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So it is possible to install Android and Linux on this.
It should be running and 32-bit version of windows 8.1 in WIM configuration right now.
This seem an good place to start Link
Hey Buddy, just found your awesome post here.
I have the hardware drivers for those in need of them. <here>(82.1Mb)
There from the A1. Don't know if they are the same for the other models.
<i>Still waiting for the tablet, so I haven't tested any of these yet.
Sweet! Those will come in handy. Thanks, ebsbow!
i've been using this tablet for about a month now, it's a really good tablet for its price range, capable of running all kinds of daily apps that i need, a couple of nice games, and the battery life is amazing..
Guy's I am looking to get an 64Gb sd card for this. But it seems not all versions or types do work. It
does support SDXC/SDHC(obviously) 64Gb class 10.
With all those differences on sale it's troublesome to go out and buy one just randomly. Even if they are class brands.
If you could share your experiences on this that would be great. Model, type, brand etc..
Here you can read a review
http://www.retroandroid.com/review-tablet-windows-8-1-voyo-a1-mini/
Very good tablet.
Here you can see some videos:
The bang for the buck is great.
I've owned one of these for over a month now and I love it. I get a whole lot more use out of this than my ASUS TF300T.
I can't say enough good things about it, really. I've put it through it's paces and it hasn't let me down yet. I took the time to turn off eye candy where-ever possibly and applied all the usual gamer tweaks one should do to Windows and extended my battery life out a bit.
I've run Fallout 3 and Skyrim on it. Sure, it takes some concessions on video quality and some mods to reduce memory overhead, but the balance is acceptable and quite enjoyable to play. Not to mention the scads of GoG games that run well on here. Neverwinter Nights and Baldur's Gate play flawlessly.
I see people wanting to run Photoshop on it. I say, why not? While the latest and greatest Photoshop CS may be a bloated whore, Photoshop CS3 runs brilliantly here and gives access to most of the tools in the CS arsenal.
I've been able to run Linux Mint in a VM through VMPlayer, and thanks so some tips from the ASUS T100 guys have been able to at least boot Ubuntu to a terminal in native mode. So a native Linux install is certainly possible, but beyond my expertise at the moment. There is a version of this tablet that comes with Android preinstalled, but Bluestacks runs on it fine, and I've been able to launch some games using ARCHON-APK in Chrome, so I kind of have the best of both worlds there.
Hardware compatibility thusfar has been 100%. I have yet to encounter a peice of hardware that causes grief. My XBOX 360 wireless contoller and dongle work perfect, and the bluetooth is even compatible with Wiimotes, so gaming is easy. Even something as obscure as a Serial Port replicator that I have laying around for running Drivewire with my CoCo II was detected and worked without a hitch.
Like I said I've hit this thing with everything I have got and it hasn't let me down yet. I just hope someone gets a fully functional native Linux install working on it so I can use it as a portable development studio, too.
Any problems with charging?
[email protected] said:
i've been using this tablet for about a month now, it's a really good tablet for its price range, capable of running all kinds of daily apps that i need, a couple of nice games, and the battery life is amazing..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Ryan,
Do you have any problems using this device when charging? I have one, but when it is plugged in to the mains (NOT trickle charge through USB) the screen registers multiple touches for each single touch, making it unusable.
Thanks,
Jason.
@jcsammut -
I have the same issue, it appears to be bleed off from the charging circuit affecting the capacitance of the touch screen. It only seems to happen for me when the battery is fully charged. It may be the screen protector acting as a capacitor as well, not certain though. I usually will just unplug it and let it drain back down to 25% or so and plug it back in. It doesn't act that way when you charge via USB. I use a Bluetooth mouse 90% of the time so the touchscreen going berserk on a full charge isn't a game-breaker for me, personally.
themagi said:
@jcsammut -
I have the same issue, it appears to be bleed off from the charging circuit affecting the capacitance of the touch screen. It only seems to happen for me when the battery is fully charged. It may be the screen protector acting as a capacitor as well, not certain though. I usually will just unplug it and let it drain back down to 25% or so and plug it back in. It doesn't act that way when you charge via USB. I use a Bluetooth mouse 90% of the time so the touchscreen going berserk on a full charge isn't a game-breaker for me, personally.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Strange, it happens for me regardless of charge amount, but it is sometimes intermittent at any charge level - e.g. one second it does it and the next it doesn't.
I agree that it does not do it via USB but the trickle charge is not enough to sustain a charge under normal usage and the battery depletes.
I tend to use a mouse too, but is a bit of a pain when just wanting to use the touch screen. Oh well now I know it affects multiple devices I may stick with it.
Out of interest could it be a shielding issue of the adapter itself? Would a different model help perhaps.
Thanks.
jcsammut said:
Out of interest could it be a shielding issue of the adapter itself? Would a different model help perhaps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Certainly couldn't hurt to try especially if you have a compatible adapter that has a ground plug. I've never noticed if the plug on the stock adapter is polarized. It might make a difference if the polarity is switched.
I have the same thing around 80% when the battery is charging. Only horizontally.
I seem to remember reading something about an little adapter thingy to add to the charger tip.
Buggster said:
I have the same thing around 80% when the battery is charging. Only horizontally.
I seem to remember reading something about an little adapter thingy to add to the charger tip.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting, I just tried portrait but it still happens.
Any idea what the 'little adapter thingy' is?
I am trying to find an alternative power supply, but everyone seems to offer a 9v 2a adapter with a 2.5mm barrel, when this take a 2mm barrel.
Cheers!
No buddy, can't recall. I forgot reading about something regarding this kind of problem before I got the tablet.
Some adapter. 2mm in, something magical in between, 2mm out
I'll may look into it later today. Probably have an link to it somewhere..
edit;
you can also try an usb to 2mm cable on an prober usb adapter
Buggster said:
No buddy, can't recall. I forgot reading about something regarding this kind of problem before I got the tablet.
Some adapter. 2mm in, something magical in between, 2mm out
I'll may look into it later today. Probably have an link to it somewhere..
edit;
you can also try an usb to 2mm cable on an prober usb adapter
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cheers mate, I will try searching for that, as searching google for "2mm in, something magical in between, 2mm out" returned some very 'intersting' results .......magic gold rope anyone?.
Did some research and this touchscreen issue is definitely related to the ungrounded charger supplied by the manufacturer.
Apparently it's a common problem with newer touchscreens because of the push for thinness. It produces EMI interference that causes a "ripple" effect to cross the screen outward from the charging plug. This is why the extra touches always seem to be in-line with your finger. A way to avoid it "temporarily" is to touch the grounded edge of the USB port or other exposed metal surface while using the touchscreen. It puts you on the same ground plane as the device and "mutes" the "ripple" effect.
The cleaner the power from the Mains the less you'll notice this effect. So a quality surge filter will probably help at the plug end.
You could also try one of these.. Which should filter the noise out and "mute" the "ripple."
I think I have one of those barrel filters at my house. I'll try to find it and see if it works for me. Touching the USB port works for sure as I've tried it myself.
Magic gold rope, my basement visitor may appreciate that. Eew. Just kidding guy's!
What I have reckoned so far is that using 1.5a vs 2.0a charge would be beneficial to
lessen the interference when loading. So at this point I suspect using 'a' capacitor,
as already suggested, as the magic part. The extra benefit would be an longer cable!
It would slowdown the loading cycle, but don't see a problem there.
Anyone volunteering to make an schematic?
edit; good find thmagi. didn't see your post there.
Hi everyone!
A new watch has born. Very interesting, altought it has no camera. No water protection adviced, but it looks great!
<Mod Edit - Link Removed.>
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Does anyone have it?
To save Pablo11, Cyrux75, Maitrot, chiragjn and all those others that have contributed in this thread, the trouble of repeating the same instructions and to help new owners find solutions fast, i have made a compilation of the most useful posts in this thread. None of this is mine.
The thread starter could think of putting this in the op to save some trouble.
Dont use OTA if rooted! You have to go back to stock.
Android 101 : Read first
Pablo11 :
A general announcement to anyone thinking of modifying their watch.
Be careful !!
Please read everything about this process at least twice.
I have already had several private messages asking me to fix semi-bricked watches by posting them to me.
I have a family and a full time position at work and I cannot invest the time to fix peoples watches.
If instructions are followed carefully and the forum posts regarding MTK flash tools are read then there should be no problem.
As a rule - always;
a) full backup first including NVRAM for IMEI using MTK tools.
b) make sure all drivers for SP tools are installed correctly in case of disaster.
c) have the custom TWRP recovery installed on the watch - booting from SD recovery is no good if you can't boot the watch!!
d) make sure watch is fully charged before you do anything that may take some time.
e) copy the TWRP stock backup posted by me earlier in this thread to your SD card before you do anything significant - you can delete it after but remember this each time you do something that may prevent normal boot.
This way you can always boot into recovery without your pc and flash back to stock.
Lastly - take some comfort in the fact that it's actually very difficult to permanently brick this device. If you use the correct toolset you can revive the watch almost all the time !!
How to root :
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=64030626&postcount=408
How to backup rom with Spflash tool:
http://www.theandroidhow.com/2014/05/how-to-backup-restore-stock-rom-with-sp-flash.html
or
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2730031
and video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LzyYXAflmOk
Fix NVRAM Err = 0x10 And Random MAC Address :
http://www.gizbeat.com/2446/fix-nvram-err-0x10-and-random-mac-address/
or
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2620741
A full readback of Stock Rom, you need this! :
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=63919902&postcount=366
TWRP recovery :
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=63777091&postcount=229
How to get into recovery and a scatter file :
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=64179294&postcount=547
Launcher not responding :
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=64077769&postcount=459
HOW TO INSTALL MTK65XX PRELOADER USB VCOM DRIVERS IN WINDOWS:
http://thebroodle.com/microsoft/win...loader-usb-vcom-drivers-in-windows/#arvlbdata
Make the screen square to use some apps :
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=64321941&postcount=588
How to reach out of screen buttons?
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=65059230&postcount=1095
Make the screen less bright and save battery? Use Xposed module screen filter.
Add more actions to buttons? Use xposed additions or button remapper. Even more function with secure settings and tasker.
Bt connection problems ? Bt off/on , unpair, keep away from other bt devices when pairing.
Looking for apps that work well with this watch ? Have a look here :http://forum.xda-developers.com/smartwatch/other-smartwatches/apps-smartwatches-mt6572-zgpax-s8-k8-t3293748#post64817910
FAQ:
Does it have GPS ? YES, the antenna is inside the strap (the top strap). If you want better reception keep the strap on top, facing the sky, this means that when running you may want to wear the watch in reverse. Also try to put a plastic spacer between your hand and the strap where the GPS antenna resides, it will help reception, i use a rubber band.
Companion APP? Swapp link and notisync work but this is not an android wear watch! This is like your smartphone. If you have two smartphones you can connect them through swapp link and check it out. There difference with wear is that it is optimized to be a slave to your smartphone.
Round screen means some buttons on the edges will not be accessible, try making it square (see above how) and think of using tasker to make a long press of a button to trigger the change (root required).
Does runkeeper, mapmyfitness, wahoo, strava work ? YES
Is the heart rate sensor and good ? Not if you are serious about it. Use a bluetooth HRM (Scosche Rhytm+ or Mio). Also the embedded sensor does not communicate with any of the known sport apps.
Can i change straps ? Well, yes if you dont use any of the antennas that are in the straps! If you are handy you can take the antennas out of the straps (they should be microstrip antennas) and stick them on the new strap, though the reception may be affected as the substrate of the antenna plays an important role.
I emailed gearbest they dint have it and didn't tell me if it was available for preorder looks nice though
I saw it on alibaba and I have contacted the seller and he said that is a prototype watch that could be available starting from the beginning of november.
Hello everyone.
I am very interested in this model.
Someone can facilitate link alibaba?
I order a unit to gearbest.
They have already announced also in Igogo, everbuying.
In gearbest they have told me that still has not arrived.
who is the manufacturer?
I like this watch alot. I think there is a need for round watches with android 4.4 and google play store loaded on it.
My main question is who makes this watch or even the original k8? I have seen aiwatch, invtepy and some other names but arent they just oems?
Thanks!
it look awesome , but the price is a little high ?
webmarketingtraffic said:
I like this watch alot. I think there is a need for round watches with android 4.4 and google play store loaded on it.
My main question is who makes this watch or even the original k8? I have seen aiwatch, invtepy and some other names but arent they just oems?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is seems to be a "Zeaplus K18": http://www.gizchina.com/2015/09/25/zeaplus-k18-smartwatch/
I talked today with Gearbest and they said it will ready for shipment in few days
No news yet
https://youtu.be/lOGCL2I_tqw
Can't believe no-one has this watch yet!
It looks great but no hands on information anywhere?
I'm thinking about buying this device, I've just got in contact with Everbuying (the site I am purchasing from) and I will be sure to let you all know what the response is. If I end up buying this I will also do an unboxing and review on my YouTube channel at youtube.com/theepiclysnipes
I am also thinking of creating a custom ROM for this device as the devices design is really quite great, however I feel like the UI makes it look cheap :/
Let me know if you have any other info! Cheers!!
Nice, keep us posted when you get it ?
Will do! Just ordered it then, not sure how long it will take to get from China to Australia but I will keep you all posted
Sent from my C6603 using XDA Free mobile app
The_Baguette said:
Will do! Just ordered it then, not sure how long it will take to get from China to Australia but I will keep you all posted
Sent from my C6603 using XDA Free mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice
Ok so it turns out that the website I ordered my watch from doesn't ship it... I was told by someone on YouTube that they bought it and they didn't ship it and they refused to refund their money... I've sent them a message though and if I don't hear anything by Wednesday I will contact PayPal and get my money back, then I will more than likely buy a moto 360 locally... I'll keep you all posted, fingers crossed.
Sent from my C6603 using XDA Free mobile app
where did you buy it?
I personally made an order via gearbest. they said that there is a delay in stock of 1-2 weeks, and offered to replace, wait or refund.
and what did you choose? refund or wait? and also , when did this happen? any chance it s back in stock now? I m using the zgpax s8 for a while now and this one really looks like it s worth the upgrade.
I purchased mine from Everbuying and it seems they just don't ship some of their products, weather they're out of stock or not I'm not sure because it didn't say they were but I've sent them a message and I'm hoping for a response... Also someone else had the same problem with the same product and they said after 3 emails to them they still refused to refund it. Hopefully either they will tell me they were out of stock or they will refund my money, because if not I'll have to sort it out with PayPal...
Sent from my C6603 using XDA Free mobile app
I just received a reply from Everbuying saying that they were out of stock and I should wait 10-15 days for more stock to arrive, however I now have enough for a moto 360 so I will be purchasing one of them... I may purchase a watch similar to this one and do custom roms, etc. In the future but for now I kind of just want to know what I'm purchasing, thank everyone!
Sent from my C6603 using XDA Free mobile app
Hi all,
If you want to greatly improve the way your head unit works, sounds and looks like - you've come to the right place!
Why install this?
With this package you will greatly improve:
Stability
Speed
User Interface
Sound tweaking options
Customization options
Following our previous Super MOD guide, we have now completed a new project, this time on a newer YT9216BJ head unit running the Android 6 API23 operating system (fake Android 8.1, 9.0 and 9.1).
If your head unit is Android 8 API 27 (fake Android 10 or 11), proceed to this guide instead.
This guide is for YT9216BJ units with 1 Gb RAM and 16Gb flash with no physical buttons*.
ON PHYSICAL BUTTONS: this software has only been tested on head units with no physical buttons (like volume) | Before making any changes, access the CAR SETTINGS -> FACTORY SETTINGS -> ENCODER SETTINGS on your head unit and take a screenshot of the current settings (see example below). After installing the package, go back to these settings and adjust them if needed. If that doesn't help and if you can't successfully re-calibrate the buttons after installing the firmware, restore your backup
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Do not use this package if your unit is "HIFI" or has a separate radio chip installed (A or NXP series)
!! TAKE A PICTURE OF YOUR SYSTEM INFO AND KERNEL VERSION BEFORE DOING ANYTHING TO YOUR HEAD UNIT !!
Disclaimer
I do not create the software itself but rather use research and put together different mods and hacks into one package that includes very user-friendly step-by-step instructions on how to install it all. You will find the links to original posts in the instructions pdf's if credit is due. The software might include smaller changes made by me and has been fully tested in real units.
>>>This mod only works on units with screen resolution of 1024x600 px. It will not work on Tesla-style units<<<
The Software Package contains:
Custom Android 6 firmware for YT9216BJ
ROOT (SuperSU)
TWRP Recovery
Viper4Android / Viper4A / ViperFX
Custom UI (Car Launcher)
Custom Boot Animation
. . .
!! ALWAYS BACKUP YOUR UNIT BEFORE MAKING ANY CHANGES TO IT!!
DOWNLOAD #4
ExtremeMOD Software Package & Drivers - YT9216BJ
STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE (upgrading from working stock firmware):
DO NOT SKIP ANY STEPS, AND INSTALL EVERYTHING IN THE CORRECT ORDER. STEPS 5 AND 6 ARE MOST CRITICAL.
Proceed to download the software package for your unit and the drivers package in the same folder
It's highly recommended to do these upgrades with your unit connected on your desktop, rather than in the car. Video Guide
Install the Mediatek & ADB drivers on your Windows computer. Video Guide - use the same principle for ADB drivers.
Backup your current system by exporting a full memory dump. Video Guide
Import back your memory dump from step-5 to ensure it fully works. This is how.
Install the package. Separate instructions are included in every folder of the downloaded zip file. Follow them by the order.
IF THIS SOFTWARE PACKAGE HAS BRICKED YOUR HEAD UNIT AND YOU HAVE YOUR BACKUP AVAILABLE, follow the steps below:
DO NOT SKIP ANY STEPS, AND INSTALL EVERYTHING IN THE CORRECT ORDER.
It's highly recommended to do these upgrades with your unit connected on your desktop, rather than in the car. Follow this post on how to do that.
Install the Mediatek & ADB drivers on your Windows computer. Video Guide - use the same principle for ADB drivers - (download link is in the video description)
Watch this video on Test Point recovery
Import back your memory dump. This is how.
If successful - try to install the software package again or stay with your original one
IF THIS SOFTWARE PACKAGE HAS BRICKED YOUR HEAD UNIT AND YOU HAVE NO BACKUP AVAILABLE, follow the steps below:
Share the pictures of your System Info and Kernel in this thread and I'll try to help you
** IF YOU ARE UNABLE TO RESTORE YOUR UNIT, PLEASE CONSIDER DONATING IT TO US @ ExtremeMOD, SO WE CAN BUILD MORE MODS AND TUTORIALS---------------------------------------------------------
This post is being frequently updated and you'll find more guides and mods our forum signature---------------------------------------------------------
Thanks! And if this post is helpful to you please don't forget to "like" it.
Enjoy!
[V4A][VIPER4ANDROID][ViperFX][ROOT][TWRP][8227L][YT9216BJ]
Hello,
I want to use this guide for my head unit. But it says YT9216CJ, I have included pictures.
Also how do you connect this to a PC/laptop?
Highlites said:
Hello,
I want to use this guide for my head unit. But it says YT9216CJ, I have included pictures.
Also how do you connect this to a PC/laptop?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The easiest way is to buy a 12v 5A power adapter. Something like this. Then connect the RED (acc) and the YELLOW (B) cable to + (plus) and the black (ground) cable to - (minus).
That's good idea. I have many 12 volts adapters that I can use and strip them. I know that's unsafe and could potentially fry the unit.
I'm assuming a type a to type a cable is needed to connect it to a computer?
Highlites said:
That's good idea. I have many 12 volts adapters that I can use and strip them. I know that's unsafe and could potentially fry the unit.
I'm assuming a type a to type a cable is needed to connect it to a computer?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You will not fry the unit if you use at least 12V and max 14V adapter with a minimum amperage of 5A.
When you connect the cables, just put some electrical tape around the connections so they don't touch each other.
Yes you'll need a USB-A cable of maximum 90 cm long.
The next step would be to read the guides on how to install drivers in order to access the unit.
Highlites said:
Hello,
I want to use this guide for my head unit. But it says YT9216CJ, I have included pictures.
Also how do you connect this to a PC/laptop?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would advise against using this mod on your unit as it does not support "HIFI" models. I am currently working on an Android 8 super mod and that includes everything. Stay tuned.
The new guide for Android 8 units is now available. It covers all Android 10 and 11 fakes.
Can my unit follow this guide or should I follow another One?
madsurfer1 said:
Can my unit follow this guide or should I follow another One?View attachment 5389371
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would probably recommend the Android 8 software package instead.
iceblue1980 said:
I would probably recommend the Android 8 software package instead.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thank you so much for your anwser
I only want root so I can enable multi-window, is it an easier to get root?
Thank you
madsurfer1 said:
thank you so much for your anwser
I only want root so I can enable multi-window, is it an easier to get root?
Thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The proper root for this unit requires modified firmware. You can of course try without it but chances are you'll either brick your unit or in "best" case get unstable root.
Just gotta say I urgently wave anyone off of this project as it is.
Most importantly this line of tablets sucks. The screen sucks, the specs suck, the performance sucks, it's max 2g crap that'll still suck after it's hacked, the screen glare is laughable/day-unusable, it crashes, stops responding to physical buttons randomly, and it has no amp which will throw unsuspecting people. The audio it does provide is a total diarrhea blast through a cheap rca canbus adapter with ground interference for miles so again, you better have a rated amp and isolater for your speakers and know audio wiring. Also hey the software is clearly disingenuous chinese spycrap that would probably try to kindnap your child if it could, to the point that I don't know if I'd even trust root hunting to find all the lies.
Past that I can't endorse this tutorial either I'm afraid. Look at the failure/success ratio in this thread already and add mine to the failure pile.
Modders are going to get into this and dl a folder sequence that looks step by step for each but then opens up into different subinstructions requiring knowledge bases you didn't know you needed until you're in it. You're gonna be messing with device manager and secure boot modes in windows and custom power wiring outside the car just to get going. To deal with that you're going to go down more forum nightmares mid way, stuff that should all be on a unified 1,2,3,4 instruction set in the main post imo. I'm capable and I'd call this written procedure luring unsuspecting people into bad times.
I had to bail on this project some weeks ago after that "boot into secure mode in windows to install temporary unsigned USB drivers (which can revert and fail while you're working on the project with so much as a windows update) just to get it to communicate" process. Then of course it never did communicate, step by step trying across 3 devices in specifiied acc wiring positions and every other attempt under the sun. This is of course after you've and soldered up this failure of a unit to a power source to hack it outside the car which is ridiculous to need to do in itself, and a dozen more things most people wouldn't sign up for if it were made a bit more clear.
I'd be willing factory reboot and get that guy from the android 8 thread the clean yt9216bj image except I don't want to waste day 4 screwing with the non working ass-up usb/windows head unit software.
The product itself is obviously not worth it and...rant but yeah this tutorial suffers from the super common XDA problem where the author is super tech skilled!...but just too in their own head to relate 1:1 what regular people need to know as if visitors were working along side them all year. I respect all the work that went in but imo this as presented seems to be tanking people's efforts and stress them out. It'd be more worth it to risk the brick if this were a hack that you shove in the usb and it goes. It's very not that.
At the time of writing I suggest saving yourself xda therapy costs, spend on a cruthfield screen that actually works, is nice, you can see in the daytime, you can mod into an enclosure yourself, and will probably have a way easier hack with much better function before and very much after a hack. I'm probably going to shove an m80 into this aptly named BJ unit and explode it like the chinese firework trash it is.
sylcat said:
Just gotta say I urgently wave anyone off of this project as it is.
Most importantly this line of tablets sucks. The screen sucks, the specs suck, the performance sucks, it's max 2g crap that'll still suck after it's hacked, the screen glare is laughable/day-unusable, it crashes, stops responding to physical buttons randomly, and it has no amp which will throw unsuspecting people. The audio it does provide is a total diarrhea blast through a cheap rca canbus adapter with ground interference for miles so again, you better have a rated amp and isolater for your speakers and know audio wiring. Also hey the software is clearly disingenuous chinese spycrap that would probably try to kindnap your child if it could, to the point that I don't know if I'd even trust root hunting to find all the lies.
Past that I can't endorse this tutorial either I'm afraid. Look at the failure/success ratio in this thread already and add mine to the failure pile.
Modders are going to get into this and dl a folder sequence that looks step by step for each but then opens up into different subinstructions requiring knowledge bases you didn't know you needed until you're in it. You're gonna be messing with device manager and secure boot modes in windows and custom power wiring outside the car just to get going. To deal with that you're going to go down more forum nightmares mid way, stuff that should all be on a unified 1,2,3,4 instruction set in the main post imo. I'm capable and I'd call this written procedure luring unsuspecting people into bad times.
I had to bail on this project some weeks ago after that "boot into secure mode in windows to install temporary unsigned USB drivers (which can revert and fail while you're working on the project with so much as a windows update) just to get it to communicate" process. Then of course it never did communicate, step by step trying across 3 devices in specifiied acc wiring positions and every other attempt under the sun. This is of course after you've and soldered up this failure of a unit to a power source to hack it outside the car which is ridiculous to need to do in itself, and a dozen more things most people wouldn't sign up for if it were made a bit more clear.
I'd be willing factory reboot and get that guy from the android 8 thread the clean yt9216bj image except I don't want to waste day 4 screwing with the non working ass-up usb/windows head unit software.
The product itself is obviously not worth it and...rant but yeah this tutorial suffers from the super common XDA problem where the author is super tech skilled!...but just too in their own head to relate 1:1 what regular people need to know as if visitors were working along side them all year. I respect all the work that went in but imo this as presented seems to be tanking people's efforts and stress them out. It'd be more worth it to risk the brick if this were a hack that you shove in the usb and it goes. It's very not that.
At the time of writing I suggest saving yourself xda therapy costs, spend on a cruthfield screen that actually works, is nice, you can see in the daytime, you can mod into an enclosure yourself, and will probably have a way easier hack with much better function before and very much after a hack. I'm probably going to shove an m80 into this aptly named BJ unit and explode it like the chinese firework trash it is.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
First of all, really sorry to hear you had such an unfortunate experience.
Now let me add a few points to your feedback.
1. You need an understanding of both PC computers and Android devices to attempt this. Would you try to repair your car with zero knowledge or experience?
It's also a good practice to look through all the steps and tutorials before deciding whether this is something you wish to attempt.
2. The reason I create these guides is to give the users one-stop software solution in one thread. I couldn't find similar guides here.
3. Software packages are cleaned from the bugs and issues you would normally experience in these units and overall improvements are considerable. If you check the video in my signature, tell me - does this seem like a slow unit? And it's only 1Gb RAM one.
4. These software packages perform even better with appropriate hardware mods. Especially the sound quality. You can check out this website for more info.
5. Users who experience issues post here. But this package alone has over 300 downloads. This indicates high success ratio.
I also help individual users by PM.
Thanks again for your feedback
iceblue1980 said:
First of all, really sorry to hear you had such an unfortunate experience.
Now let me add a few points to your feedback.
1. You need an understanding of both PC computers and Android devices to attempt this. Would you try to repair your car with zero knowledge or experience?
It's also a good practice to look through all the steps and tutorials before deciding whether this is something you wish to attempt.
2. The reason I create these guides is to give the users one-stop software solution in one thread. I couldn't find similar guides here.
3. Software packages are cleaned from the bugs and issues you would normally experience in these units and overall improvements are considerable. If you check the video in my signature, tell me - does this seem like a slow unit? And it's only 1Gb RAM one.
4. These software packages perform even better with appropriate hardware mods. Especially the sound quality. You can check out this website for more info.
5. Users who experience issues post here. But this package alone has over 300 downloads. This indicates high success ratio.
I also help individual users by PM.
Thanks again for your feedback
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, let's go point for point a little bit.
1.) Yeah but when was that in question unless you're mayyybe trying to sass a bit? My personal experience is plenty for this, enough to multimeter my harness pin by pin, design a custom wire harness with 3d printed parts, run debugs with my obd, reconnect lane cams, write my own android apps if I feel like and on and on. My point is to warn to readers that these instructions are pretty deceptive about how involved it is skillwise and just needs a simplification redo. My problems might have been isolated hardware failure, I still don't know after tons of debugging.
2.) Cool, noble, etc etc, you're very nice for doing it. I just want people here to write clearer I guess. Sorry I landed on your project to express it. Years of XDA and it's so much life lost to information gaps / gotcha tutorials. That gets pointed out and it's usually ego mania. Take some crit, XDA posters could really learn what a tutorial format that communicates to most everyone should look like instead of assuming their skill at that is also great thus providing good intented tuts that cause uh....pain.
3.) It'd be fun to test myself but it doesn't work. Looks functional sure. Speedy compared to current gen anything after esp hacks? Nawwww. If you're cool with it chugging after one or two background process I get it. Waze eats enough. While it won't be everyone, if you use a screen with more expectation I again advise against this hardware.
4.) Again for people considering this, how much extra hardware and wiring do you want to buy and staple to a piece of crap and shove behind the head unit to make it almost not suck? How many 3rd party peripherals do you want back there doing one job? Are the manhours you'll spend trying to reign this unpolishable turd in monetarily marginally close to worth it? Appreciative to the hack effort if you're stuck with this screen. If you haven't bought it friggen doooon't.
5.) I argue since silence is not success confirmation it could just as easily indicate people downloading it, the process failing, them not wanting to continue with a newly recognized tragedy of a device, and possibly just dying of dysentary right there while reading the instructions which are in 8 different folders
sylcat said:
Well, let's go point for point a little bit.
1.) Yeah but when was that in question unless you're mayyybe trying to sass a bit? My personal experience is plenty for this, enough to multimeter my harness pin by pin, design a custom wire harness with 3d printed parts, run debugs with my obd, reconnect lane cams, write my own android apps if I feel like and on and on. My point is to warn to readers that these instructions are pretty deceptive about how involved it is skillwise and just needs a simplification redo. My problems might have been isolated hardware failure, I still don't know after tons of debugging.
2.) Cool, noble, etc etc, you're very nice for doing it. I just want people here to write clearer I guess. Sorry I landed on your project to express it. Years of XDA and it's so much life lost to information gaps / gotcha tutorials. That gets pointed out and it's usually ego mania. Take some crit, XDA posters could really learn what a tutorial format that communicates to most everyone should look like instead of assuming their skill at that is also great thus providing good intented tuts that cause uh....pain.
3.) It'd be fun to test myself but it doesn't work. Looks functional sure. Speedy compared to current gen anything after esp hacks? Nawwww. If you're cool with it chugging after one or two background process I get it. Waze eats enough. While it won't be everyone, if you use a screen with more expectation I again advise against this hardware.
4.) Again for people considering this, how much extra hardware and wiring do you want to buy and staple to a piece of crap and shove behind the head unit to make it almost not suck? How many 3rd party peripherals do you want back there doing one job? Are the manhours you'll spend trying to reign this unpolishable turd in monetarily marginally close to worth it? Appreciative to the hack effort if you're stuck with this screen. If you haven't bought it friggen doooon't.
5.) I argue since silence is not success confirmation it could just as easily indicate people downloading it, the process failing, them not wanting to continue with a newly recognized tragedy of a device, and possibly just dying of dysentary right there while reading the instructions which are in 8 different folders
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1. Why not explain what were the issues you encountered?
2. It has taken me a couple of years to learn how to properly work with these units. I tried my best to write as easy to follow guide as I can. I'm grateful for feedback as it helps me improve these guides. They are continously revised. I'm not paid to do this and it is a fairly time consuming undertaking.
3. Current gen Androids are an unfair competition to hacked and re-hacked Android 6 or 8. On the other hand, you can't do much with anything above API 27. Forget about rooting, Viper and TWRP. Also be prepared to pay hundreds of dollars for these units. People who buy Mediatek head units, normally can't spend such money but still deserve great results. This is why I share these mods packages. And it's completely free. All it takes is time and patience.
4. People here and on similar forums are many times interested in making improvements without spending loads of cash and might already have some basic equipment and skills. I haven't posted any hardware mods guides yet but I'm going to.
There are no 3rd party peripherals required. Most of the spare parts can be found in old computers. We at Extrememod.co.uk use premium spare parts as we sell these units fully modified (for charity, no profits) but it's not a requirement.
5. All I can do is to encourage users to post here so I can help if needed.
Cheers
I spent a few days as I said fighting it after it all fell down during the USB unsigned driver portion of the project. Across 3 pcs, driver reinstalls, pin verifications, living in device manager, 12 tech forums tabs open and everything else under the sun the software just refuses to communicate with the screen in any way.
I don't remember everything, I'll get you verbose logs if I ever touch this project again but don't hold your breath. I'm surely bitter over wasted time but in general the nature of in car entertainment cheapouts that need these hacks to even start limping have caused me to reevaluate life itself and what not to waste it on so I'm just pulling the trigger on a Model 3 finally. Screen problem solved for me I guess
My suggestion for readers considering buying remains to run far away if you're not already stuck with the hardware. But if you are and you have infinite patience trying to buff it up then I guess keep harassing poor iceblue here until your hack works and weeew I do wish you all luck!
sylcat said:
I spent a few days as I said fighting it after it all fell down during the USB unsigned driver portion of the project. Across 3 pcs, driver reinstalls, pin verifications, living in device manager, 12 tech forums tabs open and everything else under the sun the software just refuses to communicate with the screen in any way.
I don't remember everything, I'll get you verbose logs if I ever touch this project again but don't hold your breath. I'm surely bitter over wasted time but in general the nature of in car entertainment cheapouts that need these hacks to even start limping have caused me to reevaluate life itself and what not to waste it on so I'm just pulling the trigger on a Model 3 finally. Screen problem solved for me I guess
My suggestion for readers considering buying remains to run far away if you're not already stuck with the hardware. But if you are and you have infinite patience trying to buff it up then I guess keep harassing poor iceblue here until your hack works and weeew I do wish you all luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you are unable to restore your unit, I can have a look at it if you can post me the motherboard. I live in UK. If that's not an option, why not donate it rather than throwing it in the bin? I can arrange pickup if it's within reasonable postage fees.
I'd donate but the math will never work out. It's installed in the honda which I'm selling already, so it'd take pulling it out which us my time+shipping hassle from the states. If I pull it out it's easily worth the $250 cost of the unit in therapy to see it *explode* and I'm not joking so I doubt you're gonna front that too. :v I mean also I don't really want anything about these boards perpetuated. If the next buyer doesn't want it in there it's getting smashed. These kinds of posts I make again to save people time on caaaancerous base products.
sylcat said:
I'd donate but the math will never work out. It's installed in the honda which I'm selling already, so it'd take pulling it out which us my time+shipping hassle from the states. If I pull it out it's easily worth the $250 cost of the unit in therapy to see it *explode* and I'm not joking so I doubt you're gonna front that too. :v I mean also I don't really want anything about these boards perpetuated. If the next buyer doesn't want it in there it's getting smashed. These kinds of posts I make again to save people time on caaaancerous base products.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I understand. I actually care about people succeeding with these mods. You can clearly see how much time I'm putting into these guides and helping people with any issues that come up.
I even offer repairing boards, for free. Donation is a last resort if someone wants to throw their head unit into the bin.
Any modification, as it's essentially a hack - means you're taking a risk. But with proper backup, the risk of ruining your head unit is minimal, as you can always restore it back to what it was.
Again, I'm sorry it didn't work out for you but the issue isn't with the software nor the guides as the success rates are overwhelmingly high, judging from the feedback I receive here and on my website.
@iceblue1980
Do you know of a way to get live wallpapers working?