So, my problem is that my camera does not seem to focus an Objekt, even when I "touch " it in the camera app. It is still a bit blurry when I view the taken shot. When I look at my friends Nexus 4, colors are much better and everything is sharp. Is it possible that I have a broken camera? The settings are exactly the same...
It may be helpful to post some example shots.
1st thing to look for is to make sure that the glass covering the lens is clean. And shoot in good lighting.
Known problem, please star the issue http://code.google.com/p/android/issues/detail?id=43153&thanks=43153&ts=1359017856
AW: Bad camera focus
And the washed out colors? Max it be the fault of rev10 devices? A friend of mine said something like that
//edit
Here's a sample. If you zomm in you will see the Blurry borders. They are really annoying because when I look at the pic on a PC, I am able to notice it. Maybe it's the cameras fault or Googles fault for bad drivers and software.
http://db.tt/QSb8F0KE
Sent from my Nexus 4 using xda app-developers app
It seems to me like the hardware is perfectly capable of the focal lengths to get clear focus, it's just the autofocus implementation that's broken. Is autofocus a driver level implementation? If so, would it be feasible to try and create a custom driver to at least allow for true manual focus?
There are several things that can be going on here. 1.) it ain't a great lens, so not all areas of the picture are going to be razor sharp. I see a good degree of softness in the corners.
2.) I have noticed the camera's default behavior is to use lower ISO, and longer shutter speeds in less than ideal light, making camera movement a major factor in blurry photos. If you're gonna test under less than ideal light, rig up some kind of tripod.
3.) Auto-focus algorithms decide focus based on maximum contrast. If the area of your focus reticle is over an area that has poor contrast, focus will be compromised. Low light also lowers contrast.
4.) Depth of field. It is limited with this lens. Make sure areas you are checking for focus are on/near the same plane with shots that have reasonable distance separating foreground/background objects. They all can't be in focus.
With all that said, reasonable photography skills can get pretty reasonable results from this camera, as is exhibited in the photos posted in the photo thread of the "general" forum.
It does focus, but has a small delay tho..
actually the focus on N4 is slow a little bit ..
Is there any new piece of information about the bad camera focus?
anyone else have a pink haze when capturing white objects
Xperia Z1 camera:
Exposure is basically the AMOUNT OF LIGHT (controlled by the aperture) that is captured over a SPECIFIC AMOUNT OF TIME (controlled by the shutter speed).
A HIGH aperture number (fstop) = LESS light being recorded on your digital sensor while a LOW aperture number = MORE light being recorded on your digital sensor. apertures are called fstops.
Xperia z1 have Fstop of 2.0 which is really good and low. Sony Cybershot DSC-RX100, Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX7. Samsung EX2F, Canon PowerShot G15, Leica D-Lux 6, Nikon Coolpix P330, Olympus XZ-2 iHS all have f2.0
Shutter speed: it is the amount of time your shutter stays open when you click the button
The longer your shutter stays open the more motion it will have time to record. The shorter the time your shutter remains open, the more motion it will freeze. But at low light you need more exposure
ISO rating along with the shutter speed and aperture setting are the three elements that determine the final exposure of the photographic image.
The ISO rating, which ranges in value from 25 to 6400 (or beyond), indicates the specific light sensitivity. The lower the number, the less sensitive to light the film stock or image sensor is. Conversely, a higher number indicates a higher sensitivity to light, thereby allowing that film or image sensor to work better in low light conditions.
the lower ISO rating also meant that the photosensitive grains of salt on the film acetate were very fine, thus producing a smoother, cleaner image. A higher ISO had larger, jagged grains of salt, thus producing “rougher” or grainier images.
Lower ISO ratings produce color-accurate, smooth and aesthetically appealing images… and this requires ideal lighting conditions. However, there are some subjects that you want to photograph in low light conditions. Or, you may want to stop fast-moving objects. In both situations, you need higher ISOs to capture those images with an acceptable exposure.with the higher ISOs, you can use faster shutter speeds to eliminate motion blur and/or camera shake. In the event that you want to use motion blur creatively, then decreasing the ISO is simple, and you can then decrease the shutter speed to achieve the desired motion blur and still have smooth, noise-less images.
The size of the digital camera’s image sensor dictates what ISO setting provides the least amount of digital noise. One must understand that image sensor size is not the same thing as pixel count. Image sensor size is the actual physical dimensions of the sensor, for most of the history of digital photography the image sensor has been smaller than a 35mm film frame. On point and shoot cameras, the sensor was quite small, and on most DSLR cameras, the image sensor has been the size of APC film (23x15mm). Smaller image sensors produce much more digital noise at higher ISOs (like 800) mainly because the high pixel count means that more pixels are being packed into a smaller area, thus producing more grain at all but the lowest ISO.
Sony xperia Z1 has sensor size of 1/2.3. Most compact digital cameras used small 1/2.3" sensors. Such cameras include Canon Powershot SX230 IS, Fuji Finepix Z90 and Nikon Coolpix S9100.
Whenever you shoot in low light or use a long lens, or if you simply aren't holding a camera steady, you risk introducing camera shake into your images. This manifests itself as a blurring of details, and unlike other image quality issues it's not something that can be fixed in post-processing.
The three main image stabilisation systems on offer:
Manufacturers have different names for lens-based stabilisation, but they all largely work in the same way.
ISO based
All but the cheapest compacts offer image stabilisation, and the easiest solution from the manufacturer's point of view is one based on sensitivity. This adds nothing to the manufacturing of a camera as it's simply the ISO which needs to be adjusted, easily handled by the camera's firmware.
As this is the most basic form of image stabilisation, and as other types are preferable, manufacturers often call it 'digital' image stabilisation in press releases and throughout specification lists.
With this type of image stabilisation, the camera looks at the focal length and shutter speed being used, and decides whether the two will create a sharp enough image. If it deems them to be inadequate the camera's sensitivity will be raised, which in turn increases the shutter speed, but the resulting signal will need to be amplified to a greater extent.
So, a camera could choose to raise an image that would be otherwise captured at 1/20sec to 1/80sec, but it would need to raise the sensitivity twofold. So, from ISO 100 this would rise to ISO 400, from ISO 200 to ISO 800 and so on.
The image is still captured sharply as a more appropriate shutter speed has been used, but this process gives rise to noise which is typical with images captured at higher sensitivities. For this reason other systems are preferable in more expensive cameras and lenses. In many compacts, this method is often complemented by sensor-based stabilisation.
Sensor based
Sensor-based stabilisation also uses information such as focal length and shutter speed on which to base its calculations, but instead of adjusting the sensitivity the camera physically moves the sensor.
The sensor will typically be mounted on a platform, which will move to compensate for any movement when the camera senses it is necessary.
Minolta first introduced the feature in its DiMAGE A1 camera back in 2003, and, after merging with Konica, incorporated it into the 7D DSLR.
Sony continued the feature when it took over Konica Minolta's imaging business, and was soon joined by Pentax, Olympus and others. All three companies continue to use the system today, and it has since been adopted by other manufacturers for their own hybrid systems and compacts.
In the case of DSLRs and hybrids, this type of image stabilisation brings the significant advantage of allowing lenses to be made smaller, lighter and cheaper (as they do not need to incorporate any form of image stabilisation themselves), and is effective with virtually any mounted lens. This is particularly handy in the case of older lenses which predate image stabilisation technology, although it may be necessary to first input the focal length of the lens into the camera, depending on the lens, camera and the nature of communication between the two.
Lens based
Lens-based image stabilisation came just before digital cameras were made accessible, but the two have more or less evolved over a similar space of time.
Today, the technology is found in a range of optics manufactured by Canon and Nikon (particularly those targeted towards the professional), as well throughout the ranges from independent lens manufacturers Sigma and Tamron. Panasonic also uses the system in its lenses designed for the Micro Four Thirds system, as well as those found in its Lumix range of compacts.
Lens-based stabilisation systems typically work by shifting a lens group towards the rear of the lens on a plane perpendicular to the optical axis.
This is done with the help of two gyro sensors inside the lens, one for yaw and one for pitch. These notice the angle and speed of any movement, and this information is fed to a microprocessor which computes the necessary adjustments needed to be made by the lens group. By doing so, the light's angle of refraction is changed so that it hits the sensor in the right place.
Manufacturers of these systems claim that this type of stabilisation is the most effective as it can be tailored specifically to the objective in which it us used. And, as stabilisation takes place in the lens, the photographer is able to view the effect through the viewfinder.
Typically this activates once the shutter release has been half-depressed, although it is possible on different camera/lens combinations to set when the stabilisation begins, such as only at the moment of capture, for example. This has the additional benefit of conserving power, as, left on all the time, lens-based image stabilisation systems can eat up battery power fairly quickly.
One recent development in this area is Canon's Hybrid IS system, which offers two types of correction.
The first is via an angular velocity sensor which notices rotational shake, which is found in existing image-stabilised lenses.
Canon 100mmThe second - and what makes the Hybrid IS system different - is a separate sensor for noticing camera shift (linear) movements, such as when a camera moves up, down, left or right while remaining parallel to the subject. Canon claims that by incorporating both sensors camera shake is better corrected.
I feel low noise is more important than full zoom blur..
the focal length describes the distance in millimetres between the lens and the image it forms on the sensor (or film) when it is sharply focused at infinity - the farthest possible distance.
When a ray of light passes from a less dense to a more dense medium (such as from air to glass) it slows down. If it strikes the glass surface at an angle, it is also bent a little, and this is called refraction. When it passes back into air, it speeds up again, and is again refracted if the surface is at an angle.
Thus a curved piece of glass will focus a parallel beam of light (arriving perpendicular to the lens, that is along its axis) to a point. The interesting thing happens when the light rays are parallel to each other but not parallel to the axis through the centre of the lens. This same lens will also focus these, but to a point above, below, or beside the focal point for rays along the axis, and all these points of focus of parallel rays will form a plane, called the focal plane of the lens. So, you put the sensor at this focal plane, and you've now used the lens to concentrate the light on the sensor.
As the focal length and magnification of a lens increases, the image appears more compressed, resulting in less visual distinction and separation between the foreground, middle ground, and background.
With shorter focal lengths and wider angles of view than standard lenses, wideangle lenses are employed by landscape and reportage specialists. Remember you'll need a shorter focal length on many DSLRs to get the equivalent field of view if you don't have a full-frame sensor. There's a plethora of wideangle lenses available, from 8mm ‘fisheye' lenses to 28mm lenses. Wide zooms are increasingly popular and effective.
Sony xperia Z1 uses 27mm wide angle lens... this good for parties if you need background and sceneries.
Personally i feel the problem with all sony mobile phone camera is their digital image stabilisation process. they are kicking in more ISO to make it look grainy. i cannot confirm it since i cannot get the picture sample during various stages of processing. but this is a very possible candidate. Since post processing will not induce so much issue.. even with not so professional algorithms i made using wavelength, cosine transforms and other denoising and sharpening algorithms. I can make better results.
Camera Sensor
There are 2 types of sensors CMOS and CCD
In a CCD device, the charge is actually transported across the chip and read at one corner of the array. An analog-to-digital converter turns each pixel's value into a digital value. In most CMOS devices, there are several transistors at each pixel that amplify and move the charge using more traditional wires. The CMOS approach is more flexible because each pixel can be read individually.
CCDs use a special manufacturing process to create the ability to transport charge across the chip without distortion. This process leads to very high-quality sensors in terms of fidelity and light sensitivity. CMOS chips, on the other hand, use traditional manufacturing processes to create the chip -- the same processes used to make most microprocessors . Because of the manufacturing differences, there have been some noticeable differences between CCD and CMOS sensors.
CCD sensors, as mentioned above, create high-quality, low-noise images. CMOS sensors, traditionally, are more susceptible to noise.
Because each pixel on a CMOS sensor has several transistors located next to it, the light sensitivity of a CMOS chip tends to be lower. Many of the photons hitting the chip hit the transistors instead of the photodiode.
CMOS traditionally consumes little power. Implementing a sensor in CMOS yields a low-power sensor.
CCDs use a process that consumes lots of power. CCDs consume as much as 100 times more power than an equivalent CMOS sensor.
CMOS chips can be fabricated on just about any standard silicon production line, so they tend to be extremely inexpensive compared to CCD sensors.
CCD sensors have been mass produced for a longer period of time, so they are more mature. They tend to have higher quality and more pixels.
CMOS sensors produce less noise at high ISOs, but CCD sensors tend to be sharper given a consistent scene.
These factors also contribute to the clarity of the clarity of the image and more noise in sony cameras.
front illuminated sensor
Front-illuminated digital camera sensor consists of a matrix of individual picture elements where each element is constructed with a lens at the front, wiring in the middle, and photodetectors at the back. This traditional orientation of the sensor places the active matrix on its front surface and simplifies manufacturing. The matrix and its wiring, however, reflect some of the light, and thus the photocathode layer can only receive the remainder of the incoming light; the reflection reduces the signal that is available to be captured
Backlit CMOS
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A backlit is different from a regular CMOS sensor, in that all the wiring and circuitry that's used to carry the electronic signals from each photosite or pixel is located at the back of the sensor instead of the front.
The photosites on most sensors consist of a micro lens, then some wiring, and behind that the photosites that record the light falling on the sensor. By removing the wiring and circuitry from the area between the lens and the photosite, far more light is able to reach the photosites, and this in turn means the image being captured needs far less amplification.
A back-illuminated structure minimizes the degradation of sensitivity to optical angle response, while also increasing the amount of light that enters each pixel due to the lack of obstacles such as metal wiring and transistors that have been moved to the reverse of the silicon substrate.
However, compared to conventional front-illuminated structures, back-illuminated structures commonly causes problems such as noise, dark current, defective pixels and color mixture that lead to image degradation and also cause a decrease in the signal-to-noise ratio.
This also further degrades the image quality.
Exmor-R
Sony's branding of this backlit sensor is called Exmor sensor..
To overcome the disadvantages of backlit Sony has developed a unique photo-diode structure and on-chip lens optimized for back-illuminated structures, that achieves a higher sensitivity of 6dB and a lower random noise of 2dB without light by reducing noise, dark current(The relatively small electric current that flows through a photosensitive device when no photons are entering the device). and defect pixels compared to the conventional front-illuminated structure. Additionally, Sony's advanced technologies such as high-precision alignment have addressed any color mixture problems. Also it uses unique "Column-Parallel A/D Conversion Technique" and dual noise reduction.. but based on the samples i have tested in mobile sony was not able to reduce noise up to 2db and dark current is not fully filtered out. This can be seen in Xperia Arc. the first phone with this sensor. but still there was supporting circuitry. adjacent to the pixel section.
Exmor- RS
The “Exmor RS” is a CMOS image sensor that adopts a unique ‘stacked structure.’ This structure layers the pixel section, containing formations of back-illuminated pixels over the chip affixed with mounted circuits for signal processing, in place of conventional supporting substrates used for back-illuminated CMOS image sensors.this further reduces light reflection.
Xperia Z1 display:
Triluminous: all LCD display cant emit light by themselves. they need a backlight to produce the light. All displays have white backlight . White light contains all colors of visible color. LCD contains 3 Filters per pixels called subpixel which allows only one light to pass through them. one for red, one for blue and one for green. these are called primary colors. and using the combinations of these colors any color can be made. but in normal screen it passess colors other than these by passing similar colors. for eg orange for red. this produces less accurate colors. Sony changed this white light into triluminous technology. Here they use quantum dots behind each subpixel. these have different properties.the one behind red absorbs blue light, gets excited and transmits red light. green one emits green.. so the backlight used is blue. hence the colors produced are more accurate.
human can see colors between wavelengths of 400 to 700 nm. the following figure represents CIE diagram of human eye
In order to check the color reproduction of the display. pass pure red, green and blue light. mark the point in CIE diagram which gives same color. draw a triangle connecting these points. you will get all the color that display can produce. normally all displays produce sRGB color space.Which is represented in fig
If you see the figures superamoled has the widest gamut.
If you see for triluminous for mobile it is seen that it cant produce the same gamut as seen on TV. it is just a little wider. not as much as sony claims
It is better than all phone except amoled screen
X-Reality:
Hue, along with saturation and brightness make up the three distinct attributes of color.
hue refers to a pure color—one without added white or black. Hue refers to a specific tone of colour. It is not another name for colour as colour can have saturation and brightness as well as a hue.
Saturation refers to the purity, or intensity of a colour. It is the intensity of a hue from grey. At maximum saturation a colour would contain no grey at all. At minimum saturation, a colour would contain mostly grey. Pink may be thought of as having the same hue as red but being less saturated. A fully saturated color is one with no mixture of white. We increase the separation between colors to enhance saturation. As a result, an increase in saturation results in an increase in contrast, brightness, and sharpness. A change in saturation normally has a more noticeable effect on vibrant colors and less on dull colors or colors that are almost neutral.
Brightness: refers to how much white, or black, is contained within a colour.
Contrast: is defined as the separation between the darkest and brightest areas of the image. Increase contrast and you increase the separation between dark and bright, making shadows darker and highlights brighter. Decrease contrast and you bring the shadows up and the highlights down to make them closer to one another. Adding contrast usually adds "pop" and makes an image look more vibrant while decreasing contrast can make an image look duller.
Gamma Adjustment: nonlinear adjustment to the distribution of midtones in the image. What this means is that you can adjust the middle tones of the image without changing the darkness of the shadows or the lightness of the highlights.
Sharpness:Sharpness can be defined as edge contrast, that is, the contrast along edges in a photo. When we increase sharpness, we increase the contrast only along/near edges in the photo while leaving smooth areas of the image alone.
Image noise: Reducing this noise can greatly enhance your final image or print. The problem is that most techniques to reduce or remove noise always end up softening the image as well. Some softening may be acceptable for images consisting primarily of smooth water or skies, but foliage in landscapes can suffer with even conservative attempts to reduce noise. There are various techniques to achieve this.
Color Temperature is a measurement in Degrees Kelvin that indicates the hue of a specific type of light source. You can use a Color Temperature (as shown in the chart below) to suggest realistic colors for the lights.
During decoding of an image or a single frame in the video. we divide image into 8x8 blocks and apply certain algorithm. After this they analyses these frame to understand the type of content in the image after this they change saturation, brightness, contrast, gamma, enhance the brightness and reduces the noise. this continues till the entire frame is processed. After this the ambient light sensor calculates the type of room in which we are seeing the video and applies a filter. For different scenarios we get different values of the parameters used. this is a dynamic proprietary algorithm. If we put standard color space image to check this, we always get the same result. as the content is not changing. hence it is not possible to decode the algorithm used easily. Battery consumption will be more during this mode due to increased processing.
Panel Technology
Thin Film Transistor
Liquid crystal displays, which are used in calculators and devices with similarly simple displays, have direct-driven image elements; and therefore, a voltage can be easily applied across just one segment of these types of displays without interfering with other segments of their displays. That would be impractical for a large display because it would have a large number of (colour) picture elements (pixels) and thus, it would require millions of connections, both top and bottom for each one of the three colors (red, green and blue) of every pixel. To avoid that issue, the pixels are addressed in rows and columns, reducing the connection count from millions down to thousands. The column and row wires attach to transistor switches, one for each pixel. The one-way current passing characteristic of the transistor prevents the charge that is being applied to each pixel from being drained between refreshes to a display's image. Each pixel is a small capacitor with a layer of insulating liquid crystal sandwiched between transparent conductive ITO layers. This type of arrangement if used the display is called TFT.. all mobile phone displays use TFT active matrix.
Low-temperature polycrystalline silicon (LTPS )
The circuit layout process of a TFT-LCD is very similar to that of semiconductor products. However, rather than fabricating the transistors from silicon, that is formed into a crystalline silicon wafer, they are made from a thin film of amorphous silicon that is deposited on a glass panel.
For DPI above 200 the use of amorphous silicon is not possible hence it is replace by Polycrystalline silicon. The “low temperature” part is important because it means this process can create screens using low temperatures, allowing low-cost substances such as plastics to be used as the backing material on which the display panel is infused or created. As a result, it also means you can create more flexible display panels. Hence LTPS is a description of a manufacturing process, not a display technology.
It is AMVA Panel.. did tests will show my findings,,,
(To be continued)
I have ordered a xperia Z1 for myself.I love it and will use it for one year. only thing i want is better contrast on screen.. rest are really good... the phone i reviewed is not mine..OIS is not that much of an issue. A thing sony could add is support for changing ISO manually in superior Auto...
Do not forget to hit Thanks Button
Excellent review thank you for the information it was educational.
How would you rate the Z1 camera against the other smart phones?
I tried the camera and i am satisfied.. it was not using final firmware hence do not know about any iso restriction or other features in early firmware.. waiting for final product
Out of the 3 image stabilization you mentioned: ISO, lens and sensor, are these the categories of OIS or any image stabilization?
According to many web sites, the Z1 does have image stabilization but not OIS... What's the difference
How does the BIOZ image processor come into play?
gwuhua1984 said:
Out of the 3 image stabilization you mentioned: ISO, lens and sensor, are these the categories of OIS or any image stabilization?
According to many web sites, the Z1 does have image stabilization but not OIS... What's the difference
How does the BIOZ image processor come into play?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OIS is lens image stabilisation and ISO is is digital image stabilisation that sony Z1 has...
jos_031 said:
OIS is lens image stabilisation and ISO is is digital image stabilisation that sony Z1 has...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From the photo samples I've been looking at recently after a software update on the Z1. I don't think missing OIS put Z1 at a disadvantage, the photos are still grainy but a lot better than before. What's your overall opinion on Z1's camera when comparing to other phone? My main reason for getting the Z1 is for the camera, dedicated camera button, Z1 impressed me the most when I'm comparing the samples between the current flagships. The daylight photo's colors looked more natural to me, even the low light photo looked better when compared to HTC One and the Nokia cameras.
I was never into AMOLED because the color of the display feels a bit unrealistic to me sometimes, thanks to your explanation, that's probably due to the contrast being too high for my preference.
I think that's the reason why I always loved HTC's phones because the contrast is not too high for me. The only thing right now is that the 4MP ultrapixel camera is way too unacceptable to me because of how grainy it is without HDR. If comparing the camera between the 4MP ultrapixel and Z1, which one would you say is better?
gwuhua1984 said:
From the photo samples I've been looking at recently after a software update on the Z1. I don't think missing OIS put Z1 at a disadvantage, the photos are still grainy but a lot better than before. What's your overall opinion on Z1's camera when comparing to other phone? My main reason for getting the Z1 is for the camera, dedicated camera button, Z1 impressed me the most when I'm comparing the samples between the current flagships. The daylight photo's colors looked more natural to me, even the low light photo looked better when compared to HTC One and the Nokia cameras.
I was never into AMOLED because the color of the display feels a bit unrealistic to me sometimes, thanks to your explanation, that's probably due to the contrast being too high for my preference.
I think that's the reason why I always loved HTC's phones because the contrast is not too high for me. The only thing right now is that the 4MP ultrapixel camera is way too unacceptable to me because of how grainy it is without HDR. If comparing the camera between the 4MP ultrapixel and Z1, which one would you say is better?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
About that overall opinion, i guess its what phone you want to compare it to... I got to tell you the pictures i've seen compared to some pictures i took personally on a lumia 1020 do not support some people's claims that the z1 can rival the 1020. I also compared some pictures to pictures i took on the galaxy note 2 and the z1 is worlds ahead of that for sure. Also can you link the latest images from the newest z1 firmware? I'd like to take a look at them.
P.S. Jos: you're really nailing these explanations. Thanks for taking the time to post here.
Here are some youtube videos that also explain some sony technologies, they are pretty informative and the host is pretty cute too
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M51KPcYKZP8&feature=c4-overview&list=UUB2527zGV3A0Km_quJiUaeQ - Triluminous Technology
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M51KPcYKZP8 - X Reality Technology
systoxity said:
About that overall opinion, i guess its what phone you want to compare it to... I got to tell you the pictures i've seen compared to some pictures i took personally on a lumia 1020 do not support some people's claims that the z1 can rival the 1020. I also compared some pictures to pictures i took on the galaxy note 2 and the z1 is worlds ahead of that for sure. Also can you link the latest images from the newest z1 firmware? I'd like to take a look at them.
P.S. Jos: you're really nailing these explanations. Thanks for taking the time to post here.
Here are some youtube videos that also explain some sony technologies, they are pretty informative and the host is pretty cute too
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M51KPcYKZP8&feature=c4-overview&list=UUB2527zGV3A0Km_quJiUaeQ - Triluminous Technology
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M51KPcYKZP8 - X Reality Technology
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think you could find the new pictures from GSMArena's hands on. The updated photo samples were supposedly taken after the new software update, altho not mentioned by GSMArena. I personally think the photos that were taken on the 6th from GSMArena were a lot less grainy than the samples taken during the first day of Z1's announcement from other sites like phonearena.
http://www.gsmarena.com/sony_xperia_z1_ifa_2013-review-977p3.php
http://www.phonearena.com/news/Sony-Xperia-Z1-photo-and-video-samples-show-off-its-20.7MP-camera_id47086#5-
---------- Post added at 02:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:03 PM ----------
systoxity said:
About that overall opinion, i guess its what phone you want to compare it to... I got to tell you the pictures i've seen compared to some pictures i took personally on a lumia 1020 do not support some people's claims that the z1 can rival the 1020. I also compared some pictures to pictures i took on the galaxy note 2 and the z1 is worlds ahead of that for sure. Also can you link the latest images from the newest z1 firmware? I'd like to take a look at them.
P.S. Jos: you're really nailing these explanations. Thanks for taking the time to post here.
Here are some youtube videos that also explain some sony technologies, they are pretty informative and the host is pretty cute too
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M51KPcYKZP8&feature=c4-overview&list=UUB2527zGV3A0Km_quJiUaeQ - Triluminous Technology
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M51KPcYKZP8 - X Reality Technology
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh yeah, here's the camera samples for comparing Z1 and 1020.
http://www.tbreak.ae/features/camera-comparison-nokia-lumia-1020-vs-sony-xperia-z1
1020's night time full zoom was better, but I didn't like how there was a yellow tint to the night time photos. Day time photos both looked pretty good. I think ultimately I may be getting the Z1, but I will probably confirm that decision once I see a more in depth camera review on the retail units from GSMArena.
Need Help
I need help from someone.. I returned the test phone.. can anyone install apps like System Panel App, Android Status or any app that support plotting RAM and processor utilisation. install that turn on time shift mode do not click photo take screenshot of change in RAM and processor utilisation. next click a photo and take change in RAM and processor utilisation. repeat same in AR mode and normal mode. And send me those Pics. This will help in avoiding a travel to do these..
gwuhua1984 said:
I think you could find the new pictures from GSMArena's hands on. The updated photo samples were supposedly taken after the new software update, altho not mentioned by GSMArena. I personally think the photos that were taken on the 6th from GSMArena were a lot less grainy than the samples taken during the first day of Z1's announcement from other sites like phonearena.
http://www.gsmarena.com/sony_xperia_z1_ifa_2013-review-977p3.php
http://www.phonearena.com/news/Sony-Xperia-Z1-photo-and-video-samples-show-off-its-20.7MP-camera_id47086#5-
---------- Post added at 02:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:03 PM ----------
Oh yeah, here's the camera samples for comparing Z1 and 1020.
http://www.tbreak.ae/features/camera-comparison-nokia-lumia-1020-vs-sony-xperia-z1
1020's night time full zoom was better, but I didn't like how there was a yellow tint to the night time photos. Day time photos both looked pretty good. I think ultimately I may be getting the Z1, but I will probably confirm that decision once I see a more in depth camera review on the retail units from GSMArena.
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Thank you for the update, the pictures do look improved from previous ones. This is purely speculation but from what i've seen in the past with post processing effects, the older shots look like sony is trying to smooth the grain away and then over sharpening the picture to compensate. You can see a few artifacts in the older pictures (when you view them 1:1). Another possibility is that whatever digital stabilization sony is using is going nuts on the photos.. Either way more software updates could theoretically improve picture quality further. Does anyone know if the z1 camera menu lets you shoot raw or manipulate image stabilization?
jos_031 said:
I need help from someone.. I returned the test phone.. can anyone install apps like System Panel App, Android Status or any app that support plotting RAM and processor utilisation. install that turn on time shift mode do not click photo take screenshot of change in RAM and processor utilisation. next click a photo and take change in RAM and processor utilisation. repeat same in AR mode and normal mode. And send me those Pics. This will help in avoiding a travel to do these..
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You should make this request a new thread to get more attention. By the way how did you get a review unit? I'm just curious about the process and requirements.
i can not tell exactly how i got the review unit. the guy will lose his job for allowing me to test during nights ...And i do not want to bother him again..
jos_031 said:
i can not tell exactly how i got the review unit. the guy will lose his job for allowing me to test during nights ...And i do not want to bother him again..
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I understand, I thought you got it directly from Sony to review.
systoxity said:
Thank you for the update, the pictures do look improved from previous ones. This is purely speculation but from what i've seen in the past with post processing effects, the older shots look like sony is trying to smooth the grain away and then over sharpening the picture to compensate. You can see a few artifacts in the older pictures (when you view them 1:1). Another possibility is that whatever digital stabilization sony is using is going nuts on the photos.. Either way more software updates could theoretically improve picture quality further. Does anyone know if the z1 camera menu lets you shoot raw or manipulate image stabilization?
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Yeah, could be possible that software updates could improve picture quality. I think HTC One had a update within the first two days improving the photo quality by a lot, but without HDR, the photos still look pixelated and oversharpened when viewing at full size.
X-Reality updated
jos_031 said:
X-Reality updated
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Been waiting for you to give more updates. Can't wait to see this thread completed. I'd love to know how X-Reality affects everything, but you gave me pretty good confidence that I won't be disappointed if I get this device (altho I'm still waiting to decide).
jos_031 said:
X-Reality updated
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that is relly good rewiev by you thank you very much
Updated panel and sensor technology
Very informative post OP.
Just one question, how did you come to the conclusion that the display is e-IPS? Apart from e-IPS I have heard some people say it's ASV, S-PVA & MVA.. Don't know which one is correct
Skickat från min LT26w med Tapatalk 4
This is a great post but people need to understand that all sensors and lenses have a unique character , in noise and sharpness. From what I've seen Sony has lost sharpness due to its image stabilization and favoring high ISO. I think this can be fixed with updates. Thanks to op for the basics this is a great thread needs a sticky for sure.
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I find the camera takes darker pictures, especially in low light, compared to Note 5 (underexposed perhaps? Not a photography buff at all . Also, the snapping pictures in general seems to be slower vs. Note 5.
Any suggestions?
I currently have both 6p and Note 5 and truly find the Note 5 to have an all-around better camera. 6p but bad by any means, but tough comparing to Note 5.
Been comparing to a friend's note 5.
The note seems to overexpose a tad in lower light.
6p seems like it's a tad darker around the edges, but for the most part is a better match to what the eye sees.
Hdr+ balances everything out, and should be used whenever possible - like always.
It works wonders. This coming from an amateur photographer, well, I have been paid for my work, but I still consider myself an amateur - even after 35+ years of playing with cameras.
Phazmos said:
Been comparing to a friend's note 5.
The note seems to overexpose a tad in lower light.
6p seems like it's a tad darker around the edges, but for the most part is a better match to what the eye sees.
Hdr+ balances everything out, and should be used whenever possible - like always.
It works wonders. This coming from an amateur photographer, well, I have been paid for my work, but I still consider myself an amateur - even after 35+ years of playing with cameras.
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Agree with your assessment. Note 5 can tend to overexpose slightly in low light but overall I find Note 5 pics to be a bit clearer in low light. Even with hdr auto on both. Also agree the 6p tends to be darker around the edges. Biggest concern I have with 6p is length of time to focus/snap picture. Seems far longer than Note 5...
lp1527 said:
Agree with your assessment. Note 5 can tend to overexpose slightly in low light but overall I find Note 5 pics to be a bit clearer in low light. Even with hdr auto on both. Also agree the 6p tends to be darker around the edges. Biggest concern I have with 6p is length of time to focus/snap picture. Seems far longer than Note 5...
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Only been playing with the new 6p for a couple days, but so far it seems pretty instantaneous.
Point, click, there's a picture - and in focus.
Been very very happy with the camera so far.
With HDR off the shutter is crazy fast, pretty much instantaneous. I keep auto HDR on because the HDR on this phone creates truly amazing results. If your phone is shooting HDR there is a little bit of a lag when taking a photo but not terrible. I'll take the slight lag of the HDR because the increased image quality far outweighs it.
As for underexposing images, I don't think there is any issue there. Keep in mind that the screen on the 6p is calibrated very differently than most devises. I notice images look underexposed on my phone's screen but on a computer screen or another device they look fine. I have adaptive display on so it is dimming the screen making the image look darker than it really is.
Look at the histogram of the photos if you want to see the dynamic range and the actual exposure info. In low light my 6p is very good figuring out the exposure. The histogram is obviously on the darker side if I take a photo in low light but there isn't any clipping at all under reasonable low-light. In extreme situations, like a photo in the middle of the night with only one light source, then the shadows clip but they would with any camera. What is really impressive is the lack of noise!! Usually when you have full black on a cell phone pic you get a ton of noise but the 6p is pretty good at just letting it go black rather than trying to overexpose.
The dynamic range with the HDR on is really impressive. Even extreme contrast like indoor photos with a bright window in the background won't clip in the highlights.
I am having a blast testing the limits of this camera.
nonnasmyladie said:
With HDR off the shutter is crazy fast, pretty much instantaneous. I keep auto HDR on because the HDR on this phone creates truly amazing results. If your phone is shooting HDR there is a little bit of a lag when taking a photo but not terrible. I'll take the slight lag of the HDR because the increased image quality far outweighs it.
As for underexposing images, I don't think there is any issue there. Keep in mind that the screen on the 6p is calibrated very differently than most devises. I notice images look underexposed on my phone's screen but on a computer screen or another device they look fine. I have adaptive display on so it is dimming the screen making the image look darker than it really is.
Look at the histogram of the photos if you want to see the dynamic range and the actual exposure info. In low light my 6p is very good figuring out the exposure. The histogram is obviously on the darker side if I take a photo in low light but there isn't any clipping at all under reasonable low-light. In extreme situations, like a photo in the middle of the night with only one light source, then the shadows clip but they would with any camera. What is really impressive is the lack of noise!! Usually when you have full black on a cell phone pic you get a ton of noise but the 6p is pretty good at just letting it go black rather than trying to overexpose.
The dynamic range with the HDR on is really impressive. Even extreme contrast like indoor photos with a bright window in the background won't clip in the highlights.
I am having a blast testing the limits of this camera.
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Can you please explain to me the slowest shutter time of the nexus 6p with a third party app? Currently I have a Oneplus 2 and I can get up to 30 seconds which is a lot. My Oneplus 1 even had 60 seconds. Can I have these values with the nexus 6p or through a mod?
Thanks
Dear people from XDA,
My front facing camera records video's heavily zoomed in. Like my face fills the whole screen. This is while using the default camera app.
I do not have this problem when taking a picture with my front facing camera.
I have seen problems with snapchat and instagram, but I also have it with the default camera.
OnePlus support says i gotta clear cache, but that doesnt work. Now they tell me to do a factory reset.
I got the latest software update for the Oneplus 6T.
Any of you have this problem?
Edit: i cant post links so you can paste this screenshot in your browser with https:// in front of it. nl.tinypic.com/r/av0enk/9
Its probably to do with image stabilisation, it crops out the edges as that gives room to adjust for shaking. I could be wrong, but thats something I did for a dummy project before, I think its a pretty common practice thing
TheBishopOfSoho said:
Its probably to do with image stabilisation, it crops out the edges as that gives room to adjust for shaking. I could be wrong, but thats something I did for a dummy project before, I think its a pretty common practice thing
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This is the case when taking a picture, but not when recording. It doesnt work.
tsinnic said:
This is the case when taking a picture, but not when recording. It doesnt work.
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Like he said.. When it's in video mode, it appears to be zoomed in because it's cropping the edges as part of the electronic stabilization.*
I'm not a hundred percent certain on that being the explanation but I am pretty confident. That's just the way it works and I just open the app to be sure and there is no way to turn off this stabilization
I don't think it's as much about image stabilization as just aspect ratio. If you go into the selfie picture camera and change the aspect ratio from 4:3 to full screen, the image will be similarly zoomed in. As I understand it, the camera sensors are 4:3. To get 16:9 or 13:6 full screen images, it just basically crops the 4:3 image and stretches or zooms it to fit the desired size. Just like when you take an older 4:3 SD tv show and zoom to fill a widescreen tv.
I'm just speculating though, so I may be off base, but it makes sense. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong.
It is the electronic image stabilization. It crops the recorded area to leave room for the frame to move around, so that it can compensate for movement.
t2jbird said:
It is the electronic image stabilization. It crops the recorded area to leave room for the frame to move around, so that it can compensate for movement.
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Interesting. Thanks for clarifying.