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I really hope nokia fixes this.
"Despite what reviews say, this isn't only a problem with daytime shots. Nighttime shots suffer from this "soft" look too. The night shots are good at capturing lots of light, but still poor on the sharpening part.
It sucks because before taking a picture, when I push the camera button down to focus, the image in the screen looks BEAUTIFUL and very sharp/detailed. As soon as I take the picture, it completely changes the look and makes it very soft and takes away detail."
They are saying it will be a software fix. They meaning Nokia.
Sent from my RM-820_nam_att_100 using Board Express
I dont like it as well but you can easily fix it with the built in autofix in windows or just use nokia creative studio app.
The main thing though for me is although the phone takes amazing low light shots.. they are only good for static objects as if your subjects moves even a bit they will become blur because of the slow shutter speed..
I guess you cant have everything
To be honest I'm not seeing the problem when taking photos of objects near. I suspect that on landscapes f2.0 aperture creates a shallow depth of field and so things in the distance aren't sharp compared to cameras with a much smaller aperture.
This is physics at work, can't do much about that with a fixed aperture.
Sure you can, set the focal point on whatever the distance is to the landscape (in effect, "infinity" by photography definition). Now, if you try and photograph a scene with things at different distances, some of them will be out of focus and look soft, yes. That is absolutely a case of "physics at work". It may be that the camera is too eager to focus on something in the foreground - even something meaningless, like the ground at your feet - when trying to take landscape shots.
So, my problem is that my camera does not seem to focus an Objekt, even when I "touch " it in the camera app. It is still a bit blurry when I view the taken shot. When I look at my friends Nexus 4, colors are much better and everything is sharp. Is it possible that I have a broken camera? The settings are exactly the same...
It may be helpful to post some example shots.
1st thing to look for is to make sure that the glass covering the lens is clean. And shoot in good lighting.
Known problem, please star the issue http://code.google.com/p/android/issues/detail?id=43153&thanks=43153&ts=1359017856
AW: Bad camera focus
And the washed out colors? Max it be the fault of rev10 devices? A friend of mine said something like that
//edit
Here's a sample. If you zomm in you will see the Blurry borders. They are really annoying because when I look at the pic on a PC, I am able to notice it. Maybe it's the cameras fault or Googles fault for bad drivers and software.
http://db.tt/QSb8F0KE
Sent from my Nexus 4 using xda app-developers app
It seems to me like the hardware is perfectly capable of the focal lengths to get clear focus, it's just the autofocus implementation that's broken. Is autofocus a driver level implementation? If so, would it be feasible to try and create a custom driver to at least allow for true manual focus?
There are several things that can be going on here. 1.) it ain't a great lens, so not all areas of the picture are going to be razor sharp. I see a good degree of softness in the corners.
2.) I have noticed the camera's default behavior is to use lower ISO, and longer shutter speeds in less than ideal light, making camera movement a major factor in blurry photos. If you're gonna test under less than ideal light, rig up some kind of tripod.
3.) Auto-focus algorithms decide focus based on maximum contrast. If the area of your focus reticle is over an area that has poor contrast, focus will be compromised. Low light also lowers contrast.
4.) Depth of field. It is limited with this lens. Make sure areas you are checking for focus are on/near the same plane with shots that have reasonable distance separating foreground/background objects. They all can't be in focus.
With all that said, reasonable photography skills can get pretty reasonable results from this camera, as is exhibited in the photos posted in the photo thread of the "general" forum.
It does focus, but has a small delay tho..
actually the focus on N4 is slow a little bit ..
Is there any new piece of information about the bad camera focus?
anyone else have a pink haze when capturing white objects
I don't know anything about photographic. All I have done up to now is using the automatic mode. Well, you know, aim and shoot. But I would like exploit it more, as I have seen great photos from another topic. So can anyone give me little hints on how to adjust the default values in different conditions?
Also, about flash and HDR. When to use flash and when to use HDR? I know they're helpful in low light conditions, but photos with flash seems to be less realistic despite being brighter. On the other hand photos with HDR are easier to be out of shape if we would like to take quick photo (a moment in a party for instance).
Gửi từ Nexus 4 của tôi
Graphics Designer/Photographer here. Depending on what rom you have (stock or custom), you may have different camera options, so I'm going to go off the stock settings in the Nexus 4 camera.
Flash:
I typically leave flash off, sometimes I have it on if I know it's a dark place (indoors, parties, bad lighting). A lot of the times, the flash can create a white-ish haze, or even blow out details in photos. Flash can also produce a lot of glare on reflective surfaces which can be annoying and ruin a photo. If I can shoot a photo without the flash, I'll do so and touch it up later to improve it. Although sometimes just because you don't need the flash doesn't mean you shouldn't use it. Camera have a setting called "ISO" (You can't change this on our phone). Typically in a bright sunny environment, the ISO will be lower, causing a less grainy image. In darker scenes, the ISO automatically kicks up higher and adds grain to the image to help hold details which would otherwise be lost due to the low lighting. (This is also noticeable on old film cameras depending on the ISO speed of film you purchase, 100 being lowest, 400 being typical, 800+ being high grain)
Exposure:
If an image is too dark, flash on, or flash off, you can always try to turn the exposure up by +1, or +2. Same for if an image is a bit too bright, you can turn the exposure down. I use this a bit less on cell phone cameras since it feels a bit more fake than what you'd find on a real camera. It can be helpful though in bright/dark scenes. Play with it yourself to get the hang of it.
White Balance:
This mainly modifies how color is perceived by the camera when a photo is taken. Color temperature (in kelvins) can change how white looks under different lighting. A piece of white paper may look pure white when outdoors in the bright sun, while inside your lamp makes it seem creme/yellowish. Adjust the white balance to the proper lighting condition will better allow you to get more accurate colors in your photos. If you have a florescent light, switch the setting to that. If you have incandescent lighting indoors when trying to snap a photo, switch to that. On this mode, you're better off leaving it on automatic most of the time, but if you have time to make changes based upon the lighting conditions, do it.
HDR:
I wouldn't use this mode if you're trying to capture high speed motion or anything moving. It's best for still shots you know you can capture. HDR quickly takes 2 photos split seconds apart from one another. It adjusts the settings of the camera to capture the most detail in the darkest portions of the scene, and the brightest portions of the scene. Then it combines the photos into one image creating a scene you normally would not have been able to shoot without HDR. For example if I'm outside in a sunny day and I'm shooting a photo of some trees, the camera is going to adjust itself to capture the most detail and color from the trees. Because the sun is so bright, normally the camera would just blow out the sky and make it pure white, or extremely bright. With HDR on, it'll shoot a photo metering the color and values of the trees, then shoot another metering the color and values of the sky, then stitch them into one nice photo.)
I hope I helped some. I'm trying not to use too much photography terminology which might confuse people who aren't too familiar with manual photography.
Wow honestly I didn't expect such a detailed and useful reply. So basically if I'm in good light condition and no need to rush or something like that, HDR always produces better photos?
Gửi từ Nexus 4 của tôi
khanhtrinh said:
Wow honestly I didn't expect such a detailed and useful reply. So basically if I'm in good light condition and no need to rush or something like that, HDR always produces better photos?
Gửi từ Nexus 4 của tôi
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes but only if you have very steady hands
Rarscaryfrosty said:
Graphics Designer/Photographer here. Depending on what rom you have (stock or custom), you may have different camera options, so I'm going to go off the stock settings in the Nexus 4 camera.
Flash:
I typically leave flash off, sometimes I have it on if I know it's a dark place (indoors, parties, bad lighting). A lot of the times, the flash can create a white-ish haze, or even blow out details in photos. Flash can also produce a lot of glare on reflective surfaces which can be annoying and ruin a photo. If I can shoot a photo without the flash, I'll do so and touch it up later to improve it. Although sometimes just because you don't need the flash doesn't mean you shouldn't use it. Camera have a setting called "ISO" (You can't change this on our phone). Typically in a bright sunny environment, the ISO will be lower, causing a less grainy image. In darker scenes, the ISO automatically kicks up higher and adds grain to the image to help hold details which would otherwise be lost due to the low lighting. (This is also noticeable on old film cameras depending on the ISO speed of film you purchase, 100 being lowest, 400 being typical, 800+ being high grain)
Exposure:
If an image is too dark, flash on, or flash off, you can always try to turn the exposure up by +1, or +2. Same for if an image is a bit too bright, you can turn the exposure down. I use this a bit less on cell phone cameras since it feels a bit more fake than what you'd find on a real camera. It can be helpful though in bright/dark scenes. Play with it yourself to get the hang of it.
White Balance:
This mainly modifies how color is perceived by the camera when a photo is taken. Color temperature (in kelvins) can change how white looks under different lighting. A piece of white paper may look pure white when outdoors in the bright sun, while inside your lamp makes it seem creme/yellowish. Adjust the white balance to the proper lighting condition will better allow you to get more accurate colors in your photos. If you have a florescent light, switch the setting to that. If you have incandescent lighting indoors when trying to snap a photo, switch to that. On this mode, you're better off leaving it on automatic most of the time, but if you have time to make changes based upon the lighting conditions, do it.
HDR:
I wouldn't use this mode if you're trying to capture high speed motion or anything moving. It's best for still shots you know you can capture. HDR quickly takes 2 photos split seconds apart from one another. It adjusts the settings of the camera to capture the most detail in the darkest portions of the scene, and the brightest portions of the scene. Then it combines the photos into one image creating a scene you normally would not have been able to shoot without HDR. For example if I'm outside in a sunny day and I'm shooting a photo of some trees, the camera is going to adjust itself to capture the most detail and color from the trees. Because the sun is so bright, normally the camera would just blow out the sky and make it pure white, or extremely bright. With HDR on, it'll shoot a photo metering the color and values of the trees, then shoot another metering the color and values of the sky, then stitch them into one nice photo.)
I hope I helped some. I'm trying not to use too much photography terminology which might confuse people who aren't too familiar with manual photography.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That was quite a detailed explanation u gave there..
I didn't know abt the HDR. Thanx..
khanhtrinh said:
Wow honestly I didn't expect such a detailed and useful reply. So basically if I'm in good light condition and no need to rush or something like that, HDR always produces better photos?
Gửi từ Nexus 4 của tôi
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've found indoor museums to be good for HDR. Usually they're so dark except for specific areas where spot lights are shining down upon. If you shoot a normal photo, you'll have a lot of dark spots which hold no detail. With HDR, you'll pick up some detail in those darker areas, though they'll still be a bit dark.
What I'm wondering is how is it that I can remove some of the blue when taking photos on non HDR photos. It always seem to come out bluish
afbengochea said:
What I'm wondering is how is it that I can remove some of the blue when taking photos on non HDR photos. It always seem to come out bluish
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Click to collapse
I have noticed the same issue. This is really my only complaint with the N4 camera.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using xda app-developers app
HDR takes way too long to capture.......anything that can be done about that?
Sent from my Nexus 4
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Devices:
LG Google Nexus 4 16 GB
Samsung Google Nexus 10 32 GB
Sony Ericsson Xperia Mini ST15i (Retired * Sold)
Nokia C7 (Sold)
HTC TyTn II (Sold)
Motorola RAZR v3 (broken)
Sony Ericsson W705 (broken)
------------------------------------
Lower the picture size
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
I find the camera takes darker pictures, especially in low light, compared to Note 5 (underexposed perhaps? Not a photography buff at all . Also, the snapping pictures in general seems to be slower vs. Note 5.
Any suggestions?
I currently have both 6p and Note 5 and truly find the Note 5 to have an all-around better camera. 6p but bad by any means, but tough comparing to Note 5.
Been comparing to a friend's note 5.
The note seems to overexpose a tad in lower light.
6p seems like it's a tad darker around the edges, but for the most part is a better match to what the eye sees.
Hdr+ balances everything out, and should be used whenever possible - like always.
It works wonders. This coming from an amateur photographer, well, I have been paid for my work, but I still consider myself an amateur - even after 35+ years of playing with cameras.
Phazmos said:
Been comparing to a friend's note 5.
The note seems to overexpose a tad in lower light.
6p seems like it's a tad darker around the edges, but for the most part is a better match to what the eye sees.
Hdr+ balances everything out, and should be used whenever possible - like always.
It works wonders. This coming from an amateur photographer, well, I have been paid for my work, but I still consider myself an amateur - even after 35+ years of playing with cameras.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Agree with your assessment. Note 5 can tend to overexpose slightly in low light but overall I find Note 5 pics to be a bit clearer in low light. Even with hdr auto on both. Also agree the 6p tends to be darker around the edges. Biggest concern I have with 6p is length of time to focus/snap picture. Seems far longer than Note 5...
lp1527 said:
Agree with your assessment. Note 5 can tend to overexpose slightly in low light but overall I find Note 5 pics to be a bit clearer in low light. Even with hdr auto on both. Also agree the 6p tends to be darker around the edges. Biggest concern I have with 6p is length of time to focus/snap picture. Seems far longer than Note 5...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Only been playing with the new 6p for a couple days, but so far it seems pretty instantaneous.
Point, click, there's a picture - and in focus.
Been very very happy with the camera so far.
With HDR off the shutter is crazy fast, pretty much instantaneous. I keep auto HDR on because the HDR on this phone creates truly amazing results. If your phone is shooting HDR there is a little bit of a lag when taking a photo but not terrible. I'll take the slight lag of the HDR because the increased image quality far outweighs it.
As for underexposing images, I don't think there is any issue there. Keep in mind that the screen on the 6p is calibrated very differently than most devises. I notice images look underexposed on my phone's screen but on a computer screen or another device they look fine. I have adaptive display on so it is dimming the screen making the image look darker than it really is.
Look at the histogram of the photos if you want to see the dynamic range and the actual exposure info. In low light my 6p is very good figuring out the exposure. The histogram is obviously on the darker side if I take a photo in low light but there isn't any clipping at all under reasonable low-light. In extreme situations, like a photo in the middle of the night with only one light source, then the shadows clip but they would with any camera. What is really impressive is the lack of noise!! Usually when you have full black on a cell phone pic you get a ton of noise but the 6p is pretty good at just letting it go black rather than trying to overexpose.
The dynamic range with the HDR on is really impressive. Even extreme contrast like indoor photos with a bright window in the background won't clip in the highlights.
I am having a blast testing the limits of this camera.
nonnasmyladie said:
With HDR off the shutter is crazy fast, pretty much instantaneous. I keep auto HDR on because the HDR on this phone creates truly amazing results. If your phone is shooting HDR there is a little bit of a lag when taking a photo but not terrible. I'll take the slight lag of the HDR because the increased image quality far outweighs it.
As for underexposing images, I don't think there is any issue there. Keep in mind that the screen on the 6p is calibrated very differently than most devises. I notice images look underexposed on my phone's screen but on a computer screen or another device they look fine. I have adaptive display on so it is dimming the screen making the image look darker than it really is.
Look at the histogram of the photos if you want to see the dynamic range and the actual exposure info. In low light my 6p is very good figuring out the exposure. The histogram is obviously on the darker side if I take a photo in low light but there isn't any clipping at all under reasonable low-light. In extreme situations, like a photo in the middle of the night with only one light source, then the shadows clip but they would with any camera. What is really impressive is the lack of noise!! Usually when you have full black on a cell phone pic you get a ton of noise but the 6p is pretty good at just letting it go black rather than trying to overexpose.
The dynamic range with the HDR on is really impressive. Even extreme contrast like indoor photos with a bright window in the background won't clip in the highlights.
I am having a blast testing the limits of this camera.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you please explain to me the slowest shutter time of the nexus 6p with a third party app? Currently I have a Oneplus 2 and I can get up to 30 seconds which is a lot. My Oneplus 1 even had 60 seconds. Can I have these values with the nexus 6p or through a mod?
Thanks
Hi Everyone,
Have a look at attached example image to see what I mean.
Please try to take a manual shot with your wide lens in a very dark environment with very high ISO (3200 in example) and exposure time of 5secs plus (20 secs in example).
Everyone who has tried that so far has the same issue, a big purple shadow on the top. It's most likely the laser and it won't happen with the normal lense.
Do you have the same result? Any suggestions what we can do about it?
Whoa! I haven't seen that in a long time. I think maybe around the time of the Nikon D80. I can't currently try this out personally but by the sounds of it what has happened is called Amp Glow. It's when you kind of start getting out of the bounds of what is really acceptable shooting conditions for a given sensor. In this case, if you really are shooting in conditions that call for high ISO AND still need a shutter speed of 20 seconds and the image still comes out that dark, then you're way beyond realistic expectations for shooting with a cellphone. In the older DSLRs, people would see it when doing star trail photos that were 10 minutes or longer. Frame stacking software became the solution to this problem by taking a lot of shorter photos and stacking them up and pulling through the new dots of light. (And this is still used by a lot of photographers as it also gets rid of other forms of noise.)
So what is happening? ISO is pretty much the gain. It's the amplification being applied to the signal coming off of the sensor. Ideally with ANY camera, you want to stay as close to the base ISO of a given sensor. That's usually the lowest ISO number. (There are some exceptions where some camera manufacturers have done some trickery to get a lower ISO to show up but that was short lived as it didn't really help things.) Unfortunately, image sensors are not hanging in space. They're packed in with a ton of other stuff. Stuff that gets warm. If that stuff is near an edge of the sensor, that heat bleeds into the sensor and then those warmed pixels get amplified by the higher ISO and next thing you know, Amp Glow. Well, that's the simplified version at least.
A cellphone, any cellphone, is not designed for those kinds of shots. If they were, they would have a tripod mount, a much better flash, and a much larger sensor. (Yeah, the flash on your cellphone is not meant to light up stuff much past 5 feet. Even the ones built into a DSLR aren't meant for much past about 15-20 feet.) The reality is that cellphones are designed for handheld shots with decent light. Even the larger sensor used in some cellphones shouldn't be expected to pull any miracles that top end DSLRs are just barely pulling off cleanly. For that shot, you would want to use a dedicated camera locked down on a tripod using base ISO and long exposure at the very least. Although, personally, I'd probably just take a pass on that shot.
someone on reddit has the exam same issue with the wide angle. and someone said it's in the regular too. weird. my s7 never had this purple hue when I did even 30 second exposure at night.
Sent from my LG V20 US996
something obstructing the lens maybe, or just camera went bad
Better hope this isn't the same problem the HTC one m7 had with the purple haze. The culprit was a light sensor on the camera would overhear and give a purple haze on the screen in low light. Place the phone face down and with the camera on and see if the purple comes back.
Sent from my LG-H910 using Tapatalk
Dark Jedi said:
Better hope this isn't the same problem the HTC one m7 had with the purple haze. The culprit was a light sensor on the camera would overhear and give a purple haze on the screen in low light. Place the phone face down and with the camera on and see if the purple comes back.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, it won't happen with the same ISO/Shutter settings I took the previously attached photo. But maybe that's because it's not dark enough. Did the M7 issue only happen in dark enviornment as well?
CHH2 said:
Whoa! I haven't seen that in a long time. I think maybe around the time of the Nikon D80. I can't currently try this out personally but by the sounds of it what has happened is called Amp Glow. It's when you kind of start getting out of the bounds of what is really acceptable shooting conditions for a given sensor. In this case, if you really are shooting in conditions that call for high ISO AND still need a shutter speed of 20 seconds and the image still comes out that dark, then you're way beyond realistic expectations for shooting with a cellphone. In the older DSLRs, people would see it when doing star trail photos that were 10 minutes or longer. Frame stacking software became the solution to this problem by taking a lot of shorter photos and stacking them up and pulling through the new dots of light. (And this is still used by a lot of photographers as it also gets rid of other forms of noise.)
So what is happening? ISO is pretty much the gain. It's the amplification being applied to the signal coming off of the sensor. Ideally with ANY camera, you want to stay as close to the base ISO of a given sensor. That's usually the lowest ISO number. (There are some exceptions where some camera manufacturers have done some trickery to get a lower ISO to show up but that was short lived as it didn't really help things.) Unfortunately, image sensors are not hanging in space. They're packed in with a ton of other stuff. Stuff that gets warm. If that stuff is near an edge of the sensor, that heat bleeds into the sensor and then those warmed pixels get amplified by the higher ISO and next thing you know, Amp Glow. Well, that's the simplified version at least.
A cellphone, any cellphone, is not designed for those kinds of shots. If they were, they would have a tripod mount, a much better flash, and a much larger sensor. (Yeah, the flash on your cellphone is not meant to light up stuff much past 5 feet. Even the ones built into a DSLR aren't meant for much past about 15-20 feet.) The reality is that cellphones are designed for handheld shots with decent light. Even the larger sensor used in some cellphones shouldn't be expected to pull any miracles that top end DSLRs are just barely pulling off cleanly. For that shot, you would want to use a dedicated camera locked down on a tripod using base ISO and long exposure at the very least. Although, personally, I'd probably just take a pass on that shot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks a lot for the detailed explanation. My question here would be, why doesn't it happen to other phone-cameras with similar settings?
Kujoja said:
No, it won't happen with the same ISO/Shutter settings I took the previously attached photo. But maybe that's because it's not dark enough. Did the M7 issue only happen in dark enviornment as well?
Thanks a lot for the detailed explanation. My question here would be, why doesn't it happen to other phone-cameras with similar settings?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes the m7 only happened in low light / dark environment. Do a Google search for HTC one m7 purple haze. What caused me not to buy another htc phone
Sent from my LG-H910 using Tapatalk
Kujoja said:
No, it won't happen with the same ISO/Shutter settings I took the previously attached photo. But maybe that's because it's not dark enough. Did the M7 issue only happen in dark enviornment as well?
Thanks a lot for the detailed explanation. My question here would be, why doesn't it happen to other phone-cameras with similar settings?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Settings aren't the only part of the equation. The other par is the placement of other components within the device. I need to look at the tear downs to see how the various parts are placed next to each other but something is heating up and passing that heat to the sensor. Just off the top of my head there are four parts together; the two camera sensors, the laser focus module, and the flask module. Each one of those on its own will generate heat if used enough.
Dark Jedi said:
Yes the m7 only happened in low light / dark environment. Do a Google search for HTC one m7 purple haze. What caused me not to buy another htc phone
Sent from my LG-H910 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's the same issue. I haven't looked at the HTC issue but from your description of it, it's the same. Amp glow is what it is called in digital photography. (OK, silly that I said digital as you don't get amp glow in film.) The glow will show up because there is no other data coming off of the sensor for those pixels and the heat is amplified as "data".
---------- Post added at 05:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:59 PM ----------
Ok, just watched the JerryRigEverything repair tear down. The flash module sits right next to the wide angle and the laser focus next to the regular sensor. There is no mention as to what is sitting next to the sensors on the main board but I see silver boxes on each side with one having some sort of black and yellow warning sticker. Not sure what they are so I can't rope them in as culprits. So for now, I'd say it's a combo of the four units of the camera assembly.
Were you running the flash or one of the cameras a lot while you were playing around? Shooting a lot of long exposure shots in a row?
I'll get to test out some night shots and video tonight at a lighting ceremony but I'm still not expecting to shoot 3200 for 20 seconds type shots. Again, that's pretty extreme.