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I have an XDA Neo whose soft buttons haven't been working for quite a while and I cannot find a right moment to send it for repair. But I suspect it's the dust that has made its way beneath
But the bolts are so strange, I cannot unscrew them with anything - screwdrivers, knives I tried - nothing helps
Any suggestions?
this is easy you need a torx 6 screwdriver good luck
10x a lot
Look no further..
http://www.modaco.com/Changing-you-prophet-caseand33-t240109.html
Attention to side plugs...
Yes that's torx 6. It's rare but available in some stores.
But it's not over. There are some steps which need special care. Otherwise you may break some fragile parts of the body. I dismentled 2 times completely but i broke some plastic ears on the sides and the screws are not enough to come back to a tight fixing. Some spaces remian on the sides if you break the small ears while disassembling.
The steps, roughly:
1- Pull out battery, sim card.
2- Unplug upper rear cover (not necessary to unplg the antenna cover) starting from top, then bottom. Pushing 2 ears at left and righ side of the bottom is enough.
3- Unscrew 4 x torx6
4- Pull out front frame by unplugging side ears surrounding the whole frame but PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO KEEPING THE EARS UNDAMAGED. The frame is still connected to the board and the speaker. So separate it slightly, not too much.
5- Unplug the speaker unit by pushing its caoutchouc frame and slide it through the hole to free the rear frame. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DISCONNECT THE SPEAKER SOCKET. IT'S DANGEROUS AND NOT NECESSARY.
6- Pull out the camera. Its body is not fixed but only pushed into its frame. Pay attention while disconnecting its cable.
7- Unplug the keypad socket by pushing upside from sides. It's fragile but not too difficult.
8- Unscrew 4 little screws. One may be masked by a spacer. You can push it the access the screw.
9- Unplug the AC connector if necessary. Not screwed. So, you can get manually.
10-Pull out the keypad towards the rear of the phone. It will not come very easyly. Find the right angle. It's not necessary to pull out the white cover but you can do this if you want.
I write this using what i remember. I may forgot some small details but the order should be correct.
Finally don't use battery screwdrivers on a/m screws. The torque will be too strong and may destroy the plastic holes. You can unscrew but don't screw.
Thanks a lot man. I know it's dangerous, so want to be extremely careful. But some people told me that doing this can break my warranty because some of some manufacturer sticker being damaged. Is that true?
Yes, Warranty Voids If Dismantled
Yes indeed. One of 4 torx screws is covered by a warranty label. You have to destroy it to unscrew.
I did it because i never trust warranty issues on PDAs, at least in my country. Mine was fallen on its upper left corner and the body has taken a good crash make-up! It's 100% sure that u have no warranty because of user fault.
So, i dismantled and tried to repair the cover like a garage man works on a crushed car. Result: Not bad. Better than nothing. Some painting has gone. I add a silicon case on the device and everybody's happy.
Hi. Can anyone help me identify where a part comes from? I took apart my Prophet because of the amount of dust it in and the very irregular digitiser calibration. This is much better but I seem to have a piece left over and I don't know where it should go. I think it must be something to do with the phone antenna as I have very poor telephone reception since.
can u post a pic of the top end of the circle? can't really make out what it is. didn't have this problem when i opened my case
Hi, thanks for taking an interest. Here's another couple of shots.
Richard
i'm kinda guessing that it's the external antenna? u know the 1 with the rubber circle at the back of the pda? can't seem to find my tools atm to see what it actually is...
Yes, I am sure you are right - I will get my tools out and have another play with it. I may find an obvious place where the antenna goes which will fit the part in.
Well I feel pretty silly now. I took the Prophet apart and realised that this part was just a mount which the long screws screw into. One mount had come loose so I superglued it in and the screw firmly screws in now, making the whole device hold together better.
part
Richard Fantom said:
Hi, thanks for taking an interest. Here's another couple of shots.
Richard
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i think that part is below the antenna cap
Richard Fantom said:
Well I feel pretty silly now. I took the Prophet apart and realised that this part was just a mount which the long screws screw into. One mount had come loose so I superglued it in and the screw firmly screws in now, making the whole device hold together better.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hahahah... well, it did look like the ext antenna part to my eyes... heheheh glad you know what it is now
I have in front of me a perfectly fine HTC HD2, but the digitizer is cracked and not responding.
I ordered a TMOUS HD2 digitizer replacement, and am waiting for my T5 torx screw to come.
Beside these things, I heard that I'll also need 2mm 3M double-sided tape.
Is it possible to reuse the ones that are currently holding the cracked digitizer?
Or should I start hunting for some of those tape?
I used 4 drops of superglue when I replaced mine...
I used crazy glue but it left white residue. I cracked digitizer again so this time I will use 2mm tape, not crazy glue. I also used regular 3M tapes 1/2" wide but I had to trim it. It's a pain in the ass but doable. Now, I will buy 2mm tape instead.
Has someone a link?
Today i reopened my phone because using the old pieces of tape wasnt holding enough, so the screen was a bit over the housing.
Now i used thin tape (noname) and had to cut it myself, what really is a pain in the ass. THe problem is, that with cutting and then fingering this togehter my screen not is very stable but still to high.
If i order tape now i want to buy the right one!!!
Has someone a link or article number? Dont want to buy just a 3m 2mm tape that is to thik or something...
So 1mm or 2mm?
Is there a difference in hight?
I got this:
http://cgi.ebay.ca/3M-2mm-ADHESIVE-...280211?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item255d9bc793
Thank you!
What did you use it for? Only the display and touchscreen or did you glue the display to the housing and the part unter the buttons with this too?
After opening it twice i think i need:
-Display with touchscreen
-Display in housing
-The parts of the touchscreen that stands over the display ( buttons and lightsensor) , to the housing..
Do you know a more exactly name for the Tape?
Someone wort about LSE300 but this is only the category name ;D
But anyways thank you for the seller, the tape was good for yoU?
How did you guys remove/plan to remove the glass from the LCD?
Sent from my HTC HD2 using XDA App
Just warm it and with a razor(razer? you know the sharp flat knives ;D) you cut along the edges.
Just make sure you move the razor parallel between the touchscreen and display, so you dont break or scratch the screen.
For heating up, you can take a hair dryer or put it in the oven for 5-10min. I think 50°C(a bit longer to heat all trough) . More temperature shouldnt be a problem, sun on black surfaces often gets ~80°C but dont risk it, and you need to touch it to remove the screen
------
For the soldering version a little hint:
The cable on the new touchscreen can be soldered from top and downside.
You dont need to solder on top the little overhang, just put a bit soldering tin between, then cable on top and let the heat go trough the cable to heat the tin on the underside=> more space and all the way conected.
There is a little round mark to alighn the new cable. Use this, or the chip on the cable will not fit unter the hole in the housing ;D
If its hard to solder just put a bit soldering tin on the display first. Then put the cable above and press the soldering iron on top. The soldering tin you put between will connect them perfectly. Use a tool to press the cable on the display untill the soldering tin is hard.
The secret of basic soldering skills is not to move after you take away the soldering iron until the tin is hard, every movement in these seconds makes the soldering spot weak or its not connected right.
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Wow that's quite interesting. I broke another hd2 a while ago, and its just laying around. Screen works well, I just hated the cracks. I may try this out...
Edit : if someone could make a video tutorial, that would be sweet. The one online isn't so great
Sent from my HTC HD2 using XDA App
I haven't used it yet, because I bought it last week and they're still shipping it to me.
I'm going to be using it to replace the tape between the old digitizer and the LCD.
I thought the display-to-housing tape was padded, wasn't it?
dertester123 said:
Thank you!
What did you use it for? Only the display and touchscreen or did you glue the display to the housing and the part unter the buttons with this too?
After opening it twice i think i need:
-Display with touchscreen
-Display in housing
-The parts of the touchscreen that stands over the display ( buttons and lightsensor) , to the housing..
Do you know a more exactly name for the Tape?
Someone wort about LSE300 but this is only the category name ;D
But anyways thank you for the seller, the tape was good for yoU?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, there are many kinds of different tapes. Thin, padded, metalic and some seemed to be more like glue dots.
But i dont think its so important do rebuild this exactly
Starting from 5:00 he seperates Display and Touchscreen ;D
But the guy soldered from top, you can actually see it at 7:40, i think its better to solder between display and cable, as i tried to describe above..
That lucky guy was able to reuse the whole tape as it was, but im not sure if it is still so good, even if it is one piece.
When my tape comes, i will eventually make a little screen replacement video ;D
But my camera is not very good at close-ups, but i try ;D
Hi,
I disassembled my N1 for changing the main flex cable (cutted power button) and in the disassembling procedure I noticed that one of the SMD components on the motherboard was de-soldered or not correctly soldered (twisted). I re-accommodated with a pair of tweezers and it did not hang loose (yet!).
What kind of function does this SMD do? Can I expect the phone to work?
I have experience with soldering iron but think this is too small for me.
I can't test it right now because my new main flex has not arrived yet.
Maybe you can solder it with an oven for CMS ?
firewave said:
Maybe you can solder it with an oven for CMS ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not very familiar with oven soldering; dunno if I will kill other components or If i need some kind of flux.
Also a heat gun would do the work but probably desolder other components.
I broke off a couple of the smd components right next to that connector (the screen connection) they effect color on the screen. Mine showed only red after I broke 2. It was usable but not pretty.
Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk
_Dennis_ said:
I broke off a couple of the smd components right next to that connector (the screen connection) they effect color on the screen. Mine showed only red after I broke 2. It was usable but not pretty.
Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your answer.
You broke those very same components?
As soon as I get my main flex i will try it and see if it report problems. It probably will as that component is there for something.
You might be able to re-flow it with a heat gun.
Rusty! said:
You might be able to re-flow it with a heat gun.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your answer.
Actually I'm looking for a chinese reflow station with a hot air gun with a tiny nozzle. Probably will do the work but...
Should I use some kind of flux? Any recommendations? Never done a hot air reflow.
Looks like the same but hard to tell in the pics. I can't really see on my phone.
Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk
that is a set of inline resistors, meaning it is quite a few connections, the best way is to use some flux from a needle and a soldering iron with a small tip,you could use a hot air machine but on a fully assembled board i would not recommend it.. flux is needed but you may be able to get away with a large soldering iron.
My advice would be to pay someone to fix it.. that way if they mess up ya get a new phone
Find someone with a reflow air knife, anyone who does SMT work would have one. It'd take 5 seconds to put that RP back on as long as you didn't break any of the pads doing whatever it is that you did that caused you to break it. Yikes.
May i ask you where u got the power cable? I need one too, how much was it? And is it hard to replace?
N1
I bought it on www.aliexpress.com
It was around USD$45.
I still don't receive it, as soon as I recive it I will report if the phone works and if it is an easy repair.
Best Regards.
The phone it's not turning on.
I tried it disassembled with the new main flex cable, motherboard and only lcd conencted.
Nothing happened when I press the power button.
The only sign of life is the ambar led that turns on when you connect the charger.
The tiny little SMD part fell off the mother board so it is completly unsoldered. Could this be the cause of not turning at all?
Looking forward to your answers.
Yes, if a single component is missing or even has a bridge in the solder, it could cause complete failure. There is a reason for it being there. If it were me, I would try to resolder it. Grab an iron and some wick and get what you can off of the board. Then try to reflow the part back on. If it works, great. If not, you still have a nice looking paperweight.
Well, I soldered the little SMD back with a soldering/hot air station but the motherboard still don't turn on.
It was working before, maybe I'm doing something wrong.
Thanks for your support.
I'm trying to mount a powermat inside a Galaxy S2 phone to allow wireless charging.
Unfortunately the logic circuit of the S2 insists that the charging of the S2 is routed via the USB connector else the charging isn't detected leading to potential overcharge situations.
Therefore I'm looking for the smallest Micro USB connector available (height wise) that I can wire the powermat wires to. I'd prefer the Micro USB connector to come with a rubberised cover as I use the Case Mate Tough cases for the phone so a connector that was almost flush with that case and also rubberised would be perfect.
I'm in the UK so UK sourcing would be preferable but all suggestions appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Anyone have any ideas?
You can look at buying some just raw connectors like
http://www.newark.com/fci/10104109-...ce-mount/dp/82R7423?in_merch=Popular Products
Or do some research and find some other ones with different mounting options. The thing is it is hard to get much smaller.
http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/br...etricAttributeId=&prevNValues=422+2203+202174
Can't you wire it from the inside? By soldering directly to the pins of mUSB connector on the mainboard?
I hadn't thought of that....not sure my soldering skills are good enough either given how small the components we'd be dealing with here.
That is an option but if you don't have the tools I wouldn't mess with it. Those boards are dense and unless you have a fine enough tip it is going to be hard to make a good connection.
pinsb said:
I hadn't thought of that....not sure my soldering skills are good enough either given how small the components we'd be dealing with here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well I can tell you from experience that they are small. ~0.25mm. Look at a how big a mm is on a ruler and cut that into 1/42 and that's what you are looking to solder to. You would need some fine wire that is shielded so it doesn't short and it requires some solid soldering skills.
I used to do this for a living. You could call up some local jewelers or repair shops and see if they have a laser welder. Ask them if they do custom work. Though it would have to be a relatively big place though, as those machines runs thousands of dollars. I worked for Jostens.
Hi pinsb,
Did you ever find anything? I am looking for the same thing for a slightly different purpose. I want to put a usb circuit inside an enclosure with the phone and don't want to have the connector sticking out the side.
I will be using this thread to track my upgrade of the amplifier chip on the Intel Sofia based Joying units.
I chose the Pioneer PA2030A but apparently you can also use the TDA7850 chip.
To quote @kampfschachtel:
If your speakers are 4 ohm I would use the Pioneer as it has more power at 4 ohm, if you have 2 ohm speakers (like eg a lot of the BMW ones) then the TDA7850 is your choice. Be aware you get orginals as they are lot low quality clones on the market.
Joying radio and new Pioneer PA2030A chip
You can see in the back where the amp chip is anchored in the metal frame with two screws. The metal frame provides some cooling.
First step: take unit apart using the 2 screws - 1 on each side. At this step, say goodbye to your warranty!
1 more screws on the back and then you can take the top cover off
Behold! The internals!
Slide up the 2 USB cables from the frame and carefully disconnect the single USB cable from the board, the ribbon cable from the motherboard (which takes video and touch input to the screen) and then on the back, unscrew the GPS antenna from the frame. The other bundle of mic, radio antenna and USB cable just keep as is, as it's more work to untangle the wires.
NOTE! The ribbon cable uses a slide-lock to keep the cable in. Carefully pull the brown slider back and then remove the ribbon from the slot. Don't force it or you may damage it and will need to get a new ribbon.
Your can see the cables that were removed.
Next remove the following 4 screws and also the smaller 2 screws holding the amp chip to the frame
You can see the metal bracket that holds the amp chip falls off. Notice in the back, that the amp chip is held to the frame with some thermal paste. We'll need some more of that later when the chip is replaced.
Remove 2 more bolts that hold the motherboard - on the corners. 1 you can see where my screwdriver is resting.
Carefully pry out the board from the case.
You can see the chip we'll replace and the solders in the back that we'll have to work with.
NOTE: interesting marking on the board - PX3-MAIN. Other folks might know more on this, but did they re-use the main host board from their other stereos with minor modifications? Looks like it.
Next step - warm up the solder gun!
Time to go find my solder gun... dammit! Where did I put it? Haha!
You're going to want to pay attention to how high the chip sits on the board as the new one will have to be at a similar height to bolt back to the metal frame.
---removed---
Another side note... It looks like the SD card reader board has space for another SD card reader slot. If one wants dual SD card, maybe another soldering project down the line? The metal frame is also pre-cut for the second slot so it would be an easy project!
Making slow progress on removing the chip. A nice solder sucker would be great right now!
It looks easy, but that soldering looks the most difficult part of the job, how can you loose it with so many pins on the board, and i suppose you can do that by every chinese android radio?
Flemischguy said:
It looks easy, but that soldering looks the most difficult part of the job, how can you loose it with so many pins on the board, and i suppose you can do that by every chinese android radio?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You take your time Slowly heat up pins and you go around to each pin... over and over again.
bogdi1988 said:
You take your time Slowly heat up pins and you go around to each pin... over and over again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you use a classic soldering on electric? I think that i would use a soldering on gas, which is instantly hot and blow hot air over the pins (and faster)
Just a thought
So I got the chip soldered. Ran a quick test and got audio, but the channels are all over the place. Gotta trace all my solders to make sure I didn't mess up anything.
Flemischguy said:
Do you use a classic soldering on electric? I think that i would use a soldering on gas, which is instantly hot and blow hot air over the pins (and faster)
Just a thought
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea, I did use a classic one.
I might have to re-do all solders.
Well, until I figure out my solder stuff... feedback on what I was able to test as it was.
Audio was significantly more powerful! Quite a difference! I'll spend some more time on this over the next couple days.
It is a tricky mod, but worth it!
I think my chip might be faulty so I got a new one coming in next week. I'll update this post next week when I get it