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Hi all,
my Ameo has the following problem:
When leaving the device in the car without AirCo running (eg customer visit) it gets warmer than usually....
When I'm back and trying to phone with the Ameo it is loosing the connection. This takes some time until AirCo was cooling down the car (and the Ameo). Afterwards its is running normally.
Who knows about that ?
Dieter
imho thats a normal reaction and this could also happen to any other electric device when getting too hot.
why don't you take it with you ?
hi mojo,
but there is a little difference between warm and too hot ;-)
I'd say warm with approx. 35-40° - too hot means in my eyes 50° and more...
Dieter
60C is the maximum Dopod says the battery can handle. But it doesn't mean you will get optimal operation from the device. It will overheat and fail.
(This happens to all electronic equipment and it is up the each individual to protect it properly.)
With the temperature reaching 60C the battery will discharge at approximately double speed, and also shorten the lifespan of the device by about 50%.
They strongly suggest that you never operate the device in higher temperatures than 45C for any prolonged time.
Do not leave the device exposed to direct sunlight inside a car, on a table at home etc. It will overheat and potentially fail.
You wouldn't leave your children or your pet in the car when it's that hot. So why do you leave the PocketPC in there? Even the thought of doing this gives me headaches.
Mine actually fails to take a charge when it is just sitting in the cradle doing TomTom stuff whilst I drive with aircon on but I am in Spain and the sunlight though the screen does make it very hot. I am having to reposition it or try to duct some aircon to it. It is slightly more sensitive to heat than my previous ones, but it also does MUCH MUCH more so like me, in future, try to protect it
i was using my phone for google maps yesterday and it was pretty hot.
the phone of course got even hotter since the screen was on and gps on and loading maps constantly
not burning hot but it could definitely use a fan.
i tried to locate some kind of heat dissipating tape or something similar to our silicone covers to put on the back of the phone
the only 2 things i can think of is copper tape, some kind of textured or wrinkle finish film as well.
fuzzysig said:
i was using my phone for google maps yesterday and it was pretty hot.
the phone of course got even hotter since the screen was on and gps on and loading maps constantly
not burning hot but it could definitely use a fan.
i tried to locate some kind of heat dissipating tape or something similar to our silicone covers to put on the back of the phone
the only 2 things i can think of is copper tape, some kind of textured or wrinkle finish film as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is there a windows mobile application that tells you the battery temperature?
I have a Nexus One as well and there is an Android App called battery indicator that will show you the temperature of the battery so that you don't overheat it and degrade your battery life.
Dunno if you can do this on Windows Mobile turn by turn directions yet, but when I am using the GPS on my Android Nexus One I usually turn off the screen since it still says the directions even while the screen is off. If I have to have the screen on (in case I'm on compact city streets with quick turns) I always make sure to hold the phone close to the air conditioning vent every 7-10 minutes or so to make sure the phone doesn't overheat. GPS + Screen on is a hot, Hot, HOT combination
ap3604 said:
Is there a windows mobile application that tells you the battery temperature?
I have a Nexus One as well and there is an Android App called battery indicator that will show you the temperature of the battery so that you don't overheat it and degrade your battery life.
Dunno if you can do this on Windows Mobile turn by turn directions yet, but when I am using the GPS on my Android Nexus One I usually turn off the screen since it still says the directions even while the screen is off. If I have to have the screen on (in case I'm on compact city streets with quick turns) I always make sure to hold the phone close to the air conditioning vent every 7-10 minutes or so to make sure the phone doesn't overheat. GPS + Screen on is a hot, Hot, HOT combination
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
WMWifiRouter shows the temperature of the battery, not sure about any others though.
Install BattClock form Zuinige Rijder, configure and You can monitor batt temp nicely.
Now in summer at temps over 30°C the HD2 gets really hot when on the car dashboard navigating.
At approx. 43°C it stops loading when in a loading cradle in the car (LED flashing orange) and very often freezes then.
Last time - after freeze - I took out batt and it was damn hot, reinserted, started HD2, temp showing 63 °C (!!!!!!!!!!), after some minutes froze again at temp 65°C
Contacted HTC-support on this issue, just sent me an advice for repair service, no explanation why this was not taken into account during development since it´s not a faulty device but a general misconstruction.
Works nicely when ambient temp below 20°C or cloudy sky.
don't all computers shut down at a certain temp???
Why would our smartphones be any different?
I dont have any issue's with my battery getting hot at all, running android though the processor gets pretty warm...
Hey people,
I have a rather complicated question on which I like some kind of clarification or even a solution.
Some information about my car:
Chevrolet Aveo5 2010 model T250
The manual says it needs a 430CCA battery
I had a Xtrons te706pl px5 head unit installed in my car last summer. It worked great and always got out of the standby mode when starting the car.
Then when it got to the of September/start of october. It started cold booting for some reason.
I didn't think anything of it and thought it was a software related issue. So I bought a small subwoofer
(Kenwood ksc sw11). I then went back to the shop where I got it installed and they updated the unit to the latest Android 9 update at the time (this was mid November). And tested the car battery. Which showed to only have 330 CCA left. They told me that my battery was probably the reason it rebooted all the time. Since that sounded reasonably to me since the manual says I need 430CCA I bought a new battery last week. A 400A (EN) Bosch S3 003.
This actually changed did kind of fix the problem but I'm not sure.
If I drive and then leave my car for a short time and come back the radio will get out of standby fine.
(Which didn't happen with the old battery. That one would restart the radio if I only left my car for like 5-10 minutes)
However when I leave if for like an entire day or over night the radio still reboots.
Sleep setting is set to Auto btw.
I also tested this while disconnecting the subwoofer over night and it still rebooted. So it's not like the subwoofer is the difference.
I have multiple theories and I want to know which one is correct.
1.
The radio is software is broken which causes my radio to not stay in standby for longer than X amount of time even tho the sleep setting is set to Auto.
2.
The cars alternator is broken causing it to not deliver the constant 12v the radio needs.
3. (Which I think is the most plausible)
The car battery doesn't deliver enough Amps on ignition to turn of the engine as well as the radio. Basically cutting of the radio's energy causing it to dip below 10v and causing it to lose power.
The reason that in the summer the radio did turn on with a worse battery might be because the hot temps cause the car to need less Power to start which in turn means the radio isn't cut off of power. (This could explain why the old battery was able to start the radio out of standby modus with in between 330 and 430CCA.
If theory 3 is true then I would need a bigger battery so that even in the colder winter (-3 to 10 degrees Celsius) my radio still boots out of standby. In that case how much CCA and Ah do I need. Since I have a problem because of the ****ty nature of my car where the plus pole needs to be on the left when the poles are facing yourself. I haven't come across a car battery thats the same size as the Bosch S3 003 that I have now but have more than 400CCA)
Wider ones don't fit the plateau which holds the battery. And my connectors for the battery can't reach taller than the 190mm batteries.
If it's not theory 3 but either 1 or 2 then please give me some tips/advice about further actions I could take. Maybe a secondary battery or something I don't know.
Could anyone help me with this problem?
If you need more information I'm more then happy to give it.
There are some voltage stabilizers available on Aliexpress, you may benefit from one of those.
embalu said:
There are some voltage stabilizers available on Aliexpress, you may benefit from one of those.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What exactly does a voltage stabilizer do? And are they difficult to install?
Hi peeps,
I have an annoying issue on my Witson MX2 PX5 device, running the latest Hal9k ROM. When the outside temperatures go below 10°C, the unit always does a full boot in the morning. Over the day it is usually ok, but when the car is parked over night this happens. If I par the car inside the garage that has a slightly higher temperature the unit stays in sleep mode and wakes up very quickly.
Since everything else is working fine I can only assume that it has something to do with the voltage regulator of the radio.
Any other ideas?
Thanks!
Sebastian
It's not the voltage regulator of your radio. It is a weak battery. It's voltage drops too low in a cold night.
That was my first thought too. But the battery is at a steady 12V and it also happened with another one before. Also this behaviour occurs before starting the engine. It's like the radio has been disconnected from the battery over night.
i have the same Problem...but with PX6...
So I did some tests in my car. I plugged in a battery charger over night. And guess what, same behaviour. The voltage was at 13.4V and the charger can buffer a current of 10A. So it is not the battery. I guess it is either the voltage supply of the radio or a problem with either the RAM and/or the PX5/6 PCB when it is getting cold. It is reproduceable as soon as the temps drop below 6°C.
Suggest bench testing the unit with a can of freeze spray. Start with a section and then individual components.
At the moment I don't have freeze spray and I doubt that I will be able to track this issue down. I found another quite interesting thing. The full boot also occurs, if I let the radio fully boot up and then shut it down again. Since this happens reproducible I kinda got the feeling that this is not a defective hardware as such. Perhaps it is down to differences in the runtime caused by the lower temperatures. I am currently running on the MCU Version MTCE_MX_V3.45. Perhaps this also has an impact.
Can somebody explain to me how the sleep mode is programmed? How does it determine when to end it when you're in auto-sleep?
I made an interesting observation. At 7°C the sleep mode works, at 6°C it does a full boot. Since the PX5 chip features temperature sensors, I think that the firmware itself cancels the auto-sleep and shuts down the unit fully. Apparently the sensors have a 5K tolerance, so the range may vary from 0°C to 10°C, or of mine is on the upper tolerance, from -5°C to +5°C. Give or take.
If you have this issue, can you please check the temperature range in your case?
I recently installed an Android head unit type YT9216CJ and figured it sucks around 500mA of current constantly. So it only took 3 days for my car battery to run flat. It seems high standby battery drain is quite common amongst Android head units. Don´r really get why as my Android phone and tablet only use around 20mA or less in standby. I assume the Android head units don´t shut down the power amp and other units while in stand-by.
So my question is:
- Is there any way to reduce standby drain to reasonable levels - without having the head unit to shut down completely after ACC off?
- Are there Android head units that have decent standby drain and wonßt such the battery dry within days?
Thanks
Either headunit has been incorrectly installed (such as swapping b+ and ACC) or the unit is defective.
TruePlaya1977 said:
I recently installed an Android head unit type YT9216CJ and figured it sucks around 500mA of current constantly. So it only took 3 days for my car battery to run flat. It seems high standby battery drain is quite common amongst Android head units. Don´r really get why as my Android phone and tablet only use around 20mA or less in standby. I assume the Android head units don´t shut down the power amp and other units while in stand-by.
So my question is:
- Is there any way to reduce standby drain to reasonable levels - without having the head unit to shut down completely after ACC off?
- Are there Android head units that have decent standby drain and wonßt such the battery dry within days?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, if you are able to measure the current, you also should be able to measure the power on clamp 15 and clamp 30 of your unit.
If you have a look at your installation guide, you should see the battery plus and the ACC.
Your measurement shows clearly that you need to swap the yellow and the red wire on your connection.
In deep sleep, the unit should not take more than around 12-15mA. A really good one just takes 7mA. It clearly shows, that your unit get rid of the battery plus and keeps Android awake. This is the clear picture I see.
500mA is the Android board without any other stuff. If the PA would not get of, the current would be more than 2A instead of 500mA.
So check the connection in the installation guide and measure the pins with and without ACC.
rigattoni said:
Well, if you are able to measure the current, you also should be able to measure the power on clamp 15 and clamp 30 of your unit.
If you have a look at your installation guide, you should see the battery plus and the ACC.
Your measurement shows clearly that you need to swap the yellow and the red wire on your connection.
In deep sleep, the unit should not take more than around 12-15mA. A really good one just takes 7mA. It clearly shows, that your unit get rid of the battery plus and keeps Android awake. This is the clear picture I see.
500mA is the Android board without any other stuff. If the PA would not get of, the current would be more than 2A instead of 500mA.
So check the connection in the installation guide and measure the pins with and without ACC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am using the vendor provided harness for my Ford Focus MK2. ACC an BAT+ are correctly wired. I can simulate ACC and BAT+ with my bench supply and I get the same picture. display and music turns off after ACC loss but power draw ist constantly around 500mA. I rather think that either sleep mode is implemented sloppy or some system components are not put to standby at all.
A quick google reveals that a lot of people experience the same problem with their Chinese Android head unts. So I assume this must be a construction flaw. Hence my question are there head units that go into standby correctly? Maybe some name brands?
TruePlaya1977 said:
I am using the vendor provided harness for my Ford Focus MK2. ACC an BAT+ are correctly wired. I can simulate ACC and BAT+ with my bench supply and I get the same picture. display and music turns off after ACC loss but power draw ist constantly around 500mA. I rather think that either sleep mode is implemented sloppy or some system components are not put to standby at all.
A quick google reveals that a lot of people experience the same problem with their Chinese Android head unts. So I assume this must be a construction flaw. Hence my question are there head units that go into standby correctly? Maybe some name brands?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So even on bench testing, without connected external Amp and other stuff, shows up with 500mA in standby?
It takes about 1min to reach deep sleep, but I guess you waited that long for sleep mode.
500mA should be the exact consumption the Android system would take without screen, just in operating mode. Screen, music and all this stuff is NOT controlled by Android, it´s controlled by the system-board.
I just think that the screen backlight is switched off, so you just think it´s off. Check that.
Check the CAN settings.
I just know installations which are not done correctly, so Clamp 15 and 30 wrong, or CAN settings incorrect. I never heard of any unit which had a hardware issue which leads to this high current.
There are a lot of different supplier who sell better units.
Joying as example and the derivatives. --> https://forum.xda-developers.com/f/fyt-android-head-units.12445/
rigattoni said:
So even on bench testing, without connected external Amp and other stuff, shows up with 500mA in standby?
It takes about 1min to reach deep sleep, but I guess you waited that long for sleep mode.
500mA should be the exact consumption the Android system would take without screen, just in operating mode. Screen, music and all this stuff is NOT controlled by Android, it´s controlled by the system-board.
I just think that the screen backlight is switched off, so you just think it´s off. Check that.
Check the CAN settings.
I just know installations which are not done correctly, so Clamp 15 and 30 wrong, or CAN settings incorrect. I never heard of any unit which had a hardware issue which leads to this high current.
There are a lot of different supplier who sell better units.
Joying as example and the derivatives. --> https://forum.xda-developers.com/f/fyt-android-head-units.12445/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes exactly, just the unit on its own with GPS-antenna connected. I´ve waited for half an hour and still around 500mA draw. No CAN bus adapter on my unit. It´s a real pity as I do like the unit generally. But no use if battery gets depleted within 3 days.
I am wondering if anybody else took standby drain measuements on their units. And what the findings are.
TruePlaya1977 said:
Yes exactly, just the unit on its own with GPS-antenna connected. I´ve waited for half an hour and still around 500mA draw. No CAN bus adapter on my unit. It´s a real pity as I do like the unit generally. But no use if battery gets depleted within 3 days.
I am wondering if anybody else took standby drain measuements on their units. And what the findings are.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can say for myself, as I measure all new head units before they get installed in the car.
...and even one is always connected to my power supply which shows the numbers in mA.
That badest one was a PX5 from 2018/19, don´t remember exactly, but this one took about 26mA in sleep mode.
The PX6 which I am using now eat up 4mA in deep sleep. That I am not using a Joying is just model-related, as they don´t provide the screen-movement like I wanted to have.
Checked that with my oscilloscope.
TruePlaya1977 said:
So my question is:
- Is there any way to reduce standby drain to reasonable levels - without having the head unit to shut down completely after ACC off?
- Are there Android head units that have decent standby drain and wonßt such the battery dry within days?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
have you see this?
dedalos91 said:
have you see this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I have. My unit did not come with a CAN bus adapter as my steering controls are old fashion resistive type.
rigattoni said:
I can say for myself, as I measure all new head units before they get installed in the car.
...and even one is always connected to my power supply which shows the numbers in mA.
That badest one was a PX5 from 2018/19, don´t remember exactly, but this one took about 26mA in sleep mode.
The PX6 which I am using now eat up 4mA in deep sleep. That I am not using a Joying is just model-related, as they don´t provide the screen-movement like I wanted to have.
Checked that with my oscilloscope.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK thanks for the info. Good th know there are units out there with decent standby drain. My unit was quite cheap so I am guessig reason for its low price is that it comes with some issues. Will investigate further on my bench. For now the old stereo went back into the car
what MCU version is in the system? I have a 3-year-old 9218DH and an old MCU 3.1, and the sleeper works fine. Even though the car was parked for a whole week, the unit was put to sleep. After turning the key, it started up in about 1-2 seconds and remembered everything when I stopped the car. It should be updated to MCU 4.0, but there is no time. The truth is that I have canbus connected. Sleep controls the mcu
I´ve found a solution that lets me choose if I want the head unit to go to sleep mode (standby draw around 15mA) or shut down (standby draw around 1mA).
Here is a short description on how to change sleep mode settings in Android Head Unit:
1. Go to Factory Settings in Car settings
2. Enter Password "8888"
3. Select "Engineering Test Debugging"
4. Enter Password "26959910"
5. Select which mode suits best
5.1 User Mode = Only screen goes off after ACC loss, standby power draw is around 500mA
5.2 Direct sleep mode = phone goes to sleep after ACC loss, standby power draw is around 15mA
5.3 Sleep then restart mode = phone goes to sleep after ACC loss (dont know difference to Direct sleep mode), standby power draw is around 15mA
5.4 Direct shutdown mode = Powers down head unit after ACC loss (will do cold boot after ACC on), standby power draw is around 1mA
6. Press OK and leave factory settings
This did it for me.